Originally Posted by Goustoulos
wow i cant believe u just did all of those tests. you are the best man. thanks
of course i know that its not a good idea to run a system just on the power limit, your psu can provide. i just wanted to know if it can last 1 or 2 weeks, until i get my hands on a better one.
i know that the toughpower 700w is a bit overkill for my system but hey, its nice to have some spare power. i will not be getting a 5870 crossfire anyway
assuming that your card has a tdp of 180watts, and my card has a tdp of 220 watts, i assume that in the same stress tests, i would get a power draw of 40watt more.
of course as you said that itsnt quite right, but i doubt that my pc will need 200 more watts on the same tests.
just to give u an update on my situation, i didnt get any of the hardware i talked about. i ordered a cheap aircooler(rajintek themis) for 27euros new. i think it will get the job done, and i guess i will be able to do some mild overclocking. of course i am not going to run this on my current psu. actualy i will, until i get a decent one.
this one, besides that it is barely enough to run my pc, is also pretty old(2006 i think)
anyway, thanks for all of your help guys
you are the best
edit: glitchmaster, i am pretty sure your motherboard is compatible
So, you bought a Themis for 27e, what a coincidence!
Taking the measurements was easy, since i have the measuring equipment, OC settings stored in BIOS and didn't have to install any other utils, no problem my friend, happy that i could help
But always assume the worst case numbers and then add some safety margin if you want to be reasonably safe, and that is besides purposely buying a good deal bigger unit because you want it to work cooler/last longer/make less noise/hit the efficiency sweet spot/Lizzard People told you to buy that (an 700W capable PSU will run cooler and quieter at 350W load than a 500W capable one).
Warning: Needless rant inside (Click to show)
The thing about power ratings in both cards and PSUs is that you never know how close to the ratings you can/must go, so always think of the worst case scenario and act accordingly:
Your card might not pull the full power rated, after all its a "max
power" rating so a 'wost-case-ever' kinda scenario, but more important is the fact that your PSU (not yours specifically ofc) might not be able to deliver what is promising power-wise...
My Sapphire 270X's specs state power consumption "<180W" and suggest a 500W PSU. I would make sure i could supply those 180W plus 10-20% more for safety/error margin first of all.
Thermaltake, Corsair and other manufacturers might make sure their products perform as advertised even in the worst cases. But some crappy OEM/cheap brand unit might purposely over-spec their units using the same logic people make based on actual power measurements:
Lets say for example that you have a 130W TDP rated CPU and twp 200W rated GPUs. That means that the manufacturers state that no more than 530W is needed ever to power those parts. Then the brand CrapTechUltima that tries to cut costs and make some money, gets some data from peoples rigs and see that the actual maximum power consumption of those three parts in real life is from 300 to 400 watts, worst case, in 1000 tested rigs (fantasy mumbers here ofc).
So they think, screw it, lets make our "530W capable" PSU with lesser parts, really only capable of ~440W and that will be plenty in any case, no PC we tested ever came close to that!
And then you buy that whole parts combo and you have parts that need 530W max and a 530W-rated max PSU, but If you measure the real watts consumed they are not 530 and if you try to pull 530W from your PSU it can't give them.
But the system works, most of the times at least, because you might hit that day when the processors need that 5 extra watts and the PSU blows its diodes out...
Originally Posted by schuck6566
my AIO (LEPA AquaChanger 120) is warrenteed for 5.707 years non-stop usage on the pump (50,000 hours).To me it was worth the lower temps,the cooler was only about $20 dollars more then the EVO 212 I bought first. The EVO also has issues fitting in alot of cases.
Well back when i had my E8500 with Big Typhoon, i build a PC for a friend that wanted it for editing videos (long ones). Lots of money and high specs back then, Q9650, tripple HHDs and ****, and only an aftermarket but modest Akasa CPU cooler.
Long story shorter, we got him a Big Typhoon too in the end, because after hours of rendering temps got to ~64 (my E8500 absolute max was ~40c at the same time).
After a few years we build another PC, almost same spec so he can render faster using the two rigs.
This time i lay down the cooling options and cost and he goes "**** it, put in a Corsair H50 so i don't have to worry about that". Note that case needed was about two times the money back then, AIOs were a novelty and radiator-fitted cases were expensive.
First unit died in 6 months, which alone i don't hold it against it since ANY product can be defective, and we got a replacement.
Well guess what: in his always Air Conditioned work space, the difference between CPU temps in both the old and the new AIO was around 2-3c.
Also guess how much the pump lasted on 2nd unit (not dead, but making a vary audible high-pitch noise): less than 1.5years!
Guess what he choose to get instead of a 3rd H50 replacement from the same store...
Yes that is only one case and in fact the only one for me with water ever, but i don't see anything wrong with advising caution to someone what want to buy a used AIO.
Water cooling has its benefits, but also has its drawbacks, and in my opinion the typically (when compared to more expensive custom systems) weak performing AIOs give much too little more than a good heatsink to worth the risks/downsides:
Water pumps and especially tiny ones in AIOs are known to fail, when heatsink will last forever even if it needs a new fan at some point (my stock fan is still just fine).
Water can leak and kill nothing to ANYTHING in the case, and that can be a $500+ GPU. Large Heatsinks can cause the MB to bend a bit (mine is too), but if you or the manufactured have not screwed up, it should not cause any issues (my 2007 build PC is still running fine).
People will be much happier to buy your used heatsink if you upgrade, no so much on a used water system/AIO that might be leaking/making noise because its dying/pump having only a small time before it fails...
In conclusion:My humble opinion
is that if you will only push your hardware just a tad or not a lot, then it's better to prefer the care-free option of the air, supposing that the prices and cooling performance are similar.
If you want to clock hard, then water may be the only way to keep the temps when you like them to be or the clocks as high as you want them for sustained use.
If you want as much lower temps and as less noise as can be and don't care about cost or resale value/longevity because in 2 years you will just buy another complete rig, go full out if you have the money or get one of the higher performing AIOs at least.
Also if there is a size-to-cooling ratio that must be kept because of a small case, or you just have fitting issues like you mentioned then sure, AIO is the way to go!Edited by JohnnyG01 - 7/8/16 at 5:33pm