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Intel 4770K Delid and Upgrade to Water Cooling Dissapointment - Page 8

post #71 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated View Post

be careful or just re-install the heatspreader, it will probably only make a couple degrees difference running it direct. I used electrical tape, and just left it on when I put the waterblock on. But others might have better suggestions. I'm not sure you would want to leave it on if re-installing the IHS?

I'm not sure I take your meaning. On what did you use electrical tape? The IHS? Something else?
post #72 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post

I'm not sure I take your meaning. On what did you use electrical tape? The IHS? Something else?

I used it to cover the caps next to the CPU Diie, you don't want Liquid Pro oozing onto them and causing a short. I think i read someone used clear nail polish to cover them, but you might want to look into that as that is certainly more permanent and might be hard to see the coverage. Then again who cares we already voided our warranty correcting Intels defect.
post #73 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated View Post

I used it to cover the caps next to the CPU Diie, you don't want Liquid Pro oozing onto them and causing a short. I think i read someone used clear nail polish to cover them, but you might want to look into that as that is certainly more permanent and might be hard to see the coverage. Then again who cares we already voided our warranty correcting Intels defect.
Good point. I think I'll put a dab of MX4 or Ceramique 2 on there; should do it right?
post #74 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post

I'm having a bit of trouble with my 4770k delid/h100i solution myself.
What He Said, (Click to show)
I used the vise method to delid but unfortunately didn't use a big enough block of wood. As a result (I'm guessing???) it took many more smacks to remove the IHS, and it got pretty banged up. Went ahead and put CLU on the die and then on the IHS...with awful results. 50+ deg at idle, 100+ deg on load without an overclock and all fans on high. I tightened the screws of the H100i a bit, to no avail - still, awful temps.

Sure enough, when I removed the 'heatsink' portion of the H100i, the bottom looked basically clean:

(There was a smidgeon of metallic goop on there, but very, very little.)
Now, I applied the CLU to the top of the IHS the night before, and then put the motherboard with CPU installed back into the anti-static bag in which it came. I have no real experience with these liquid metal TIMs and don't really know how they are supposed to stick and spread, but that looked suspect.
Here's what the IHS looks like (cleaned off the CLU as best I could):

And note the scratches near the bottom of the heatsink:

So right now my assumption is that the raised bits at the bottom of the IHS is preventing all but the most cursory contact between the IHS and heatsink.

Ideas? Can the IHS be filed down easily? Should I simply eschew it and place the H100i upon the bare die? Buy a cheap CPU like a G1610, delid its IHS properly and use it? Or am I just screwed?

My advice would be to not direct cool it, and get a cheap CPU and use the lid off that. Or try direct die mounting that, the IHS you have is too banged up to be used on the edges and would be causing contact with the block/H100i or whatever cooler you're using. You could also use the current IHS and just sand it back a bit if you want to try that first. It works out quite a bit cheaper then a new G1620 or whatever and you'll probably get better temps then what you would with a G1620 IHS on it. Another thing you could do is lap the bottom edges a bit to create better contact for it.

I am definite in my answer that the edges being dented aren't allowing proper contact with the cooler and the IHS causing your temperature issues.

You may want to also glue the IHS down maybe, once you've tested your temps and gotten a good mount. smile.gif

Hope that helps smile.gif
 
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post #75 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt-Matt View Post

My advice would be to not direct cool it, and get a cheap CPU and use the lid off that. Or try direct die mounting that, the IHS you have is too banged up to be used on the edges and would be causing contact with the block/H100i or whatever cooler you're using. You could also use the current IHS and just sand it back a bit if you want to try that first. It works out quite a bit cheaper then a new G1620 or whatever and you'll probably get better temps then what you would with a G1620 IHS on it. Another thing you could do is lap the bottom edges a bit to create better contact for it.

I am definite in my answer that the edges being dented aren't allowing proper contact with the cooler and the IHS causing your temperature issues.

You may want to also glue the IHS down maybe, once you've tested your temps and gotten a good mount. smile.gif

Hope that helps smile.gif

Thanks for the advice, but try 'direct die mounting' what? In the previous sentence, seemed like you said that that shouldn't be on the table.
For now, I'm waiting for new mobo, as I stupidly bent a bunch of pins and then bent a bunch more trying to bunch them back together with my CC. Too bad too, that was a pretty good BF deal I got on it.
post #76 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justintoxicated View Post

Yea I delidded and I am disappointed in the results as well, I only dropped 30c.. I was hoping delidding would keep my CPU at ambient or below. biggrin.gif

BTW I believe CLP is better when applied to the core and CLU better for the top of the heatspreader which is less flat. People have mixed results with all these liquid metal TMs, but from what I gather CLU is better for uneven surfaces where more is used, and CLP better where you can get by with super flat surfaces and super thin layer is used. Some people say CLU some CLP and some even say Phobya Liquid metal is best. I used Phobya TIM because it was less than 1/2 as expensive $6.99 for a syringe, It was fun to spread and I was able to get a reflective spread super thin. My netted drop is over 30c. I haven't sceen anything higher than 58c (hottest peaked 63c but its dropped a few more degrees after setting up for some reason) where I was at 92c before with similar ambients and .01 less v core (give or take a few degrees). I'm sitting at 1.275c which I was afraid to stress test for 24 hours before delidding due to hitting 92c @ 1.265v.

I can't beleive the improvement but there is no disputing it. I verified my spread was about perfect when I pulled the waterblock the first time, so it's not like I had bad coverage either.

That's a hell lot of temperature drop, grats mate:) I am waitiing for my Indigo Xtreme before I delid it. Well Xmas time, I need wait bit more
Quote:
Originally Posted by bilditup1 View Post

I'm having a bit of trouble with my 4770k delid/h100i solution myself.

I used the vise method to delid but unfortunately didn't use a big enough block of wood. As a result (I'm guessing???) it took many more smacks to remove the IHS, and it got pretty banged up. Went ahead and put CLU on the die and then on the IHS...with awful results. 50+ deg at idle, 100+ deg on load without an overclock and all fans on high. I tightened the screws of the H100i a bit, to no avail - still, awful temps.

Sure enough, when I removed the 'heatsink' portion of the H100i, the bottom looked basically clean:

(There was a smidgeon of metallic goop on there, but very, very little.)
Now, I applied the CLU to the top of the IHS the night before, and then put the motherboard with CPU installed back into the anti-static bag in which it came. I have no real experience with these liquid metal TIMs and don't really know how they are supposed to stick and spread, but that looked suspect.
Here's what the IHS looks like (cleaned off the CLU as best I could):

And note the scratches near the bottom of the heatsink:

So right now my assumption is that the raised bits at the bottom of the IHS is preventing all but the most cursory contact between the IHS and heatsink.

Ideas? Can the IHS be filed down easily? Should I simply eschew it and place the H100i upon the bare die? Buy a cheap CPU like a G1610, delid its IHS properly and use it? Or am I just screwed?

Hmmm, I think you need a pine wood and wide enough before hammer it smile.gif but well, you can always lap it to flat
Quote:
Originally Posted by ladcrooks View Post

Noctua paste has served me well thumb.gif
I have heard that Noctua paste has popup effects?
Quote:
Originally Posted by defiler2k View Post

I usually put tape on the vice grips and make sure the vice is making full contact with the IHS wall to prevent that.
Lapping is to sand down the top of the IHS to make it perfectly flat. Some people go as far as giving the IHS a mirror finish. That apparently improves temps. In your case it would solve your current problem.

Hi defiller2k, I am waiting for the IE before I delid it. Is there any suggestion for delid die protections? such as whether I need use elec tape to cover the outside the die area on PCB in case CLP pops or mx-4 will be a better idea.

Also am I really need a piece of pine for vise method or any kind of wood will be fine as long as wide enough to cover the edge of the IHS.

I should be able to delid it maybe next week.
I have received my CLP but waiting for IE now.

Cheers mate smile.gif I was trying to stress the video card for max temperature, but well 49 was my highest I believe after about 1 hour of 3d mark tests @1220 mhz on core(1330 mv) 1800 on VRAM (1620mv)

I wasn't brave enough to keep add voltage as I am not sure how much I can add to them..... 1330mv on core was my comfort zone before I burn it.

Cheers mate, hopeing to learn some delid tricks before I do it with my shaking hands smile.gif
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post #77 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobitz View Post

Hi defiller2k, I am waiting for the IE before I delid it. Is there any suggestion for delid die protections? such as whether I need use elec tape to cover the outside the die area on PCB in case CLP pops or mx-4 will be a better idea.

Also am I really need a piece of pine for vise method or any kind of wood will be fine as long as wide enough to cover the edge of the IHS.

I should be able to delid it maybe next week.
I have received my CLP but waiting for IE now.

Cheers mate smile.gif I was trying to stress the video card for max temperature, but well 49 was my highest I believe after about 1 hour of 3d mark tests @1220 mhz on core(1330 mv) 1800 on VRAM (1620mv)

I wasn't brave enough to keep add voltage as I am not sure how much I can add to them..... 1330mv on core was my comfort zone before I burn it.

Cheers mate, hopeing to learn some delid tricks before I do it with my shaking hands smile.gif

I would put liquid electrical tape on the capacitors next to the die to ensure that they are protected in case the CLP/CLU spreads to them, thats what I use.

I would suggest pine or a soft wood. Anything harder might damage the PCB, I have seen people use random stuff like hard drives and such with success but personally I wouldnt risk it. You do have to make shure the strikes are parallel to prevent damage to the pcb.

Those stress tests would be a good benchmark for your temps. I think you should be fine.
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post #78 of 93
I used a piece of mahogany, I would think a piece or harder wood would work better as it will deliver more impact from the strike, pine might indent more making followup hits harder to make properly, but really I would think just about any wood would work. Use whatever your comfortable with, that has a nice flat straight edge. Mine came off really easy and the CPU only moved an inch when it popped off, it did not go flying but I would set something up to catch it just in case. The idea isn't to strike a massive blow, it's to shock the glue holding it in place. Put something on the vice to help prevent marring it.

Also, just making sure you know this but Indigo Extreme cannot be applied directly to the die, only the IHS. Just making sure your buying to put on the IHS after you re-attach it.

I used electrical tape, but liquid stuff is probably better, other people have used clear nail polish etc. If you use the liquid electrical tape make sure you give it some time to dry first (whatever directions say).
post #79 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by defiler2k View Post

I would put liquid electrical tape on the capacitors next to the die to ensure that they are protected in case the CLP/CLU spreads to them, thats what I use.

I would suggest pine or a soft wood. Anything harder might damage the PCB, I have seen people use random stuff like hard drives and such with success but personally I wouldnt risk it. You do have to make shure the strikes are parallel to prevent damage to the pcb.

Those stress tests would be a good benchmark for your temps. I think you should be fine.
delided today smile.gif trying out temperature, I will post back my temp after some pressure tests.

Thanks mate
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post #80 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobitz View Post

delided today smile.gif trying out temperature, I will post back my temp after some pressure tests.

Thanks mate

Post back those temps, it would be interesting to see your results.
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