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[Build Log] TRiCLOPS (HAF-XB, RIVE BE, LIQUID!!!!) (BACK-2-BLAHH) - Page 48

Poll Results: Should i plan a built-in "extra" monitor ~9-13" modded into a transparent window or built in speakers?

 
  • 85% (83)
    Monitor
  • 14% (14)
    Speakers
97 Total Votes  
post #471 of 3109
Thread Starter 

A removable backdrop seems like it would be the simplest way to go about it, but would definitely cost me a few "creativity points" :D Especially since i'm already getting most of my modding ideas from other peoples build logs, like yours  :o

 

The fact that my top panel window is the best view into my rig is def gonna be the hardest part to work around. If i end up using something along the direction of pull-down shades on a window, adding a skirt/pedestal to the top should help me hide the housing. I'll definitely check out some EL lighting to see if i can think of how i can make it work. Thanx for the tip :thumb:


Edited by kpoeticg - 1/2/14 at 2:02pm
    
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post #472 of 3109
Now you have me wanting to go back and do another transparent LCD mod, to try out a pull down EL light panel backdrop loll

Always glad to help where I can thumb.gif
post #473 of 3109
Thread Starter 

Does anybody have any idea what thickness i should use if i wanna use acrylic as a support structure for my bottom pedestal/skirt? I'm not as worried about the top, but the bottom is gonna have my whole rig resting on it. Right now i'm planning maybe to grab a 1" thick acrylic square rod and cut it into either 1" or 2" tall sections at maybe all 4 corners of the basement. I'd rather use acrylic than aluminum for the transparency of it. But i'll use aluminum angle if needed. Any help would be appreciated. It'll all be resting on either a 1/2" or 1" thick acrylic floor also. But the main part i'm thinking about right now is between the chassis and the new acrylic floor. If that wasn't clear enough let me know but i'd definitely appreciate any input

    
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post #474 of 3109
The late-great Syrillian suggested minimum 3/16" thickness for any structural operation of acrylic sheet.

If you're going w/ rods, something like 3/8" or thicker to make a frame and you can use thinner acrylic sheets for the panels.
post #475 of 3109
Thread Starter 

Awesome, that's way thinner than i thought it would need to be. I tried to browse through as much Syrillian stuff as i could, but his work-logs are getting harder to find. And the ones i could find, half of the images have gotten erased off the img hosting sites =\

 

Thanx for the help as usual brotha :thumb: 

 

So i guess i'll go with 3/8 or 1/2" for the frame, probly 1/2" just to remain on the safe side. Then i'll go 3/16 or 1/4" on the panels. Nice :D

    
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post #476 of 3109
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

Awesome, that's way thinner than i thought it would need to be. I tried to browse through as much Syrillian stuff as i could, but his work-logs are getting harder to find. And the ones i could find, half of the images have gotten erased off the img hosting sites =\

Thanx for the help as usual brotha thumb.gif  

So i guess i'll go with 3/8 or 1/2" for the frame, probly 1/2" just to remain on the safe side. Then i'll go 3/16 or 1/4" on the panels. Nice biggrin.gif

For the panels, you can go as thin as 1/16 since it won't hold any weight. If the panels will hold weight, Syrillian recommended a minimum thickness of 3/16" or thicker. 1/4" is more ideal but obviously it becomes heavier. I believe my old DD Double Wide 21 was made up of 1/4" thick panels and the base and tops were probably 3/8". Heavy but very nice case.
post #477 of 3109
Thread Starter 

Yeah, that's why i was thinking 1/4" for the bottom pedestal. Even though i'll have the 1/2" beams for the main support, I think the 1/4" panels will serve well as a backup support system just in case

 

I don't mind the weight, as long as my XB doesn't cave in on it =P

Also by using 1/4" it means i can light up the panels with LED's too :D

 

I'm very new to working with acrylic, so i just needed to make sure i'm going about it the right way. I hope this turns out the way i'm picturing it in my head LOL

I was gonna try putting it together in Sketchup first, but it'll take me longer to make the sketch then physically put it together probly. @KillThePancake helped my sketchup skills alot, but i'm still not good enough to actually construct in it, just add components

    
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post #478 of 3109
Use a jigsaw w/ a high tpi blade (think metal cutting blades). Don't spend too much time as acrylic will start to melt and it makes a mess. Go steady but slightly quick. I use a band saw w/ a guide or my jigsaw w/ a guide. For the panels, you can use the blade method (check out you tube vids). A drill press works best for making holes as its higher torque will less likely melt the acrylic compared to a standard high speed drill. You can still use the drill just lower the speed and make sure it doesn't melt. Also, using spade wood bits makes some nice holes but can crack or break the acrylic as it exits. Hole saw are a good choice to avoid cracking the acrylic but if you spend too much time it will start melting the acrylic. Lastly, dremels will easily melt through the acrylic. Use it sparingly or in the lowest possible speed w/ metel cut off wheels. For the edges, a butane (yellow) can to flame polish them.
post #479 of 3109
Thread Starter 

Cool. I used a jigsaw with an acrylic blade for my top window and it came out pretty decent. U think i should use metal blades instead? (I understand what you were saying now)

The closest thing to a drill press i have is my Dremel "Drill Press" i'm definitely gonna order a few extra panels for a learning curve

 

@Dgeorge1617 has helped me alot too and also sent me a few extra acrylic panels to practice with.

 

The window i made for my top panel has pretty much been my entire experience with acrylic. I'm pretty sure i'm biting off more than i can chew, but i'm gonna try anyway =P

 

I'd like to have a decent sized res with dual AC D5's with either a BP or EK top in the bottom pedestal. I think it'll look decent behind the acrylic windows


Edited by kpoeticg - 1/4/14 at 6:08pm
    
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post #480 of 3109
Thread Starter 

So i've tried to go to sleep 3 times so far tonight and i just can't......

 

I started messing around in Sketchup again and it's looking like the thicker pedestal will definitely look better on the bottom then it would on the top. The idea i have at this moment, is basically making it just thick enough to house a FrozenQ Trispiral 250mm res, and putting one on each "door" side of the pedestal. I'm thinking i'll make the entire pedestal in white translucent acrylic so i can make it into a light panel. Except where i have the 2 res's on the sides, i'll have a cutout in the white acrylic and have clear acrylic displaying the res's. I'm thinking black/white/red for the trispiral to go along with my theme. Only going 250mm on each res should also give me plenty of room to run an AC D5 to each res with a male -> male thread. I'm also gonna make a TINY pedestal on the top, but i don't really consider it a pedestal. Picture how the top of a Case-Labs case looks. Just thick enough so i can try this transparent  LCD idea.

 

This might just be big talk right now, but i think i can pull it off and make it look nice. Only thing i'm worried about right now is if having both reservoirs & pumps in the bottom like that is gonna make my life easier or a nightmare when i'm trying to drain, fill, & bleed air from my loop. Also the fact that i'll be going full acrylic tubing should make things interesting as well. Anyway just wanted to let everybody know where my heads at right now. I didn't save the rough sketch i made a little while go because it was very "rough" lol. I'll try to come up with something better soon though so i can give everybody a better visual of what i'm picturing.

 

Anyway stay tuned =)

    
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