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[Official] Case PHANTEKS Case Club for lovers & owners - Page 524

post #5231 of 19369
I will find out in s few days, but can anyone tell me if the Bitspower 250 Res can fit on the mounting location on the rear of the Enthoo Luxe. I know the XSPC Photon are too wide, but this res is 15mm thinner than that one.
My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770K @ 4.7ghz Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H EVGA GTX 980TI ACX 2.0  8GB G.Skill Trident X 2400 mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
3TB Toshiba  3TB Toshiba Crucial MX300 Custom Water 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Window 7 Ultimate 64 bit Acer CZ340CK  Corsair HX750i Phanteks Enthoo Luxe 
Mouse
Logitech G600 
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My System
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770K @ 4.7ghz Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H EVGA GTX 980TI ACX 2.0  8GB G.Skill Trident X 2400 mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveCooling
3TB Toshiba  3TB Toshiba Crucial MX300 Custom Water 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Window 7 Ultimate 64 bit Acer CZ340CK  Corsair HX750i Phanteks Enthoo Luxe 
Mouse
Logitech G600 
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post #5232 of 19369
Hello,

Would any owners of the Enthoo Primo be willing to take a a picture of the case with the front panel door removed? I really want to go with an Enthoo Primo, but I have a front-panel device that won't really fit or work with that front panel door in place...I'd like to see what the case looks like with the front panel door removed, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for your help.

This is the front panel device in question, for those curious:

ASUS ROG Front Base



    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X6 1090T ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Crossfired ASUS EAH6970 DirectCU II Corsair Dominator CMD8GX3M4A1333C7 (4x2GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Intel X-25M 160GB SSD LG Black 10X Blu-ray Burner Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit Three Dell P2310H Monitors 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G110 Enermax Galaxy EVO 1250W Thermaltake Level 10 GT Logitech G500 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X6 1090T ASUS Sabertooth 990FX Crossfired ASUS EAH6970 DirectCU II Corsair Dominator CMD8GX3M4A1333C7 (4x2GB) 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Intel X-25M 160GB SSD LG Black 10X Blu-ray Burner Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit Three Dell P2310H Monitors 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G110 Enermax Galaxy EVO 1250W Thermaltake Level 10 GT Logitech G500 
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post #5233 of 19369
Quote:
Originally Posted by Konig-Wolf View Post

Hello,

Would any owners of the Enthoo Primo be willing to take a a picture of the case with the front panel door removed? I really want to go with an Enthoo Primo, but I have a front-panel device that won't really fit or work with that front panel door in place...I'd like to see what the case looks like with the front panel door removed, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for your help. snip (Click to show)
This is the front panel device in question, for those curious:

ASUS ROG Front Base



I'm not going to remove my door for a picture, sorry (perhaps someone else will) but you should be able to get an idea from images already available. IMHO it wouldn't look very good but that's just me. The door will unscrew from the hinges with 4 screws, 2 on each hinge going into the door, but the hinges themselves would have to be cut off if you don't want them.

Enthoo Primo Door

Enthoo Primo Door

There's ~5mm of space for knobs and such on bay devices to fit behind the door. If you have a knob/button that sticks out more than that you also might be able to take a forstner bit and drill out a hole in the plastic back panel of the door to make a few mm of extra room for it. Best to do something like that with the door removed and preferably using a drill press.

late edit: Looking at it closer, the door itself is ~10mm thick with most of that being plastic with a ~1.3mm sheet of aluminum on the front. It looks like the plastic and the aluminum can be unscrewed from each other and separated which if so that would make it a lot easier to drill a hole just in the plastic - you could use a regular hole saw bit with a larger diameter than your knob - which provided you lined it up right once put back together should gain you another ~8mm or so of clearance for a knob/button.
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 8/10/14 at 7:11pm
post #5234 of 19369
Quote:
Originally Posted by Konig-Wolf View Post

Hello,

Would any owners of the Enthoo Primo be willing to take a a picture of the case with the front panel door removed? I really want to go with an Enthoo Primo, but I have a front-panel device that won't really fit or work with that front panel door in place...I'd like to see what the case looks like with the front panel door removed, if at all possible. Thanks in advance for your help.

This is the front panel device in question, for those curious:

ASUS ROG Front Base




You can can actually push your fan controller further back into the case so you can close the door with the knob. ( the drive bay is deeper than a normal dvd drive is..so even that I can move further into the case without causing any issues.. I am sure your fan controller is actually not as thick as a drive..so I dont see a problem
post #5235 of 19369
Come to think of it, I still have 1 test that I didn't test: would the fan hub still work if I jury rig the fan leads so that the mobo reads RPM directly from the fan and totally by pass the hub PCB? I still haven't use a multimeter to test the #3 pin to see if there is any voltage drop between the RPM input and output. If there is any, or if the resistance get unusually high, then the hub is to be blame.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Not so strange. Then you were using direct control of your fans and with the Phanteks hub you are now using the PWM signal in from the mobo to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply (cuts the power on/off really fast) to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse to simulate the voltage going up/down. It's a bit of a hack how they did it (it's been tried before apparently), and it's not going to work as well as direct control would nor will it work so well with all fans. Some voltage-controlled fans don't like to be controlled by modulating the current (like a cheap fan controller typically does) and some fan manufacturers recommend against it. For example Nidec says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.

Anywho, that's partly why I didn't even try using the Phanteks hub myself, also because I have way too many fans for it I needed to control, and instead am using a good fan controller that automatically controls my fan speeds based on my loop temps.

All PWM works under the same principle, the only difference is either do it internally(more efficient) or do it externally(less efficient). In fact most Nidec products already have a built in pwm circuits implemented(Nidec japan also receive industrial orders for the discontinued AP15/25 with extra PWM control)
Edited by WHIMington - 8/11/14 at 3:25am
post #5236 of 19369
Quote:
Originally Posted by PinkoTheCommi View Post

I am experiencing something strange with my PWM fan hub, or is this normal?

Anyways, here is my setup in regards to the PWM fan hub:

I have an Asus Z87-A, the fan hub PWM connector is plugged into my CPU_FAN header, the only true PWM header on this motherboard, just as the manual instructs us to do. I do not have the SATA power plugged in.

I get a controllable range of 30-100%, which is weird because for a true PWM, I was expecting full 0-100%, at least when I had my CPU/Radiator fans plugged into CPU_FAN I had full 0-100% control. In my Chassis Fan headers, which are "fake" PWM headers I get 30/40-100% control depending on the fan being used. I have yet to try the Fan Hub's 4-pin into a Chassis Fan header, I will try that when I am done typing this.

That is not my complaint though. My complaint is that all of my fans that are connected to the Fan Hub are not staying at the constant speed that I set. They seem to be fluttering at +- 200rpm. I will set the RPM to 1,000 but the fans that are connected to the fan hub seem to be bouncing up and down. It will go up to 1,200 for a second and then back down to 1,000. I can tell this because Fan Xpert II and HWiNFO gives me real time info on the fan speed, and because I can hear the noise when the fan is constantly going up and down in speed. At least they don't go below what I have set, but I really don't like the constant noise of the fans ramping up and down. I run all of my fans through Asus Fan Xpert II, and I prefer RPM mode. I tried Smart Mode, but the problem persists.

The instructions were not crystal clear, so I tried plugging in the SATA Power connector in addition to it already being plugged into the CPU_FAN header, they were both plugged in. When I did that, the controllable range was like 90-100% RPM. So that is a no go, and the same problem continues of the fans going up and down in speed.

Any idea what I can do about this constant up and down in fan speed? I want to attach my AIO's Pump header onto the fan hub, so that I can free up a chassis fan header, but I don't think the constant up-down is good for a pump.

Another question I have is regarding the 140mm included Phanteks Fan. My fan blade piece seems to be jockeying back and forth within its frame, it looks like it is about to fall out and doesn't appear to have the most "even" of spins. I have never used a Phanteks Fan before, is this how they are designed to run? I have a lot of different fans, from different companies and with different prices, I have never seen a fan do this. Could someone please confirm that this is how they are supposed to run? Or do I have a damaged fan from the toolbox coming loose?

Without the power Molex and IF true PWM header you are running all fans from the MB header... not the best of ideas.

Control 30% -100 %
Yes, that is normal, INTEL says so, Minimum PWM is 30% , otherwise it is considered an error condition (eg stall or no fan present)

Some fluctuation is normal..
Either the system is reacting to changing conditions in the case (eg PSU/GPU fan ramps up)
or by some "rounding errors" in the RPM interpretation
or by insufficient signal/power on the MB header... eg too many fans and/or load exceeds 1/2Amp - this will kill the MB in the long run
or... Fan control applications (eg speed fan FAnXpert) are fighting to wrestle fan control away from ASUS "Smart Fan"

In this case, I blame SmartFan being too smart for its own good and trying to work out min-max/ramp on its own.. tell it to comply with your commands. You dont need any extra fan control software.. either the BIOS handles it or not.

If fans go to 100% when pluggin in the power molex, you are not using PWM mode on the MB header
I you dont use smart mode, but RPM you are Voltage controlling



Any idea what I can do about this constant up and down in fan speed?
A capacitor inline to "buffer" to voltage change maybe?
OR you can set the curve point differently iso of <45°C run at 30% , set to <45°C run at 35% or 40%



The fan "wobble" is caused by the "Floating" bearing design. Its "very loose" on the axle. Its a sleeve bearing variant. Which means they should be operated vertically.. or.. as INTAKES when mounted to the roof of the case (and EXHAUST when mounted on the floor).
It "lifts" itself up a bit from the bearing when running. Which means there is an optimal "lift height"... factors like mounting upside down can affect this operation. ... Dont know how much impact on MTBF that has though.
Anyways, since these are Sleeve Bearing variants, the same rules as with other sleeve bearing variant apply... only mount them vertical if you want longlivity.

Fan HUB explained:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/official-case-phanteks-club-enthoo-primo-enthoo-luxe-enthoo-pro-lovers-owners/5100_100#post_22671592
post #5237 of 19369
Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

So this happened:

Unrelated note, I was going to use my nzxt sentry 2, however when I plugged it in a capacitor blew. Sounded literally like a gunshot.

were you not warned about the NZXT sentry (& matrix) tendency to do so?
post #5238 of 19369
Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

were you not warned about the NZXT sentry (& matrix) tendency to do so?

Honestly I didn't see any warning, but it's not a big deal. Scared the crap out of me though... Literally sounded like a gunshot. Never seen a capacitor blow before.
post #5239 of 19369
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by PinkoTheCommi View Post

I only tried Fan Xpert II.

It is strange because, on my CM 212 EVO and my CM Seidon 240M, when I had fans plugged directly into the CPU_FAN header, I had full range of control, 0-100%. I used a fan splitter on both of these coolers.

Not so strange. Then you were using direct control of your fans and with the Phanteks hub you are now using the PWM signal in from the mobo to control a P channel mosfet that modulates the +12V supply (cuts the power on/off really fast) to the 3-pin fan ports proportionally to the width of the PWM signal pulse to simulate the voltage going up/down. It's a bit of a hack how they did it (it's been tried before apparently), and it's not going to work as well as direct control would nor will it work so well with all fans. Some voltage-controlled fans don't like to be controlled by modulating the current (like a cheap fan controller typically does) and some fan manufacturers recommend against it. For example Nidec says that pwm modulation of 12v current to control fan speed can damage &/or shorten the life of a fan.

Anywho, that's partly why I didn't even try using the Phanteks hub myself, also because I have way too many fans for it I needed to control, and instead am using a good fan controller that automatically controls my fan speeds based on my loop temps.

I assume the phanteks fan hub just uses in a "more elegant" way a cap, a resistor and a transistor. A bit smarter & cleaner as this DIY project http://www.overclock.net/t/1505404/guide-convert-3-pin-fan-to-pwm-56k-warning-courtesy-of-lazzer408/0_100
post #5240 of 19369
Quote:
Originally Posted by bond32 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RnRollie View Post

were you not warned about the NZXT sentry (& matrix) tendency to do so?

Honestly I didn't see any warning, but it's not a big deal. Scared the crap out of me though... Literally sounded like a gunshot. Never seen a capacitor blow before.

I've seen plenty of caps go smile.gif
The one's to watch out for are the "big ones" in a dodgy (and old) PSU... literally ripped the enclosure apart...
if you're unlucky you can get decapitated.. B-movie style smile.gif


There have been reports before on the net about the nzxt fan controllers blowing up/melting/being a fire hazard... enough of them for me to remember.. and i go through LOTS of trivia daily smile.gif
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