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[Build Log] TRiCLOPS (HAF-XB, RIVE BE, LIQUID!!!!) (BACK-2-BLAHH) - Page 57

Poll Results: Should i plan a built-in "extra" monitor ~9-13" modded into a transparent window or built in speakers?

 
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post #561 of 3109
@kpoeticg ) dont know **** about photo technique, but imo, the photos looks awesome! Its hard for me to imagine much more improvement tongue.gif
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post #562 of 3109
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYMD View Post

You're getting closer!

But you are right, the processing is too far -- you're compensating for the lighting not being quite right. In my examples, I did do some processing with the curves but I also lit the background more with the placement of my lights. You also don't need to soften the background light, you can hit it with your direct bulbs.

"1/2 stop over" means you want the background to be brighter than the foreground object by at least 1/2 stop, preferably a full stop. A stop is a measure of light hitting the sensor.

If you expose the background correctly, you'll still be able to see detail in the white drop sheet. You don't want that. So you want more light hitting the backdrop than is hitting your subject. Now when you expose correctly for the subject, the background will be overexposed. That is what you want for "high key" or white backdrops where you want to isolate the subject.

Anyway, you're getting it. Play around with your lights more so you don't have to do so much processing and you'll be there.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYMD View Post

One more tip to add a bit of punch to your photos is to isolate your subject better with depth of field. If you post your camera gear and what mode you shoot in, I can give you some better advice, but basically it means closing down your lens aperture so you get some parts in sharp focus and the background goes softly out of focus.

If your exposure is correct at f/8, turn down your lights and get the exposure correct at f/4.... now see what that did to your focusing area and how it highlights what you're focused on.

 

All those photos i posted were taken before i read your post. You musta posted that first bit of advice like within 5 minutes of when i went and spent like 2 hours taking shots of my GPU :p

So i was only able to take your advice as far as processing the images. Next time i shoot (probly later today) i'll definitely pay alot more attention to the lighting setup.

 

I have an Olympus Evolt E-500. I only have the 2 kit lenses for it. I use the 14-45mm 1:3.5-5.6 for every photo i take. I always use manual shutter/aperture so my settings change constantly from shot to shot. I'm extremely new to anything photography related. I only bought this camera because i was starting to feel embarassed about trying to manage a build log with my Samsung Galaxy S3. 

 

When i'm taking pics of my chassis i usually use f22 or f16. Last night i was going with the lowest aperture i could for most of the GPU shots. Some of em were probly f9 or f11 for some of the shots with more area to focus on, but most of em were between 4-5.6.

 

Also, the lights don't dim. Just on & off switches. 2 have white umbrella diffusers, and one's real short with no umbrella. The bulbs are 45W 5500k, but i have some 85W 6500k's being delivered tomorrow. I ordered the EX-25 Macro Extender for it last week and it just arrived today. Haven't played with it yet though cuz i've been trying to get these 3 dust spots out of my sensor for the past hour. 

 

So as far as the background light....

I have the 2 tall umbrella lights for the foreground lights and a short one with no umbrella for the background light. It seems like the logical way for the foreground lights would be like a triangle with my shot as the tip of the triangle. Where exactly do i put the background light? I was having trouble last night with it washing out the images, that's why i was playing with different setups. 

Thanx again for all your help

Quote:
Originally Posted by GaMbi2004 View Post

@kpoeticg ) dont know **** about photo technique, but imo, the photos looks awesome! Its hard for me to imagine much more improvement tongue.gif
gj thumb.gif

Thanx brotha!!

There's def room for improvement though. If we were judging this like normal schools, right now i'd be studying hard so i can be accepted to kindergarten. :p 


Edited by kpoeticg - 1/15/14 at 10:50am
    
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post #563 of 3109
> I always use manual shutter/aperture

AWESOME. That is how you learn proper exposure and lighting balance. It is too bad though you don't have any sort of dimmer function on the lighting so it is easier to experiment... Maybe using sheets of white paper rubber-banded around the bulb you can get a "dimmer" going when you need to.


> i've been trying to get these 3 dust spots out of my sensor for the past hour

One good thing about opening up your lens aperture is that the sensor dust becomes a non issue as it goes so out of focus as to be invisible.

Also check out Lightroom's "spot removal" -- once you remove the dust spots in one image, you Sync that spot removal setting to all the other images and voila, the dust is gone from all of them. It does need some manual adjustment sometimes after....

http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-remove-sensor-dust-with-lightroom


>Where exactly do i put the background light? I was having trouble last night with it washing out the images, that's why i was playing with different setups.

It needs to be hitting the background but shielded from your lens. This can be tricky. Pros use things called barndoors or snoots that attach to the lights and block the background light from directly hitting the lens. You can of course fashion something homemade to do the same job:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Barndoors/ci/1180/N/4062040402
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post #564 of 3109
Thread Starter 

Well i shoot through the white umbrella's for the 2 main lights. I can move em farther away or raise em higher if i wanna experiment. 

 

I've been using Lightroom for maybe like a month now. Every single pic that i post lately gets processed through Lightroom. I don't even have my camera save JPEG's anymore. I use the spot remover sometimes. I still got alot to learn in Lightroom as far as how i SHOULD be processing my pics. But i think i know how to use most of the functions. Just don't always know if i'm making the pic look better or worse. And that's a good point about it being outside of the focus range. Still bugs me though :p

 

I think i can make it not hit my lens. And i also just bought a pack of 3 Polaroid Fiters (UV, Flourescent, Polarization), so that can help with that also. Making it not wash out the shot is what was giving me issue's last night. I don't usually have alot of room to maneuver so sometimes it's like the "background" light just negates the fact that i'm using white umbrella's to diffuse my main lights. I'll have my 2 umbrella lights giving a nice soft white glow, then my backgroud light just blingin out my whole GPU for instance.

 

Like picture me not being able to swivel my camera's head without tilting over one of my umbrella's which also can't move without hitting the other umbrella :D

    
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post #565 of 3109
lol I've been there in those cramped spaces trying to light things... I know what you mean. Moving your subject further away from the background so you can light the background separately is somewhat of a requirement so you may always be limited by that restriction.

Sometimes something as simple as a piece of cardboard taped to the side of the background light that faces the camera can do enough to cut the spillage.
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post #566 of 3109
Thread Starter 

Awesome. Yeah, i'm definitely gonna take your advice about keeping some distance between the backdrop and what i'm shooting. I just got my backdrop and lighting delivered yesterday, so i'm sure i'll be able to figure out a better way to lay everything out. It'll still be cramped lighting wise, but i can shoot the long way down my table instead of across the sides if i need to :thumb:

    
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post #567 of 3109
Thread Starter 

These are the presents the UPS guy brought me today =)

I should have almost everything else i ordered by tomorrow. There's a few random Amazon oddities that are taking their time, but my actual Dremel Trio and Moto-Saw should be here tomorrow. Also an RGB strip i ordered, some EL Wire, my RIVE BE Block, Kryographics 290x Block, Fittings, Tubing, Coolant, and some other stuff :wheee:

    
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post #568 of 3109
Lookin good!! A little contrasty still and also I see an orange cast (but I'm on my Air not color corrected screens).... mousing over in Photoshop confirms an orange cast. Easiest fix is in LR to use the white balance eyedropper on a neutral in your scene (like the backdrop before you blow it out to pure white).
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post #569 of 3109
Thread Starter 

The orange is probly my fault. I enhanced the red, blue, and orange saturation a little bit. The package with orange on it had a little glare on the plastic so i had to saturate it a little extra. I didn't even notice that it affected the balance. I really need to learn how to use that damn histogram lol

 

I never know what's the right way to handle contrast......or clarity......or sharpening/luminance/color. I really just wing it and pray for the best with most my pics.

 

That's a good tip with the eyedropper. I'll do that next time. Thanx :cheers:

    
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post #570 of 3109
Thread Starter 

How about now

Version 1 

Ver 2.0 

 

Good call with the eyedropper. I hadn't used that yet 

    
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Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
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LC Telios Red/Black Fusion, White, & Gray More To Come... 
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Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
OtherOther
LC Telios Red/Black Fusion, White, & Gray More To Come... 
  hide details  
Reply
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Overclock.net › Forums › Case Mods & Cases › Builds & Case Mods › Case Mods › Case Mod Work Logs › [Build Log] TRiCLOPS (HAF-XB, RIVE BE, LIQUID!!!!) (BACK-2-BLAHH)