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[MOD] LGA775 Support For LGA771 Xeon CPUs - Page 993

post #9921 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyG01 View Post

Hey there,

You can can see some numbers of my X5460 / P5Q3 / 4GB setup (so almost identical to what yours will be), although with a Big Typhoon heatsink, in this thread, post No5889.

Also drawing 500W from a 500W PSU, even a well-made one and brand new, is a bad idea. If you know for a fact that you will be really pulling power close to the max rated one of your PSU, its best to upgrade.

Also watch out on those AIO's, a pump have only so much life to give and if you are not planning to really push the CPU hard and/or 24/7, IMHO its best to go for the aircooling. My chunk of metal from 2009 is still alive and kicking just fine, will a AIO last the same amount of time?
Still only my opinion ofc, and if you are planning to have an almost 10 year old CPU running over-volted and @60-70c for long periods, then maybe its best to go for water and maybe keep it 10c cooler if you can...

Thanks my non-expert 5cents smile.gif

Καλή τύχη!
my AIO (LEPA AquaChanger 120) is warrenteed for 5.707 years non-stop usage on the pump (50,000 hours).To me it was worth the lower temps,the cooler was only about $20 dollars more then the EVO 212 I bought first. The EVO also has issues fitting in alot of cases.redface.gif
post #9922 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goustoulos View Post

wow i cant believe u just did all of those tests. you are the best man. thanks biggrin.gif
of course i know that its not a good idea to run a system just on the power limit, your psu can provide. i just wanted to know if it can last 1 or 2 weeks, until i get my hands on a better one.
i know that the toughpower 700w is a bit overkill for my system but hey, its nice to have some spare power. i will not be getting a 5870 crossfire anyway
assuming that your card has a tdp of 180watts, and my card has a tdp of 220 watts, i assume that in the same stress tests, i would get a power draw of 40watt more.
of course as you said that itsnt quite right, but i doubt that my pc will need 200 more watts on the same tests.
just to give u an update on my situation, i didnt get any of the hardware i talked about. i ordered a cheap aircooler(rajintek themis) for 27euros new. i think it will get the job done, and i guess i will be able to do some mild overclocking. of course i am not going to run this on my current psu. actualy i will, until i get a decent one.
this one, besides that it is barely enough to run my pc, is also pretty old(2006 i think)
anyway, thanks for all of your help guys biggrin.gif you are the best

edit: glitchmaster, i am pretty sure your motherboard is compatible

Ευχαριστω biggrin.gif

So, you bought a Themis for 27e, what a coincidence!



Taking the measurements was easy, since i have the measuring equipment, OC settings stored in BIOS and didn't have to install any other utils, no problem my friend, happy that i could help smile.gif

But always assume the worst case numbers and then add some safety margin if you want to be reasonably safe, and that is besides purposely buying a good deal bigger unit because you want it to work cooler/last longer/make less noise/hit the efficiency sweet spot/Lizzard People told you to buy that (an 700W capable PSU will run cooler and quieter at 350W load than a 500W capable one). Warning: Needless rant inside (Click to show)
The thing about power ratings in both cards and PSUs is that you never know how close to the ratings you can/must go, so always think of the worst case scenario and act accordingly:
Your card might not pull the full power rated, after all its a "max power" rating so a 'wost-case-ever' kinda scenario, but more important is the fact that your PSU (not yours specifically ofc) might not be able to deliver what is promising power-wise...
My Sapphire 270X's specs state power consumption "<180W" and suggest a 500W PSU. I would make sure i could supply those 180W plus 10-20% more for safety/error margin first of all.

Thermaltake, Corsair and other manufacturers might make sure their products perform as advertised even in the worst cases. But some crappy OEM/cheap brand unit might purposely over-spec their units using the same logic people make based on actual power measurements:
Lets say for example that you have a 130W TDP rated CPU and twp 200W rated GPUs. That means that the manufacturers state that no more than 530W is needed ever to power those parts. Then the brand CrapTechUltima that tries to cut costs and make some money, gets some data from peoples rigs and see that the actual maximum power consumption of those three parts in real life is from 300 to 400 watts, worst case, in 1000 tested rigs (fantasy mumbers here ofc).
So they think, screw it, lets make our "530W capable" PSU with lesser parts, really only capable of ~440W and that will be plenty in any case, no PC we tested ever came close to that!

And then you buy that whole parts combo and you have parts that need 530W max and a 530W-rated max PSU, but If you measure the real watts consumed they are not 530 and if you try to pull 530W from your PSU it can't give them. who-let-rip-smiley.png
But the system works, most of the times at least, because you might hit that day when the processors need that 5 extra watts and the PSU blows its diodes out...
Quote:
Originally Posted by schuck6566 View Post

my AIO (LEPA AquaChanger 120) is warrenteed for 5.707 years non-stop usage on the pump (50,000 hours).To me it was worth the lower temps,the cooler was only about $20 dollars more then the EVO 212 I bought first. The EVO also has issues fitting in alot of cases.redface.gif

Well back when i had my E8500 with Big Typhoon, i build a PC for a friend that wanted it for editing videos (long ones). Lots of money and high specs back then, Q9650, tripple HHDs and ****, and only an aftermarket but modest Akasa CPU cooler.
Long story shorter, we got him a Big Typhoon too in the end, because after hours of rendering temps got to ~64 (my E8500 absolute max was ~40c at the same time).
After a few years we build another PC, almost same spec so he can render faster using the two rigs.
This time i lay down the cooling options and cost and he goes "**** it, put in a Corsair H50 so i don't have to worry about that". Note that case needed was about two times the money back then, AIOs were a novelty and radiator-fitted cases were expensive.
First unit died in 6 months, which alone i don't hold it against it since ANY product can be defective, and we got a replacement.
Well guess what: in his always Air Conditioned work space, the difference between CPU temps in both the old and the new AIO was around 2-3c.
Also guess how much the pump lasted on 2nd unit (not dead, but making a vary audible high-pitch noise): less than 1.5years!
Guess what he choose to get instead of a 3rd H50 replacement from the same store...

Yes that is only one case and in fact the only one for me with water ever, but i don't see anything wrong with advising caution to someone what want to buy a used AIO.
Water cooling has its benefits, but also has its drawbacks, and in my opinion the typically (when compared to more expensive custom systems) weak performing AIOs give much too little more than a good heatsink to worth the risks/downsides:
Water pumps and especially tiny ones in AIOs are known to fail, when heatsink will last forever even if it needs a new fan at some point (my stock fan is still just fine).
Water can leak and kill nothing to ANYTHING in the case, and that can be a $500+ GPU. Large Heatsinks can cause the MB to bend a bit (mine is too), but if you or the manufactured have not screwed up, it should not cause any issues (my 2007 build PC is still running fine).
People will be much happier to buy your used heatsink if you upgrade, no so much on a used water system/AIO that might be leaking/making noise because its dying/pump having only a small time before it fails...

In conclusion:
My humble opinion is that if you will only push your hardware just a tad or not a lot, then it's better to prefer the care-free option of the air, supposing that the prices and cooling performance are similar.
If you want to clock hard, then water may be the only way to keep the temps when you like them to be or the clocks as high as you want them for sustained use.
If you want as much lower temps and as less noise as can be and don't care about cost or resale value/longevity because in 2 years you will just buy another complete rig, go full out if you have the money or get one of the higher performing AIOs at least.
Also if there is a size-to-cooling ratio that must be kept because of a small case, or you just have fitting issues like you mentioned then sure, AIO is the way to go!
Edited by JohnnyG01 - 7/8/16 at 5:33pm
Thy Old Lady
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Thy Old Lady
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post #9923 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by glitchmaster000 View Post

Hi so i have a Gigabyte EP45-UD3R motherboard and i was wonder has anyone put an X5460 Xeon in there before? if so can someone give me their custom BIOS with both the 771 and 775 microcodes? thanks.
Found this in my download file pretty sure it is the original f-12 bios file and the modified file you need. If any one can check it that would help. modep45ud3rf12.zip 1182k .zip file
post #9924 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKDxpress View Post

Found this in my download file pretty sure it is the original f-12 bios file and the modified file you need. If any one can check it that would help. modep45ud3rf12.zip 1182k .zip file
thanks for it. i will read the readme file and see if it has the microcode that i need for my CPU
post #9925 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKDxpress View Post

Found this in my download file pretty sure it is the original f-12 bios file and the modified file you need. If any one can check it that would help. modep45ud3rf12.zip 1182k .zip file
Hey I may have given you the wrong Bios. Found this one on a cd I had saved along with drivers. GigabyteGA-EP45-UD3RXeonX5460CPUSupportBy1234s282.zip 606k .zip file
post #9926 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by RKDxpress View Post

Hey I may have given you the wrong Bios. Found this one on a cd I had saved along with drivers. GigabyteGA-EP45-UD3RXeonX5460CPUSupportBy1234s282.zip 606k .zip file
wait does this have the 775 microcodes with the 771 codes? if it doesnt after i flash i cant use my q9300 or any 775 cpus anymore.
post #9927 of 12470
***** we got it from the same store too tongue.gif
Looks like a good quality cooler, but i cant know how it performs until i get my Xeon. I will definatly give an update.
I am also going to add a second fan i have laying arround, and go for the push-pull setup. Noise is not a problem for me tongue.gif

I am am pretty sure than its an anwsered question, but i ll go ahead and ask. Is the 4pin EPS connector enough for the X5460?
After some googling i found that the 4pin can deliver a max of 144watts on the CPU. X5460 is a 120W TDP chip.
So i guess i will be just fine on stock speeds. Now what about overclocking? I know that it varries from chip to chip, but on a more general scale,
is it enough to power an overclocked chip? Nothing extreme. Lets say 4Ghz.
And again, i am talking about a temporary solution, until i get a better PSU

edit: whyucensorLM-F-AO oc.net? lol
post #9928 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by glitchmaster000 View Post

wait does this have the 775 microcodes with the 771 codes? if it doesnt after i flash i cant use my q9300 or any 775 cpus anymore.
this may not have both. When new code goes in something has to come out. All the bios were made for me by others. There is a site called Bios Mod that helped me.
post #9929 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by Goustoulos View Post

***** we got it from the same store too tongue.gif
Looks like a good quality cooler, but i cant know how it performs until i get my Xeon. I will definatly give an update.
I am also going to add a second fan i have laying arround, and go for the push-pull setup. Noise is not a problem for me tongue.gif

I am am pretty sure than its an anwsered question, but i ll go ahead and ask. Is the 4pin EPS connector enough for the X5460?
After some googling i found that the 4pin can deliver a max of 144watts on the CPU. X5460 is a 120W TDP chip.
So i guess i will be just fine on stock speeds. Now what about overclocking? I know that it varries from chip to chip, but on a more general scale,
is it enough to power an overclocked chip? Nothing extreme. Lets say 4Ghz.
And again, i am talking about a temporary solution, until i get a better PSU

edit: whyucensorLM-F-AO oc.net? lol

Well my motherboard had a little plastic thingy that covers 4 of the 8 holes on the EPS header and i never removed it, works (stock) from 2007 with the 4pin PSU plug in it.
On the other hand, on my old tests the CPU was maybe stable at 4GHz (only did one IntelBurnTest and that is not proof of 100% stability), but it failed to pass the 4.2GHz test. Maybe i needed to go higher in voltage, maybe that the chip's OC limit (each chip is unique and that is only an C0 one), or maybe it needed more power and the 4pin is to blame..
IDK, guys more experienced than me will have to help you on that...

Thy Old Lady
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Thy Old Lady
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Kingston SSDNow 40GB Westrn Digital WD20PURX Purple 2TB Thermaltake Big Typhoon (GPU) Raijintek Themis (CPU) 
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post #9930 of 12470
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyG01 View Post

Well my motherboard had a little plastic thingy that covers 4 of the 8 holes on the EPS header and i never removed it, works (stock) from 2007 with the 4pin PSU plug in it.
On the other hand, on my old tests the CPU was maybe stable at 4GHz (only did one IntelBurnTest and that is not proof of 100% stability), but it failed to pass the 4.2GHz test. Maybe i needed to go higher in voltage, maybe that the chip's OC limit (each chip is unique and that is only an C0 one), or maybe it needed more power and the 4pin is to blame..
IDK, guys more experienced than me will have to help you on that...


if you are using a quad i would use the 8 pin tongue.gif
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fx8350
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x58 fun
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some off brand ssd  custom loop 
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