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[Build Log]McRey DANGER BLUE Desk

post #1 of 35
Thread Starter 
After my last build The Danger Blue Project as a noob, now i came with somthing mor compleks!! Inspired from what i see and learn from overclock.ne forum and others forum about Case modding and water cooling mooding... Now I present my 2nd Project....biggrin.gif
McRey DESK



Case
MCREY DESK

Hardware
CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K ivy bridge
Mbd: ASUS P8Z77-V DELUXE
Mem: Corsair DDR3 XMS3 Dominator PC12800 16GB Kit - CMP8GX3M2A1600C9 (4x4Gb)
GPU: Zotac Geforce GT 670 2048MB DDR5
PSU: Seasonic X750 750W Full Modular - Gold
SSD: Intel SSD 120GB 520 Series
HDD: Western Digital 1TB SATA3 64MB - Caviar Black


Water Cooling part planning:
Water Block cpu :EK-Supremacy - Nickel, - CSQ (the nickle top will chenged with TOP Plexi - Supremacy Clean CSQ)
Water Block gpu :EK-FC670 GTX - Nickel + EK-FC670 GTX Backplate - Black
Water Block ram :EK-RAM Dominator X4 - Nickel CSQ (the top will chenged with TOP Plexi - RAM Monarch X4 Clean CSQ)
pump : Laing D5 Vario 12V DC Pump (MCP 655) Strong 37 watt (planing to use dual pump, but still count my budget..biggrin.gif)
reservoir :EK-BAY SPIN Reservoir - Acetal CSQ ( Planing to changed it with two EK-RES X3 110 white)
Radiator :Magicool 180 Slim Radiator - single 180/35mm Thick

Fitting :
-Rigid Revolver Compression Fitting 3/8" x 1/2" Diamond Knurled 4 Pack - Nickel Plated Brass - Silver
-Enzotech Rotary Fitting G 1/4 Thread - Male to Male
-Bitspower Crystal T-Block - 180 Degree Water Cooling Accessory
-Bitspower Crystal L-Block


Tubbing : PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing - 24in - Clear + 1/2in stainless steel pipe

Other Accesories
-Akust Rustless Screw #6-32 x 6.35
-Akust Rustless Screw M3x25
-Akust Rustless Screw M4x12
-ModMyToys 4-Pin Power Distribution PCB - 8-Way Block
-XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor V2 - Blue/White
-XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor V2 - Blue/White + G1/4 Plug Sensor

For fan plan, is positive air pressure, which i use :
Fans for radiator Exhaust:
-SilverStone (SST-AP181) 180 mm 130 cfm at 1200rpm 2 unit

Intake (Intake fans total 220 CFM)
-Bit Fenix Spectre Pro All-White LED Fan Series - 200mm - Blue LED 148.72 CFM 2 unit
-Xigmatek XLF-F2006 20CM White LED, 3-pin (Blue Blades) 76 CFM, 1 unit


This is The Mcrey Desk Sketch



My 1st Mod complete build 'The Danger Blue' Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)








Edited by McRey - 3/27/14 at 10:18pm
post #2 of 35
Thread Starter 
thumb.gifsmile.gif
post #3 of 35
Thread Starter 
Already make my 1st shopping for this project at PPcs last nigh:D
And this is the list of my shooping:
3 x FilterRight™ 200mm Aluminum Fan Filter (Cooler Master HAF and 840 Cases) - Clear
2 x Mod/Smart Pre-Wired Vandal Switch Cable Assembly (Spade-Style) - Momentary
- Cable: Stock Cable
- Sleeve Color: Black
- Heatshrink Color: Black
1 x Vandal Resistant Illuminated Switch 16mm - Blue Ring
- Vandal Switch Style: Momentary Switch Style (ie. Power & Reset)
1 x Vandal Resistant Illuminated Switch 16mm - Blue Dot
- Vandal Switch Style: Momentary Switch Style (ie. Power & Reset)
1 x *** NEW *** Phobya Rectangular Toggle Switch - Black with Blue LED - Unipolar
6 x Hard Disk Drive Anti-Vibration Screws - 4 Pack
1 x Ultra All Purpose Computer Assembly Screws
1 x Phobya SATA Power Y-cable SATA Socket to 2x SATA Plug 15cm - UV Reactive Blue
3 x Enzotech Rotary Fitting G 1/4 Thread - Male to Male
3 x Monsoon G1/4 Premium Silicone O-Ring 10 Pack - UV White
2 x *** NEW *** Bit Fenix Spectre Pro All-White LED Fan Series - 200mm - Blue LED
3 x Rigid Revolver Compression Fitting 3/8" x 1/2" Straight Knurled 4 Pack - Nickel Plate Brass - Silver
1 x FilterRight™ 140mm Aluminum Fan Filter - Clear
1 x Bitspower Replacement Blade for Bitspower Flow Indicator - Blue
1 x *** NEW *** XSPC LCD Temperature Sensor V2 - Blue/White + G1/4 Plug Sensor

Still a lot of things to do
post #4 of 35
Thread Starter 
Finally......rolleyes.gif
Finish with the design thing.......its really tiresome, since this is the first time i using google sketch!!
This is the satinless steel part ( the stucture of the table)



and this is the main part of my table..... part where i put all the pc stuff:D for the material i use plywood 9mm or mdf 9mm



And this is the look when i put it all together (without the glass on the top)


Done..... since i dont have tools to build the stainless steel work, next week will go to stainless steel workshop to build it!!
post #5 of 35
Just a suggestion, you might want to consider adding some lateral strength to the legs or they will tend to slide outward at the base.

Are you simply sitting a piece of glass on the top, perhaps on rubber pads or similar? If so, not having a thick diaphragm connected at the top (solid piece of wood for example) will amplify the legs wanting to slide outward, because there is no means for this desk to transfer or carry the weight of the computer "box" at the center. All-in-all my guess is if you build this as-is, you will have quite a bit of unwanted deflection and wobbling.

You might want to buy some toothpicks, or even better some 1/8" x 1/8" basswood (from your local hobby shop), and build a scale model (1/2" = 1'-0" works well... or if metric 1:24). Build this model first, and press on it carefully with your fingers at various points where you would suspect weight to be located. The real desk will of course be stronger, but the model gives you an idea of how it will tend to behave.
Edited by hingfdiuh - 10/18/13 at 9:21pm
post #6 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hingfdiuh View Post

Just a suggestion, you might want to consider adding some lateral strength to the legs or they will tend to slide outward at the base.

Are you simply sitting a piece of glass on the top, perhaps on rubber pads or similar? If so, not having a thick diaphragm connected at the top (solid piece of wood for example) will amplify the legs wanting to slide outward, because there is no means for this desk to transfer or carry the weight of the computer "box" at the center. All-in-all my guess is if you build this as-is, you will have quite a bit of unwanted deflection and wobbling.

You might want to buy some toothpicks, or even better some 1/8" x 1/8" basswood (from your local hobby shop), and build a scale model (1/2" = 1'-0" works well... or if metric 1:24). Build this model first, and press on it carefully with your fingers at various points where you would suspect weight to be located. The real desk will of course be stronger, but the model gives you an idea of how it will tend to behave.


Thanks for the suggestion bro!
About the legs, thought ure right! Im planing to add some lateral strength for it!! Just consider the astetic look! Its gonna be like this


And about the glass sitting, im planing to using 2,5cm glass holder on the left side( area with the red mark) and use 0.5 ruber on the right side (area with yellow mark)


Do tou think i need this extra legs( The leg part with blue color)???


or maybe like this one


Which one u think is better and stronger?
Edited by McRey - 10/19/13 at 10:08pm
post #7 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by McRey View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by hingfdiuh View Post

Just a suggestion, you might want to consider adding some lateral strength to the legs or they will tend to slide outward at the base.

Are you simply sitting a piece of glass on the top, perhaps on rubber pads or similar? If so, not having a thick diaphragm connected at the top (solid piece of wood for example) will amplify the legs wanting to slide outward, because there is no means for this desk to transfer or carry the weight of the computer "box" at the center. All-in-all my guess is if you build this as-is, you will have quite a bit of unwanted deflection and wobbling.

You might want to buy some toothpicks, or even better some 1/8" x 1/8" basswood (from your local hobby shop), and build a scale model (1/2" = 1'-0" works well... or if metric 1:24). Build this model first, and press on it carefully with your fingers at various points where you would suspect weight to be located. The real desk will of course be stronger, but the model gives you an idea of how it will tend to behave.


Thanks for the suggestion bro!
About the legs, thought ure right! Im planing to add some lateral strength for it!! Just consider the astetic look! Its gonna be like this


And about the glass sitting, im planing to using 2,5cm glass holder on the left side( area with the red mark) and use 0.5 ruber on the right side (area with yellow mark)


Do tou think i need this extra legs( The leg part with blue color)???

I'll leave the aesthetics to you, but yes I believe you will need something similar to the added leg you have shown. The lateral members you added will add greater stability as well, so you're on the right track. Another important thing to consider, is which pieces will be continuous and which pieces will be interrupted at the points of intersection. As of right now, your sketchup model shows all members running continuously through one another. If you don't want to build a physical model then at least refine your sketchup model to reflect how you think you will cut each piece prior to welding. Welding theoretically fuses two materials together with a bond which is stronger than the base material itself, however, the complexity or simplicity of constructing this thing will depend greatly on the pieces you start with. Are you intending to do butt-joint welds throughout?

I normally would not comment this overtly, so don't take my thoughts as negative, but it seemed like you were very close to beginning construction and didn't want you to be disappointed at the outcome. Stainless steel isn't cheap or easy to weld, so it's important that you get it right the first time, yes?
Edited by hingfdiuh - 10/19/13 at 9:31pm
post #8 of 35
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hingfdiuh View Post

I'll leave the aesthetics to you, but yes I believe you will need something similar to the added leg you have shown. The lateral members you added will add greater stability as well, so you're on the right track. Another important thing to consider, is which pieces will be continuous and which pieces will be interrupted at the points of intersection. As of right now, your sketchup model shows all members running continuously through one another. If you don't want to build a physical model then at least refine your sketchup model to reflect how you think you will cut each piece prior to welding. Welding theoretically fuses two materials together with a bond which is stronger than the base material itself, however, the complexity or simplicity of constructing this thing will depend greatly on the pieces you start with. Are you intending to do butt-joint welds throughout?

I normally would not comment this overtly, so don't take my thoughts as negative, but it seemed like you were very close to beginning construction and didn't want you to be disappointed at the outcome. Stainless steel isn't cheap or easy to weld, so it's important that you get it right the first time, yes?


Thanks bro ure really right, the stainless stell isnt cheaps thats why until now i stil hold the fabricated of my desk coz i want it perfect without any small mistake that gonna make regrat! And yeah, im planning to butt-joint welds throughout!
Btw, which one u think is stronger...
this one


or this one
post #9 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by McRey View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by hingfdiuh View Post

I'll leave the aesthetics to you, but yes I believe you will need something similar to the added leg you have shown. The lateral members you added will add greater stability as well, so you're on the right track. Another important thing to consider, is which pieces will be continuous and which pieces will be interrupted at the points of intersection. As of right now, your sketchup model shows all members running continuously through one another. If you don't want to build a physical model then at least refine your sketchup model to reflect how you think you will cut each piece prior to welding. Welding theoretically fuses two materials together with a bond which is stronger than the base material itself, however, the complexity or simplicity of constructing this thing will depend greatly on the pieces you start with. Are you intending to do butt-joint welds throughout?

I normally would not comment this overtly, so don't take my thoughts as negative, but it seemed like you were very close to beginning construction and didn't want you to be disappointed at the outcome. Stainless steel isn't cheap or easy to weld, so it's important that you get it right the first time, yes?


Thanks bro ure really right, the stainless stell isnt cheaps thats why until now i stil hold the fabricated of my desk coz i want it perfect without any small mistake that gonna make regrat! And yeah, im planning to butt-joint welds throughout!
Btw, which one u think is stronger...
this one


or this one

The first one is stronger because it is a direct path to the ground instead of transferring the weight to the back leg like the second one shows. The second one at an angle is not a 45 degree either, which means you will have more force transferred in the x direction than in the y direction, thereby requiring that leg to resist lateral force. Seeing as how you don't have any angled members anywhere else in your design you might want to consider also maintaining a similar "design language", and stick with the straight up and down leg. That or introduce angled members elsewhere by adding or replacing to what you have. Just my opinion.
post #10 of 35
Thread Starter 
Ok bro hingfdiuh, thats what i thought to!! So i will go use the stright leg. Just gonna add some stainless steel plate to make it looks nice then!
Really thanks for ure suggest an opinion bro! thumb.gif
And hope u will still gave me advice for my desk project smile.gif
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