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Can this be algae? Do I really have to strip down my PC? - Page 6

post #51 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

I don't what point you are trying to get at.

What brand coolant do you use? You know very little about automotive coolant as you said "I've yet to see one" that has anything suspended in it.

Silicate suspension is in some automotive coolants except in countries that have banned it's use due to issues it can cause.

You say "I have spent 25 years working on automobiles" great, awesome, amazing... Regardless I didn't say I am worried about my animals drinking EG. It is obviously an issue for some people though and some people do steer away from it because of this. Mayhems went through the trouble of resolving that issue for those people.

What I posted was in order to try to help people... what you are posting is just trying to discredit me... and you are doing it by quoting yourself and not citing sources. So please if I say something incorrect I have no problem admitting that if you have some proof.

Again with your lack of knowledge and lack of citing... food coloring is a perfectly acceptable way to color water in a loop. It does not cause a mess nor does it stain things any more than any other PC coolant with dye would and it stains a lot less than most anyways. For systems I have used food coloring in you are looking at 1 or 2 flushes before the flushed water is perfectly clear.

Anyways what brand of coolant do you use... because if there is an affordable coolant that they sell at the automotive store that has no additive packages I would like to know since it might be a good source of PC coolant... I would never use it in my car though. Also DEG is not usually (usually as in sometime it is added) an actual "ingredient" per se. It is just a by product that is in EG. So you are basically saying you have coolant that is nearly all water and EG. Which I doubt...

Thanks

I'm not trying to discredit you, I'm trying to correct misinformation that you are spreading. I couldn't care less how much you think you know or if you can prove anything. You honestly consider posting links to Wikipedia citing something credible? Interesting.

I've been watercooling my PC for 5 years now and have yet to spill a single drop of coolant. Not really much cause for concern there.

Just FYI, the cheapest automotive coolant you can buy is usually the least complicated in terms of chemistry. The coolant I referred to is called ProLine, and it's the cheapest stuff they have at Autozone stores. I just checked a gallon of Prestone that I have as well, and it doesn't have any silicates or particulates of any kind in it either.

Now, keep in mind that I'm referring to the normal green colored coolant, I'm not even looking at the newer orange colored coolant.

I use 10% automotive coolant and 90% distilled water in my loop. No other additives, no kill coil. I only use coolant for it's anti-corrosion properties. For the record, I'm not worried about what color it is, so that isn't a factor for me.
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post #52 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post


The bottom line is that Automotive Coolant is just that. It is for autos and has an additive package in it designed to do certain things in an environment that is completely different to the one that we see. In an auto the water will be touching things of such extreme temperatures that if it was just EG and Water there would be problems. Additives to reduce foaming are necessary as well.

Automotive anti-freeze is used to lower the freezing temperature of water, WE all know this. But it has to be pressurized. Did you know that with even just straight up water, if you pressurize it you will also raise the boiling temperature? That is another benefit from the anti-freeze it raises the boiling point of water and under pressure it is able to work with the extreme temps found in an auto cooling sys. Not to mention the corrosion inhibition. Just wanted to FYI that for some reason.
Quote:
Originally Posted by retropcdos View Post

Been building water-cooled systems for years. You will get different results from user to user it's not uncommon. Their just so many factors to consider, reason why you have to do your homework. One example depends on the tubing being anti-microbial and silver normally in those case will work fine. I wouldn't trust the tubing alone to kill everything in the water, so then most would just add a silver kill coil, has to be in good flow path to be affective and you have to have a decent flow rate. Also would make sure you have a filter install in path as the particles from the coil as it break down overtime can get caught in the pump. Reason why I don't like silver kill coils, unless you have excellence flow rate to began with, to use a filter and replace kill coil every 6 months.

This is absolutely not true, silver does not break down let alone into "particles". The following is a quote from this SOURCE

Chemically, silver is not very reactive—it does not react with oxygen or water at ordinary temperatures, so does not easily form a silver oxide. However, it is attacked by common components of atmospheric pollution: silver sulfide slowly appears as a black tarnish during exposure to airborne compounds of sulfur (byproducts of the burning of fossil fuels and some industrial processes), and low level ozone reacts to form silver oxide.[16] As the purity of the silver decreases, the problem of corrosion or tarnishing increases because other metals in the alloy, usually copper, may react with oxygen in the air.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post


I guess I'm now leaning towards using distilled + PT-Nuke instead of a silver coil, but I have to say I'm still really uncertain what's going to be best for my build.

Use PHN nuke if you go that route, OR only use silver if you go that route. Use one or the other, but not both.
If you want to do more research this has alot of good information along with the stickies up at the top of the subforums here as well.
post #53 of 56
What do most people do with old coolant?

They tip it down the sink.

This is how poisons get into the watertable and destroy wildlife,just because its not happening outside your door doesn't mean its not happening.

DI water and 2 drops of Nuke is all you need.
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post #54 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by givmedew View Post

You can use backing soda it is completely safe. Or you can run hot water at a high pressure from a faucet like I was saying. You can do this for as long as you want. I believe martinsliquidlab.org is where I got the idea to use the faucet.

Again I have to say that just because you have a loop that you put silver kill coil in and then no algae grows that doesn't mean ANYTHING nothing at all. I can run distilled water with no additives for a year with no algae build up... why do you think if I have a kill coil present that it proves the kill coil to work?

It doesn't prove anything... algae appearing would prove it not to work.

Proving it to work would be something like taking pond water letting it grow in a container for a while then adding it to your loop with a silver kill coil and see what happens LOL! If it kills everything then fine it works! I have seen no such study though so stop saying it is effective.

This is just my opinion but this is what I think...

To be effective the silver kill coil must cause silver oxide to be present in the loop. If silver oxide is present I believe that you are going to have silver oxide staining/damage on your blocks. If whatever causes this effect doesn't happen and the silver kill coil looks brand new then personally I highly doubt that silver kill coil has done anything. Water flowing over the coil is not how the coil kills algae. The kill coils that worked are the ones that look like crap when you pull them out... but those are the same ones that damage loops.

Please stop saying that they are effective just because you had no algae... because I have ran loops for extended period of time with just distilled water and NO algae growth. In fact I have never seen algae in ANY of my builds. I think it has to do partially with prep work but either way the use of CuSO4 is proven since it is used in the same way as it is intended.

Silver when used as a biocide is usually silver suspension or nanosilver suspension. Sticking a silver kill coil in a loop isn't going to result in the same thing as pouring nanosilver into the loop and it seems that when there is the scenario for the silver kill coil to produce silver oxide in the loop that it also stains the heck our of blocks and creates other issues.

Why take the chance when we know CuSO4 works as well or better and it closer to Nickel than silver and is safe with copper? Further more why take the chance with either when we know that PHN works and it not related to a metal and we know that Ethylene Glycol works and it actually inhibits corrosion.

Lastly like I said plenty of people run distilled water only loops with no algae growth... drops a few drops of PHN in for good measure if you want.

I won't touch another kill coil... I have seen first hand what they can do. I am very careful about the use of PTNuke CuSO4 and highly recommend the use of Ethylene Glycol or PHN. Anyone worried about the toxicity of Ethylene Glycol can purchase Mayhems XT-1 Concentrate which has something added to it that stops it from being metabolized and therefore makes it no longer lethal.

Silver actually dissolve into water... Negatively charged silver atoms (ion) kills any form of micro-organism.

It's effective not because I say so but because it is scientifically proven being an effective biocide. Silver takes time to dissolve into the water and it won't dissolve well if it's not in front of your pump inlet.
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post #55 of 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by B NEGATIVE View Post

What do most people do with old coolant?

They tip it down the sink.

This is how poisons get into the watertable and destroy wildlife,just because its not happening outside your door doesn't mean its not happening.

DI water and 2 drops of Nuke is all you need.

A long, irritating, FUD-filled thread... and the only posts that have truly useful information come from B-Neg... (OK maybe not the only ones - but really close).

I would add: SKC is fine if you're going for the '100% non-toxic to anything but microbials' route - but if you really want me to drink my DI + 2 drops Nuke solution... I will and not lose a minute of sleep over it. Have you ever been in a swimming pool and accidentally swallowed a mouthful of water? You probably got more copper sulfate (in addition to chlorine which is even more toxic) in that one swallow than you would drinking my whole loop's volume.

Using either an SKC or Nuke should be more than enough - but if you want to be extra safe, throw some UV lighting into your rig. It looks cool and also works as an anti-microbial. biggrin.gif

If you bought a bunch of parts that should never be in the same loop together anyway (i.e. copper and aluminum) - then I would actually recommend using EG to try to give you a prayer of keeping corrosion at bay. OK, actually I would recommend you do your research and not build a loop that is a corrosion time-bomb... but my point is that's the only loop that using any significant amount of EG in the coolant makes any real sense.

After all, if you have an all copper/nickel/brass loop.... by the time you have enough corrosion for that to be of primary concern to you... a bigger concern should be that you're still running 10 year old hardware and can't play a decent game any longer. biggrin.gif
post #56 of 56
So long as you can still use Ctr Alt Del, then you know that the Alge has not affected Windows. Further more,if you stick with toxic free water in your res then you could always plonk a couple of aquarium suckerfish to live in your PC's reservoir to live off that wonderful BS.
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