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OCN Painter's Club - Page 5

post #41 of 171
Wet sand with a block into the paint, not all the way to the metal surface. The use of the block will take down all the high spots in the paint.
post #42 of 171
Lotsa good stuff in this here thread for those who want to learn. Anyhoo as far as painting small pieces like the chromed brackets can I just use matte black spray paint or do those need to be primed etc?

Also is there a possibility of color matching the flat black and red Asus uses on their Direct Cu II video cards or even a gunmetal color kinda like these brackets XFX uses on their graphics cards

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150686
or this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150661

using this paint or something similar
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Polycarbonate-PS-23-Gun-Metal-Spray-Paint-86023-/190833621874?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item2c6e91fb72
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post #43 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by diggiddi View Post

Lotsa good stuff in this here thread for those who want to learn. Anyhoo as far as painting small pieces like the chromed brackets can I just use matte black spray paint or do those need to be primed etc?

Also is there a possibility of color matching the flat black and red Asus uses on their Direct Cu II video cards or even a gunmetal color kinda like these brackets XFX uses on their graphics cards

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150686
or this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150661

using this paint or something similar
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-Polycarbonate-PS-23-Gun-Metal-Spray-Paint-86023-/190833621874?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item2c6e91fb72
While matching the asus colors is not hard at all really i would not recommend using polycarbonate paint. i would recommend a nice high quality enamel or a polyurethane. the reason being that is the polycarbonate is a good paint if on metal only. a lot of today's cases have a ton of plastic, and polycarbonate must be really dry, like 7 days dry time before it is near plastic, even then it can be risky having it against plastic because it will not completely cure for almost a month.


A good enamel or polyurethane will be fine in 2 days at a normal room temp drying. totally solid and cured in about a week. the finish will look much better and it is easier to apply and has less issues with rejection from some bases like some metals or plastics. you can get the gun metal gray from most automotive stores that sell touch up paint. if painting over chrome i warn you now, use a 600 grit or higher sand paper to smooth it and scratch the surface, and use thinner, naphtha or alcohol to clean it really well before applying a primer. then lightly sand it and clean with naphtha or a light soap and water mix lightly before applying your color.

apply your color in light smooth coats, i would do 3 coats if it is a metallic spray or two if it is not. the 3rd should be a dust coat while the paint is still kind of wet to even out the metallic. to do a dust coat you hold the can a little farther away and quickly move the can by what ever you are spraying so it don't build up more paint but rather dust's it.
post #44 of 171
Fryer thx for your quick response +rep btw, how would I go about matching the paint and which enamel or polyurethane would you recommend
thx for advice on technique much appreciated
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post #45 of 171
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by diggiddi View Post

how would I go about matching the paint and which enamel or polyurethane would you recommend
thx for advice on technique much appreciated
well for matching i would take something with the colors with me, even if it is a peace of a box with the logo or color and use it to match the color to the color of the cap on the can, if you have nothing like that find someone with a laser printer and have them print a logo or something out, or you could put a Picture of it on a usb drive or disc and bring it to walmart and have them make a small picture for you. normally i would suggest using Krylon as they have a vast amount of colors, or if you go to a parts store i would day duplicolor. i prefer the duplicolor as most of the cans have a fan spray style tip on it instead of the small circle/dot style that krylon has. i love the finish i get when using duplicolor as it is close to using a professional spray gun and will in general come out smoother. only problem is finding the color can be harder.

krylon is normally a polyurethane paint, as duplicolor can be found in both. polyurethane will have a good finish, and decent hold and resistance to chipping and flakeing off as it is a softer paint. enamel on the other hand you have to take your time with, and it will produce a decent finish, not as good but is harder, it is more resistant to scratch's and dings though.
post #46 of 171
Thread Starter 
i forgot to add the red you are looking for i think is called apple red. it looks best in gloss apple red though.
post #47 of 171
Alright then thanks once again
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post #48 of 171
Any tips on spray painting in COLD weather? I live in an apartment where space is an issue and I usually use the back porch for this, but with winter starting its approach really fast it's getting less and less likely to see days above 30 degrees F. I can't spray anywhere inside as the paint fumes will linger for a while.
post #49 of 171
Thread Starter 
honestly if you do not have access to a vented/heated area like an actual paint booth i would not recommend painting. even with my retarder i can not spray below 50*F. however i luck out and have a good heater in the shop to keep it above that most of the time. you can paint when it is colder but it can be a failure. the paint will be to cold and will not always smooth out good before it flash's. leaves a dry spray effect sometimes. and for clear i would not do it at all below 60*F. it will not properly cure for days and can cause many of issues that will make any paint job look horrid.

just how big of stuff are you wanting to spray?
post #50 of 171
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fryer View Post

honestly if you do not have access to a vented/heated area like an actual paint booth i would not recommend painting. even with my retarder i can not spray below 50*F. however i luck out and have a good heater in the shop to keep it above that most of the time. you can paint when it is colder but it can be a failure. the paint will be to cold and will not always smooth out good before it flash's. leaves a dry spray effect sometimes. and for clear i would not do it at all below 60*F. it will not properly cure for days and can cause many of issues that will make any paint job look horrid.

just how big of stuff are you wanting to spray?

It's mostly the top and bottom handles of the Prodigy case here: http://www.legitreviews.com/images/reviews/1986/bitfenix-prodigy-mitx-1.jpg

They are made of semi flexible plastic. Later on I plan to make a custom front panel and paint it the same color. I saw another OCN modder use Montana Gold on them and had great results with it.

I'll ask a friend if his basement can provide enough room and heating. He lives in an apartment building which his family rents out to other people.
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