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Radiator mounting confusion

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
I was just seeing if the Mosnta 120mm rad + Push/Pull 120mm fans in an FT02 fit in the exhaust spot, and it did [and only if one fan exhausts, push only => doesnt fit]. But the included screws are not wide enough to hold it in place - and the rad comes with only 1 set of the size I need for the proper fan mounting, the other is longer. Is this as simple as putting some washers on the longer screw, or do I need to find a screw that works properly and cut it?

Also, the included screws are very thin, so even the fan has wiggle room. I found some nice long screws and of course, the rad only accepts very thin ones. What the heck are these people thinking???

P.s. why do so many of these water cooling parts come with random f'n types of screws? Why no philips or flathead? Koolance is especially terrible in this regard, I couldnt believe the stupid shapes they were using without including a 10c screwdriver with it.

Even the radiator screws are Torx
Edited by Derpinheimer - 8/16/13 at 8:24pm
post #2 of 8
Well I don't feel your pain with the screw driver thing... it isn't like they sent you security torx smile.gif but even those wouldn't have been a problem. I do understand the frustration with the thread sizing. I use these well a different size for mine but those are for yours (M3).

If the radiator I buy doesn't have M3 or M4 I tap it out for M4.

As for the 2 different sizes of bolts that came with... I am guessing the longer ones are made for 38mm fans so yeh you would need some washers.

The nice thing about the 38mm koolance studs is they work fine on both sizes of fans.

Hope that helps...

Once you tighten those down and slide the fan on and push them through the chassis then you have nice looking round thumb screws that tighten them down... no tools needed once the posts are installed with pliers.


Edit

Actually those might not be the right product... let me try to find the right thing. That is what they look like but I don't know if those are the correct length or if they come with thumbscrews.
Edited by givmedew - 8/16/13 at 8:56pm
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post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Hi, thanks for the reply.

The Torx really doesnt bother me. But there is something else on the Koolance 452X2 Reservoir and I have no idea what it is. Some crazy star thing. Tried so many screwdrivers that looked similar and finally found one that worked, although was definitely not the right one.I just dont understand, why cant they use all Torx? Why switch it up? [Really, is there some benefit to it?]

That was my guess to for the screw length. Seems odd for them not to include a second 25mm set for a rad that is likely to be used in push pull. I couldnt find the studs you were talking about. Since I know nothing about this sort of stuff, I take it you mean a screw "thread only" [aka, no top, just the threaded part], then put it thru the fan and rad, and thumbscrew it from above? Thats a nice plan and cant be too hard. Any idea on whats up with the fan, though, and is there any way I can secure it? [They are Corsair SP120, so rubber mounted/open corners]

Edit: Think I found what you were talking about

http://koolance.com/radiator-mounting-screw-and-nut-38mm

Ill have to see if I cant find something else to do this for free.
Edited by Derpinheimer - 8/16/13 at 9:15pm
post #4 of 8
Yes that is what i am talking about but it is M4 and the threads on your radiator are M3 so don't buy those.

The crazy star thing on the reservoir? When people say star I think torx. Maybe you are mixing them up. Maybe the bolts that came with the radiator are allen key and the ones on the reservoir are torx. It is either that or the one that is on the reservoir is allen key. Typically g 1/4 plugs are thumb screw, flat head, or allen key. I have never seen a torx plug. Doesn't mean it doesn't exist but...

There are things that make torx beneficial over allen key but not for this application... but I don't know that either are torx... it sounds like both are allen key.

I'd need to see pictures. You can use a torx driver on an allen key bolt if it isn't torqued down to much.


Edit

You know what I googled that reservoir...

I can't see anything on that reservoir that you should be touching that isn't flat head or phillips screw driver. The other bolts look to be allen from the pictures but even if they are torx... a common reason for using torx is kind of like a STAY AWAY from me kind of thing. At least that is my opinion. Most people don't own torx and you will find either torx or security torx on things that manufactures don't want messed with. I am fairly certain koolance doesn't want you messing with those bolts.

Everything that is user servicable is phillips or flat head/thumb screw. Unless they replaced the bolts that hold down the pump with someone else than what is in the pictures.
Edited by givmedew - 8/16/13 at 9:53pm
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post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
I'm a real dope. The radiator has its threaded area for the screw to enter, then about 9mm of nothing, and then a 1mm protector plate to prevent you from screwing into the rad water lines. So, the short one reaches in only a small bit, leaving lots of clearance - perfect with a 25mm fan, and the long one leaves you enough for a 38mm fan, or in my case, enough for a washer and the case its being screwed into. Im certainly not fully aware of the reason for the different lengths, but it works for me in this way wink.gif. I had some plastic "washers" that werent a perfect fit, but held on very nicely. Dont trust them enough though. I had some other metal ones but they left very little space for the screw to enter the rad [and with how heavy it is, I'd prefer some extra. BTW, I should be able to use another washer on the bottom [where the 9mm of clearance is] for extra security, right?

I tried taking a picture of the screws but my phone camera sucks and I dont know where my real one is, but the Torx one is like 6 sides, and this one is.. more, really hard to tell. At least, I think.. Maybe its just really tiny and its a small sized Torx,but I had already tried some really small ones and only one of them just barely gripped it.
The screwdriver that got it to spin was a 12 sided star that said T9? Maybe that helps.


What these ones have under them is a plug that blocks water from entering the separate reservoirs (Serial vs Parallel).. but I wanted both to be used, so, its removable. The one in front that is regular torx lets you put in an acrylic piece that prevents water from entering the reservoir twice [however that works. I havent put it in yet, but its like a waterfall at high speeds, lots of sloshing. Maybe related]
post #6 of 8


Hex/Allen on top Torx on the bottom.

T9 is a torx but can be used on hex as long as the hex is not tightened very hard.
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post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 
Oh, ok, so the crazy thing on the bottom was Hex. Thanks wink.gif

Not sure if I should open a new thread for my new problem(s)

1. One of my new MCP655 PWM pumps stopped giving RPM signal
EDIT: BOTH stopped working?

2. I bought a Gelid 1->4 PWM Splitter, but it only functions [adjusts connected fans speeds] if connected in to CPU fan or CPU fan aux. However, if I put a 4 pin Intel fan into any of the 4 other slots (all 4 pin) its speed is adjustable.

Motherboard is P9X79 Pro, 1x CPU, 1xCPU Aux, 4x Chassis fan connectors.

I read some posts about this and it looks like they are 3 pin headers disguised as PWM headers? I plan on having 8 devices plugged into the mobo, and wasnt planning on none of the PWM signals being accepted..

It looks like I could have 2 pumps and 2 SP120 PWM fans plugged into 1 CPU fan header, and another PWM fan plugged into the Aux, which awesomely makes all of them run at the same %.. [The pumps make a terrible noise at high RPM]

2x PWM Pump
2x PWM SP120
3x 3 pin 180mm
1/2x PWM Intel Fan [For Mobo Heatsinks. Might get another for memory/VRM on GPU cooled by universal waterblock].

I reaallly want the pumps to be controlled separately from the other devices. Am I screwed?

The best I can think of is putting the pumps and the 1/2x GPU/VRM heatsinks on the CPU fan spots, then taking the 3 180mm and 3 120mm fans and putting them on the remaining 4. Will voltage control on a PWM fan be bad? I specifically bought the PWM ones thinking the 3 pin wouldnt work on the 4 pin headers.
EDIT: That wont work, the PWM fans arent controllable on the fake PWM fan headers, even directly connected. Only thing I can imagine is breaking off the 4th pin/PWM?



I think a fan controller might work for this, but having to turn the knobs manually when doing anything with the computer just seems stupid. Software control ones cost... way too much. And the ones with temp based control (That exists, right?) would require a temp sensor, and I havent a clue what I would base it off of - water temp?
Edited by Derpinheimer - 8/17/13 at 3:37pm
post #8 of 8
The PWM pumps must be controlled from a PWM header. The CPU header will be PWM others may not be PWM even if they have 4 pins. If you have a new gigabyte board you need to update the firmware as PWM is completely non functional on all headers including CPU and only the white CPU header is PWM on the new gigabyte boards.

What motherboard do you have.

Make sure one of the pumps is connected to the plug on the splitter that has all 4 wires attached to it. You can attach the fans to the splitter as well and they will go up and down with the PWM signal but you will only be able to monitor the RPM from one device on the PWM splitter which is the one with all 4 wires.

You are most likely best off controlling the pumps from the CPU header and everything else off of other headers.

Again what model motherboard and if it is gigabyte what bios version.
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