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Doing maintenance, have a couple questions

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
So I've got my laptop cracked open and spread out on the kitchen table. My goal for today is to increase airflow and replace the thermal paste with Arctic Silver, something I fortunately do not need help with. A couple simple questions:

My battery life with the stock Turion II P540 (Athlon II based CPU) is around 2:00-2:30 when mostly idling and under an hour under load, meaning I'll be plugged in if playing games or trying to render something but won't be affected if unplugged (plus I can limit CPU usage to 75% on battery). Would it be worth it to upgrade to a Turion II N570 or N550? They have a TDP rating of 35W instead of the stock 25W and are 2.7 and 2.6GHz, GHz, respectively, over the stock 2.4GHz. If yes, then does anybody know of a place where it won't cost $100 (that's SSD money I'd be wasting!) to do so?

EDIT: Okay, I did a bit more research on socket S1G4, and found that I can support, with the same TDP, a 2GHz tri-core Phenom II P860 or a 1.8GHz quad-core Phenom II P960. I don't want to push the heat too much until I can get some numbers on what I've got.

Second, there is a sheet of something that looks a bit like plastic wrap almost on the top side of the motherboard. It's covered in dust and I think it might be charged somewhat to draw dust particles away from the motherboard or perhaps to absorb ESD. It's really dirty and touching in some places. Does this have a use or should I take it off?
Edited by CynicalUnicorn - 9/29/13 at 2:26pm
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post #2 of 4
I would highly advise against arctic silver 5. It's the apparent go-to TIM, but there are much better choices out there. GC Xtreme is one such choice.

I would first see if your laptop can actually cool the newer chip that you're looking at. Then I would check and see if there are any decent performance increases.

As for that plastic piece, it's nothing to be alarmed about. I removed the ones on my machine. They don't really DO anything. tongue.gif
     
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post #3 of 4
If your model notebook comes in faster speed models, you can usually easily fit that cooling system into your notebook.

This is not ALWAYS the case though, but it is generally a good idea to make sure your notebooks system can handle the heat.
post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imglidinhere View Post

I would highly advise against arctic silver 5. It's the apparent go-to TIM, but there are much better choices out there. GC Xtreme is one such choice.

I would first see if your laptop can actually cool the newer chip that you're looking at. Then I would check and see if there are any decent performance increases.

As for that plastic piece, it's nothing to be alarmed about. I removed the ones on my machine. They don't really DO anything. tongue.gif

I've already got Arctic Silver, so that's what I'm using. It, applied conservatively, in addition to a mostly-exposed radiator and larger intake vents has cooled it off by 5 or 8 degrees. I can probably drill some small holes in the bottom panels. You know, for airflow.

I figured out what plastic was for as I was reassembling: there is a thin metal sheet on the entire bottom of the top panel that makes contact only with the standoffs, since there are holes in the plastic there. If I were to remove that, then pressing too hard on the keyboard could potentially cause a short. It hasn't melted, so I'll leave it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xinoxide View Post

If your model notebook comes in faster speed models, you can usually easily fit that cooling system into your notebook.

This is not ALWAYS the case though, but it is generally a good idea to make sure your notebooks system can handle the heat.

I just checked, and there is another L655D (model -S5164RD) with presumably the same motherboard (it has the same GPU) and a 1.6GHz 25W Phenom II x4. I assume it's the same cooler too given the number of L655 models Toshiba made. Assuming Turion IIs and Phenom IIs are the same architecture, it should output 33% more heat (%clockspeed * %cores = 66.666...% * 200% = 133.333...%). Given that I could hit 70 degrees under extended maximum load, i.e. Prime95, with the stock thermal paste (heavy loads, e.g. games, typically stopped at 65 or so), I would rather have something I can trust not to melt important things, therefore an "N" model quad-core is out of the question. And if worst comes to worst, I can try and electroplate the heatsink with silver.

I decided I'd go with a Phenom II x3 N830. It's the entry-level tri-core "N" CPU ("P" indicates power savings, is 25W, and supports DDR3-1066, while "N" is 35W, intended for performance, and supports the DDR3-1333 I have. This is true for mobile Turion IIs, Athlon IIs, and Phenom IIs.) which should be the best compromise between heat and performance. Price isn't an issue; they're under $20.

Check post #46 and onwards here for a bit more detail.
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Triumvirate
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Osmium
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RAMRAMHard DriveHard Drive
Kingston Blu Red - 2x4GB ADATA XPG - 2x4GB Crucial M500 960GB Samsung 840 250GB 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
WD Scorpio Blue 1TB Cooler Master 212+ PNY Quadro 600 blower Corsair H55 + Kraken G10 
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Windows 10 Pro ASUS VE247H - 1080p Gateway FPD1960 - 1280x1024 Rosewill RK9000I - Cherry MX Blue 
PowerCaseMouseOther
Rosewill HIVE 650W Fractal Design Arc Mini R2 Razer DeathAdder 2013 CyberPower 1500PFCLCD 
CPUMotherboardRAMHard Drive
AMD A10-7870K ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+ G.Skill Ripjaws X - 2x4GB @ 2400MT/s Samsung 840 120GB 
CoolingOSPowerCase
Evercool EC-HPS-810CP Windows 7 Pro 64-bit PicoPSU-120-WI-25 Mini-Box M350 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i3-4005U OEM Intel HD 4200 4GB DDR3 (soldered) 
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