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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 346

post #3451 of 18706
Just a quick question, can someone that has a case available check the clearance behind the front door to the 5 1/4" bay front as I have a Lamptron FC5 fan controller and would like to use it in a Enthoo. I've still to purchase the case, still researching.
thanks
post #3452 of 18706
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torus15 View Post

Just a quick question, can someone that has a case available check the clearance behind the front door to the 5 1/4" bay front as I have a Lamptron FC5 fan controller and would like to use it in a Enthoo. I've still to purchase the case, still researching.
thanks
Last question in FAQ in OP. thumb.gif
post #3453 of 18706
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torus15 View Post

Just a quick question, can someone that has a case available check the clearance behind the front door to the 5 1/4" bay front as I have a Lamptron FC5 fan controller and would like to use it in a Enthoo. I've still to purchase the case, still researching.
thanks

It's here in the thread... I answered the question back in November . I can tell you the Reeven Six Eyes lets ya close the door w/o hitting the buttons. Though it doesn't matter cause the Reevn Six Eyes was smartly designed with buttons that "push in / push out", so they can sit flush and when ya wanna turn a knob....push it it pops out, turn it and then push it back in. As I recall the knobs stuck out 7.92mm and the face plate of the Reeven when mounted so the holes line up is sunk in behind the case door frame about 3mm.
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post #3454 of 18706
Thanks for that, not looking good for the Lamptron then.
Does anyone else think that the door is on the wrong side of the case.
If you have the case on your desk it would be nice to see whats behind the door and have the window side visible.
Looking at the hinges I'm sure that you can't swap them over, has anyone tried?
post #3455 of 18706
cmp3.9.27.3q4 0xdcdf0d34


Hey all. Well I got my neodymium magnets in and have modded them into the case for the front filter panel and it works very well. I removed the female portion of the push clips. The two side holes I had to drill them out with a 3/8ths inch bit and drilled clear through and then I pushed the magnets into the hole. I drilled it out as you want the magnets to sit flush.

They are holding in tight by themselves but I may use a small drop of epoxy around the edge for final securing. The middle magnet is held on by 2 layers of double sided tape so that it would bring it out to the right distance.

All three magnets line up with three screws on the back of the filter and since the magnet faces are countersunk the screw heads can sit in them far enough and thus providing the magnetic pull to hold the filter in place.

I would say the force to pull the filter loose is maybe about twice as much pull as is required to open the 5.25 bay door.

Here is a link to the magnets.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R622CS-N

Works pretty well.

Thanks,
Griff
post #3456 of 18706
Paulyoung I called last week about the fan hub and 140mm led fan and in about 4 days I had an email with the tracking number. It's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow afternoon via UPS. So I would say total from the first phone call till I have the package in hand will be about 10 days. That's as long as it is delivered tomorrow like UPS is saying. To be honest I am pretty satisfied with their custom support so far. What I am not happy with is what seems to be a lack of quality control before leaving the factory. I haven't even received the replacement fan hub and fan and already realized that I will have to call them again. The top led strip is only lighting up about half length. For what we pay for these cases they should inspect them alil better. But they are also new when it comes to selling and building cases so hopefully they get alil better with time.


owcraftsman Thanks alot for the compliment. It's still has a lot to go before being all done but so far I am liking the look of it. It was alil tight working in for the size of the exterior. But it does have a lot of aspects to it that are so much nicer than some of the other more expensive cases. I am going to this case from a 900d that I will be selling now and to be honest this cases build quality is on par if not better than the 900d. ( except for the broken fan hub, 140mm led fan and top led strip) I love the built in psu shroud, reservoir bracket/ wires cover, side mount lower fan filters ect... One thing I wish they did differently is the hard drive cage side panel. It would have been so much nicer and more convenient if they made it out of 2 pieces. Like that we would have the option of just removing the lower half to have more space to mount the lower rad easier and even leave it off so you get a full view of it and still have the side of your 5.25" bays covered. But that's what the good old Dremel 4000 is for. I am still considering swapping the top Swiftech 480mm rad with either a EK XTX 480 or Monsta 480 if anything for the look. I just ordered 3- EK Supremacy universal gpu blocks for my 7970's with the sli bridge so they all match the cpu block. I might also swap the Bitspower 1/2" x 3/4" compressions for EK compressions. Like that the loops will be almost all matching except for the dual d5 pump top. I've heard too many issues from people who have used the EK dual d5 pump top so I'll stick with my good old trusty Bitspower dual pump top. thumb.gif
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post #3457 of 18706
Regarding the whole CPU/GPU temperature discussion (chrisnyc75 and JackNaylor), I think a good and simpler analogy is liquid flow and bottlenecking.

Consider a big container like a bottle or something, that you can fill from the top and it has a hole for liquid to escape at the bottom. After a point, no matter how much liquid is poured in, the flow of the liquid will almost exclusively be dictated by the size of the hole at the bottom. When the liquid is poured in fast enough that it exceeds the capacity of the bottom hole to let it escape, the container will start getting filled, despite the fact that there is a way for the liquid to escape.

Similarly with heat transfer. The GPUs spread their heat on a much larger surface (>400mm^2 for high-end GPUs and <150 or even 100mm^2 for most CPUs) so it's easier for it to escape towards the medium one puts over the die for cooling. There are other factors in play, but they account for negligible amounts of heat, so just having that in mind is enough.

One must also not forget that when the cooler itself is hot (i.e. when touching the heatsink of a CPU cooler and it's warm or hot) its efficiency drops, sometimes rather dramatically. The bigger the deltaT between the die and the cooler is, the more efficient the cooler will be at moving heat from the die to environment.

Surface area of the cooling apparatus, be it a heatsink or water cooling radiators/blocks is a huge factor because of the point about efficiency. When there is a huge area available for heat dissipation, heat is more evenly spread out and is way easier to be moved towards the environment, thus resulting larger temperature differences between the (hot) dies and the (cold-ideally ambient temperature) radiator. However, that only applies until the cooling is saturated with heat which again, is much harder with large surface area water cooling setups. This can easily be verified if someone with a wc loop just turns off their fans and see how long it takes for the system to overheat. I bet it will last a while under even full load before problems from overheating start manifesting. That is because, given enough cooling surface area, even passive heat dissipation is huge compared to air cooling desings.

Finally, regarding current GPU air-cooling solutions... They're basically crap. But they can't get much better without becoming huge and heavy. Fact is that if one put a CPU heatsink on a GPU they'd get amazing temps (I tried this once with an old NVidia 6800 Ultra whose cooler was broken - VRMs didn't like that solution though), but if they put a GPU cooler on a CPU somehow, the result would be less than pleasing I guess. Still, these can't be directly compared because they have quite different designs and purposes, but you get the idea.
Edited by tolis626 - 3/28/14 at 4:25am
post #3458 of 18706
Quote:
Originally Posted by grifftech View Post

cmp3.9.27.3q4 0xdcdf0d34


Hey all. Well I got my neodymium magnets in and have modded them into the case for the front filter panel and it works very well. I removed the female portion of the push clips. The two side holes I had to drill them out with a 3/8ths inch bit and drilled clear through and then I pushed the magnets into the hole. I drilled it out as you want the magnets to sit flush.

They are holding in tight by themselves but I may use a small drop of epoxy around the edge for final securing. The middle magnet is held on by 2 layers of double sided tape so that it would bring it out to the right distance.

All three magnets line up with three screws on the back of the filter and since the magnet faces are countersunk the screw heads can sit in them far enough and thus providing the magnetic pull to hold the filter in place.

I would say the force to pull the filter loose is maybe about twice as much pull as is required to open the 5.25 bay door.

Here is a link to the magnets.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R622CS-N

Works pretty well.

Thanks,
Griff





That's awesome thanks for the link. I ordered replacement latches back in early January It was today that I got to resolve the order as I did not get the correct quantity, after quite a few email correspondences Home click is shipping the rest of the order. This solution would have been easier I think.
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post #3459 of 18706
Man some really nice builds here guys, keep up the good work. And great idea on using magnetic latches instead.
post #3460 of 18706
Quote:
Originally Posted by chino1974 View Post

Paulyoung I called last week about the fan hub and 140mm led fan and in about 4 days I had an email with the tracking number. It's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow afternoon via UPS. So I would say total from the first phone call till I have the package in hand will be about 10 days. That's as long as it is delivered tomorrow like UPS is saying. To be honest I am pretty satisfied with their custom support so far. What I am not happy with is what seems to be a lack of quality control before leaving the factory. I haven't even received the replacement fan hub and fan and already realized that I will have to call them again. The top led strip is only lighting up about half length. For what we pay for these cases they should inspect them alil better. But they are also new when it comes to selling and building cases so hopefully they get alil better with time.


Cheers mate, after looking at the dates of my first email, I'm actually into my 6th week of waiting. I sent another email to them about 24hrs ago, but no reply, as of yet. Yep I agree the quality control is pretty poor, my left door panel is not a simple put to fit you've kina got to attatch as normal but once in place the top side needs to be pushed up slightly for the screw to fit. The other side panel will only take one screw the bottom hole is out by about 3mm. What you are experiencing with your top LED is exactly what happened to mine, only mine is the front, also my front strip, hasn't got the clear plastic insert like the top has.

When I first saw the case on Youtube I couldn't wait till it came out, and pr ordered at the first chance I had, I even sold my Z87 XPower to downsize from XL ATx to a regular ATX cos it wouldn't fit. Overall I'm quite disapointed to be honest, I'mm seriously thinking of going down the Caselabs route, to no at least I'm getting quality. I can't seem to find a case I'm happy with, the EP is the closet I've come, on paper at least.
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