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[Build Log] TRiCLOPS (HAF-XB, RIVE BE, LIQUID!!!!) (BACK-2-BLAHH)

144K views 3K replies 50 participants last post by  SortOfGrim 
#1 ·
Hey guys. So this is my first build log. It's also my first Case Mod and first Loop. I've been planning on starting this build log for a while but have changed my mind so many times on how I'm gonna put it all together. I basically bought my HAF XB back in late May or Early June, it was originally gonna be a Haswell build but i decided to wait for IB-E. Then when IB-E released, I had the 290x and RIVE BE right around the corner so more waiting......

In the mean time, my plans for my mod and custom loop have changed soooooo many times.

Main Components:
4930k (Purchased)
RIVE BE (Purchased)
Asrock x79 Extreme6/GB (Temporary while RIVE BE is RMA)
3 x AMD r9 290x's (1 bought. 2 to go...)
4x8GB G.Skill Trident X 2400MHz CL10 Kit
SSD's - 2 x Samsung EVO 250GB in Raid0 (1 bought. 1 to go...)
HD's - WD Black 4TB HDD
Optical - Silverstone FP58 w/ Panasonic Slotload Bluray
Antec HCP-1300 Platinum Sleeved with LC Telios White/Gray/Red & Black Fusion

Cooling: (All Purchased)
Alphacool XT45 360
XSPC EX360
Alphacool ST30 240
Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition)
Apogee Drive II (For Now)
XSPC Photon 170 Res (For Now)
Aquaero 6 Pro
7 Gentle Typhoon AP-00's (2150RPM)
3 Phobya NB E-Loops (Red & Black 1600RPM) (Red LED's Modded In)
3 Gentle Typhoon AP-15's
Koolance 360 Shroud
Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Flowmeter
Phobya Inline Male/Female Matte Black Temp Sensors

Planned:
EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Copper/Plexi (Purchased)
Either Dual 35x's or Dual Aquacomputer D5's. Dunno if i can make the room for the D5's with all my other mods
Decided to give acrylic a shot for my tubing. Haven't ordered anything for it yet.
Undecided on Coolant/Dye
Also considering either trying to fit 1 or 2 short Aqualis Reservoirs (Vertical) or FrozenQ Tri-Spirals (Horizontal)

I'll be painting my rig White as the main color with Red as a 2nd color. Undecided if I'll use a 3rd color and if that 3rd color would be Gray/Silver or Black

This is roughly what it should look like from the front when I'm done.
Except I plan on putting a MNPCTech Overkill 3D Grill on the front of the shroud, and the fans will be red with red LED's.

I already have like the next 10 pages of update pics already taken. I have a TON of pics in a folder dedicated to this build. I just gotta sort through and choose the best ones so bear with me guys
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#2 ·
These are my original orders from PerformancePCs and FrozenCPU I received months ago. My plans have changed alot since then and I won't be using a bunch of the stuff i ordered.




Lots more pics to come.....
 
#4 ·
My front mounted 360 will have the Phobya E-Loops in Push and GT AP-15's in Pull
My bottom 360 will have GT AP-00's in Push
My Side mounted 240 will have GT AP-00's in either Push or Pull
My UT60 120 right now is gonna have GT AP-00's Push/Pull. Might put an LED fan on the rear for Pull, haven't decided yet.

The reason I'm putting all that out there right now is because the main thing's i need to order right now and am having trouble deciding on are my 2 x 360's and 240.

Obviously I have space restrictions because i wanted a portable rig. Pretty much every rad I'm gonna have in there except the 120 will be the result of my trusty Dremel
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My front mounted rad needs to be 398mm long or less if I wanna be able to clip in the front panel. That pretty much limits me to either BI GT Stealth, EK Coolstream XT, Feser Admiral, Magical (HAHAHA Had to leave that scratched out cuz it made me laugh when i noticed) Magicool Extreme 360, or XSPC EX360. If I went with something like the Admiral I'd have to make some major mods. Right now 35-40mm seems to be the sweet spot if i wanna go easy on myself, so I'm thinking of going with the EX360

My bottom 360 has enough room for a 45-50mm rad and has enough room length wise. I'm thinking of using an XT45 just because it's gonna be pushing against the back of my chassis so I'm planning on having a Drain Plug and maybe QDC coming out of the front or bottom ports with the loop running through the top ports

My 240 needs to be around 37mm or less and the shorter the better on the 120mm axis. I'm leaning towards the EX240 Multiport because that area will be a little cluttered and the extra ports might be useful.

Any input on anything I just said will be more than welcome. Choosing and ordering my rads has been holding me up from completing alot of the mods I've already started.
 
#5 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielkim624 View Post

Good luck with your build, do you know when r9 290x will be available?

edit : also, very cool name, TRiCLOPS
Thanks!! It'll be an even cooler name when you see why it's gonna look like a Triclops
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The 290/290x is "Supposed" to be out by the end of the month just like the RIVE BE
 
#7 ·
Martin's actually talked about that a few times. No it's not bad as long as they're not far apart in RPM range. More than 500 could become problematic. Actually with noisy fans, it's been known to help by matching them with different fans. Also the NB E-Loops are ONLY meant for Push. The blades bulge out at the front. When you use em in pull you need to use a shroud (which i do anyway) or they'll hit the fins. Also they're alot noisier in pull. Most people with E-Loops running Push/Pull match em up with something different

I needed the Phobya E-Loops for the "TRiCLOPS" effect on the front. They have the Red Transparent Blades and I'm installing LED's in them. They'll have the Koolance 3 Fan Shroud around them and MNPCTech Overkill 3D 360 Grill in front of them. Should look tight when i finish it.

BTW, I already have like the next 10 pages of update pics already taken. I have a TON of pics in a folder dedicated to this build. I just gotta sort through and choose the best ones so bear with me guys
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#11 ·
This is going to be cool. Ready for some updates from your collection of pics.
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#12 ·
Thanx guys
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Ok so considering all that I've already done and am not gonna even use, I guess going in chronological order will be the easiest way for me to get this going =P

So here's the first mod that i did












When i first ordered WC gear, I ordered a UT60 280, XT45 240, UT60 120. That was my original plans. That 280 came out exactly the way i wanted to and i was gonna sorta seal it in with some modders mesh that i bought.
That was about 4 months ago. It wasn't until i reposted a pic of the rad a few days ago in the HAF XB Club that i decided i don't like the way it looks anymore. So that's tossed in the Scrap Pile =)

I was originally using those Phobya 20mm Plexi shrouds cuz they have a bunch of LED holes in em. Then i decided they stuck out too much and set off on a mission to dye my Vipers red and was gonna install LED's directly in the fans.

Apparently the tutorial that i read for dyeing fans was from before Rit changed their dye formula. It used to work better with plastics. This is the best i could get them with about $100 worth of Rit dye



I found a great tutorial here on OCN by cpachris that explained about Rit changing their formula and shows the best way to dye plastics. It's HERE for anybody that's interested. Since I'm not using my 280 anymore I'm not gonna be dyeing Vipers anymore. I might try it on a few of my GT's but i don't know how dyeing Gray to Red will come out.

For anybody that might not know the purpose of dyeing instead of painting......
Paint has weight to it and can throw off the balance of your fans. Turning great rad fans into normal loud fans. Dye has no weight to it and chemically bonds with the plastic, so it doesn't throw off the balance at all.

The next thing i had to deal with was the 240 i was planning on putting in the bottom


I thought i took pics of it, but after masking it off, I used a hammer and a Punch and pushed all those Cable Routing holes down so they were poking out the bottom





To cool off the rad, i needed to be able to mount fans underneath the chassis. The stock XB feet don't leave enough room to put fans down there. I needed to not only have fans down there but have enough room for some airflow. After doing a bunch of searching online, the tallest feet i could find were about an inch tall, which is just about the size of fans. That wouldn't leave any room for airflow. I wish i knew about FannBlade's back then, but i didn't, so kinda modded together 3 sets of feet. Lian Li SD-01B, SD-03, & SD-04.
Here's some unboxing pics with the SD-03's, SD-04's, Silverstone FP58, and a Lian Li PSU Bracket I'm not gonna use




And this is what the SD-01's looked like



I figured since the SD-03's are called "Spacers" that they'd all stack together. That wasn't the case. I had to use my Dremel to make it work.



You can see how they didn't fit together
 
#15 ·
I had to do this to all 3 sets of feet



To make them look like this



Now I'll have airflow
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Ok, I'm gonna try to go to sleep. I've been stressin myself crazy today over trying to make a final decision on the 2 360's and 240. I really wanna order em tomorrow. I'll also add more pics tomorrow of other stuff I've already done
 
#17 ·
The feet came out looking good. And I did not even know that you could dye the fans instead of painting them... this has given me ideas galore. Cheers.
 
#18 ·
Thanx!! Yeah if you read that thread i linked to, he dye's Tubing, Sleeving, Molex Connectors, and a Fan. I'm ordering dye from the place he ends up using after figuring out Rit changed their formula. I may dye SOME of my tubing too depending how i decide on my colorscheme. Also, I'm gonna end up painting the feet too, again when i decide better on my color scheme =P.

THIS is the original tut i used. Worth a read, but keep in mind rit's formula's different now.
 
#19 ·
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

Thanx!! Yeah if you read that thread i linked to, he dye's Tubing, Sleeving, Molex Connectors, and a Fan. I'm ordering dye from the place he ends up using after figuring out Rit changed their formula. I may dye SOME of my tubing too depending how i decide on my color scheme. Also, I'm gonna end up painting the feet too, again when i decide better on my color scheme =P.

THIS is the original tut i used. Worth a read, but keep in mind rit's formula's different now.
I had not followed the link from the XB thread, but I did read through the one you just linked; how did I miss this somewhere while I was doing research for my case mod. Fan dying never came up. It is so much better than painting. .That makes me want to get Noctua fans. I have always hated the color scheme.... but black fans with a green frame could be possible now. My research on this has commenced. Cheers.
 
#20 ·
Not the XB thread. Top of this page =P
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

I found a great tutorial here on OCN by cpachris that explained about Rit changing their formula and shows the best way to dye plastics. It's HERE for anybody that's interested. Since I'm not using my 280 anymore I'm not gonna be dyeing Vipers anymore. I might try it on a few of my GT's but i don't know how dyeing Gray to Red will come out.
You shouldn't have a problem painting the fan casing. Just painting the blades can compromise the fan.

Don't buy Rit like the OC3D tut says. They changed their formula. Use the dye cpachris ends up using. You'll have much better results.
THIS stuff. U need the Dye Carrier too.
 
#21 ·
OK, so when i went to bed for a few hours earlier, I thought more about my rad space. I'm 95% sure I'm going with XT45 360 on my bottom rad, 120 UT60 for my rear rad, EX360 for my front rad, and I just need to decide between EX240 Multiport or SP30 240 for my side rad.

The reason I'm having trouble with this particular one is cuz i know the EX rads have higher fin density. I'm not positive if one set of Gentle Tyhpoon 2150's will be enough for it. I have my XT45 360 and UT60 120 for low density purposes when i don't need tons of cooling. Then my EX360 in push/pull when i need a little extra. I just need to figure out if I'd be better off going with the low density SP30 240 or higher density EX240 MP. GT-00's have decent Static Pressure so I'm borderline right now.

I'm gonna try going back to sleep soon. I know i have a problem when Rad Space is keeping me up at night LOLLLLLLLL. Anyway if any1 has anything useful to chime in on this particular decision I'm all ears
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#23 ·
LOL, all the pics i've shown so far are from 3-4 months ago. I only have my phone to take pics. Sometimes i need to use the flash in my little apartment. I try not to though whenever possible. I try to use my kitchen for backlight, but my GS3 can only do so much =P
 
#25 ·
Well, me and my Dremel have had long talks about this topic. And we believe they will. And also that they won't look outta place. It's yet to be seen if a n00b modder like myself can pull it off though.
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The front 360 is gonna go where the front 240 mount is. I'm gonna have to cut out the whole mount, and as long as i keep the rad under 398mm long I SHOULD be able to still snap the front panel in. I have a 2nd stock XB PSU bracket. The 2nd 360 is gonna lay along the bottom 5.25 bay. It'll come right up against the 2nd PSU bracket and should stick a few mm's out of the front of the metal chassis. But it'll be shorter than the front panel, so it won't stick out of the rig when the front panels attached.

That'll also open up options for routing the tubing from the bottom 360 to the top rads/pump/res. If i pull it off right, i might Route out a small canal out of the front panel so you can see the plumbing. Only if I go with acrylic tubing. Otherwise the "Plumbing" wouldn't be anything special to look at =P

I've downloaded SketchUp and like 1000 models for it, but haven't gotten around to learning it yet. Been too busy planning it out in my head. SketchUp would make it alot easier to show you guys how i plan for it to look though. The 2nd PSU bracket will be perfectly symmetrical with the original PSU bracket. IMO it looks perfectly like it belongs there. I don't wanna jump ahead yet with pics though, cuz i still got like 4 mods i gotta choose/arrange pics for along with explanations =)

The 240 will be mounted next to the Mobo Tray behind the CPU similar to Elcono's HAF XB Project Ramfit with the only difference being that i made a few extra cuts so that i could keep the handles on the doors.

I'm probly gonna use XSPC Rad Brackets to reinforce the chassis after i cut out pretty much the entire front-top of my chassis. Unless i can find something shaped like a rad mount that'll reinforce it better
 
#26 ·
Well it seems like you have a good plan and you aren't just going crazy with the dremel. (Which is a good thing). Sketchup is pretty easy to work with, but there are times when the software itself can be annoying, such as it won't constrain to a point where you want it to, or when you have to zoom in the camera at a certain angle to get something to move where you want it. It's not very "human-proof". But, it's not hard to pick up, I learned everything myself, just by the sheer desire to use that instead of AutoCAD (which I had access to a fully licensed version of Inventor and Mechanical I think) because AutoCAD is pretty involving. Here's to hoping it all fits
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