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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 304

post #3031 of 18708
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post


If I do another I will use 280 + 420 in white .... I didn't do any bending ..... My firm designs wastewater treatment plants and having this thing sitting on my desk, when clients come in, I wanted it to be a representation of what my firm does. So I was going for an "industrial plant" look with the fittings much as we see in the plants we build. I have taken it apart twice already to "fix" things where a tube was off vertical or horizontal by a mm or half of one and with the new position of the case on my desk, looking from another angle, I found another tube that "offends my sensibilities" smile.gif .... so will be fixing that one when I take it down for 1 year maintenance and inspection....prolly gotta shave a half mm off and it will be puuuurrrfect.

From a build standpoint, that's the main thing to my mind between bent tubing and fittings ..... if you have a multiple bend on a tube that is 1mm off, it can be very hard to fix; straight tubing and fittings is ez.... pull the tube, shave a mm put it back..... only working in a single dimension so anything is easily fixable.

I like both methods aesthetically. Bent builds look a bit more artistic / flashy, but if I had to pick just one, I'd do fittings as I prefer the more sedate look. My son is planning post college graduation build and we are planning on bent acrylic for that one. Ya don't use a blow torch, just a heat gun.....essentially a very robust hair dryer smile.gif. For all you ever wanted to know about acrylic pipe bending, look here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101
I hear ya..... remember the GFX card backplates are black..... CPU block Id recommend clear plexi so ya can see inside. To get an idea of the Formula with white rads / black case, ya can use my pic and use Paint program to block out the rads in white. Again, that's exactly what i was going to do but then it seemed with that much white, it's no longer a contrast or highlight. Id use white rads with a white case and black rads with a black..... if ya have 5 fans in pull with white blades on top of the rads and all that other white in a black case seems "too much".
Exact same block for reference cards ..... of course not always true with those offerings with non-reference PCBs. See EK's description.
As for the XSPC versus EK comparison, I didn't see any ties. The differences in the GPU temps were small with < 2C separating.....but on the VRM and RAM it's huge..

EK VRAM temps is 10.2C, XSPC is 8.6 C (See 17:00 mark) .... that's 1.6C, advantage XSPC
EK VRAM temps is 22C, XSPC is 28C (See 21;50 mark) .... that's 6C, advantage EK
EK VRM temps is 33C, XSPC is 46C (see 23:00 mark) ..... that's 13C, advantage EK
The EVGA SC series is a reference board and is the only card I ever consistently recommend against. The SC series cards are the only factory OC'd cards on the market from the major vendors that uses a "stock" PCB and reference VRM. It does have a half way decent cooler which you are going to promptly remove before installing your WB. So you pay a premium for a cooler .... the only thing on the SC series that is not "stock" ..... so why pay a premium when the only thing you got for paying extra, you are going to put in a box or toss out ? And then you're gimped by a substantially weaker VRM whereas all the competition's same price cards have VRMs are substantially beefier.

Delta T's represent the delta or change in temperature between two things you are interested in. For example the system delta T is the difference between the ambient air and the coolant.... it is in effect the single relevant performance criteria as yo how well your rads are doing their job. Block Delta T is the temp difference between the CPU or GPU and the temp of the coolant.

As for the fans, performance is gimped by any resistance placed in its way .... the grille above your fans provide air resistance / friction so that reduces air flow.... air filters provide air resistance / friction so that reduces air flow. So if the performance of your fans is reduced by things that inhibit its performance, the performance of your radiators are similarly influenced. The filters, grilles and limited air flow area on the bottom ..... these all work to reduce performance by about 33%.
Again, I strongly advise against the SC line... The EVGA Classified, great card .... EVGA SC ? again, why pay extra for a stock / reference design with a decent air cooler that you are going to remove.

http://uk.hardware.info/reviews/4639/10/nvidia-geforce-gtx-780-asus-vs-evga-vs-inno3d-vs-msi-conclusion
I'd rank the factory overclocked 780 cards from the "Big 4" as follows Asus DCII, MSI N gaming Series, Gigabyte Windforce and EVGA SC last. The specialty cards .... EVGA Classified and MSI Lightning are the premium cards but won't fit in the Enthoo.

As for the fit .... a 60mm diameter res (i.e. EK Res-3) mounted on the Enthoo res bracket in pre-drilled holes, as I recall, leaves about 2-3mm of space between res and edge of card. In SLI, in MoBos which use the No. 2 and No. 5 slots (i.e. The Maximus VI Formula), the lower card will hit the res bracket if ....

a) The card is more than 10.5" long
b) You use any of the longer EQ water blocks

EK makes 3 "full cover" water blocks

-Acetal one is 10.5" long
-Plexi one with the circles on it is 10.5" long
-"Clean" Plexi one (no circles) is about 9.5" long.

The res bracket, after you remove the plastic cover has a cut out..... it's thinner in the middle than top and bottom. Where the bracket transitions from the thinner to the wider portion, the water block will hit the bracket. Using my auspicious industry credentials .... smile.gif .... I manged to get a pre-release 780 Ti which was 10.5" long. You can see in the pics below how it hits the bracket





Here's an actual 780 installed. In this pic you can see the PCB extending over the slanted part of the res bracket. If the block ran full length underneath that PCB (it stops about an inch short), installation of the 2nd card would have been impossible with the res bracket in place.


I'll simply say I disagree completely with what you read about the MoBo block. While I might question whether it's worth $100 to replace it with the EK model, to my mind, if it's alreday there and paid for, I can fathom no reason not to take advantage of it.

When I started the build, it was only the 8 pin EPS cable and MPCIE combo card access that concerned me .... see ModZoo review also on this topic ..... but there were other things I didn't think of immediately that later caused concern. In summary:

1. The 60mm rad in P/P will block access to the MPCIE combo card. If you install it and never need access, no problem.... but if you do, will have to remove at least the fans.

2. The 60mm rad in P/P will block access to the 8 pin EPS cable....If you have pre-sleeved your cable and never need to access it, no problem.... but if you wanna get it built and then come back later w/ a sleeved cable, again, at least fans gotta go.

3. The 60mm rad in P/P will make getting the MoBo block tube in a bit more difficult. As far as not using it, the same argument can be used for your GFX card waterblocks..... kinda pointless when ya OCs are controlled by voltage and not temperatures. With a custom VRM as ya get with the Asus, Gigabyte and MSI factory OCd cards, you can and will get similar performance with air cooling (I have). When you selected ya GFX card block, you picked one that covers the GFX card VRM no ?

I have seen this argument made, most by people speculating what would happen "if" they connected the block and "if" they even had the MoBo. And it does help temperatures very much....right now mine's at 24C .... the three VRMs are at 22, 25 and 27C. Under stress testing, they climb into the low 30s. If you actually look at the water block cross section you can see quite clearly that the flow path is about the same area as an equivalent section of tubing.....no significant restriction whatsoever....I have about 1.75 gpm running thru my loop under normal operation....2.25 if I kick pump up to full speed. The only thing I don't see worthwhile cooling is DDR3-RAM, and that's cause I don't bother trying to go over rated speeds.....or push DRAM voltage up to 1.9 / 2.0 levels.

4. The 60mm rad in P/P completely blocks access to the voltage monitoring points.

5. The 60mm rad in P/P will block view if the MemOK LED, thereby eliminating a useful diagnostic tool.

6. The 60mm rad in P/P will block the view of the diagnostic LCD display, again eliminating use of a critically important diagnostic tool.

7. The 60mm rad in P/P will, if ya gonna use a 250mm res and want to be able to bleed it with a valve on the multiport top, the BP valve will hit the fan.

8. The 60mm rad in P/P will eliminate use of the top 5.25 bay which w/ a 45mm rad allows ya to fit a fan controller in there.


The 1st four I could live with if I didn't know I would shortly need access to those areas for planned mods not far down the road. The other four were deal killers as giving these up brought me nothing in return..... In other words, such a consideration should depend on what ya get versus what ya giving up.... I mean if I bend at the waist across the desk and lay my head sideways at desk level I could still see the diagnostic LCD but is that effort worth it for what I get in return ? I certainly might have considered a 60mm rad if it gave me something.

But I normally run at 450 rpm .... 850 rpm under stress testing and, in this rpm range, thinner rads actually outperform thicker rads. At 850 rpm, the UT60 and XT45 produce the exact same amount of cooling (156 watts each for the 360 based upon Martins published test data (projected 212 watts each for the 420). In fact, it's only at 1,000 rpm and above that the ST30 (181 watts ) loses its performance advantage over the XT45 (181 watts) and UT60 (183 watts).
Sound is great....it's the equivalent of the $90 Xonar DX

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132006
It's good to know the sound is good. Also, before I forget to ask, what are those round red things that are attached to the gpu pipes? I have never seen those before! They look cool though. Now, speaking of tubing, let's start there. I think I am going to do what you did in your build. Have straight pieces with use of corner pieces and such. Because I know nothing about acrylic tubing, and have yet to read that article you posted, I won't go crazy with questions until later.
I guess I will start with the graphics cards and work my way into reservoir questions. First, thank you for bringing that Asus card to my attention. It does seem to be the better buy (although that EVGA SC is the cheapest on PCPP). I don't know if I have mentioned this before, but I was originally going to go with 780ti SLI, but the extra 400+ and 5-15 frame difference wasn't worth it, to me. Most people agree that the Classified 780 is the best. But, I don't know if:
1. It two of them would fit WITH a res beside them.
2. If the Asus is a better buy.
3. Other stuff.
Mainly, what card should I get? I was planning on getting one of them to start, and in a while (maybe a couple months, basically when I buy a 1440p monitor) buy another one. Now I am kinda thinking about going ahead and getting them at the same time, especially if I am gonna be doing the more "difficult" and intricate tubing. Along with that, what water block should I get for it? I've done research in the past and people basically say get whatever looks best to you. But you won't ever really see it to be honest. Although looks are important, performance and compatibility are more of a concern. I can't tell what water blocks you are using, but they look good. Very good actually. Like that clear piece that surrounds it looks premium, and the SLI bridge doesn't look stupid. The SLI bridge on the XSPC one does, and that blue light is just a gimmick. I'm not a HUGE fan of LEDs, even though I have a Logitech G600 and want the new individually back lit Corsair keyboard. I honestly hate LEDs when I am watching stuff, and even on my mouse I turn the lights off unless I am playing a game. And if I wanted lights it wouldn't be hard to install them. Anyway, I feel the EK is probably better. I gotta ask though, why did you route your tubing the way you did? Most builds I have seen, people put a tube or a connector in between the cards.
Like this:

Or this:

One part of me likes this look a lot, then another likes what you did a lot. I think the above picture has a nice, clean look though. But I imagine cooling performance is probably limited, mostly because it looks like that kind of SLI bridge is more restricting. Although, it may be better for cooling, and easier with less tubing. Another question.. how in the hell is that thing mounted?? Also, I think I spy a EK GPU block, and it looks gooood. Oh, I just noticed that reservoir.. Hmm.. It actually looks pretty good, if a little crowded. Is your mounting options better there then it is beside the graphics cards?
Just thinking out of the blue here, but I imagine the acrylic tubing is "safer". With the "flex" tubing one of the precautions most people take is using compression fittings (which is what I was going to do) but with the acrylic it seems all the fittings have a very nice seal and hold on the tubing. Again, I don't know much about acrylic tubing, just throwing my thoughts out there.
So, you feel like most of your components (like rads, tubing and fans) should match your case color? If so, black case and black radiator or white case with white radiator. I was thinking in class today how the black case may be the better option. But looking at water cooling builds, almost EVERYONE is doing black cases, black radiators, and either green/blue/red tubing. This makes me want a white case and white rad combo even more just so I don't have a generic looking rig.
Anyway, I had thought of a clear CPU block, but it would probably be difficult to see inside with all the pipes in the way, and I have heard VERY good things about the Koolance-380I. Also, I haven't been able to find really any forum discussions or articles talking about the Formulas on-board water block. Do you know of any reviews that mention it or have knowledge on it? I don't know much about it. And I totally get what you mean on the top rad now. I will probably do a XT45. Although, I am still confused as why you aren't using P/P? Then for the bottom, probably a UT60. It makes sense down there, to me, because you have so much empty space. Although, it may not from a cooling stand point. I wanted to ask what I should do. You say you use your fans on 450rpm, which sounds absolutely insane. Like, wow. And you manage good temps. That has to be whisper quiet. I would probably go 850rpm, unless the performance didn't show (I don't see how it couldn't though), as I imagine that's very inaudible. So, please explain to me more about rad sizes, especially thinner ones, and what fan speeds to use. I still don't understand the reason for not P/P on the bottom either. It looks pretty cool with the blank rad look, but I am sure with fans it would look cool and probably provide better temps. And while I am asking radiator questions, I gotta ask. How would I go about painting rads? I wouldn't want to get paint in the screw holes or the fins, let alone the ports. Or get paint in areas I wouldn't want it. I mean, blue painters tape MAY work well, but I'm not convinced. And would I use spray paint? My neighbor has a paint gun that sprays paint so do note that. I won't be sitting in my basement spraying drips all over them or anything lol. And will I have to worry about it fading? Oh, and I will probably go 420/420 on both the bottom and top.
Now, hopefully I'm not repeating myself a bunch. I started typing this when I got home from school, then got a hair cut, then family came over.. And I really don't have enough time to reread all of my post ot make sure I'm not repeating because more family is coming very soon. What I wanted to ask about was reservoirs though. Which do you recommend? You managed to do SLI 780's with a res beside them. I like that look a lot, but if it isn't possible in certain configurations or it's simply better "above" the GPUs then that's fine. I just need to figure that out, as it controls my loop routing and what size GPU blocks I use. Also, you mentioned a few EK res'. Can you link me to them? I couldn't find them in the time I had to look, and the ones I did find were nothing like yours or were very different. And I don't like the look of that Primochill one I listed.
A few more 780 things. First, the Asus 780 has two different fans? Lol. I found that odd. Second, while looking around for more about that Asus 780, I stumbled upon the ROG Poseidon. I had completely forgot about that thing! I read a quick review on it, and to be honest, the frames weren't much better than a regular 780. BUT, it doesn't come pre-OCed. I do have to say I LOVEEEE the design. It looks so sleek and sexy. Plus, what a brilliant design!! The temps I seen were very good, and the fans are apparently veryy quiet. BUTTT, I can't find ANYTHING about it! Like, where do you buy the damn thing?? No forum posts about release dates, no news on it. Only reviews, but no where to buy it. I am very confused on that thing.
Also, have you thought about delidding your 4770k? I have read on it some, and it is suppose to drop temps by as much as 10 degrees celsius. Also making over clocking easier and better. Lot's of good things about it. Except it voids warranty and is dangerous to perform. But, I wanted to know your take.
By the way, when I seen that picture of the cardboard TI, I bursted out in laughter. Great stuff man.
Final question. What tubing and angles are you using?
That's all I can remember that I wanted to ask. This post was probably a bit messy and long. I'm sorry for that. But, as always, thanks for your great help! biggrin.gif
post #3032 of 18708
Someone should make a rig based on this card. So amazing.
http://uk.hardware.info/productinfo/187049/inno3d-geforce-gtx-780-ichill-herculez-x3-ultra-3gb#tab:photos


Or this one..
7https://www.google.com/search?q=hall+of+fame+780&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=tBIEU-u6OILb0wH7uoHAAw&ved=0CAsQ_AUoAw&biw=1920&bih=936
Edited by Fumferknuckle - 2/18/14 at 6:11pm
post #3033 of 18708
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared485 View Post

SO i have the fans in my case hooked up to the fan controller, but i can tell my motherboard isnt putting off enough wattage to control them. half are barely spinning and at times they almost stop and are very inconsistent. So i went to plug a molex into it and holy ****, sparks and smoke went up... i disconnected my molex and the controller still works ike ****,, and my rooms smells. but what the hell did i do wrong???



at the risk of sounding like a jerk, molex connectors only go one way, there are one or two molex connectors that have tags on them and are specific use, the header from the mobo is 4 pin? PMW? Got pix? there can only be speculation as to what occurred. I would like to think with some investigating on your part you may find a burnt wire/s or a bad fan, and or something evident on the motherboard. which will lead you to what has occurred.
Edited by simsim44 - 2/18/14 at 6:21pm
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post #3034 of 18708
Quote:
Originally Posted by simsim44 View Post

at the risk of sounding like a jerk, molex connectors only go one way, there are one or two molex connectors that have tags on them and are specific use, the header from the mobo is 4 pin? PMW? Got pix? there can only be speculation as to what occurred. I would like to think with some investigating on your part you may find a burnt wire/s or a bad fan, and or something evident on the motherboard. which will lead you to what has occurred.

I know i put the molex on the way it goes, like you said they only go on one way. All the fans appear to be running and i found no burnt wires.. IM wondering if i just burnt out the molex connector. I havent yet tried to connect them again.. IM just wondering why this might have occured in the first place. I smoked and crackled pretty good for a couple seconds. but with no apparent damage... Also the motherboard has no signs of damage.

I have the case fan hub connected the the CPU 4 pin PWM fan connector on the motherboard. w/ no damage.

Should i just write it off as a close one or look until i find a problem...
post #3035 of 18708
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared485 View Post

I know i put the molex on the way it goes, like you said they only go on one way. All the fans appear to be running and i found no burnt wires.. IM wondering if i just burnt out the molex connector. I havent yet tried to connect them again.. IM just wondering why this might have occured in the first place. I smoked and crackled pretty good for a couple seconds. but with no apparent damage... Also the motherboard has no signs of damage.

I have the case fan hub connected the the CPU 4 pin PWM fan connector on the motherboard. w/ no damage.

Should i just write it off as a close one or look until i find a problem...

Do you have another fan you can plug into the molex that cooked to see if there is a concern at the PSU? if that's fine and there is no evidence to a problem then I would just keep it in mind,
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post #3036 of 18708
Quote:
Originally Posted by simsim44 View Post

Do you have another fan you can plug into the molex that cooked to see if there is a concern at the PSU? if that's fine and there is no evidence to a problem then I would just keep it in mind,

I dont have a spare fan but my friend does, ill have to ask him to borrow it tomorrow and try that. Ill let you know wht happens.. if anything. Thank you!
post #3037 of 18708
No worries
Hells Fear
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Samsung 22X DVDRW Sata  Samsung Blu-Ray Combo 12X SH-B123L/BSBP Corsair H80 Windows Home prem 7-64 
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AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB Vertex 4 256g  Vertex 4 512g  
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OCZ Vector Series VTR1-252AT3-512G  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  SAMSUNG Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM... 
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XSPC Raystorm AX240 Extreme Universal CPU Water... looking at heat killers for gpu's #16026 need X2 XSPC EX360 Triple 120mm Low Profile Split Fin R...  EK-D5-VARIO-XTOP-PL-W/PUMP (2nd pump) 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
2 Liters of FESER1-PURE-BL  Win 7 Pro 64 ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... 
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ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000  CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX1200   Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo  
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AMD FX-6100 Asus M5A99X-EVO HiS IceQ.X 6790 HiS IceQ.X 6790 
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Samsung 22X DVDRW Sata  Samsung Blu-Ray Combo 12X SH-B123L/BSBP Corsair H80 Windows Home prem 7-64 
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HannSpree SL231 23" HannSpree SL231 23" Microsoft Ergonomic 4000 Corsair HX 1000 
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FX 9590,  ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA ... SAPPHIRE 100363VXSR Radeon R9 280X 3GB 384-Bit ... SAPPHIRE 100363VXSR Radeon R9 280X 3GB 384-Bit ... 
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AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB Vertex 4 256g  Vertex 4 512g  
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OCZ Vector Series VTR1-252AT3-512G  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  SAMSUNG Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Raystorm AX240 Extreme Universal CPU Water... looking at heat killers for gpu's #16026 need X2 XSPC EX360 Triple 120mm Low Profile Split Fin R...  EK-D5-VARIO-XTOP-PL-W/PUMP (2nd pump) 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
2 Liters of FESER1-PURE-BL  Win 7 Pro 64 ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... 
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post #3038 of 18708
Hey yall. I just wanted to take a second to say thank you. This thread was very helpful during my recent build. Here is what you helped build =)

If you are interested, I posted a slide show of the build on my cheesy website: www.atxpwns.com

post #3039 of 18708
we love pix....well I like them....
Hells Fear
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Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB Desktop Module Kit - D... Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB Desktop Module Kit - D... OCZ Vertex 3  WD Blue  
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 22X DVDRW Sata  Samsung Blu-Ray Combo 12X SH-B123L/BSBP Corsair H80 Windows Home prem 7-64 
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HannSpree SL231 23" HannSpree SL231 23" Microsoft Ergonomic 4000 Corsair HX 1000 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Tt Chaser MK-1 Full Tower Logitech G500 S&S Steel On board to Logitech's X530 
Other
Corsair Ram Cooler 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
FX 9590,  ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA ... SAPPHIRE 100363VXSR Radeon R9 280X 3GB 384-Bit ... SAPPHIRE 100363VXSR Radeon R9 280X 3GB 384-Bit ... 
RAMRAMHard DriveHard Drive
AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB Vertex 4 256g  Vertex 4 512g  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
OCZ Vector Series VTR1-252AT3-512G  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  SAMSUNG Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Raystorm AX240 Extreme Universal CPU Water... looking at heat killers for gpu's #16026 need X2 XSPC EX360 Triple 120mm Low Profile Split Fin R...  EK-D5-VARIO-XTOP-PL-W/PUMP (2nd pump) 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
2 Liters of FESER1-PURE-BL  Win 7 Pro 64 ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... 
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ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000  CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX1200   Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo  
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AMD FX-6100 Asus M5A99X-EVO HiS IceQ.X 6790 HiS IceQ.X 6790 
RAMRAMHard DriveHard Drive
Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB Desktop Module Kit - D... Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB Desktop Module Kit - D... OCZ Vertex 3  WD Blue  
Optical DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Samsung 22X DVDRW Sata  Samsung Blu-Ray Combo 12X SH-B123L/BSBP Corsair H80 Windows Home prem 7-64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
HannSpree SL231 23" HannSpree SL231 23" Microsoft Ergonomic 4000 Corsair HX 1000 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Tt Chaser MK-1 Full Tower Logitech G500 S&S Steel On board to Logitech's X530 
Other
Corsair Ram Cooler 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
FX 9590,  ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA ... SAPPHIRE 100363VXSR Radeon R9 280X 3GB 384-Bit ... SAPPHIRE 100363VXSR Radeon R9 280X 3GB 384-Bit ... 
RAMRAMHard DriveHard Drive
AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB AMD Radeon™ RP1866 Performance Series 16GB Vertex 4 256g  Vertex 4 512g  
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
OCZ Vector Series VTR1-252AT3-512G  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB blue  SAMSUNG Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Raystorm AX240 Extreme Universal CPU Water... looking at heat killers for gpu's #16026 need X2 XSPC EX360 Triple 120mm Low Profile Split Fin R...  EK-D5-VARIO-XTOP-PL-W/PUMP (2nd pump) 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
2 Liters of FESER1-PURE-BL  Win 7 Pro 64 ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... 
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ASUS VS Series VS238H-P Black 23" 2ms HDMI LED ... Natural Ergonomic Keyboard 4000  CORSAIR Professional Series Gold AX1200   Phanteks Enthoo Series Primo  
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post #3040 of 18708
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared485 View Post

SO i have the fans in my case hooked up to the fan controller, but i can tell my motherboard isnt putting off enough wattage to control them. half are barely spinning and at times they almost stop and are very inconsistent. So i went to plug a molex into it and holy ****, sparks and smoke went up... i disconnected my molex and the controller still works ike ****,, and my rooms smells. but what the hell did i do wrong???

MoBo headers on enthusiasts level boards are typical rated for one amp or 12 watts ... some hi end boards are rated for two amps. The Phanteks fans are 0.14 amp and 1.8 watts input IIRC.

Not sure what went wrong, only result when I did it was the fans went to 100% speed as I had them fed from a MoBo (CHA_1) header rather than a CPU PWM header. best call Phanteks and ask.

Not sure about the "not enuff wattage to control them" statement tho.....if they are spinning, the MoBo is doing its job, hopefully ya don't have too many on there and won't blow the header. FanXpert2 should test the fans and once done you should be able to set up the appropriate profiles.
911 Carrera
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911 Carrera
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2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
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1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
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