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[Official] AMD R9 290X / 290 Owners Club - Page 1763

post #17621 of 43950
Quote:
Originally Posted by kizwan View Post

Applying IC Diamond 7 is easy. If you install the heatsink/waterblock carefully, it won't scratch the die. It's very unlikely you're going to scratch the die during installation unless you're very clumsy. It's not easy to remove/clean ICD 7 & lot of people scratched their CPU/GPU when they don't clean it properly. Scratched & your warranty gone. It's advised when removing/cleaning, do it carefully to avoid scratching the die, using solvent like acetone or ArctiClean to re-liquefy the TIM.

[EDIT] On second thought, I may re-mount the blocks a couple of time until I satisfy. So, I'm getting the trusty Shin-Etsu G751 instead. tongue.gif

That is what I mean about scratching it, suppose you have to RMA it.. You have to take it off and apply some more normal looking TIM, which is where the chance of scratching it is a lot higher. Going with Shin-Etsu is a good choice! thumb.gif
 
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post #17622 of 43950
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Dude!! Don't freak me out like that. I don't want to RMA this card because it's an above average performer. A cracked choke wouldn't ooze a gelatinous material like that would it? That looks like glue to me. But now you've got me worried.

dw you should be fine, but *if* you start to get coil whine then that glue must have come out of one of the chokes, otherwise its just spill from something...
   
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post #17623 of 43950
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul17041993 View Post

dw you should be fine, but *if* you start to get coil whine then that glue must have come out of one of the chokes, otherwise its just spill from something...

I've never broken one open but I don't think the stuff inside is liquid, is it? Even if the casing was cracked I don't think it would leak out like that. More likely it was just something that got on the outside during manufacturing.
post #17624 of 43950



finaly they are here and they run fine on my 850 watt cm PSU, waiting a new one for overclocking
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post #17625 of 43950
Just a question, is occt stable the rule for GPU stability? Because i can game all day BF4, crysis 3, etc at 1150mhz +75mv, but occt will trow errors, i can only be occt stable at 1125 +100mv and i cant even test more than 5 five minutes without vrm´s reach 100c+, in long gaming sessions they do about 80c max.
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post #17626 of 43950
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noufel View Post




finaly they are here and they run fine on my 850 watt cm PSU, waiting a new one for overclocking

Nice lets hope they clock well, although both over clocked may put some strain on your PSU.
post #17627 of 43950
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maracus View Post

Nice lets hope they clock well, although both over clocked may put some strain on your PSU.
Thanks, I ordered a 1000 w cm v it should be sufficient
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post #17628 of 43950
Quote:
Originally Posted by vieuxchnock View Post

What do you mean by the thermal pad upgrade? Did I miss something?

Sorry, check this out:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1468593/r9-290-x-thermal-pad-upgrade-vrm-temperatures
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post #17629 of 43950
I just notices something - on GB site it is written that 600W PSU is required. Other brands have a lot higher requirements for PSUs. Do you think my SEASONIC SS-620GB Bronze is enough? I don't have problems so far, except some artifacting with too high clocks, but this is normal... smile.gif
post #17630 of 43950
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belkov View Post

I just notices something - on GB site it is written that 600W PSU is required. Other brands have a lot higher requirements for PSUs. Do you think my SEASONIC SS-620GB Bronze is enough? I don't have problems so far, except some artifacting with too high clocks, but this is normal... smile.gif

It should be being a Seasonic, but check the amperage on your specific PSU; It should be on the label somewhere. You're looking for amperage on the 12v rail. You want 40+ really but a bit under is usually okay i've found.
 
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