Originally Posted by Fumferknuckle
It's good to know the sound is good. Also, before I forget to ask, what are those round red things that are attached to the gpu pipes? I have never seen those before! They look cool though. Now, speaking of tubing, let's start there. I think I am going to do what you did in your build. Have straight pieces with use of corner pieces and such. Because I know nothing about acrylic tubing, and have yet to read that article you posted, I won't go crazy with questions until later.
I guess I will start with the graphics cards and work my way into reservoir questions. First, thank you for bringing that Asus card to my attention. It does seem to be the better buy (although that EVGA SC is the cheapest on PCPP). I don't know if I have mentioned this before, but I was originally going to go with 780ti SLI, but the extra 400+ and 5-15 frame difference wasn't worth it, to me. Most people agree that the Classified 780 is the best. But, I don't know if:
1. It two of them would fit WITH a res beside them.
2. If the Asus is a better buy.
3. Other stuff.
Started to answer you last week but had an emergency call out and son shut down puter on me while I was gone ....so picking up where I left off.
A. The round thingies are flow meters
B. The MSI Lightning and Classified allow over volting and have additional features not on factory overclocked cards. The SC should be cheaper as they don't have to use a custom PCB or more expensive VRM.....on newegg the usually the same tho .... both MSI and Asus are $500, EVGA is $510 after rebate.
1. Yes, twin Asus 780s fit with the EK res on the bracket using one of the three available EK water blocks..... ya need the "Clean" acrylic one, not the one w/ the EK circles or the black one.
2. See above.... significantly outperforms the EVGA SC in the tests and is cheaper. EVGA Classi and MSI Lightning are different beats and have more features for serious OC'ers willing to risk their cards to their experimentation.
Mainly, what card should I get? I was planning on getting one of them to start, and in a while (maybe a couple months, basically when I buy a 1440p monitor) buy another one. Now I am kinda thinking about going ahead and getting them at the same time, especially if I am gonna be doing the more "difficult" and intricate tubing. Along with that, what water block should I get for it? I've done research in the past and people basically say get whatever looks best to you. But you won't ever really see it to be honest. Although looks are important, performance and compatibility are more of a concern. I can't tell what water blocks you are using, but they look good. Very good actually. Like that clear piece that surrounds it looks premium, and the SLI bridge doesn't look stupid. The SLI bridge on the XSPC one does, and that blue light is just a gimmick. I'm not a HUGE fan of LEDs, even though I have a Logitech G600 and want the new individually back lit Corsair keyboard. I honestly hate LEDs when I am watching stuff, and even on my mouse I turn the lights off unless I am playing a game. And if I wanted lights it wouldn't be hard to install them. Anyway, I feel the EK is probably better. I gotta ask though, why did you route your tubing the way you did? Most builds I have seen, people put a tube or a connector in between the cards.
C. Of I did the Ti's wuda went that route but taking the machine down to rebuild is not something I can afford to have "out of action".
D. The EK water block substantially outperforms everything else on the market for VRAM (6C) and VRM (13C) cooling (23:00 minute mark) tho the XSPC beats it by 1.6C on the GPU ...I posted the link to the video and times where they show the stats a few paged back....some of the VRMs hit 82C (Classifed)
I didn't use an SLI Bridge, I piped each card separately in parallel as I wanted a more open look. When ya see the tubes (aka Crystal Link) between cards, most often that is a series flow pattern where the coolant flows thru 1st one card then the other. They can also be set up in parallel but again, I just don't like the look of the big bridges or the non symmetrical look of the Crystal Link. Parallel allows two advantages.....
-2nd card is not cooled by coolant pre-heated by the 1st card so both run at same temps.
-only half pump flow goes thru GPU blocks (which don't need it) reducing back pressure.
They are the EK Full cover Asus "Clean" block
CPU Water Block - EK Supremacy Universal CPU Liquid Cooling Block - Clean Plexi (EK-Supremacy Clean CSQ) - No Circles 
TIM Gelid Solutions GC-3 Extreme Thermal Compound - 3.5 Grams (TC-GC-03-A)
GPU Water Block - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling Block - Nickel (EK-FC780 GTX DCII – Nickel)
GPU Water Block Backplate - EK ASUS GeForce 780 GTX DCII VGA Liquid Cooling RAM Backplate - Black CSQ (EK-FC780 GTX DCII Backplate - Black)
One part of me likes this look a lot, then another likes what you did a lot. I think the above picture has a nice, clean look though. But I imagine cooling performance is probably limited, mostly because it looks like that kind of SLI bridge is more restricting. Although, it may be better for cooling, and easier with less tubing. Another question.. how in the hell is that thing mounted?? Also, I think I spy a EK GPU block, and it looks gooood. Oh, I just noticed that reservoir.. Hmm.. It actually looks pretty good, if a little crowded. Is your mounting options better there then it is beside the graphics cards?
Just thinking out of the blue here, but I imagine the acrylic tubing is "safer". With the "flex" tubing one of the precautions most people take is using compression fittings (which is what I was going to do) but with the acrylic it seems all the fittings have a very nice seal and hold on the tubing. Again, I don't know much about acrylic tubing, just throwing my thoughts out there.
E. As far as look, I'm OCD about straight lines ..... if I have bends, they'd all have to be concentric and identical radii so flex tubing is a definite no-no for me and bent tubing would be quite a challenge. Not sure what "thing" ya referring to. My res is mounted on the Enthoo Res Bracket using the predrilled holes.....it has about 2-3mm of clearance to the cards / blocks. I have some housekeeping to do, once I sleeve the cables they should be almost invisible.
So, you feel like most of your components (like rads, tubing and fans) should match your case color? If so, black case and black radiator or white case with white radiator. I was thinking in class today how the black case may be the better option. But looking at water cooling builds, almost EVERYONE is doing black cases, black radiators, and either green/blue/red tubing. This makes me want a white case and white rad combo even more just so I don't have a generic looking rig.
F. That's a personal choice.... like briefs versus boxers
..... and what some peeps like, wud make others uncomfy....if ya do a white case, I'd do white rads and white res and let the MoBo be my highlight.
Anyway, I had thought of a clear CPU block, but it would probably be difficult to see inside with all the pipes in the way, and I have heard VERY good things about the Koolance-380I. Also, I haven't been able to find really any forum discussions or articles talking about the Formulas on-board water block. Do you know of any reviews that mention it or have knowledge on it? I don't know much about it. And I totally get what you mean on the top rad now. I will probably do a XT45. Although, I am still confused as why you aren't using P/P? Then for the bottom, probably a UT60. It makes sense down there, to me, because you have so much empty space. Although, it may not from a cooling stand point. I wanted to ask what I should do. You say you use your fans on 450rpm, which sounds absolutely insane. Like, wow. And you manage good temps. That has to be whisper quiet. I would probably go 850rpm, unless the performance didn't show (I don't see how it couldn't though), as I imagine that's very inaudible. So, please explain to me more about rad sizes, especially thinner ones, and what fan speeds to use. I still don't understand the reason for not P/P on the bottom either. It looks pretty cool with the blank rad look, but I am sure with fans it would look cool and probably provide better temps. And while I am asking radiator questions, I gotta ask. How would I go about painting rads? I wouldn't want to get paint in the screw holes or the fins, let alone the ports. Or get paint in areas I wouldn't want it. I mean, blue painters tape MAY work well, but I'm not convinced. And would I use spray paint? My neighbor has a paint gun that sprays paint so do note that. I won't be sitting in my basement spraying drips all over them or anything lol. And will I have to worry about it fading? Oh, and I will probably go 420/420 on both the bottom and top.
G. When ya see a link to a review, it's important to go thru all of it..... sometimes peeps read the 1st paragraph and make an inappropriate conclusion .... what is best depends on what heat signature it has..... what is best on one block, is not the best on another. For Haswell, EK rules, for LGA 2011 Koolance rules.
H. The problem with what you "read on the internet" is too many folks parrot what they have read and either misinterpret or take comments out of context. You will oft see peeps say the the presence of aluminum in a loop will corrode copper blocks .... which is actually a scientific impossibility as copper is a more noble metal. The MoBo block however is anodized aluminum a material I have been working with for decades in highly corrosive environments. I have absolutely no concerns with this block material. I have also seen it posted that "this" block is restrictive from peeps who have never seen it......reading somewhere in the past that a certain block is restrictive, the conclusion is drawn that all MoBo blocks are restrictive which is inappropriate. I'll be doing my 3 month tear down in a few days and will report on block condition. The block's flow path is about the same flow area as a tube.
I. As for the P/P decision
a. I went way over budget so decided to build ion push, and then do pull later
b. I wanted to to some testing 1st with 1 fan before doing P/P
c. My temps in pish are betetr than i expected in P/P already
d. Need a 2nd and 3rd Phanteks PCBs to run all the fans and they don't come out till March
What I wanted to ask about was reservoirs though. Which do you recommend? You managed to do SLI 780's with a res beside them. I like that look a lot, but if it isn't possible in certain configurations or it's simply better "above" the GPUs then that's fine. I just need to figure that out, as it controls my loop routing and what size GPU blocks I use. Also, you mentioned a few EK res'. Can you link me to them? I couldn't find them in the time I had to look, and the ones I did find were nothing like yours or were very different. And I don't like the look of that Primochill one I listed.
J. I thot I mentioned it's the EK res 3-250 .... but all parts are listed in my sig. To me, a big part of the Enthoo was the res bracket ..... not using it was like....I dunno... having DDR3-2400 and running it at 1600......seemed a shame not to use one of the more prominent features of the case.
Reservoir - EK-MultiOption RES X3 250 - Liquid Cooling Reservoir - White Acetal (6 Total Ports) w/ (2) EK Extender Fittings
Reservoir Top - EK X3 Reservoir Multiport Replacement Top - White (EK-RES X3 - Multiport TOP WHITE)
Reservoir Fill Tube Internal Tube 12/16 - 140mm (EK-RES-X3-TUBE-140
EK - Extender Fitting - EK G1/4 Thread Fitting Extender - Nickel - 8mm (Fitting Extender G1/4 (Ni))
A few more 780 things. First, the Asus 780 has two different fans? Lol. I found that odd. Second, while looking around for more about that Asus 780, I stumbled upon the ROG Poseidon. I had completely forgot about that thing! I read a quick review on it, and to be honest, the frames weren't much better than a regular 780. BUT, it doesn't come pre-OCed. I do have to say I LOVEEEE the design. It looks so sleek and sexy. Plus, what a brilliant design!! The temps I seen were very good, and the fans are apparently veryy quiet. BUTTT, I can't find ANYTHING about it! Like, where do you buy the damn thing?? No forum posts about release dates, no news on it. Only reviews, but no where to buy it. I am very confused on that thing.
K. I didn't think about the cooler much since I was taking it off. But the reviews I read seemed to like the logic of the different fan sizes.... and it's performance is top of the heap.
Also, have you thought about delidding your 4770k? I have read on it some, and it is suppose to drop temps by as much as 10 degrees celsius. Also making over clocking easier and better. Lot's of good things about it. Except it voids warranty and is dangerous to perform. But, I wanted to know your take.
L. I didn't see the point..... I mean I planned on it, was one of the features I like about the EB Blocks is ya can "go nekid" with Naked Ivy mount for $5, but I was at 74-75C with 46 multiplier / 46 cache ratio and I'm perfectly fine with that. I could see it more on Ivy but Haswell seems to hit voltage limits before temp limits and the advantage you get is less as Intel , while not getting it right, certainly improved the delta since Ivy. If my voltage wasn't up > 1.4 under Adaptive w/ ACX instructions, I'd go for 4.7 or 4.8 but 46/46 was my initial target.
By the way, when I seen that picture of the cardboard TI, I bursted out in laughter. Great stuff man.
It served it's purpose..... gave me confidence enough to buy the 1st 780 feeling perty sure it would fit.... and when it did, went out and bought the 2nd. That was a "modded" GTS 420 I salvaged from an office build.
Final question. What tubing and angles are you using?
Rigid 10/12 mm Acrylic Tubing - EK 12mm OD Solid Tube Set - Clear - 2x 19.5" (EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 500mm (2 pcs)
G1/4" x Rigid Tubing Connector (Male) - Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47)
G1/4" x Rigid Tubing Connector (Female) - Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68)
G1/4" 90° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R)
G1/4" 45° Rotary Bend - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB45R)
G1/4" Tee Fitting - Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)
G1/4" x Compression Connector (Male) - Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2)
Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)
Quick-Disconnect for Drain - Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
Tubing - Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027)
Bleeder Valve - Bitspower G1/4" Mini Valve - Matte Black (BP-MVV-MBK)
G1/4 30mm Fitting Extender - Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C63)
Flow Meter - Bitspower G1/4 Thread Flow Sensor - Matte Black (BP-FS-CLBKMBK)
Male by Male Extender - Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
Temperature Probes - Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
G1/4 Fitting Extender - Bitspower G 1/4" Thread Fitting Extender - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C40)
Fill Port Plug - Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)
Think that's all of it