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Project: '88 Camaro Cooling - Page 4

post #31 of 52
Nice!
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Shop Dog
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post #32 of 52
Thread Starter 
Time for a panel to die...or come to life depending on how you look at it. You can see the small holes in the corners that I drilled while I had the template for the glass pieces on the panel, that way I had reference points that matched for sure. Then I scribed the lines for the cuts and put some tape on it to keep my 36" metal straight edge from scratching it. A Rotozip, a Dremel and about 1-1/2 hours of cutting and filing and we get the nice aluminum frame/panel. I was pleasantly surprised by how sturdy the frame still was after reducing it to nearly nothing.

Next you see the individual template pieces for the glass work and one of the broken pieces being laid out for optimal usage. Working with glass is unique in that you can't start a cut and stop half way through the material. You scribe a line or a curve and then snap it. The flaw of the scratch promotes a controlled, guided break along that line just like when you are snapping ceramic tiles. This means you have to be very conscious of placement of the templates. Not only do you have to accommodate the breaking issue, but you also have to be aware of their orientation when using textured glass. If not, you may have all but one or two pieces with the texture pattern going one direction while those scant few go the other. The effect is like having one drive bay cover with a brushed finish going left to right while the rest of them plus the bezel all have it going up and down. Bottom line, it stands out big time and looks less than appealing.




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post #33 of 52
Stained glass how original! looks great! Can't wait till she's done.
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post #34 of 52
Thread Starter 
Now usually when you work a stained glass piece you start in one corner and work your way across. The reason is that the patterns are cut with special 3-blade scissors that cut out the center where the solder or lead came go. This clearance plus slight deviations when finish grinding the pieces means that things don't fit snug like a puzzle, instead they kind of float. Well, for starts I used the smaller web scissors for this (foil scissors vs came scissors) even though I should have used the larger ones, but I wanted things to be tighter. To make things even more stressful, I had to work from the outside in, like doing a puzzle and getting the entire boarder first. If there was any mismatching then pieces would stop fitting. This was going to be a definite challenge...at least more than I though initially. Luckily everything worked out and with very little frustration I was able to get everything assembled. Unlike puzzles where you can drop a piece into place, the lead came is like an I-beam and the glass sits in the channel so it has to be slid into place. You can see where the trouble comes in when you get to the last few...how do they slide it? Very carefully, but successfully!

Fan Holes: There is a special grinding wheel for making holes. It is about 3/16 diameter and while the sides are diamond grit coated, so is the very top. With patience and a gentle touch you slowly center grind the glass away until it pops through and then you can work it small circles to open it up to the size you want.




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post #35 of 52
dude, that is absolutely amazing! good job wish i could +rep you heh
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post #36 of 52
You have an amazing skill my friend. I have a feeling that window will look sick when done I cant wait to see the finished product.
TBD..
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TBD..
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post #37 of 52
Wow... nice job!
post #38 of 52
I love it!

Be careful of silica dust!
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Shop Dog
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post #39 of 52
Thread Starter 
Yeah, the case was relocated to outside my little workshop during the glass work. On the other hand all the grinding is done with a light water bath and shields to keep the spray from getting everywhere so it stay pretty controlled.
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post #40 of 52
Ahh water. I never did anything like that--it's a great mod!
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