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Krow's TEC Controller - Build Log - Page 7

post #61 of 116
Thread Starter 
If you agitate it goes faster. That pretty much my mixture. For this one I had my GF rock it back and forth for 20 mins when I went out to go get food and it was done by the time I got back. Getting the bits of plastic photo paper off the board with fine tipped tweezers is horribly slow, especially when the paper didn't soak all the way through because you kept too much copper masked off.
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post #62 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krow View Post

Here we go! Prototype is entirely complete aside from attaching a header to connect the controller to the driver board. But it's finally complete.

Coolest thing in the world... Liquid Tin. It's like magic or alchemy lol



I will be back to answer ALL questions that were raised over the last week. Just gotta go for a food run.

12 Mosfets thumb.gif
Now the test result !
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post #63 of 116
Wait, where's the gate on those mosfets, under them?
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post #64 of 116
Thread Starter 
1 Pin dedicated to Gate
3 Pins dedicated to Source
4 Pins dedicated to Drain
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post #65 of 116
Can't wait to see a finished product.

I need to replace my bit-chill controller on my block since it doesn't let me set below 0c. Normally you can't set it below ambient, but I rigged in a switch to the ambient sensor to trick it into allowing down to 0c manual control, but still can't force it to go below that frown.gif. For nice full load temps I need the cold plate to be sub zero since IB has such a high IHS:coretemp discrepancy.
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post #66 of 116
Thread Starter 
HA! so here's something just found out. Since I designed the controller as ALWAYS ON when the controller isn't hooked up (as if it gets unplugged or something) the logic is reversed. 100% means 0% and the opposite is true. I can either try redesigning, or work the code in reverse, which might be easier. Not sure.
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post #67 of 116
Thread Starter 
Well everyone, it looks I will be building a new Controller board. I managed to rip out almost all the traces for the LCD screen because I was trying to fixed a solder joint. Oh well, time to optimize the design a bit more. Anyone know if a radial arm saw is OK to use to cut PCB or is that too aggressive? Cutting it is the hardest part at the moment.
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post #68 of 116
Sounds like your missing the pull down resistor to me or its WAY to high. That was the problem i found. People going on about 10k or 2k but actually it needed 220 ohms
post #69 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krow View Post

I am using the Toner Transfer method using Photo Paper. It works, but the problems I have are that it loves to really hold on to the toner once it's transferred it. Peeling it off is a pain in the ass. When I started using this paper it turned out to be waterproof, which royally sucked the big one when trying to peel it because it was like separating plastic layers. I solved that by ironing on a regular piece of paper so the back plastic layer glued itself to that and was easier to separate.

I've found it to be wildly inferior to using an exposure mask. I suggest you try that method, as I said, you can produce 0.25mm (10 mil) tracks with an amazing consistency. Since I tried using a mask and directly exposing the board instead of going with the photo transfer method, I've never looked back.

The toner transfer method takes a long time and is very sensitive to the paper you use and how you peel the paper. The exposure method is immune to that, the quality of your boards only depends on the opacity of the masks. And since I've found I can use tracing paper... I don't even bother to get them printed anymore. Inkjet with ink weight set to Heaviest, do a small printing first so the heads clean up, and done with it. Side note: You can also reuse the transparencies, and if you get them laser printed on acetate (make sure they use the heaviest option available) you can reuse them basically forever.

Also, I see you're using SOIC MOSFETs. Why not use packages with larger heat transfer capacity? D-PAK (TO252) comes to mind. Large legs, and you can solder them to a common power plane for maximum current capacity, as well as using that pad as a heatsink. Soldering it gets a bit tricky if your iron is small though (less than 35W).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thermo Electric View Post

Sounds like your missing the pull down resistor to me or its WAY to high. That was the problem i found. People going on about 10k or 2k but actually it needed 220 ohms

With 3A drivers capable of doing full bridge or half-bridge obtainable at less than 30 cents a piece, I find it silly to even consider going driverless for an application with such power, by the way.


Krow, should you require help with the power side, I will glady help you smile.gif

And yes, cutting the boards with a table saw is fine. Just make sure the teeth hits the copper from above, else you'll just rip it away. Keep in mind that FR boards severely wear down HSS blades though. After all it's glass what you're cutting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krow View Post

HA! so here's something just found out. Since I designed the controller as ALWAYS ON when the controller isn't hooked up (as if it gets unplugged or something) the logic is reversed. 100% means 0% and the opposite is true. I can either try redesigning, or work the code in reverse, which might be easier. Not sure.

A MOSFET gate that's left floating will almost always end up making the D-S junction go into conduction state if there's power present across it.
Edited by Artikbot - 3/31/14 at 5:03am
   
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post #70 of 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artikbot View Post




With 3A drivers capable of doing full bridge or half-bridge obtainable at less than 30 cents a piece, I find it silly to even consider going driverless for an application with such power, by the way.



.

um no i suggesting

A he MAY need a pull down resistor of the correct ohms to ensure the gates are closed by default not open. Obviously the picture doesn't show all the components on the board but there doesn't appear to be a pull down resistor. Im also not sure if this is arduino based like my one but my one certainly needed the resistor to ensure the gates were properly closed when switching. Without it it lead to over heating of the mosfets
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