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PSA: check your loops! - Page 2

post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jach11 View Post

Jeez. That's why i always run distilled tongue.gif

Me too, but he liked the Aurora fluids. I guess it did a pretty good job, it did run for over a month presumably leaking like that.
post #12 of 19
This is why I run barbs with 1 size too small tubing thumb.gif

Disassembly of my loop requires cutting tubing off the barbs as its melted/shrunk/sealed on. Also requires no hose clamps or expensive fittings...
 
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post #13 of 19
Can you use plumber's putty or goop around the joints for some amount of leak protection? This sort of thing is why I'm somewhat unnerved by water cooling. Air does the job well enough (generally) and an air leak won't cost you hundreds or thousands of dollars.
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post #14 of 19
DELETE
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post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by jach11 View Post

I'd also like to add that people should check their fittings every month or so, just to make sure that they're always tight, because you don't want your tubing to slip off.

If it's the o-ring part that slips, there's a way to prevent that. Just twist the tubing counterclockwise (the end facing away) when pushing it in, guaranteed no slips (provided the tubing doesn't slip at all).
Quote:
Originally Posted by G3RG View Post

This is why I run barbs with 1 size too small tubing thumb.gif

Disassembly of my loop requires cutting tubing off the barbs as its melted/shrunk/sealed on. Also requires no hose clamps or expensive fittings...

If I remember correctly, there were a couple cases of the tubing-barb joint leaking in those cases, due to tubing wearing out and becoming too loose.
I've tried it before, after leaving tubing in barb for a month or two, the tubing becomes quite stretched out.
To be really safe, I always use worm drives with smaller tubing.
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post #16 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvlrdka22 View Post

If it's the o-ring part that slips, there's a way to prevent that. Just twist the tubing counterclockwise (the end facing away) when pushing it in, guaranteed no slips (provided the tubing doesn't slip at all).
If I remember correctly, there were a couple cases of the tubing-barb joint leaking in those cases, due to tubing wearing out and becoming too loose.
I've tried it before, after leaving tubing in barb for a month or two, the tubing becomes quite stretched out.
To be really safe, I always use worm drives with smaller tubing.

I'm using 3/8 tubing on 1/2" barbs, i had to melt the tubing to get it on. It's been on there for over a year without a single drop of water leaking out. I haven't even had to top off the res.
 
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post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpion49 View Post

Me too, but he liked the Aurora fluids. I guess it did a pretty good job, it did run for over a month presumably leaking like that.

WHOOAAA

He ran aurora for a month??? That stuff is supposed to be for like 3 days... wonder if the fluid failing had anything to do with it..
Quote:
Mayhems Aurora works best in duel pass rads and tube reservoirs. The more complex the loop the less time the liquid will work. Many uses do use the liquid for long term and the most we have tested it use for is 1 year. How ever in complex loops were people have totally ignored our warnings it might only last 24 hours or so.
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post #18 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickles View Post

WHOOAAA

He ran aurora for a month??? That stuff is supposed to be for like 3 days... wonder if the fluid failing had anything to do with it..

This puppy was folding CPU and 2 GPU's for about a year 24/7 before the leak happened. Fluid honestly looks like new, and there is no residue on any of the blocks.
post #19 of 19
This is the risk you take with water, no loop is 100% failure proof. All those parts dead make me sad frown.gif
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