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[Official] AMD R9 290X / 290 Owners Club - Page 1841

post #18401 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Mac View Post

At least you have a GTX 280 to keep you happy while you wait, I had to run integrated for over a week when I sold my 290.

Yeah... could be worse I suppose.

So should I uninstall the AMD drivers and put in nVidia drivers for my GTX 280 or can I just throw it in there and run it? I imagine I have to install those nVidia drivers, huh?
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post #18402 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by LazarusIV View Post

Yeah... could be worse I suppose.

So should I uninstall the AMD drivers and put in nVidia drivers for my GTX 280 or can I just throw it in there and run it? I imagine I have to install those nVidia drivers, huh?

Yeah, wipe the AMD drivers and install the nvidia ones, I couldn't game on integrated until I installed drivers so I'd imagine it'd be the same on a 280.
post #18403 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrWhiteRX7 View Post

I'm on 14.2.

Game runs really well (minus a couple random glitches) @ 1440p thumb.gif
Can you enable cfx and pass me your log for comparison?
Thanks.
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post #18404 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy360 View Post


The EK block was suppose to come out in February, so I'll wait before returning it. But until it comes out, I'm going to mine the crap out of the card hoping for it to fails within the first 30 days. No overclocks or cramped cases, but I won't be applying any shims yet.

Will adding a shim void my warranty?

P.S The heatpipes explain the core temp, but what about the vrm? Why are they so hot? (I'm looking at the pic posted a few pages behind)

 

I think those VisionTek cards only carry a 1-year warranty? I would say hold out for the DC2 block, it will undoubtedly bring the temps within reason, and take advantage of the ASUS 3-year warranty. 

 

I sold my 7870 to a friend, of a friend, of a friend, lol.  He managed to blow it up somehow...it was running "stock clocks" when this happened; which I find hard to believe.  I RMA'd it for the guy, and it was a smooth transaction, especially since I called in the RMA.  Only took a like 9-10 days total including transit time there and back; RMA center is in Indiana.

 

Taking off stock heatsink doesn't void your warranty with ASUS cards.  As long as you don't do any damage to the card, you would be fine.  Just have to make sure you use non-conductive TIM(in case you get some where you shouldn't) and that the shim isn't touching anything that could cause a short.

 

VRMs get very hot on these cards especially with OC and additional voltage. Even under water I was initially seeing high 70s on VRM1 with a healthy overclock.  I got the temperatures down by upgrading thermal pads.  I have a write up on that in my sig if you want to check it out.

 

The one thing the stock blower does halfway decently is cool VRM1 since all the cool air hits those first...this consequently sends very hot air over the core, which is likely a good portion of the reason the reference cooler does such a poor job cooling the core.

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post #18405 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul17041993 View Post

you'll have to talk to futuremark support about that I think, either way, an exception shouldn't be thrown on another caught exception... that's a double fail...

Ive only ever seen something like that once, which was minecraft crashing on the crash screen, an exception thrown from something bad in the crashlog from the actual crash...
lachen.gif
soldering a mm copper plate should gain ~10% cooling performance, more or less, would have to be a good solder job though.

Why solder, A simple copper shim, 0,1mm thick with TIM on, will do the job, I would say 10% is a minimum, I would expected about 20% to be honest.
post #18406 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

I think those VisionTek cards only carry a 1-year warranty? I would say hold out for the DC2 block, it will undoubtedly bring the temps within reason, and take advantage of the ASUS 3-year warranty. 

I sold my 7870 to a friend, of a friend, of a friend, lol.  He managed to blow it up somehow...it was running "stock clocks" when this happened; which I find hard to believe.  I RMA'd it for the guy, and it was a smooth transaction, especially since I called in the RMA.  Only took a like 9-10 days total including transit time there and back; RMA center is in Indiana.

Taking off stock heatsink doesn't void your warranty with ASUS cards.  As long as you don't do any damage to the card, you would be fine.  Just have to make sure you use non-conductive TIM(in case you get some where you shouldn't) and that the shim isn't touching anything that could cause a short.

VRMs get very hot on these cards especially with OC and additional voltage. Even under water I was initially seeing high 70s on VRM1 with a healthy overclock.  I got the temperatures down by upgrading thermal pads.  I have a write up on that in my sig if you want to check it out.
.

Thanks, I'll look around some hardware stores to see if I can find a thin piece of copper to use as a shim.

You found a 12% decrease in temps from using better pads. I have some leftover EK pads from my two R9 290 full cover blocks, they keep my VRM under 60 degrees when oc'ed to 1250 @ +25mV but that's with tim on both sides of the pad.

Would EK pads be an improvement over ASUS'? I'd buy the poly ones, but shipping is like 20$ from FrozenCPU
Edited by Roy360 - 3/5/14 at 4:14pm
post #18407 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by vortex240 View Post

Why solder, A simple copper shim, 0,1mm thick with TIM on, will do the job, I would say 10% is a minimum, I would expected about 20% to be honest.

TIM would be adequate, solder would be a little better (similar to how the TIM-base intel's need de-lidding but the solder-base AMD's don't),

.1mm might be a bit thin though? that's about fin thickness, wouldn't exactly be thick enough to transfer the heat effectively, .5mm though should be enough, 1mm would give the best results but you would likely need longer screws...
   
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post #18408 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy360 View Post


Thanks, I'll look around some hardware stores to see if I can find a thin piece of copper to use as a shim.

You found a 12% decrease in temps from using better pads. hmm I have some leftover EK pads from my two R9 290 full cover blocks, they keep my VRM under 60 degrees when oc'ed to 1450 @ +100mV but that's with tim on both sides of the pad.

Would EK pads be an improvement over ASUS'? I'd buy the poly ones, but shipping is like 20$ from FrozenCPU

 

No problem.  If you have no luck at the hardware store, eBay is full of them :) http://www.ebay.com/bhp/gpu-copper 

 

Just have to get one that is thin enough for the cooler to still mount properly; Not sure how many extra threads the screws have for mounting the cooler have left.  Maybe in the 1-1.5mm range so it will make good contact and not bend?

 

23% for VRM1 this is the important one for GPU core, 12% for VRM2 which is less important and for the memory.

 

It's hard to say if the EK pads would see an improvement over the ASUS ones.  I know several people have upgraded the EK pads to get similar temperature drops to what I saw with my XSPC.  The EK pads have roughly 1/3 of the thermal conductance of the Fuji Ultra Extreme,(someone posted this previously can't remember who) so EK suggests using the TIM to assist with heat transfer. 

 

The only way to know if the EK pads will work better is to swap them out. 


Edited by Roboyto - 3/5/14 at 4:24pm
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post #18409 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul17041993 View Post

TIM would be adequate, solder would be a little better (similar to how the TIM-base intel's need de-lidding but the solder-base AMD's don't),

.1mm might be a bit thin though? that's about fin thickness, wouldn't exactly be thick enough to transfer the heat effectively, .5mm though should be enough, 1mm would give the best results but you would likely need longer screws...

Longer screws because of 1 mm? I find that hard to believe.
post #18410 of 43915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul17041993 View Post

TIM would be adequate, solder would be a little better (similar to how the TIM-base intel's need de-lidding but the solder-base AMD's don't),

.1mm might be a bit thin though? that's about fin thickness, wouldn't exactly be thick enough to transfer the heat effectively, .5mm though should be enough, 1mm would give the best results but you would likely need longer screws...

Whoops, I meant 1mm, soldering a surface area that large would be near impossible to maintain square flatness in relation to the core. The DC2 cooler itself, is enough to take care of the 780ti, so it's perfectly adequate for hawaii. If I had a chance to pick up a DC2 for a lot less then other custom cards, I would.

If I had to choose a custom cooler, it would be PCS+ followed by the TriX. Allthough the new VaporX is just around the corner. In all honesty, as long as its quieter then the reference cooler and cools better then that's all that is needed.

In the end it's still a chip lottery. A friend has a 290X that will do 1135 max on the core with +100mv, more voltage does not help. He switched to a full waterblock and even though the temps dropped to 50C, he is still stuck at 1135.
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