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[MOD] LGA775 Support For LGA771 Xeon CPUs - Page 1010

post #10091 of 12463
Quote:
Originally Posted by stilskinz View Post

..........................

WARNING: The following coming from a NOVICE overclocker:
About the C1E thing, in my X5460 rig (that has a different chipset MB) i could use the feature up to ~3.8GHz OC, after that i had stability issues that went away as soon as i disabled C1E. Your PC may behave differently however, so i suggest going the conventional (?) way:

-Disable C1E, Spread Spectrum, set PCIE=100 and all that "usual" OC-related jaz.
-Start gradually increasing CPU clocks (FSB) with loosest possible memory settings (low Freq,/high timings) on each step.
-Once you get to a speed that you can't boot to Windows/PC crashes, increase Vcore by the smallest step possible and try again. Repeat until stable (within reason ofc!)
-When you find the highest clocks you can go (with reasonable temps/Vcore/whatever you like), start trying tighter memory settings (higher frequence / lower timings).
-You can try raising a bit the DRAM voltage also, but be aware that you can kill your mem more easily than your CPU that way (RAM chips don't have any thermal protection build into them), so use caution: read about what your 'safe' max voltage should be (for example most 1.5V sticks can go to 1.6V without issues (short term at least) if your case isn't boiling hot inside...

That way you can gradually achieve the highest CPU/mem OC combo configuration you think its ok, limited ofc by your chip, MB, cooling performance, PSU, amount of Trolls in the case, ect...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ophicleide View Post

Yes every part from this PC is used. The only thing that isn't used is the CPU cooler. But I've tested every piece in this system and I do have a cheap 775 CPU that I found on ebay (E8400). I used it to install windows and these issues were present but I didn't think much of them as I figured it was just because not all drivers were up to date yet.

The X5460 is recognized in the BIOS and I went over the sticker on the back of the CPU with a magnifying glass and it's damn near perfectly on those two pins. I used the tools from delidded to install the microcodes.
I'm about to put the CPU stock after I'm finished typing this and see how it performs after awhile. Performance is going to drop but I'll at least get to see if it doesn't crash as much or at all.*

The sound device on this PC is all integrated.

This Hitachi hard drive is about 9 years old and I did a clean install of windows 8.1 and upgraded to Windows 10. I've been thinking about resetting the OS and just keeping it at 8.1 to see if that would help with anything.
I've just done some tests and I found some damaged areas on the hard drive. Also when doing a disk checkup the test would not complete due to read errors. And I just found 2 unstable sectors. Do you think this could be a reason why most of my drivers are broken?

As for the RAM, the default multiplier was 2.4 putting the clock on the sticks to 934 I think is what it was. And I've ran tests with just one stick in at a time. I've reinstalled graphics drivers as well multiple times.

*I made the multiplier 2.0 and had the clocks normal at 800Mhz so I'm going to leave the CPU at 3.8 for awhile and see if that helped.

This information does not help with the problem here:

First of all you have a failing HDD, get rid of that ASAP and be aware that any data inside can be corrupted including applications, installed or not, in .msi or XXX installer.exe are not to be trusted and need to be deleted and replaced with new fiels! This is important, you can't use a corrupted driver file or a Win10 image file that rests on Bad Sectors!
A HDD that has started to show Bad Sectors is a ticking bomb and your data is not safe in there. How long until it dies? Who knows, it might be a week or a year, but it will fail and it will keep increasing those Bad Sectors...

Next thing is that the system was "broken" even with that C2D CPU as you said, so this is not an issue of "Xeon on s775 MB" in the first place. Its something wrong with your rig.

First of all make sure that the pieces are compatible, double check, it is not that hard wink.gif
For me, first step is removing (plus cleaning?) and re-installing every piece of hardware there is (CPU/Memory sticks/ALL PSU connectors/everything!), and then using a disk/usb/whatever with Windows XXX that you know installed just fine on another PC and worked fine 1000%
I don't care if Bill Gates got his money, i only care that this exact medium with WinX on it has been installed and worked fine before, and it's not a random image i downloaded yesterday.
Needless to say that any overclock is out of the question at this point, not until EVERYTHING is working 100% good when stock...

If this does not work or you still get errors during or after Windows install, then you either have a bad piece of hardware, or an incompatible configuration.
I would remove one part at a time to see when the troubles stop, or migrate parts one by one in another (working) PC if possible to test them.

In best case it can be as easy as the memory sticks in the wrong slots, or inappropriate sticks (like ones using 256MB chips on them or whatever), or a bad fitting of ANY of the various parts.
In worst case scenario, it can be a bad MB or PSU i'm afraid...
Edited by JohnnyG01 - 7/26/16 at 11:05pm
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Thy Old Lady
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post #10092 of 12463
Quote:
Originally Posted by schuck6566 View Post

I don't know what all gear U have,but took a look @ the 240 case. It looks like it's REALLY friendly to the AIO water cooling set ups. I have a 120mm aio on my e5450.Single fan & radiator attach to case,2 hoses run to cooling block that mounts on cpu like conventional cooler. even with air, U should be fine with the e5450 (either co or eo) in that case because it's a lower wattage cpu to start.(80watt) Most of the older quads were either 95,or 120 watt @ least. leave your Motherboard specs,ect., and I and others will be glad to offer advice.(Some here may even offer to add the xeon codes to the bios for ya.) wink.gif

Thanks for the advice. The E5450 is available locally, so I'll go with that then. I'd love to put the chip under water, but i'm trying for a cheap upgrade. When I phase out my 2500K, i'll likely migrate the AIO from that to my HTPC.

At the moment, I have an E3110 on a p5k-vm with stock cooling. It'll do 3.35 Ghz @ 70 C full load (IBT), but i'm going to be getting this: http://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/47/name/SE-903

My motherboard isn't the best at overclocking, but I've gotten my E3110 (E0) to 4Ghz with a big CM V8 cooler. I'm just hoping the C0 stepping chips don't put out too much more heat than the E0's

Thanks for the offer on the bios. It think I modified it already, but would really appreciate a double check as this is the first time doing it. p5k-vm-modified.zip 641k .zip file
post #10093 of 12463
Quote:
Originally Posted by schuck6566 View Post

Ck all your connections inside,make sure all the screws are snug in the standoffs ect., make sure no sata cable is loose or "flakey/iffy" also,make sure no fans are acting different in 1 position from the other.(Had a dell sff with a cpu cooling fan that was on it's way out,would run fine upright,but lay it down & blades just sat & looked @ ya) also ck your psu plugs & fans and connectors. LOL, had a "short" 1 time that was me not pushing the cord all the way into the psu,It would get hit or bumped and be just enough for a power outage effect. you can also ck for too much/not enough paste on the cpu or see if some slopped over when the cooler installed. If you have voltage control on your ram, try bumping it up a hair. (If ram is 1.8 volt sticks,try setting 1.9 in bios ) also,when running,go to device manager and make sure processor is showing xeon with drivers for it,& look for any yello exclamation marks/triangles that need drivers updated ect. Also,if it's in ahci mode,you MAY need to switch to sata legacy/ide. Ck your task manager for "system interupts" also.If using more then 20% of cpu usage,ther's an issue.(most likely hardware)

Ye when i noticed that vertical/horizontal problem i removed the cooler and there was just it seems so much excessive paste. rolleyes.gif And i actually thought i put a small amount of it, but somehow while being vertical the paste went so much down that it passed the cpu and the cooler surface which it seems made a problem. I reapplied less paste now and left it overnight in horizontal position so the paste hardens with the surface first before having gravity issues, hope that fixes it. At least now also durring this overnight session it didint freeze at all, so i guess that 99% it.
post #10094 of 12463
@silkstone
Read up on the correct way to apply thermal compound. A thin line across the top of the CPU that you DON'T spread out. Then get yourself a proper bracket to attach the cooler instead of the silly plastic pins that Intel provides. You can pick them up for a song on fleaBay. These two things together lowered the temps on my P5Q by 10C.
You had some of the codes in your BIOS but not all of them. The following has all of the codes for 45mm Xeon added. p5k-vm-checked.zip 641k .zip file
Edited by Revhead - 7/27/16 at 5:44am
     
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post #10095 of 12463
Awesome. Thanks. I'd just added the E5450 to the bios as that is the chip I've just ordered smile.gif

My E3110 is lapped to a copper mirror shine with a smidgeon of thermal compound. The stock heatsink is just really bad, it's a low profile piece of aluminum, no copper frown.gif
I just got a better one to replace it and I'm going to add a delta to it. Hopefully, it will then perform much better.

I'm getting excited waiting for the E5450. I love tinkering with old stuff and making it 'new' again. The only think I am slightly nervous about is cutting off the plastic stubs on the mobo. One slip and it bent pins and dead motherboard.
post #10096 of 12463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revhead View Post

@silkstone
Read up on the correct way to apply thermal compound. A thin line across the top of the CPU that you DON'T spread out. Then get yourself a proper bracket to attach the cooler instead of the silly plastic pins that Intel provides. You can pick them up for a song on fleaBay. These two things together lowered the temps on my P5Q by 10C.
You had some of the codes in your BIOS but not all of them. The following has all of the codes for 45mm Xeon added. p5k-vm-checked.zip 641k .zip file

I did read up, i applied thermal compound many times, i even knew that this particular mx-2 has a characteristic to spread more then usual but hell i made a mistake redface.gif I don't have anything from intel, its a custom cooler design with a backplate. http://www.lc-power.com/en/product/power-supplies/lc-cc-120/

So it seems in the end that was the problem, the compound just went all over the place , so right now should i flash my bios with what u uploaded for me with the added codes or just leave it now as it works like this. In any case thanks for the upload, il make sure to have that one ready in case of anything bad happens again biggrin.gif
post #10097 of 12463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silkstone View Post

Awesome. Thanks. I'd just added the E5450 to the bios as that is the chip I've just ordered smile.gif

My E3110 is lapped to a copper mirror shine with a smidgeon of thermal compound. The stock heatsink is just really bad, it's a low profile piece of aluminum, no copper frown.gif
I just got a better one to replace it and I'm going to add a delta to it. Hopefully, it will then perform much better.

I'm getting excited waiting for the E5450. I love tinkering with old stuff and making it 'new' again. The only think I am slightly nervous about is cutting off the plastic stubs on the mobo. One slip and it bent pins and dead motherboard.

You'll be right.
Don't try and cut the tabs with the mobo in the case. Much easier on the table.
Turn it around so you are cutting towards yourself or whatever feels comfortable. Get a pair of those magnifying glasses if you're eyesight isn't good (great for applying the sticker to the CPU).
Use a sharp utility knife with a blade that doesn't flex. One of those with double ended replaceable blades. We call them Stanley knives. I think this point is important.
Then line up the tab and apply firm but even pressure downwards rather than using a cutting motion. Tab should come off fairly easily.
Get rid of the piece you've just cut off then check to see whether any part of the tab remains. If so trim it back.
Whatever you do don't rush it. You've got all day. Try to keep cutting motion to a minimum and make sure you keep the blade vertical and apply pressure downwards or outwards towards the edge of the socket - never towards the pins. That way if you slip the pins are not in danger.
Then rotate the board and do the other side.
When you're done try the CPU for fit. It should drop in easily without any obstruction.
Job done!


Edited by Revhead - 7/27/16 at 3:25pm
     
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LITEONIT LCT-128M3S SAMSUNG HD502HJ ASUS DRW-24D5MT Zalman CNPS9900 Max 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
5 x 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Black  W7 Ultimate 64 bit ASUS VH222 Antec 650w Earthwatts 
CaseOther
DeepCool Tesseract BF Mid Tower Case USB 3.0 5GB/s 2 Port HUB 20 Pin Port PCi-E Addo... 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
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RAMCoolingOSPower
Kingston HyperX 2 x 1GB DeepCool Gammaxx 400 W7 Ultimate 64 bit CoolerMaster Thunder 700W 
Case
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Xeon X5470 Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P Palit GTX 260 OCZ Reaper DDR2 1066 5-5-5-15 4x2GB 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
LITEONIT LCT-128M3S SAMSUNG HD502HJ ASUS DRW-24D5MT Zalman CNPS9900 Max 
CoolingOSMonitorPower
5 x 120mm Bitfenix Spectre Black  W7 Ultimate 64 bit ASUS VH222 Antec 650w Earthwatts 
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DeepCool Tesseract BF Mid Tower Case USB 3.0 5GB/s 2 Port HUB 20 Pin Port PCi-E Addo... 
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Kingston HyperX 2 x 1GB DeepCool Gammaxx 400 W7 Ultimate 64 bit CoolerMaster Thunder 700W 
Case
Cooler Master Centurion 5 
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post #10098 of 12463
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silkstone View Post

Thanks for the advice. The E5450 is available locally, so I'll go with that then. I'd love to put the chip under water, but i'm trying for a cheap upgrade. When I phase out my 2500K, i'll likely migrate the AIO from that to my HTPC.

At the moment, I have an E3110 on a p5k-vm with stock cooling. It'll do 3.35 Ghz @ 70 C full load (IBT), but i'm going to be getting this: http://www.idcooling.com/Product/detail/id/47/name/SE-903

My motherboard isn't the best at overclocking, but I've gotten my E3110 (E0) to 4Ghz with a big CM V8 cooler. I'm just hoping the C0 stepping chips don't put out too much more heat than the E0's

Thanks for the offer on the bios. It think I modified it already, but would really appreciate a double check as this is the first time doing it. p5k-vm-modified.zip 641k .zip file
just make sure to measure with the board in case from top of cpu towards side panel to make sure panel will open & close with cooler on.(I bought a evo 212 and the side panel on 1 case misses closing by less then 1/2 inch,cooling pipes stick out)rolleyes.gif
post #10099 of 12463
Quote:
Originally Posted by stilskinz View Post

I did read up, i applied thermal compound many times, i even knew that this particular mx-2 has a characteristic to spread more then usual but hell i made a mistake redface.gif I don't have anything from intel, its a custom cooler design with a backplate. http://www.lc-power.com/en/product/power-supplies/lc-cc-120/

So it seems in the end that was the problem, the compound just went all over the place , so right now should i flash my bios with what u uploaded for me with the added codes or just leave it now as it works like this. In any case thanks for the upload, il make sure to have that one ready in case of anything bad happens again biggrin.gif
Rev made that bios up for Silkstone, unless your running a p5k-vm also, stick with the bios that was already done. Wrong bios/board lies brick. Just open cpu-z to see if sse4.1 is enabled on yours. I'll post what it should look like.
Edited by schuck6566 - 7/27/16 at 5:29pm
post #10100 of 12463
Nah ok, its fine. I just messed up who was replying to who haha, this thread is on fire biggrin.gif
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