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post #31 of 38

Ph is the acidity of your liquid. Ph neutral is anywhere between 7-8, pure water is 6.3 ( very close to neutral). Most additives will increase the acidity of your liquid. Too high of an acidity and it will cause leeching on the metals, effectively increasing the rate of corrosion, and could potentially cause "Chemical weathering", which combined with mechanical weathering (i.e. flowing liquid rubbing against it) MIGHT cause those particles you have. That is assuming the Ph of your liquid is low.
Throw in a Ph test strip; you can find one at your local pool supply store, or any hardware store. They're nice to have for diagnosing corrosion issues, and definitely helpful when mixing coolants.

Note) To anyone reading this debating whether or not to get into custom liquid loops:
Don't let all this talk of Ph levels and mixing additives turn you away from it. It may all sound really complicated, but it's really simple once you get into it.
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post #32 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

Note) To anyone reading this debating whether or not to get into custom liquid loops:
Don't let all this talk of Ph levels and mixing additives turn you away from it. It may all sound really complicated, but it's really simple once you get into it.

I can verify this.

Also, I've had a kill coil in my loop for over a year now. Same water, not even topped off. 2 Drops of biocide way back when I set it up, none since.

My kill coil is no longer shiny, but definitely not visibly corroding like OP's. Must be something up with your water.
 
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post #33 of 38
Thread Starter 
so should i drain and refill agen? would it help if i get a different brand of distilled water?
post #34 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by space421 View Post

so should i drain and refill agen? would it help if i get a different brand of distilled water?


We need to know your Ph value first. thumb.gif
Again, you can find Ph test kits at any local hardware store, or pool supply store. They come with little yellowish strips and a little color coated chart. You dip the little paper-looking patch into your res, and pull it out after about two seconds and wait for it to change color. Then you match the color to the chart you got. From that you can determine your Ph.

If it's anywhere between 6-8 you should be good.

Don't bother draining your loop until you can determine if it is indeed an issue with your liquid. It could be a couple other things.

(Note: Instructions on your test kit may be different than what I told you. Follow them if this is the case.)
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post #35 of 38
Thread Starter 
ok ill look around for a Ph test strip :3
Edited by space421 - 8/26/13 at 12:33am
post #36 of 38
Thread Starter 
i am running biocide and a kill coil at the same time. could that be a problem?
post #37 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by space421 View Post

i am running biocide and a kill coil at the same time. could that be a problem?

Copper sulphate will decrease your Ph if I remember correctly. A really low Ph will lead to leaching, corroding the metal which could cause chemical weathering. Chemical weathering combined with an active fluid flow putting stress on it could lead to the odd particles you see here.


Of course this is all based on the assumption that your liquid is acidic, which we won't know until your Ph test is taken. I doubt just copper sulphate would cause that low of a Ph, but 'm not going to make any assumptions. Best get the Ph tested.
Edited by ZytheEKS - 8/26/13 at 1:50am
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post #38 of 38
Thread Starter 
Im gonna get it. Sorry its taking long there isn't a place close to my house i can walk to so i have to wait for my parents to drive me :\
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