OK picture time
So for anybody that doesn't already know, the XSPC 35x2 Top comes with a steel plate screwed into the top blocking all of the coolant sexiness. I unscrewed and removed the plate, which unveils a frosted top. I spent probly 10 minutes wetsanding between 400 - 2000 grit and a tiny bit of polishing. Didn't make much of a difference, but i also didn't spend much time. The odd thing is if scrub the top with water, the top becomes crystal clear, then the water dries and it's frosted again. I'm pretty confident if i spend an hour or 2 using @lowfat's method, i could make it nice and clear. Whether or not i bother with that depends whether i can find a good price on a used 35x anytime soon.
Also, after a little googling and youtubing, i figured out how to unsolder the PCB from my broken 35x. The coolant damage is MUCH more noticeable from the underside of the PCB. Not sure if it's even worth the time of trying to repair it....
Anyway, the whole point of this is the loop correct? Correct!!!
I've had both 35x's running at 100% duty cycle for a few hours now. Still incident free (knock on wood)
Anyway, hopefully i get to finally boot my system back up tomorrow.
If all goes well, my next orders of business will most likely be making my new mobo tray out of acrylic, and also making a temporary bench for my rig out of aluminum angle
Edit: Almost forgot to post these cpl pics of my quick fix for running a ModMyToys PCB splitter with multiple fans to one fan header. Just drilled out the trace after the first header so there's only RPM feedback from the 1st header
Nothing fancy, and i'm sure plenty of people already know how to do this. But i've tested with my MultiMeter and it definitely works. Cutting the trace with a razer should work the same, drilling just makes sure that the trace is completely separated
Edited by kpoeticg - 4/10/14 at 10:49pm