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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 260

post #2591 of 18696
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimir View Post

Hi owners, anyone here have an idea of when the white version will be available (in europe), my e-tailer have it in pre-order expected february 25th, this case really interest me for my next build.
All the rad space... rolleyes.gif
My intuition is telling me more like early to mid March. There are several case options about to be released including black with white interior, black with red interior and black with orange interior... Plus their new Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro... and PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub, new 200mm and 120mm fans... all of which are keeping them very busy. biggrin.gif
post #2592 of 18696
Quote:
Originally Posted by [SPOILER=Warning: Spoiler!]JackNaylorPE View Post


N Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
o, it is scientifically impossible for any lesser metal to corrode a more noble metal. There has never been a documented issue with an Type 3 anodized aluminum water block....ever.
I'd expect the same with the "faux anodizing process" used. Never had any but remember the discussions.... As I recall, they were not Type 3 anodized, nor were they salt spray tested per ASTM / ISO standards. I'm about 3 months away from a teardown .... wanna check blocks for any more paint flakes from fittings. Then we can compare notes between ya bro's build .

I have over 25 years experience with anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments .... not distilled water w/ corrosion inhibitors, not engineered coolants...... talking school bus sized engine parts, wastewater treatment plants, shoreline facilities, etc with just one failure.....the instance would be akin to using a socket wrench to install the fitting into the black and cracking the block and deforming plate surrounding it.
The science is there and that's the way manufacturers are going .... Gigabyte is now doing the same on the Sniper........and MSI has one rumored. Odd tho that no one has concerns about brass and copper in the rads (See martins pics in his galvanic corrosion article).

I can't even remember a MIVF .... did it have an aluminum block and if it did, wouldn't a IV series be like 3 years old ?

I tried to contact Kier whose build is 10 months old and see if he's seen any signs of corrosion ... if he hasn't taken it down or disposed of already, that would be 50% longer than your brother usage.
If ya haven't bought yet, I was looking at the 1200i but found the X-1250 from Seasonic more to my liking, and was pleasantly surprised that it was $100 cheaper at the time. Both are fine PSUs.
Well if they don't have em by March, ya wanna trade smile.gif
I drained mine.... was kinda easy.... just opened up the two rad port extensions on top and connected a QD.... took maybe 20 secs to drain .....for the last 3-4 ounces, I did a "back tilt" to drain the top rad a forward tilt with a side tilt to drain the GPU blocks and bottom rad.


Id think a barb fitting a 12" tube and a deep breath wud clear it smile.gif
Been there, done that so word of advice. I tested the drill pump before using it and found little mushy pieces of stuff floating in the discharge bucket ..... opened it up and found a marble sized wad of grease on the out port that the discharge had tunneled thru. So if ya reusing ya fluid, ya sure don't want lil globules of that grease floating around in there. I took it apart and wiped it down thoroughly .....

it's also good for back flushing ya blocks .... I connected a spare piece of flex tube and screwed a fitting into the out port on CPU and blew out 3 or 4 paint flakes that must have been scraped off fittings or rads during assembly - disassembly - reassembly
.
[/SPOILER]

Thks mate. You did reply on the other thread (the general Water cooling thread) but I was away from the forum for several days and did n´t reply to you properly there. Now I understood what you meant about the drill pump. It is cheap and sounds like a viable solution both to drain the loop and to try to flush out that bugger 1 cm painting I never found in my system. During the past 3 days I was doing metal work on the case (specially on the reservoir plate to fit 2 VGAs in it) and painting back in black. Will be assembling again soon.
post #2593 of 18696
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

My intuition is telling me more like early to mid March. There are several case options about to be released including black with white interior, black with red interior and black with orange interior... Plus their new Enthoo Luxe and Enthoo Pro... and PWM controlled 3-pin fan hub, new 200mm and 120mm fans... all of which are keeping them very busy. biggrin.gif
Okey, thanks for the heads- up. I'm not in any hurry but it's good to know.
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CaseLabs Panda
(29 items)
 
Bench table
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Fractal White
(17 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5960X Rampage V Extreme KFA² GTX 980Ti HOF Watercooled Kingston HyperX HX426C13PB2K4/16 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C14Q-32GTZ Kingston v300 Intel SSD 535 EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
EK-Coostream XE 360 EK-Vardar F4-120ER EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump) Win10 / Win 8.1 / Win 7 / Linux Mint 
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post #2594 of 18696
Man, I really want a flow indicator. Thinking of putting it on the reservoir bracket, one with an LED like the Primochill ones. Thoughts? The Bitspower looks ok, but really wanted one with an LED of sorts. Koolance is the ideal one, but I don't have the money.
post #2595 of 18696
Hi Folks

have this laying around:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17829/fan-1170/Prolimatech_Ultra_Sleek_Vortex_140mm_x_15mm_Slim_Profile_PWM_Fan_-_120mm_Mounting_Pattern.html?tl=c365s1862b165&id=NkVU2uH8&mv_pc=844

and was thinking about putting to good use on the back of the case blowing in the back of the cpu+vrm on my RIVE MB. Any suggestions of how to mount it there? Was planning on using those akust supports :

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16145/slf-11/Akust_Adjustable_Magnetic_Fan_Bridge_Mounting_Kit_BK00-0107-AKS.html?tl=g47c121s262&id=NkVU2uH8&mv_pc=1303

but the small L leg is too large to fit on the back of the case...
post #2596 of 18696
Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

Man, I really want a flow indicator. Thinking of putting it on the reservoir bracket, one with an LED like the Primochill ones. Thoughts? The Bitspower looks ok, but really wanted one with an LED of sorts. Koolance is the ideal one, but I don't have the money.

Save up in that case, go for something that you really want, compared to get something for temp use, and then ending up throwing it away.
post #2597 of 18696
Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

Man, I really want a flow indicator. Thinking of putting it on the reservoir bracket, one with an LED like the Primochill ones. Thoughts? The Bitspower looks ok, but really wanted one with an LED of sorts. Koolance is the ideal one, but I don't have the money.

Funny you should mention it. Not exactly what you're talking about I don't suppose, but my Koolance flow meter and adapter just arrived today...

Koolance Flow Meter FM19 and FM03 adapter

I didn't get one with a visual flow indicator or led because it will be hooked up out of view, but really wanted the Koolance one with the adapter so I could get accurate (or somewhere close to it) LPH/GPH readings on my Lamptron CW611.

Now I'm impatiently waiting for my XSPC RIVBE block set to arrive tomorrow, even though I'll be working 13+ hr days through Sunday so won't really have much if any time to start finishing this thing up until early next week sometime.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/22/14 at 3:30pm
post #2598 of 18696
Hi guys,

Anyone here have experience with the clickly things breaking?
The front filter part won't close. The 2 clicktly things might be broken.
Is there any way of getting new ones? or is there a way to fix them? (they seem to be using springs)
post #2599 of 18696
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

The pond pump doesn't have an 'in' line. Just an 'out'. It needs to sit submersed in the 'in' fluid source, so it's 'not' going to work for hooking up to a drain line

Actually, some aquarium/pond pumps can be used externally and have inlets. Some can only be used submerged. Others can be used as both and have the ability to swap some kind of pipe or hose fitting for an intake strainer.
post #2600 of 18696
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalyan View Post

Hi guys,

Anyone here have experience with the clickly things breaking?
The front filter part won't close. The 2 clicktly things might be broken.
Is there any way of getting new ones? or is there a way to fix them? (they seem to be using springs)

One of mine in the front is broken too, this was discussed with jack, unicron and me a coupple of pages back, to fix this youll have to shoot phanteks an email and theyll send you some spare parts thumb.gif and to prevent future breaks, be sure to take off the front filter before you take of the fornt cover since these breaks quite easily rolleyes.gif

They should include some clamps in the accessory box though, as i with many others, i think, expect things to not break when its all new, especially those kind of parts
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evolv
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ek supremacy evo ek GTX 1080 full cover block  EK vardar F1 windows 10 pro 
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