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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 343

post #3421 of 18654
That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.
post #3422 of 18654
Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostFaceKeller View Post

That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.
¨

Maybe they didn't go for magnets becouse they can come loose if you have the case in for example the car and drive around, and then maybe breake something like the fans behind. The door is still attached to the case when the magnet comes of.
post #3423 of 18654
The easiest way I found to remove the front dust filter intake panel is to remove the bottom 5.25" slot cover and hook your fingers in behind the panel, then push with your thumbs. This is annoying though and if something is installed in the slot then obviously it won't work.
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post #3424 of 18654
Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

The same pressure it takes to get them latched is what it takes to get them un-latcheded.


The first time I unlatched mine I thought my thumbs would break before the latch released. thumb.gif

I find it much easier to remove the front panel and THEN have my thumbs push from the front and rest of fingers from the back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by paulyoung View Post

That's the problem the pressure you need to use is stupid. My case is on a wheeled riser, and the force I need to push, to either close or open the front panel moves the case, even with the wheels locked, it wants to slide.

I fully understand that you push to latch and to un-latch. And never once pulled them to open the panel so it doesn't need pointing out the way you just did, it came across patronising.


If there wasn't an issue with the catches why after only 2 weeks of being available did Phanteks themselves announce that they have revised the latching mechanism, due to high numbers requests for replacements.


Ya have to realize that many people gave up pushing in frustration thinking it couldn't possibly be that hard to remove .....was tempted myself and I did do a little twisting action, shifting left and right pressure and even a slight pull thinking something might be stuck behind it preventing it from going in. I finally did get it off by taking the front panel off and squeezing from both sides but I couldn't get it to go back on. I have to be honest and say some of my preceding actions may have contributed to it breaking.

I think, as a manufacturer, you have to think about what we have read about here a lot over the years with overclocked (and even delidded) CPUs, water cooled GFX cards, modded water pumps and the like ..... where some peeps will say "Yes, it technically voids the warranty but they won't know if ya don't tell them". I am sure that there's a wide spectrum of user experiences out their from peeps who had it broken in the case when it arrives thanks to the FedEx gorillas to peeps who just yanked it off. I admit, my attempts to get it off may have contributed to the failure.

I don't recall the issue being formally addressed with an announcement of a replacement within 2 weeks..... I woulda said 6 to 8 weeks or more. It took about week after it was available for peeps even to receive them and provide any feedback ..... I can't see them developing, testing a fix and announcing a fix within a week. I think we have to remember we are dealing with a global organization .....

Fabricated in China, probably thru an office in Taiwan by with a Dutch Design Team and a NA office in California. Before any formal announcements, and the potential financial obligation associated therewith, any resolution has to be designed, fabricated, tested, cost analysis prepared by the bean counters, reviewed by the actuaries, approved by the legal sharks and all the big wigs gotta sign off.... With the folks at Phanteks USA having to wait for all the communications between all those teams on two continents half a world away, that's gonna take some time.

I also think Phanteks got caught in some other logistics issues being a "newbie" in the case field. The logistics of delivering a case to word markets, especially a 40+ pound case, must present some logistics issues that taught a few lessons to a team whose experience to date encompassed shipping coolers with just a handful of mounting options in boxes the size of 6" cubes to thousands of component options and causing UPS drivers to complain about back strain wink.gif.

I think they did an outstanding job on their 'fist case" and, it being the first with as many innovations as it has, there was bound to be some bugaboos. However, From reading the stories here on OCN on how long it takes us here in the US to get a Pump RMA from Swiftech or WB replacement from EK, I think we do pretty good with 2 weeks. I do have to say that I have been shipped various parts, the clippies being the only broken ones, and they all arrived in a 3 - 6 days.

Sure I would like to get everything done "in a matter of days" but this seems to be the norm with global companies. I have always had good experiences with Asus, (especially since on most of the ones I own, they qualify for the "they ship the replacement before ya have to send broken one back" service) but last year it took from before Halloween to after New Year's to "get 'er done". Problem was their system didn't know how to handle an RMA on an RMA (replacement board was warped).

Overall, given my previous experience with global companies, I'd have to give Phantek's a B+



Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostFaceKeller View Post

That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.

I have a "Suggestions for version 2" list somewhere on my HD .....will have to dig it out.

The front panel gets most of my attention tho.....

1. The top door I would like to have a similar cutout so that the user could choose between:

a) Solid panel insert like we have now but simlar to area below where it's a panel within a frame
b) Vented insert so we could use and air intake / exhaust
c) Acrylic insert o match side panel, so I could read my temps w/o opening door.

2. The bottom panel is a quandry as cleaning that filter is a chore on the initial cases..... reportedly addressed in the 1.1 version. I think they probably thought of a hinge but I can see a potential disaster when moving the case as when shifting ya grip to turn it ya wound up with the door swinging open and the entire 80 pound weight of the case resting on the two hinges. Again, I'd like to see the same options as above.

Coulda made the top door a little longer and used it to cover a thumbscrew at the top.
Edited by JackNaylorPE - 3/24/14 at 8:43am
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911 Carrera
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Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
2 x SAMSUNG 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD256BW 2.5" 256GB (2 x Seagate ST2000DX001 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cach... Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blue Ray Writer 1 x Alphacool NexXxoS XT45-420 + 1 x Alphacool ... 
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post #3425 of 18654
Hi,

I am about to put everything into my case. Right now I am wondering how to manage the air flow. I've seen a lot of builds with the bottom rad blowing air OUT of the case. Isn't this working agains an chimney effect? If I do so, i would only have the two front fans blowing air into the case, the back fan and the three fans on top are blowing air out as well. Any suggestions?
post #3426 of 18654
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeeCee View Post

Hi,

I am about to put everything into my case. Right now I am wondering how to manage the air flow. I've seen a lot of builds with the bottom rad blowing air OUT of the case. Isn't this working agains an chimney effect? If I do so, i would only have the two front fans blowing air into the case, the back fan and the three fans on top are blowing air out as well. Any suggestions?

All fans on top, bottom, & front should be INTAKE. Rear fan is exhaust.

The "chimney effect" doesn't come into play when you have fans forcing air movement; the air will go where you tell it to. Keeping positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) is the best way to keep dust out and cool air moving through your system.
post #3427 of 18654
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNaylorPE View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by doyll View Post

The same pressure it takes to get them latched is what it takes to get them un-latcheded.


The first time I unlatched mine I thought my thumbs would break before the latch released. thumb.gif

I find it much easier to remove the front panel and THEN have my thumbs push from the front and rest of fingers from the back.


Quote:
Originally Posted by paulyoung View Post

That's the problem the pressure you need to use is stupid. My case is on a wheeled riser, and the force I need to push, to either close or open the front panel moves the case, even with the wheels locked, it wants to slide.

I fully understand that you push to latch and to un-latch. And never once pulled them to open the panel so it doesn't need pointing out the way you just did, it came across patronising.




If there wasn't an issue with the catches why after only 2 weeks of being available did Phanteks themselves announce that they have revised the latching mechanism, due to high numbers requests for replacements.


Ya have to realize that many people gave up pushing in frustration thinking it couldn't possibly be that hard to remove .....was tempted myself and I did do a little twisting action, shifting left and right pressure and even a slight pull thinking something might be stuck behind it preventing it from going in. I finally did get it off by taking the front panel off and squeezing from both sides but I couldn't get it to go back on. I have to be honest and say some of my preceding actions may have contributed to it breaking.

I think, as a manufacturer, you have to think about what we have read about here a lot over the years with overclocked (and even delidded) CPUs, water cooled GFX cards, modded water pumps and the like ..... where some peeps will say "Yes, it technically voids the warranty but they won't know if ya don't tell them". I am sure that there's a wide spectrum of user experiences out their from peeps who had it broken in the case when it arrives thanks to the FedEx gorillas to peeps who just yanked it off. I admit, my attempts to get it off may have contributed to the failure.

I don't recall the issue being formally addressed with an announcement of a replacement within 2 weeks..... I woulda said 6 to 8 weeks or more. It took about week after it was available for peeps even to receive them and provide any feedback ..... I can't see them developing, testing a fix and announcing a fix within a week. I think we have to remember we are dealing with a global organization .....

Fabricated in China, probably thru an office in Taiwan by with a Dutch Design Team and a NA office in California. Before any formal announcements, and the potential financial obligation associated therewith, any resolution has to be designed, fabricated, tested, cost analysis prepared by the bean counters, reviewed by the actuaries, approved by the legal sharks and all the big wigs gotta sign off.... With the folks at Phanteks USA having to wait for all the communications between all those teams on two continents half a world away, that's gonna take some time.

I also think Phanteks got caught in some other logistics issues being a "newbie" in the case field. The logistics of delivering a case to word markets, especially a 40+ pound case, must present some logistics issues that taught a few lessons to a team whose experience to date encompassed shipping coolers with just a handful of mounting options in boxes the size of 6" cubes to thousands of component options and causing UPS drivers to complain about back strain wink.gif.

I think they did an outstanding job on their 'fist case" and, it being the first with as many innovations as it has, there was bound to be some bugaboos. However, From reading the stories here on OCN on how long it takes us here in the US to get a Pump RMA from Swiftech or WB replacement from EK, I think we do pretty good with 2 weeks. I do have to say that I have been shipped various parts, the clippies being the only broken ones, and they all arrived in a 3 - 6 days.

Sure I would like to get everything done "in a matter of days" but this seems to be the norm with global companies. I have always had good experiences with Asus, (especially since on most of the ones I own, they qualify for the "they ship the replacement before ya have to send broken one back" service) but last year it took from before Halloween to after New Year's to "get 'er done". Problem was their system didn't know how to handle an RMA on an RMA (replacement board was warped).

Overall, given my previous experience with global companies, I'd have to give Phantek's a B+



Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostFaceKeller View Post

That's a fair point for sure. IMO a strong magnet latch, similar to what is used on front the 5 1/4 inch bay door would have been a much better option. However I imagine there would be a reason they didn't go for that, as everything on the case is very well thought out.

I have a "Suggestions for version 2" list somewhere on my HD .....will have to dig it out.

The front panel gets most of my attention tho.....

1. The top door I would like to have a similar cutout so that the user could choose between:

a) Solid panel insert like we have now but simlar to area below where it's a panel within a frame
b) Vented insert so we could use and air intake / exhaust
c) Acrylic insert o match side panel, so I could read my temps w/o opening door.

2. The bottom panel is a quandry as cleaning that filter is a chore on the initial cases..... reportedly addressed in the 1.1 version. I think they probably thought of a hinge but I can see a potential disaster when moving the case as when shifting ya grip to turn it ya wound up with the door swinging open and the entire 80 pound weight of the case resting on the two hinges. Again, I'd like to see the same options as above.

Coulda made the top door a little longer and used it to cover a thumbscrew at the top.
Ain't 20/20 hindsight great? biggrin.gif

Was just having a play with mine. The case crossbar is flexing. When we apply pressure from both sides and squeeze there is no flex and the release / latch easier.

I applied a small dob of Super Glue on to tip of the latch tab / arrow on the cover, used some activator to harden it. That got me about half way to the latches working easy.. Tried another dob to add a little more length and now its too much. Need to file it down some or file the back of arrow bits.. don't want to do that.

How are the push latches removed from case? I'm wondering if they could be modified too. If they had put the latches near the corners instead of near the middle I don't think there would be a problem. frown.gif
post #3428 of 18654
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisnyc75 View Post

All fans on top, bottom, & front should be INTAKE. Rear fan is exhaust.

The "chimney effect" doesn't come into play when you have fans forcing air movement; the air will go where you tell it to. Keeping positive pressure (more intake than exhaust) is the best way to keep dust out and cool air moving through your system.

But isn't fresh air blowing into the case bringing dust as wall? I thought the other way around, that exhausting fans would keep dust out of the case... I am sorry but now I am confused =)
post #3429 of 18654
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeeCee View Post

But isn't fresh air blowing into the case bringing dust as wall? I thought the other way around, that exhausting fans would keep dust out of the case... I am sorry but now I am confused =)

No, because every fan should have a dust filter keeping the air you're pulling into the case clean. If every fan is intake, and every intake is filtered, then any UNfiltered crack and crevice will act as a way for the positive air pressure inside the case to get out -- meaning no dust gets in.

And don't worry about the pressure build up inside the case. It's not airtight, there are plenty of nooks and crannies for air to get out, just keep pulling cool air IN and the rest will take care of itself.
post #3430 of 18654
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBeeCee View Post

But isn't fresh air blowing into the case bringing dust as wall? I thought the other way around, that exhausting fans would keep dust out of the case... I am sorry but now I am confused =)

if all the intakes are filtered, and you have more filtered air being forced into the case than air being pulled from the case, then you have what's called positive pressure inside your case and every unfiltered location becomes an exhaust (a place where the filtered intake air can escape).

What is positive air pressure?: How does positive and negative pressure affect airflow in a chassis?
http://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_positive


Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 3/24/14 at 10:51am
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