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[Official] AMD R9 290X / 290 Owners Club - Page 1842

post #18411 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by KGBinUSA View Post

Longer screws because of 1 mm? I find that hard to believe.

it would depend on how much room the screws have, my 7970DCII for example would have no screw space for such a mod, the screws sit all the way down on the PCB, my ref 290X however has about 1.5mm of space still left on the screws.
   
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post #18412 of 43923
Just bought a DCUII 290x to pair with my Tri-X for Xfire. Hoping I'm not going to have heat issues as my Tri-X already runs at like 50c idle and 80c gaming.
 
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post #18413 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by MapRef41N93W View Post

Just bought a DCUII 290x to pair with my Tri-X for Xfire. Hoping I'm not going to have heat issues as my Tri-X already runs at like 50c idle and 80c gaming.

 

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but Xfire on air hasn't been the greatest for folks in this thread. Make sure you have plenty of fresh air feeding those cards; Whichever runs cooler should be on top. 

 

Hopefully your DC2 doesn't have temperature issues like the others we have been discussing.

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post #18414 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but Xfire on air hasn't been the greatest for folks in this thread. Make sure you have plenty of fresh air feeding those cards; Whichever runs cooler should be on top. 

Hopefully your DC2 doesn't have temperature issues like the others we have been discussing.

I have a HAF-X with a 200mm side fan feeding air to the GPUs and two top 200mms pulling hot air out. I could try to setup the GPU bracket with an 80mm fan as well, but I doubt it will fit with such large cards.
 
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post #18415 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

No problem.  If you have no luck at the hardware store, eBay is full of them smile.gifhttp://www.ebay.com/bhp/gpu-copper 

Just have to get one that is thin enough for the cooler to still mount properly; Not sure how many extra threads the screws have for mounting the cooler have left.  Maybe in the 1-1.5mm range so it will make good contact and not bend?

23% for VRM1 this is the important one for GPU core, 12% for VRM2 which is less important and for the memory.

It's hard to say if the EK pads would see an improvement over the ASUS ones.  I know several people have upgraded the EK pads to get similar temperature drops to what I saw with my XSPC.  The EK pads have roughly 1/3 of the thermal conductance of the Fuji Ultra Extreme,(someone posted this previously can't remember who) so EK suggests using the TIM to assist with heat transfer. 

The only way to know if the EK pads will work better is to swap them out. 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy360 View Post

Thanks, I'll look around some hardware stores to see if I can find a thin piece of copper to use as a shim.

You found a 12% decrease in temps from using better pads. I have some leftover EK pads from my two R9 290 full cover blocks, they keep my VRM under 60 degrees when oc'ed to 1250 @ +25mV but that's with tim on both sides of the pad.

Would EK pads be an improvement over ASUS'? I'd buy the poly ones, but shipping is like 20$ from FrozenCPU


Turns out I was wrong about shipping, it's actually like 7$. I just hope UPS doesn't try charging a broker fee on a <30$ item.

Okay, so going off your guide, I need 1mm thick pads.

Found these two:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17500/thr-182/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17504/thr-185/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html

So 6$ more for double the amount? (Is that the only difference) I have a reference card besides the ASUS, so maybe I should get the 60x50 and do both cards? Or will the 100x15 be enough for VRM1 and maybe VRM2 if I have enough? I remember your guide saying you had enough for 3 cards.


For the shim, I just need a thin copper sheet, (1mm?) and drill 4 fours to match up with the stock screws?
The die size is 428mm^2 so a 25x25x1 is good? Or should I get a 30x30x1 I don't have the cooler infront of me, or else I would measure it myself.
Edited by Roy360 - 3/5/14 at 4:45pm
post #18416 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hl86 View Post

So my tri-x 290x fluctuates when i hit 1200 on core. Using trixx.50% power limit, 150+ VDDC, core hits 70c vrm 77-80c ingame.
What can i do to make it stable?

 

Are you forcing constant voltage?  Have ULPS disabled?  14.X drivers have had lots of stability issues, 13.X usually better.

 

1200/1500 is a solid overclock for one of these cards.

 

More voltage or less clocks. 

 

Best methodology for overclocking is usually one component at a time.

 

Start pushing GPU for example, when you lose stability drop clocks back down to the last stable clocks you had found, and then work on memory.  When you lose stability here, drop clocks back down to stable settings and add more voltage.

 

Rinse and repeat until you find the best combination of clocks, voltages, and temperatures.  It's a lengthy process, so be patient!

 

Core clock definitely yields better performance gains, so sacrificing some RAM speed for overall stability isn't necessarily a bad thing.

 

I have spent probably 100 hours benching, testing, and overclocking my 290.  I have come to find that 1200/1500 yields best combination of performance, voltage, and temperatures.  I am able to push my card as high as 1300/1700 with +200mV.  However, at 1200/1500 I am getting 96% of the performance found with my aforementioned maximum clocks/voltages.  1200/1500 is a solid overclock for one of these cards.


Edited by Roboyto - 3/5/14 at 4:45pm
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post #18417 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by vortex240 View Post

Whoops, I meant 1mm, soldering a surface area that large would be near impossible to maintain square flatness in relation to the core. The DC2 cooler itself, is enough to take care of the 780ti, so it's perfectly adequate for hawaii. If I had a chance to pick up a DC2 for a lot less then other custom cards, I would.

other heatpipe coolers use solder to join the pipes to the contact plate, it would be relatively simple to solder a plate onto these as its already pressed flat, you would just need a blowtorch on-hand to keep it warm as you get the solder across the surface and the plate sitting flat, would probably be easiest to spread the solder all over the plate and then press the plate to the heatsink as the heatsink would naturally want to cool itself.

its tricky and hazerdous, wouldn't expect many here to do it but anyone proficient in basic metalwork would be free to try, of course you would want to take all the plastic parts off the heatsink and have a solder vacuum ready for spillage.
   
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post #18418 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy360 View Post



Turns out I was wrong about shipping, it's actually like 7$. I just hope UPS doesn't try charging a broker fee on a <30$ item.

Okay, so going off your guide, I need 1mm thick pads.

Found these two:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17500/thr-182/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17504/thr-185/Fujipoly_Ultra_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_170_WmK.html

So 6$ more for double the amount? (Is that the only difference) I have a reference card besides the ASUS, so maybe I should get the 60x50 and do both cards? Or will the 100x15 be enough for VRM1 and maybe VRM2 if I have enough? I remember your guide saying you had enough for 3 cards.


For the shim, I just need a thin copper sheet, (1mm?) and drill 4 fours to match up with the stock screws?
The die size is 428mm^2 so a 25x25x1 is good? Or should I get a 30x30x1 I don't have the cooler infront of me, or else I would measure it myself.

 

The 100x15mm for is enough to do all VRMs for 2 cards.  Get the Fujipoly Ultra Extreme for VRMs.

 

I would suggest leaving the RAM pads as they are.  I spent the extra money to upgrade the RAM pads and I got nothing out of it. The RAM doesn't get anywhere near the temperature of the VRMs.

If you really want to change the RAM pads as well, you will need (2) 60x50mm pads for (1) card.  But I suggest saving yourself the time and money and just using the pads the blocks come with.

 

Square root of 428 is 20.68, but the die is slightly taller than wide.  I would imagine a 25x25 would help, but the real question is 25x25 large enough to make sufficient contact to those outer heatpipes?  Hard to say without removing the DC2 heatsink.

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Vega has Ryzen
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Koolance Compression Fittings Feser Silver Tubing Corsair SP120 High Performance x4 XSPC Dual 5.25" Reservoir 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
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post #18419 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul17041993 View Post

other heatpipe coolers use solder to join the pipes to the contact plate, it would be relatively simple to solder a plate onto these as its already pressed flat, you would just need a blowtorch on-hand to keep it warm as you get the solder across the surface and the plate sitting flat, would probably be easiest to spread the solder all over the plate and then press the plate to the heatsink as the heatsink would naturally want to cool itself.

its tricky and hazerdous, wouldn't expect many here to do it but anyone proficient in basic metalwork would be free to try, of course you would want to take all the plastic parts off the heatsink and have a solder vacuum ready for spillage.

I can guarantee you that you will not achieve the square flatness required to perfectly transfer heat to the die. Then again, if you have access to a machine shop that should not be too difficult.
post #18420 of 43923
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roboyto View Post

The 100x15mm for is enough to do all VRMs for 2 cards.  Get the Fujipoly Ultra Extreme for VRMs.

I would suggest leaving the RAM pads as they are.  I spent the extra money to upgrade the RAM pads and I got nothing out of it. The RAM doesn't get anywhere near the temperature of the VRMs.
If you really want to change the RAM pads as well, you will need (2) 60x50mm pads for (1) card.  But I suggest saving yourself the time and money and just using the pads the blocks come with.

Square root of 428 is 20.68, but the die is slightly taller than wide.  I would imagine a 25x25 would help, but the real question is 25x25 large enough to make sufficient contact to those outer heatpipes?  Hard to say without removing the DC2 heatsink.

Would getting a too large shim have any adverse effects? I can't think of any since it's in contact with a massive copper block. In some early posts someone mentioned that shims <1mm are too thin to be effective, but too thick might not screw it..
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