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[Build Log] DCCC-4 - custom SLI watercooled, 3D printed parts. - Page 2

post #11 of 149
Thread Starter 
This is how far i have come for now. Have some more parts to be installed but waiting for one more package to arrive:)

Whats next?

- Install 140mm EK rad with Corsair AF140 fan in the back of the cabinet, i could have mounted a bigger rad in the bottom chamber but want to hold this open to secure airflow to the VGAs. I think a 140 and a 360 rad should be enough.

- Install a fan in the 5.25 bays.

- Install the EK-VGA block and glue heatsinks to VRM and VRAM.

- Decide loop order.

- Compare the EK UV-reactive coolant with Mayhems Pastel, the Mayhem should come today.


Long term plans:

- Exchange the tubing with rigid acrylic which will be heated and bent, dont wanna spend a fortune on fittings. To avoid the tubing transferring vibrations from the pump throughout the system, im planning to place Push-fit / Barbed or Push-fit / Compression connectors in the two holes in the mid-plate. This way the tubing will be hidden, only acrylic will be visible. I can also swing the pump out of the cabinet for draining the loop, no need for extra fittings/drainports.
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post #12 of 149
Thread Starter 
5.25" 120mm fan module

Corsair AF120 into the Lian-Li mount:





Installed:

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post #13 of 149
Thread Starter 
Installing 140mm radiator



The EK rad is going to be installed in the backside of the cabinet above the VGAs



The radiator almost fits, just need to grind down the two rivets (red) and make two cuts(blue:



The radiator now "clicks" into place due to the lip on the edge of the wall. Need to use some hand-strength to get it out, so its not going anywhere. The Sidewall still comes on easy even though its slightly bulging, not easily noticeable. I will probably move the fan to the outside of the cabinet, for looks.


Edited by Squashie - 8/31/13 at 4:23pm
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post #14 of 149
Thread Starter 
Installing the EK-VGA blocks and heatsinks

Taking apart the 670:





VRM heatsinks need to be cleaned and stripped of the pads:



One of them will be cut into four pieces to fit the VRMs on the right. There is a small raised component preventing me from using a full piece.





Arctic Silver Adhesive:



Funky stuff, mixed as little as possible each time, didnt dry to fast so i didnt need to hurry too much, you dont want this stuff all over your PCB wink.gif



VRM heatsinks in place:




VRAM heatsinks:



One of the VRAM heatsinks will be placed exactly under the outlet of the GPU-block and need to be modified:

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post #15 of 149
Thread Starter 
EK-Ekoolant UV Green vs. Mayhem Pastel Green

Trying to choose between those two coolants. The Mayhem looks best in natural light but not as vibrant green as this photo suggests:


Mayhem on the right

With UV lighting the EK was ofc. better:



In tubes:



I chose to fill with the EK one. Partly because i like the UV effect and partly because this was the previous coolant, and i need to figure how much i need to clean out the loop before filling with Mayhem. I still have two liter of the Mayhem so i can always change later.

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post #16 of 149
Thread Starter 
Filling the loop

I flipped by 360 around 180degrees, it would have been too tight fit to have it same way as before. Esthetically i would like the left tube coming out of the bottom to come up straight under the VGAs, but that would require me to fill the original hole and make a smooth finish, not easy, maybe later tongue.gif All the tubes are in, paper in place so here we go...



Half way through the filling i reach to the back of the cabinet to hit the powerswitch and feel a drop of water hit my hand, ohfcukohfcukohfcuk...
I turn of everything, drain the loop and start dismounting the 140 rad in the back. Luckily nothing was broken. It was my own fault though, i didnt tighten these two guys:



For some reason i took it for granted they were tightened from factory, wont make that mistake again:)

I put everything back together, fill the loop and go to bed. Next morning all the paper-towels are dry and im a happy gamer smile.gif))


Edited by Squashie - 9/1/13 at 4:51pm
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post #17 of 149
Thread Starter 
Bottom cover and VGA aircanal

Decided not to do any glowing pattern in the bottom cover plate. Put on some flat-black vinyl/foil:



I also put in the home made air canal (still looking for a better word for this creation):

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post #18 of 149
Good job mate.

Looks really nice biggrin.gif

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post #19 of 149
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SiberianGhost View Post

Good job mate.

Looks really nice biggrin.gif

Sent from my LG P700 with CM 10.1 using Tapatalk

Thanx m8 smile.gif
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post #20 of 149
Thread Starter 
Whats next?

I got new pieces to rebuild the bottom 140mmx140mm box of the air canal, first time i build it i used a not so good saw so i got too many chips in the cut. Im gonna move the 140rad fan to the outside of the cabinet/radiator, the rest of the inside looks clean, so think it will be better that way. I also got Green and UV cathodelights and some green LED and some white striplight, need to do some thinking on what way to go with these. Im sort of heading toward changing to the Mayhem pastel and only go with white light but well se.

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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Build Logs › [Build Log] DCCC-4 - custom SLI watercooled, 3D printed parts.