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Gaming and mouse response BIOS optimization guide for modern PC hardware - Page 207

post #2061 of 3544
Quote:
Originally Posted by noshalans View Post

Hello guys and sorry for my bad english.

Disabling HPET in both BIOS and Windows, gave me 4-5 frames per second loss.

For example, if I was able to run CS:GO to 200 FPS (stable), now is somehow capped to 195 FPS.

This also happens in other games i tried, like COD:BO2.

Is it a known issue?


Another question, for a Win7+GTX970 user, are better 344.11 or 344.16? cache shader ON or OFF?

Thanks!

Disabling HPET may or may not be a good decision. Some systems run better with it on, some do not (mostly based on motherboard). I recommend you benchmark and test several more games and applications and decide for yourself.

As to the video driver, I've heard good things about 344.11, but personally I have made good experiences with 347.25, which has shown to be really good performance-wise. If you want a more recent driver, try 353.47 Hotfix. The most recent drivers like branches 355 and 358 all come with tradeoffs.

No idea about shader cache. I can only think of positive effects (such as performance benefits), but people in here swear by the guru's words and turn it off without actually doing any testing.
post #2062 of 3544
But what's the point turning on hpet in bios ? Windows automatically uses TSC
post #2063 of 3544
Quote:
Originally Posted by altf4 View Post

But what's the point turning on hpet in bios ? Windows automatically uses TSC

As with all things in life, your mileage may vary. Tweaks that may work out well for you might not for others and vice versa.
post #2064 of 3544
Quote:
Originally Posted by noshalans View Post

Hello guys and sorry for my bad english.

Disabling HPET in both BIOS and Windows, gave me 4-5 frames per second loss.

For example, if I was able to run CS:GO to 200 FPS (stable), now is somehow capped to 195 FPS.

This also happens in other games i tried, like COD:BO2.

Is it a known issue?


Another question, for a Win7+GTX970 user, are better 344.11 or 344.16? cache shader ON or OFF?

Thanks!
Look up your motherboard, and see what other people have determined to be the best. According to a few sources when I researched this, leaving it default in Windows (TSC), is best.

Shader Cache should be on, as it helps. It caused stutters and what not for me with NVIDIA 337.88 WHQL, which was the first driver that allowed you to change Shader Cache on/off, but drivers after that it doesn't do that.

Every setup responds differently I believe, so it's best to do some benchmarking and test a few different Drivers. Popular top choices would be: 344.11 WHQL, 347.09 BETA, 347.25 WHQL, 353.38 Hot Fix. I think 344.16 WHQL is basically the same as 344.11, but for the GTX 960/970. I list 347.25 & 353.38, due to the "THE GTX 780 TI & SLI – END OF LIFE – DRIVER PERFORMANCE ANALYSIS" blog. Check it out, he tests a bunch of drivers and lists the results.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndiWandi View Post

Disabling HPET may or may not be a good decision. Some systems run better with it on, some do not (mostly based on motherboard). I recommend you benchmark and test several more games and applications and decide for yourself.

As to the video driver, I've heard good things about 344.11, but personally I have made good experiences with 347.25, which has shown to be really good performance-wise. If you want a more recent driver, try 353.47 Hotfix. The most recent drivers like branches 355 and 358 all come with tradeoffs.

No idea about shader cache. I can only think of positive effects (such as performance benefits), but people in here swear by the guru's words and turn it off without actually doing any testing.
Did you mean 353.38 Hotfix? I've been debating testing out 347.25 WHQL again, check out the link I posted above, he ran single GPU tests and SLI tests, so there's tons of data for a bunch of drivers.
post #2065 of 3544
Quote:
Originally Posted by agsz View Post

Did you mean 353.38 Hotfix? I've been debating testing out 347.25 WHQL again, check out the link I posted above, he ran single GPU tests and SLI tests, so there's tons of data for a bunch of drivers.

353.38 is basically the same as 353.47 - same branch, version a little later though as there were some fixes made due to program incompatibilities like Sony Vegas. Essentially the same as 353.38.
Ran 347.25 for a while as well and found no major problems except for a little lower overclock.

Yes, I'm aware of the link which has been incredibly helpful in choosing the right driver. I rebenched with my GTX 780 and by and large came up with the same results.
I hope that dude updates his post sometime, if he still has that 780 Ti.
All later drivers are a no-no for me as they refuse to work with some older games I still play.

I should also mention that at least for me, there we no major differences in tested DPC latency across several driver branches. 347.25 tested as well as 353.38. Not sure about the newer drivers, though.
Edited by AndiWandi - 10/27/15 at 5:50am
post #2066 of 3544
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndiWandi View Post

353.38 is basically the same as 353.47 - same branch, version a little later though as there were some fixes made due to program incompatibilities like Sony Vegas. Essentially the same as 353.38.
Ran 347.25 for a while as well and found no major problems except for a little lower overclock.

Yes, I'm aware of the link which has been incredibly helpful in choosing the right driver. I rebenched with my GTX 780 and by and large came up with the same results.
I hope that dude updates his post sometime, if he still has that 780 Ti.
All later drivers are a no-no for me as they refuse to work with some older games I still play.

I should also mention that at least for me, there we no major differences in tested DPC latency across several driver branches. 347.25 tested as well as 353.38. Not sure about the newer drivers, though.
I spoke to him a few weeks ago, he encountered some PC issues unfortunately. Hopefully he gets his PC up and running again soon.
post #2067 of 3544
I think the best solution for most situations is to have HPET enabled in BIOS, but not forced as the only system timer in Windows (bcdedit /deletevalue useplatformclock in cmd prompt gives element not found when HPET is not being forced on or off by the OS).

While having HPET enabled or disabled in BIOS typically gives a nominal % difference in FPS, having it enabled can have very positive effects on USB polling precision, making it much more consistent and lower maximum deviation. This is quite easy to test on your own system with MouseTester if you know a good general method for getting a polling precision graph.

If polling precision has visually appreciable improvement, it's more than worth losing a few FPS, even though you may very well gain FPS with HPET enabled. Furthermore, my DPC latency was more consistent with a lower average with HPET enabled, even though disabled would give a good proportion of lower DPC latency measurements, but significantly more variance.

The reason HPET enabled but not forced is generally better is because since Vista, Windows is actually pretty intelligent about selecting the optimal timers to use for various tasks and functions. There are numerous routines and calls that are more efficient when they can use HPET, and processors generally are much more efficient about changing power states, even from the lightest non full operation C1 state.

Still, some systems just seem to disagree completely with HPET enabled. Really there are only two common reasons that you would want HPET disabled. One is if it gives noticeable stuttering (you'll know if it is, trust me), which can often be visualized by fluctuations or spikes in DPC latency. The other is if it is giving you a hit on FPS of > ~5%, at which point the lost FPS is probably not worth the other advantages of having HPET enabled.
Edited by VolsAndJezuz - 10/27/15 at 6:51am
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post #2068 of 3544
Quote:
Originally Posted by VolsAndJezuz View Post

I think the best solution for most situations is to have HPET enabled in BIOS, but not forced as the only system timer in Windows (bcdedit /deletevalue useplatformclock in cmd prompt gives element not found when HPET is not being forced on or off by the OS).

.

How would one go about this
   
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post #2069 of 3544
Your motherboard has the option to Enable HPET from the BIOS or UEFI.

After you've changed this and rebooted into Windows, hit Win + R, type cmd, hit enter, copy the code below, right-click in the cmd prompt and choose Paste, and hit enter to execute.
Code:
bcdedit /deletevalue useplatformclock

If you get a message ending with 'Element not found', it was already set correctly. Other messages indicate you've successfully change HPET from being forced on or off by the OS.
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CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
SilverStone Fortress FT05B Logitech G900 - de-braided and de-battery'd (w/... Logitech G640 3mm ASUS Xonar Essence STX II (w/ UNi modded driver) 
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post #2070 of 3544
Thread Starter 
Just ordered what I consider one of the most interesting pieces of hardware out right now, so will be doing a review soon after it gets here in like a week:

Onda v919 Core M

http://www.banggood.com/Onda-V919-3G-Intel-Core-M-5Y10c-Dual-Core-2_0GHz-9_7-Inch-Win8-Tablet-p-988289.html

It's the same screen as an Ipad except with Intel Core M internals. There's been many tablets in China released like this before, but they all used Bay Trail and Cherry Trail SoC, which is 1/2 as powerful as the Core M.

The first reason this tablet is interesting is because most tablet and laptop screens look terrible. They either have terrible contrast and colors, or a huge gap between the touch surface and screen which gives it a bad white haze that also makes you go crosseyed looking at it. The third problem most have is pulse width modulation, a strobing 200hz that usually gives you a huge headache after 5 minutes.

Out of all tablet screens, only the Surface 3 pro, Ipad screen, and Samsung AMOLED screens actually look good. The Surface 3 pro has PWM under 55% brightness, meaning you're forced to use it at 200cdm2, and the Samsung has PWM at all levels, leaving the Ipad screen as the only known good one.

For the older Bay Trail and Cherry Trail tablets, the most demanding thing they can run really is just the PSP emulator. The Core M can run most PS2 and Wii emulator games, while also playing games like Resident Evil 5, Skyrim, Tomb Raider, etc, at 45-60 FPS at 720p resolution, or games like League of Legends at 60 fps with 1080p on medium. So it has just enough power to do some interesting stuff.

Picture of some other guy benching it below. In comparison, the best Intel Atom gets 900-1000 single core score, an i3-4020Y Surface 3 Pro gets 1550, and a 15w TDP broadwell i3-5200u in newest laptops gets 2200.




All Chinese tablets are known to be a lottery where some have problems and some don't, but here's the pluses and minuses of this one.

Plus

- About as good as you can get for screen

- If you have the balls to open it, it has a real m.2 SSD instead of emc, so you can upgrade it to one of the 256GB ones while also having an SSD card slot for a total of 384 gigs of storage (might be a 512g version too, but not sure at the smallest m.2 size).

- BIOS is supposedly fully unlocked even exposing things like overclocking settings

- Can dual boot Win 10 + Android 5

- Probably the most powerful x86 device you can get in the smallest form factor

- Best thing I've seen for creating an all in one console emulator box

Minuses

- The default BIOS has a setting where the CPU throttles to 800mhz if the tablet surface reaches 40c. You need to raise it higher to prevent throttling.

- Reports of both Wifi and Bluetooth dropping a lot in versions at release. People surmised that the manufacturer forgot to plug in the antennas or something. Not sure if this is still a problem.

- Some come with only Win 10 in Chinese, or Win 10 + Android 5 in Chinese. Some even send you a KMS Win 10. If you try to change language, it won't boot, so you need to install your own Win 8.1, Win 10, or Ubuntu with USB stick. If you install Windows 10 English within Chinese Windows via USB stick and don't touch partitions, supposedly the Android dual boot functionality will stay.

- The Android 5 it comes with is in Chinese (but can be changed to English), but supposedly doesn't come with Gapps installed, and is difficult but possible to get it installed. The device doesn't appear when connected to a host computer via USB so will be hard to root as well. It's possible a good Android ROM could be created for it by a 3rd party since it's been done for the Chinese Teclast Air II Bay Trail tablet.
Edited by r0ach - 10/28/15 at 4:24am
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