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post #211 of 919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Germanian View Post

ENERMAX Maxrevo EMR1500EWT add please

rails 12v1, and 12v2 each have 12v x 20A = 240 Watt each Rail

rails 12v3, 12v4, 12v5 and 12v6 each have 12v x 30A = 360 Watt each Rail

Thanks for this. Are the pin-outs based on the connectors on the cable or on the PSU (I'm guessing PSU)? If it's the cable is it looking from the front or rear of the connector? (Never mind, found the answer with the image in the manual). In addition the 20 pin and 16 pin sockets combine both the 24 Pin and 8 Pin CPU/EPS connectors.

Adding the pin-out numbers from the 24 pin connector would be helpful.
Edited by Big Elf - 2/19/14 at 12:01pm
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post #212 of 919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

You're generally OK to do that i.e. match a 12V with a 12V, a 5V with a 5v, Ground with a Ground etc. However where there are dual wires on some of the pins you may need to follow the pin-outs as some of these dual wires are sensors. Whilst I'm not 100% sure about this I do recall at least one person commenting that the PSU wouldn't start up if the pin-outs weren't matched exactly (it's also possible they were wrong at the first attempt).

Thanks for the info. Lucky I only have 1 double wire to deal with and I am keeping that pin position stock. I'll probably be purchasing a psu tester to confirm the readings are exactly the same.
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post #213 of 919
I recommend the Thermaltake Dr Power II PSU tester. AFAIK it's the only one that will test the 8 pin PCI-E cables as well as the other main connectors.
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post #214 of 919
Does anyone have a pinout for the AX750 and AX 860? I've seen the one in the OP, but I can't understand it, the 24 pin doesn't seem to be on the 10/18 pin connectors. Does it use the same pinout as certain Seasonics?
post #215 of 919
Gonna try to make a pin-out for Seasonic X-1250, the one supplied here is incorrect and won't allow me to jump-start the PSU. I used the diagram here (and triple-checked my work) to "fix" my MODDIY 24-pin cable that already gave me fits, and it also did not allow the PSU to be jumped using the paper-clip method.

I bought a spare x-1250 cable kit from a Seasonic reseller, and checked their 24-pin wiring compared to the one in this thread, and it's different and the 24-pin I received from the reseller works properly when trying to jump the unit.


Edited by joesaiditstrue - 3/4/14 at 11:30pm
post #216 of 919
Quote:
Originally Posted by joesaiditstrue View Post

Gonna try to make a pin-out for Seasonic X-1250, the one supplied here is incorrect and won't allow me to jump-start the PSU. I used the diagram here (and triple-checked my work) to "fix" my MODDIY 24-pin cable that already gave me fits, and it also did not allow the PSU to be jumped using the paper-clip method.

I bought a spare x-1250 cable kit from a Seasonic reseller, and checked their 24-pin wiring compared to the one in this thread, and it's different and the 24-pin I received from the reseller works properly when trying to jump the unit.

Was that taking into account the note with the pin-out

'As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires

The dual Ground wires shown on Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector are optional. If you redo Pin 24 as a single Ground wire then leave Pin 7 on the 18 Pin Connector unused and move Pin 3 from the 24 Pin connector to Pin 6 on the 18 Pin Connector to match the latest revision. It's beneficial to leave Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector as a single wire to avoid splitting dual wires between the 18 pin and the 10 pin connector. If you find this confusing let me know and I'll do an additional image.'


I've tried to check your pin-outs although a little bit difficult as you've non-standard pin numbering and yours is based on looking at the connector from the front while mine is based on looking from the back and taking into account the above comment they match allowing for the fact that some of the same voltage (or ground) wires are transposed into the same voltage (or ground) wires e.g. 12V matches 12V, 5V matches 5V, Ground matches Ground, 3.3V matches 3.3V. I've also rechecked it to the official SeaSonic pin-out diagram so am a bit puzzled.

What pin-outs was the ModDIY cable using?
Edited by Big Elf - 3/5/14 at 1:24am
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post #217 of 919
yes I'm aware that the diagram here was with a rear view perspective, i took that into account when re-pinning the moddiy.

I don't remember what the original moddiy pin layout was but it was different from the one here

not sure what would have caused the issue, does my diagram have the exact same locations for double wires (on the 24pin side) as the diagram here? curious if any of the ground/3.3/5/12 wires are actually running into a "sensing" slot (you can tell which slots these are if you have an original seasonic cable, on the pins using split wires, follow the thinner wire to the 10 pin or 18 pin connector
post #218 of 919
At least one of each of the dual wires were in the same pin-out on each diagram except for the Ground on the original pin-out diagram. However if you followed the additional note about the optional Ground pin-out and replaced it in pin-out 6 on the 18 pin connector. There should be no reason why either yours or the SeaSonic pin-out should not work.

I'll create another diagram for the X-1250 which shows the alternative pin-outs but either of them should work and both have been tested on a P1000.

SeaSonic have standardised on their pin-outs for the models that use 18 Pin and 10 Pin connectors as well as the models that use 16 Pin and 10 Pin connectors.
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post #219 of 919
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Elf View Post

Was that taking into account the note with the pin-out

'As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires

The dual Ground wires shown on Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector are optional. If you redo Pin 24 as a single Ground wire then leave Pin 7 on the 18 Pin Connector unused and move Pin 3 from the 24 Pin connector to Pin 6 on the 18 Pin Connector to match the latest revision. It's beneficial to leave Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector as a single wire to avoid splitting dual wires between the 18 pin and the 10 pin connector. If you find this confusing let me know and I'll do an additional image.'


I've tried to check your pin-outs although a little bit difficult as you've non-standard pin numbering and yours is based on looking at the connector from the front while mine is based on looking from the back and taking into account the above comment they match allowing for the fact that some of the same voltage (or ground) wires are transposed into the same voltage (or ground) wires e.g. 12V matches 12V, 5V matches 5V, Ground matches Ground, 3.3V matches 3.3V. I've also rechecked it to the official SeaSonic pin-out diagram so am a bit puzzled.

What pin-outs was the ModDIY cable using?

I also did it the non standard way and thought I had posted it for other "backwards" people smile.gif like me .... I did it with a meter verifying each wore and did it by sticking the meter probes in the sockets with them facing me. In any case .... here's my CAD drawing is it helps anyone looking from the other side.

PSUCable.pdf 35k .pdf file
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post #220 of 919
Anyone sitting on a Corsair CS*M pin-out diagram? Can't seem to find anything about that psu. Made a few cables for a friend with a CS550M and I'm stuck until I can figure this out. The original cables are not within my reach.
Alternatively, is any of the other Corsair series similar to the CS*M in therms of pin-out?
Edited by Sadfez - 3/8/14 at 6:34pm
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