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post #3331 of 19065
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisnyc75 View Post

Fwiw, in my ~6 months with the Enthoo, I've found that the optimal config is to have every fan in top, front, and bottom as INTAKE and one fan in the back as exhaust. After 6 months with very minimal maintenance (basically just cleaning the filters) there's not a spec of dust in my system and temps are right where you want them to be with a high end custom wc build.

Positive pressure, always. The more intake, the better. The air WILL find a way to exhaust through every nook and cranny; the dust won't get in.

If your front panel grill is broken, go to Home Depot or Lowe's or whatever and get a $2 air conditioner foam filter and just tape it on there as a temporary fix until you get the grille panel back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulyoung View Post

Exactly my conclusion mate, this is the only forum where people have got the same way of thinking with the EP, they always just say heat rises so have the bottom as intake and roof as exhaust. I was getting loads of negative feedback from the other forum, up until I showed them that by doing it my / your way I actually dropped the temps by about 4 degrees. As as soon as I posted proof the thread died. All the haters asking for proof, got what they wanted, and didn't reply.


If you drop Phanteks an email they will send you some new clips for the front panel. I'm on my 2nd set now, well 3rd I'm waiting for the rev 2 clips now, there customer service is great drop the a message you'll get a reply the next, if not the same day. I've also had the fan hub, and front led strip fail, and they are also sending them on to me too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

With the GPU adding say 300 watts to the CPUs 140, and having two of them, the GPU load is much bigger than the CPU..... OCCT's PSU test put a strain on both but it's been know to kill less than stellar PSUs ..... but unfortunately, it detects nVidia's drivers detect OCCT and throttle the card..... was wondering about what AMD does.
Shoulda included what I left unsaid here given the "filters on all inlets / no filters on outlets" mantra stated in previous posts. ...... if ya using the top fans as exhaust,I shuda noted that filters shud be removed.
To my mind this is in question ..... conventional wisdom says air in front and bottom and air on the top and back..... I see ya point but case manufacturer's have decided to go the other way ..... buy a case with fans up top and they are always installed blowing out. I'm kinda betwixt and between on the subject

- As exhaust fans would have the filter removed, that makes them a helluva lot more effective at moving air than as intake fans up top..... like getting a extra fan based upon your % estimate.
- Three fans up top blowing in, two in front blowing in, two on side blowing in, two on bottom blowing in ..... 9 fans is a lot even for the Enthoo's generous rear grille area. 9 in vs 1 out leaves 8 x 140mm for the grilles.....
- I really wouldn't want fresh air from the front intakes going right out the bottom grille.
- The two side grilles are "spoken for" with twin fan intakes.
- If as you say air will be forced out the side panel vents, what effect will the higher interior case pressure have on the PSU intake grille functionality ? With all that air looking for an exit, the fresh air intake will will be inhibited and cooling air to the PSU at least partially replaced by pre-heated case air. Of course a foam gasket could be built to eliminate that.
-You do get a slight boost in not fighting convection, but more importantly, you have the top and bottom air velocities "resisting" each other, and creating dead zones of low velocity. This is where those fan mounts on the interior side of the HD cages come in handy. In my WC build, I have no hot / dead spots according to the Infrared thermometer but that is helped by those extra fan in 5.25" bays.
-CPU Air cooler can be oriented upward which does a good job of aiding the cooling in area around MOFSETS and VRMs
-Can put a fan in 5.25 bays and 3.5 bays (using existing mounts) to keep air stirred up around MoBo if that's a concern.
[/LIST]

In a similar vein, I argued with myself on the two side fans....Still not sure what way will work best and, but like the bigger question above, only way to know would be to run some tests.....lotta good reasons supporting either alternative.

-use them as ins....it's more load that must go out the rear....fifteen 140s in and just 1 out ?
-use them as outs .... likely short circuiting with front fans


I'm kinda chuckling at my involvement in this discussion when I haven't had the filters in or side panels on in months smile.gif

Seen a dust speckle or 3 on top backplate, nothing in rads or anywhere else.
Well it was late .... duh ..... I go back and fix.....I wrote the sentence going the other way and said let me edit that and got it backwards .... obviously that contradicts everything I had said above it smile.gif
OK, let's summarize and if I got this right .....

(3) 120s in at bottom
(1) 120 rear exhaust
(2) 120s intakes on rad
Net = (5) in (1) out = 4 +

(2) 240s in
(3) 140s out

Net = (2) in (3) Out = 1 -

The 4+ 120s are gonna outweigh the 1- on the 140's so you should be fine..... but the problem as I see it is where is ya H105 mounted that it has access to two fan ports ?.....
And there's my answer ....

You have two fans pulling air into the case below thr radiator and three fans above the radiator puling air in the opposite direction ???? They are fighting each other so the rad is getting very poor cooling.

Big thanks to everyone who helped me on this topic. I'll set my fans to all intake tonight (with 1 exhaust). Doyll, the fans mounted to the bottom of the rad, (inside the case), are pushing air from inside the case into the RAD (i obviously didn't explain this well). the fans on top are currently pulling the air through and out the top filter - standard push/pull.

If i turn the top fans to intakes, then I would have fans blowing air into the rad from BOTH sides. Not sure that is a good idea?

Thanks.

PS I am still awaiting the front clips from Phanteks, so will look into the temporary dust filter option in the meantime.
post #3332 of 19065
Hi Guy's,

i have some questions belonging a water cooling build for my primo. I hope you can give me a feedback for my build.

I want to use a 480 push/pull in the bottom, and either a 420 UT45 (push/pull) or a 420 UT60 (pull from top) in top. I think I read that a 420 UT60 push/pull won't fit?!
Furthermore I want to use a 140 UT30 in the back of the case. The question for me is: does a 420 in top and a 140 in the back fit next to each other? Could there be a problem with tubing because they are to close? And I dont have a clue of tubing yet, I think I gonna take a 16/13 PVC tube...

The ordner of components shall be following:
Pump(DDC 1T / next to PSU) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump

Do you see any problems with this build? Please let me know if there are any improvements, its gonna be my first water cooling build!

JBC


Edited by JayBeeCee - 3/17/14 at 7:45am
post #3333 of 19065
Quote:
Originally Posted by skywalker311 View Post

I have a EK 420 rad and a XSPC 240 rad and not a alphacool rad and I'm making a fill port for my loop.

Yes. I knew that. I am not familiar with the ports on the EK so was offering this up for comparison since it was one I was familiar with.

You wrote:

"I'm using the top ports for my temperature plug and the other for the fill port. So what I wanted to know is where a good place to put the fill port."

So here's what you described:


Temp Probe - Fill Port *
_______________________
|
|
|---- Radiator
|
|
_______________________

Flow Out - Flow In

* When ya said "So what I wanted to know is where a good place to put the fill port.....I couldn't make sense of that as the previous statement said ya had temp and fill ports on top and thought ya might be looking for a bleed port.

So what I recommended was doing is this:

Bleed Port - Fill Port *
_______________________
|
|
|---- Radiator
|
|
_______________________

Flow Out - Tee - Temp probe on Tee Branch
- - - - - - - Flow In on Bottom of Tee

Ya connect the Tee between the Rad In (or Out) and the Rad ..... on the branch or side of the Tee ya out ya sensor.

That will work on the EK or any other rad with 4 ports as you described.



Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostFaceKeller View Post

If i turn the top fans to intakes, then I would have fans blowing air into the rad from BOTH sides. Not sure that is a good idea?

It is ....

Top Rad fans blowing on (down)
Bottom rad fans blowing in (up)

Will provide the lowest coolant Temperature.

-Two front fans blowing in, rear fan blowing out will help evacuate case air.
-Can add a fan in 5.25 bays if ya like in 3 of the slots tho w/ door closed doesn't d much.
-Can add side fans on left panel....I'm not quite sure how I like these as blowing out will result in short circuiting from intake fans....blowing in would make it 15 in and 1 out.





Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeeCee View Post

Hi Guy's,

i have some questions belonging a water cooling build for my primo. I hope you can give me a feedback for my build.

I want to use a 480 push/pull in the bottom, and either a 420 UT45 (push/pull) or a 420 UT60 (pull from top) in top. I think I read that a 420 UT60 push/pull won't fit?!
Furthermore I want to use a 140 UT30 in the back of the case. The question for me is: does a 420 in top and a 140 in the back fit next to each other? Could there be a problem with tubing because they are to close? And I dont have a clue of tubing yet, I think I gonna take a 16/13 PVC tube...

The ordner of components shall be following:
Pump(DDC 1T / next to PSU) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump

Do you see any problems with this build? Please let me know if there are any improvements, its gonna be my first water cooling build!


It will fit in the case..... check your MoBo layout to see if it will hamper you in any way that you find inconvenient. First off be aware that the difference in cooling between a XT45-420 (250 watts) and a UT60-420 (256 watts) is a mere 6 watts at 1250 rpm. So measure the cooling gain of the 6 watts against any inconveniences. I Jesse's build (modzoo.com), the 60mm rad cleared the MoBo Heat Sink but he had an issue with the EPS cable clearance with the UT60. I had issues with physical access to MCPIE Combo thingie (MiniSSD, Bluetooth, Wireless), voltage reading points, 8 pin EPS cable, MoBo block tube connection, MemOK LED, START button.....Of course, I could get at them of I removed the bottom fans but didn't think the inconvenience was worth 6 watts. It also would have prevented the installation of a fan controller in the top drive bay where i originally had it.....tho I liked it there better visually, I moved it to the 4th bay so I could readily access and change inputs thru the above slots. Finally my MoBo has a diagnostic LED panel which list Q-codes (fault diagnosis) .... with the 60mm in push / pull I couldn't see it anymore.

So in the end, I wuda gladly taken the 6 watts except if i didn't have to give up anything .... but that list was a bit too long for 6 watts not to mention it costs me $85 for the XT45 to get 250 watts ($0.34 per watt) and that extra 6 watts (+$20) was costing me $3.33 per watt.

With my 420, (I have it set as far back as it can go and still leave access tot he top ports), I have about 1.125 inches of clearance between the fan frame and the fan the top of which I have placed flush with the bottom of the rad. It could go about an inch lower but I don't have bottom fans on as yet which are a bit over an inch at 27mm.

1.125 is < 29mm so even a St30 would be a no go with top rad in this position. However, there is room to slide the 420 forward about 3/4 of a inch so "theortetically" ya might fit a XT45. But for 83 watts (1250 rpm), not sure if it's worth the tubing complications.

If ya don't need 6 HD bays, I'd suggest putting the pump on the alternate mount location under the Top HD cage....I'd consider a cylindrical res.... I'm not a fan of bay res's as:

1. Been reports of seam failure (glued joints). Not sure if since addressed or cause.
2. Some peeps report rattling even with pumps decoupled and gurgling noises.
3. Harder to bleed, likely source of noise above.
4. Much smaller thermal mass.....mass of liquid is helpful for minimizing effect of fans reacting to changes in temps.....short spurts of extreme load can cause CPU temps to rise which raises coolant temps and fan speeds to chase the higher tamp..... with the CPU having a larger mass to heat up, the tempo change of both coolant and CPU is slower.

I think this layout is a bit more efficient

Pump(DDC 1T / Under HD cage) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card(s) -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump

For 1 GFX card, you are way over radiated smile.gif ..... not that I have a problem with going overboard ....

Say 300 watts for 780 Ti OC'd to the wall and 4770k at 4.6 GHz, say 135 watts

with 20 watts for the pump .....

455 watts max theoretical load x 60% = 273 watts.....

I'd expect that your 420 will cool that system and result in a 10.9C delta T with just push fans .... 9.0C in P/P
I'd expect that your 420 + 480 will cool that system and result in a 5.5C delta T with just push fans .... 4.6C in P/P
I'd expect that your 420 + 480 + 140 will cool that system and result in a4.7C delta T with just push fans .... 4.0C in P/P

Martin classified systems by delta T as follows:

< 10C Extreme
10C High End
20C Mid-range
30C Entry level

You really see a diminishing return after 10C.

Those numbers would change

If you add a 2nd GFX card, you'd still be quite a bit under 10C with the 420 + 480 even w/ just 1 set of fans.....a 420 + 280 will easily handle twin GFX cards and haswell OC'd
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 3/17/14 at 9:57am
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post #3334 of 19065
You are right with the way that you show it. That how I'm doing my loop. On my EK 420 rad, it has two top ports and two bottom. One was going to be used for a temperature plug and the other a fill port.
See I'm doing acrylic tubing. I thought either making a fill port on the top back side of the case or with the top panel off dill a hole right above the top port and use a XSPC fill port fitting on the top with a male to female fitting on the rad. when I put my rad in place and have where it attach to the top of the case I'll be able to see what I can do.Here some pics of the fittings

fill port fitting down at the end where the where the port will be
I 140mm fans I 140mm fan I 140mm fan I XSPC Male to female rotary fitting
EK 420 RAD
then 3 more 140mm fans for push/pull The two bottom ports with Primochill fittings





CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 95
Edited by skywalker311 - 3/17/14 at 7:48am
post #3335 of 19065
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeeCee View Post

Hi Guy's,

i have some questions belonging a water cooling build for my primo. I hope you can give me a feedback for my build.

I want to use a 480 push/pull in the bottom, and either a 420 UT45 (push/pull) or a 420 UT60 (pull from top) in top. I think I read that a 420 UT60 push/pull won't fit?!
Furthermore I want to use a 140 UT30 in the back of the case. The question for me is: does a 420 in top and a 140 in the back fit next to each other? Could there be a problem with tubing because they are to close? And I dont have a clue of tubing yet, I think I gonna take a 16/13 PVC tube...

The ordner of components shall be following:
Pump(DDC 1T / next to PSU) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump

Do you see any problems with this build? Please let me know if there are any improvements, its gonna be my first water cooling build!

JBC









I personally would not send the hot coolant/water right to the bay/res heat will take its toll on the res and the pump (long term) I went from CPU to rad as I think most others too.
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post #3336 of 19065
Quote:
Originally Posted by simsim44 View Post

I personally would not send the hot coolant/water right to the bay/res heat will take its toll on the res and the pump (long term) I went from CPU to rad as I think most others too.

Component order doesn't matter as the loop will reach equilibrium shortly after it has been powered on.

.
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post #3337 of 19065
So you would say its ok like in my figure?
post #3338 of 19065
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeeCee View Post

So you would say its ok like in my figure?

Yeah your loop looks really clean. My current build and my last water cooled build both had the CPU to reservoir configuration and there were no problems. I'm still using the same pump from the last build and it's years old and just as strong as when I first purchased it. The only way you'd have any issues with premature wear due to heat is if the flow in your loop was so bad that it stayed in one section for seconds at a time. Coolant flows so quickly that component order makes little to no difference.

If you decided to use push/pull on the UT60 the added fans fit fine but in my opinion the fans come down too far and overlap the motherboard making the build look really cramped and at the same time make you have to remove one of the fans to unplug the 8-pin EPS cable should ever need to do so. If you're going to be using a 480mm radiator on the floor and a 420mm radiator on the ceiling, there wouldn't really be any reason to use a slim radiator on the rear fan exhaust even if you're going to cool everything including multiple GPU's unless it's just for looks.
Edited by Branish - 3/17/14 at 10:21am
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post #3339 of 19065
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post


If ya don't need 6 HD bays, I'd suggest putting the pump on the alternate mount location under the Top HD cage....I'd consider a cylindrical res.... I'm not a fan of bay res's as:

1. Been reports of seam failure (glued joints). Not sure if since addressed or cause.
2. Some peeps report rattling even with pumps decoupled and gurgling noises.
3. Harder to bleed, likely source of noise above.
4. Much smaller thermal mass.....mass of liquid is helpful for minimizing effect of fans reacting to changes in temps.....short spurts of extreme load can cause CPU temps to rise which raises coolant temps and fan speeds to chase the higher tamp..... with the CPU having a larger mass to heat up, the tempo change of both coolant and CPU is slower.

I think this layout is a bit more efficient

Pump(DDC 1T / Under HD cage) -> 480 Rad (in bottom) -> Graphics Card(s) -> 140 Rad ( in back) -> 420 Rad (top) -> CPU -> Res (5 1/4 Bay res) -> Pump

Since I am a newbie with watercooling, i had the feeling that a 5 1/4 Bay Res would be easy for me to install. I would take the EK Water Blocks Spin Reservoir. What do you think about this one?

I don't need any of the HDD cages. But since I use the 480 rad in bottom, where shall I place the pump? Rigth next to the front panel?
And do you have any suggestions for a Laing DDC pump cylindric res? And if so, where would be the best position to place it?
So far I am using a GTX580, when i am replacing the accelero Extreme I gonna mount that faceplate back in the case, so there would be space. But i don't really like the look of the cylindric res... I would only take one of those, if there is no other choice.

Sorry for my english, I am not a native speaker.
post #3340 of 19065
Quote:
Originally Posted by skywalker311 View Post

You are right with the way that you show it. That how I'm doing my loop. On my EK 420 rad, it has two top ports and two bottom. One was going to be used for a temperature plug and the other a fill port.
See I'm doing acrylic tubing. I thought either making a fill port on the top back side of the case or with the top panel off dill a hole right above the top port and use a XSPC fill port fitting on the top with a male to female fitting on the rad. when I put my rad in place and have where it attach to the top of the case I'll be able to see what I can do.Here some pics of the fittings

fill port fitting down at the end where the where the port will be
I 140mm fans I 140mm fan I 140mm fan I XSPC Male to female rotary fitting
EK 420 RAD

I also did acrylic tubing



You don't need to drill or a bulkhead fitting for the Enthoo..... sliding the rad forward just a bit from the back puts the two ports in open area.



If you looking to free another top port, using a M X M threaded fitting, from the port shown above and then a Tee on top of that would allow a thermal sensor to be installed and the top side of the tee would make a fine fill port.

Plug / fill port
|
|-- Tee with Temp Sensor
|
M x M Fitting
|
Radiator

Here's the links for the parts shud ya wanna go that route.

Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10363/ex-tub-609/Bitspower_Dual_G14_Male_Male_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C08.html?tl=c101s1354b145

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html

Bitspower G 1/4" Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-CT)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10373/ex-tub-620/Bitspower_G_14_Temperature_Sensor_Stop_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-CT.html?tl=c229s579b145&id=kISyRgfV&mv_pc=643 ex-tub-620

Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html

But, as I see it, I don't think ya need to do that .....I think all ya need to do is ..... with rad mounted as above.....

-Screw in a 30mm extension with temp sensor / plug on top
-Screw in a 30mm extension with plug on top for fill port

BTW, make sure ya put in the extensions before ya tighten Rad down.... you could wind up with the top fan / rad mounting plate wedged between the fitting and the rad and ya won't be able to get a good seal on the O-Ring

Here's a pic of mine with two 30mm extensions and plugs .... Used 1 as a fill port / 2nd as a bleed port ... in this manner you will be able to access the plugs and be able to unscrew them easily with fans in place and also use loosen the temp sensor if ya wanna bleed while filling....otherwise getting fingers down that hole between the case well and the fans is challenging



That was done w/ no drill and no bulkhead fitting..... you can see the two 30mm extensions which I just added to get the connection point higher than the fans (27mm thick) for easier access. You can also see the wire from the temp sensor which comes from the sideport.

BTW, I found the tubing is much easier with the top rad ports in the back and the bottom ra ports in the front. Ya can also use some leftover acrylic and a mini valve to make a fill port extension. Valve comes in real handy for preventing air getting into the system. Fill the tube, close the valve, turn on pump....as air bubbles come out and go in tube, it;'s replaces with coolant..... also for topping off res, it allows you to control coolant going in. Just close valve when coolant drops to the plug level and no air can get in




How ya going to set up ya drain ? When I had a 480 planned I was gonna take it out thru a drilled hole in the rear of the case. Two reasons why I chose a 280 instead for the bottom were.....

1. 420 + 280 is more than enuff Rad for Haswell (4.6 Ghz)+ any twin GFX cards (25% OC)
2. Ya get to do this Quick Disconnect thingie for the drain




Collecting for ideas in case I ever wind up doing a build with a 480 down there .... my 2 sons will graduate college this year and they and several friends are looking for me to help them w/ graduation builds.

I discovered a 3rd reason .... Doyll was the 1st to point out the limited intake at the bottom is limited.... at least with 480's. The 280 installation however manages to steal air flow from the front case fan inlets, down thru the floor gratting and then up thru the Rad..... kept wondering why I was getting more cooling from the bottom 280 than the top 420 (with top grille on) and that was the reason (now since remedied).

Quote:
Originally Posted by simsim44 View Post

I personally would not send the hot coolant/water right to the bay/res heat will take its toll on the res and the pump (long term) I went from CPU to rad as I think most others too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Branish View Post

Component order doesn't matter as the loop will reach equilibrium shortly after it has been powered on..

You're talking like 2.0 - 2.5C temp difference max across both rads and that's with fans at low speeds.....1.5 across one

Right now running Prime 95 w/ AVX

GPUs => 420 Rad In (26.3C) / 420 Rad Out (25.9C) => CPU Block => MoBo Block => Res => Pump => 280 Rad In (26.4C) / 280 Rad Out (26.1C) =>GPUs

So if I had the 2nd Rad before the Res, water temps would be 0.3C lower. On Furmark, I can get the temps up higher but max difference at I have seen across both rads was 2.3C. I wouldn't go from GFX cards to CPU without a rad in between if possible but 1-2C shouldn't bother a res or pump. Highest I was ever able to get my coolant temp was just under 38-39C ...and that was with all fans off.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeeCee View Post

Since I am a newbie with watercooling, i had the feeling that a 5 1/4 Bay Res would be easy for me to install. I would take the EK Water Blocks Spin Reservoir. What do you think about this one?

I don't need any of the HDD cages. But since I use the 480 rad in bottom, where shall I place the pump? Rigth next to the front panel?
And do you have any suggestions for a Laing DDC pump cylindric res? And if so, where would be the best position to place it?

Sorry for my english, I am not a native speaker.

In the Enthoo, a cylindrical res is extremely easy to install....you often don't even need the nuts that come with it.....look at the white one above (EK Res-3 250).... The two screws go right into the res bracket, and done.

As for the alternate pump mounting .....

1. Take out the bottom HD cage, leaving the upper cage installed.
2. Take the pump mounting plate from the position by the PSU and move to the alternate location under the HD cages.
3. I don't recommend coupling pumps and reservoirs .... not that there is anything bad in doing so but it sometimes introduces warranty issues and does transmit pump vibrations to the res which in turn transfers them to the case.

here's a pic of the 35x2 which is two DDC pumps in a common housing and mounted on a heat sink with fan



This would be the equivalent for a single pump



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13221/ex-pmp-138/Swiftech_MCP35X-HS_Pump_Heatsink_-_Laing_DDC-1T1TPlus_MCP-35035535X.html#blank
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 3/17/14 at 5:36pm
911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
  hide details  
Reply
911 Carrera
(20 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel w/ EK Supremacy Cooling Block - Clean P... Asus Maximus VI Formula 2 x Asus GTX 780 DCII w/ EK Full Cover Blocks a... Mushkin Red Line Ridgeback 2 x 8GB DDR302400 10... 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
1 x Swiftech 35x2 w/ Heatsink and NB Fan EK -MultiOption RES X3 250 White Acetal Reservoir 5 x PH-F140SP_BK_BLED + 5 x PH-F140SP_BK E22 Rigid 10/12 Acrylic Tubing and Bitspower Ma... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
2 x Reeven Six Eyes Fan Controller Windows 7 64 Bit Professional OEM ASUS VG248QE Black 23" 144 Hz Monitor Logitech G19s 920-004985 
PowerCaseMouseAudio
Seasonic X-1250 Phanteks Enthoo Primo Ultimate Chassis Asus RoG GX950 Laser Mouse  Logitech Z5500 
  hide details  
Reply
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