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Help! My Fittings are Leaking - Page 2

post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester View Post

Just going off your supplied picture, none of the compression caps seem to be screwed all the way down thinking.gif

They're fine. I've never seen a compression fitting able to go all the way down to the base. All my bitspowers have a few mm of clearance. Otherwise it would cut the tubing. My thought is that despite a claimed compatible tubing size, in reality it's not quite exactly right. I've never had a compression fitting leak ever from the compression sleeve threading. It's always the bloody stupid rotary joints that give out.biggrin.gif (Hi Bitspower)
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post #12 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfiwhiteguy View Post

They're fine. I've never seen a compression fitting able to go all the way down to the base. All my bitspowers have a few mm of clearance. Otherwise it would cut the tubing. My thought is that despite a claimed compatible tubing size, in reality it's not quite exactly right. I've never had a compression fitting leak ever from the compression sleeve threading. It's always the bloody stupid rotary joints that give out.biggrin.gif (Hi Bitspower)

Yes, i know that and you know that but his original post says
Quote:
Please keep in mind, the compression caps are screwed all of the way down.

Yet his pictures suggest NOT wink.gif

What i was trying to say was when he says his compression caps are screwed all of the way down.............does he mean that they are screwed all the way metal to metal or just as far as he can tighten by hand because the pictures clearly show they are not metal to metal so obviously something is stopping them doing so, namely the hose thumb.gif

Maybe they just need tightening down a little more though the way i see the hose in those pictures, its just not coming out of the fitting at a 90 degree angle which would suggest something either isn't tightened down correct or maybe the wrong size hose is being used thinking.gif
post #13 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by coolmiester View Post

Yes, i know that and you know that but his original post says
Yet his pictures suggest NOT wink.gif

What i was trying to say was when he says his compression caps are screwed all of the way down.............does he mean that they are screwed all the way metal to metal or just as far as he can tighten by hand because the pictures clearly show they are not metal to metal so obviously something is stopping them doing so, namely the hose thumb.gif

Maybe they just need tightening down a little more though the way i see the hose in those pictures, its just not coming out of the fitting at a 90 degree angle which would suggest something either isn't tightened down correct or maybe the wrong size hose is being used thinking.gif

Yeah true. But we also both know that the seal should be 99% tight enough without the compression sleeve even on it, that's really just there to keep it in place. If they leak at all, even with the tubing on the bare barb without the compression sleeve, I'm sure the tubing is not the right diametre. The fit should be almost finger-cripplingly tight at first connect in my experience, once you've done 6 or 7 one after the other. I almost needed physiotherapy after doing 22 in one day. Hahaha.
Edited by lowfiwhiteguy - 10/1/13 at 3:48pm
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post #14 of 15
Thread Starter 
First, thank you to everyone that has replied to my request for help. Since I am brand new to water cooling equipment and fittings, all your input is great.

To answer the first question, please let me clarify. The picture that I took was before the second water leaks. So, the fittings are screwed down as tightly as I can by hand, because everything that I have read so far says that I should not have to use tools to tighten them down. After the second water leaks, (Iused a tool) and I screwed all of the fittings down to the metal on metal, and three hours later it started leaking again. So, this brings me to another question. Is it normal to use a wrench and crank these compression caps down to metal on metal or no?

On the second question, I have measured the Tygon hose and it is spot on. The inner diameter is 1/2 inch and the outer diameter is 3/4 inch.

Investigating the EK compression fittings closely. I see several things that I do not like.

1.) The nickel EK fittings are slick as glass due to the polished nickel, so it is easy for the Tygon hose to slip around.
2.) The barb is very small (more like a bump) and it does not have a sharp edge on the back of it to secure the hose.
3.) The fitting's outer diameter is 1/2 inch. I would expect it to have a outer diameter bigger than the Tygon hose inner diameter.

So, this just opens up a lot more questions.

1.) Should the fitting be slightly bigger than the inner diameter of the hose or would that cause the hose to crack?
2.) Everything that I am reading says that once the hose is on the fitting is has to be cut off. Is this correct?
3.) Should I return the EK fitting or buy a smaller diameter hose? Right now the Tygon hose is cut to specifications.
4.) Do you have any recommended compression fittings?

Luxxor
post #15 of 15
1) The inner diameter of the tubing and the shaft of the barb on the compression fitting should be exactly the same. The flange on the barb holds it secure, and the tubing itself stretches just a bit to accomodate it.

You can see that the tubing just SLIGHTLY flares out where it comes off the compression fitting. That's a proper fit.

2) I don't know what they mean by "once on the fitting it must be cut off". Cut your tubing so that it's at 90 degrees, nice and flat, and goes down the shaft all the way to the base of the compression fitting. Secure the sleeve, and you're done.

3) Don't buy smaller diameter hose. You need the right size. If it's 1/2 ID 3/4 OD then you're fine. There should be a good deal of force required to push the tubing over the compression fitting's barb. If it's easy, I blame the fittings. Lots of people use Tygon and I've never heard tell of this issue before.

4) Bitspower. Bitspower. Bitspower. Never had an issue. They are much revered around here.
Edited by lowfiwhiteguy - 10/2/13 at 7:46am
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| XSPC | RX360 | | Phobya | Xtreme 200| | MCP 655 | Variable-Speed | Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 
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Óðinn
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Methuselah
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
| Intel Core i7 | 2600K | 4.2GHz @ 1.33v | | ASUS | Maximus IV Extreme | | ASUS | ENGTX 580 | 933MHz @ 1.138v | 2-way SLI | | G.Skill | RipjawsX | 2133MHz | 8GB | 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
| Intel | 510 SSD | 120GB | | Western Digital | Caviar Black | 1TB | | XSPC | Raystorm | | XSPC | Razor 580 | Dual SLI | 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
| XSPC | Dual RX360 | | Dual MCP-655 | Variable-Speed | | Koolance | RP-452x2 | Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 
MonitorPowerCase
| Acer | P243W | 1920 x 1200 | | Enermax | MODU87+ | 900W | | CaseLabs | M8 + Pedestal | 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
| Intel Core i7 | 2600K | 4.2GHz @ 1.33v | | ASUS | Maximus IV Extreme | | ASUS | ENGTX 580 | 933MHz @ 1.138v | 2-way SLI | | G.Skill | RipjawsX | 2133MHz | 8GB | 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingCooling
| Intel | 510 SSD | 120GB | | Western Digital | Caviar Black | 1TB | | XSPC | Raystorm | | XSPC | Razer 580 | 2-way SLI | 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
| XSPC | RX360 | | Phobya | Xtreme 200| | MCP 655 | Variable-Speed | Windows 7 Professional 64-bit 
MonitorPowerCase
| Acer | P243W | 1920 x 1200 | | Enermax | MODU87+ | 900W | | CoolerMaster | HAF X | 
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