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post #25311 of 43911
about 107°C after running Furmark Burn-In for a while @ 1120MHz/+44mV

Should be fine because as far as i know those VRMs are designed for temperatures up to 130°C

Using less OC @ stock-voltage my VRMs always stay below 90°C.

Actually i'm still interested in a simple to mount cooling header for the vrms but didn't find any yet :-(
post #25312 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by uk3k View Post

about 107°C after running Furmark Burn-In for a while @ 1120MHz/+44mV

Should be fine because as far as i know those VRMs are designed for temperatures up to 130°C

Using less OC @ stock-voltage my VRMs always stay below 90°C.

Actually i'm still interested in a simple to mount cooling header for the vrms but didn't find any yet :-(

I would react very badly if I ever saw those temps myself. I'm a bit of an air cool to the max type though. Lol
     
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post #25313 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by giygas View Post

I just got a Sapphire Vapor-X R9 290 and it's idling at 52C. That seems a little absurdly high to me...does anyone have any ideas what could be causing it? As I understand it Vapor-X models are supposed to be cooler, not this much warmer...I thought it might be because I have my monitor at 144Hz but putting it back at 60 Hz didn't change the temperature at all.

That's expected. The vapor x is designed to turn off its fans when idling or at low load. The normal tri x just runs its fans at 20% in the same scenario that's why it idles lower. You can override this with afterburner or trixx.
post #25314 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasboogieman View Post

That's expected. The vapor x is designed to turn off its fans when idling or at low load. The normal tri x just runs its fans at 20% in the same scenario that's why it idles lower. You can override this with afterburner or trixx.

Well,I also have that card and I have turned the "intelligent" fan control off,but I still get those temps in idle..
But,to be fair ,I have 2 monitors @60Hz ,plus case airflow plays a big part, and since I have crammed it inside an obsidian 350D high idle temps are to be expected..Not to mention the ambient temps are high now(summer in Greece biggrin.gif )

I got mostly the same idle temps with my msi 280 X,so I wouldn't worry too much..
   
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post #25315 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by mAs81 View Post

Well,I also have that card and I have turned the "intelligent" fan control off,but I still get those temps in idle..
But,to be fair ,I have 2 monitors @60Hz ,plus case airflow plays a big part, and since I have crammed it inside an obsidian 350D high idle temps are to be expected..Not to mention the ambient temps are high now(summer in Greece biggrin.gif )

I got mostly the same idle temps with my msi 280 X,so I wouldn't worry too much..

Indeed, two monitors means you vRAM is running at full speed 24/7, so the card would run about 3-10C warmer than normal. That's part of why I stopped running 2 monitors for 24/7 use recently, made my R9 290X that was the primary card idle at 40-44C instead of 32-38C (40-50% minimum fan speed programmed into AfterBurner, and those temps are on the Gigabyte WindForce cooler)
     
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post #25316 of 43911
Well, it turns out that I had a lower voltage than I needed, so I switched back to MSI AB. I didn't know how to add extra voltage on GPU core right away, so I just searched it out and found out how.. Why don't they just put this setting ability on the regular program? lol It took me like a week to figure this out! rolleyes.gif
post #25317 of 43911
Please forgive me for not having read all the 8.000+ posts in this thread.
I recently placed an order for a Sapphire 290X card w. AMD stock cooler/fan to be used in a future water cooling setup and I will be buying parts occasionally to set it all up some months later:

Sapphire Radeon R9 290X 4GB DDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCIe BF4 - (21226-00-53G) (1000 MHz core clock)

I have a few questions about the card I bought and hope someone can give me some feedback on that. I normally ask around before I buy stuff, but I had been looking for a reference card and saw one at a discount and decided to buy it. Hopefully it will not be impossible to buy another reference 290X card later on. At worst I guess I could try buy a used one.

Q1: Is there perhaps anything I should know about the 21226-00-53G model? The 21226-00-40G seem similar to the version I have.
Q2: How much of an issue is this problem of getting the "black screen" all these months after the product launch in 2013?
Q3: What is safe max voltage for a 290X card?
Q4: Is there any point to flashing to a different bios or modding the bios if I only want to achieve a modest overclock? (20-25%)

Edit: Someone at "Sapphire Technology Club" on facebook claims that "(...) the 53G is the Battlefield 4 version and it comes with a copy of this game. The 40G version doesn't inculde it." I guess that might explain the difference between the two numbers 21226-00-53G and 21226-00-40G.

Edit2: The following post in this thread seem to sum up alot of useful info about the 290X card: http://www.overclock.net/t/1436497/official-amd-r9-290x-290-owners-club/21890#post_22208781

Edit3: I thought I should mention that someone seem to make a correlation between getting a "black screen" and allowing overclocking software to incidentally load in a random order when Windows start (as opposed to have it load at the end of the Windows start up process).
Edited by Decoman - 7/5/14 at 2:32am
post #25318 of 43911
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by skruppe View Post

Hey this looks like a cool club, and you're letting a guy like me join you?

GPU1: http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/4vdfh/
GPU1: ASUS, 290X - Battlefield 4 Edition, replaced stock and got myself a nice EKWC block.(incl. backplate)
GPU2: http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/3d74s/
GPU2: Powercolor PCS+ 290X got cleaned up and aftermarket fans were replaced by EKWC block (incl. backplate)

And just my luck, both cards have Elpida... I guess my only alternative is to buy a third random one and hope for the best? I suppose IF that were to fail as well I would have no other choice than going QuadFire right? rolleyes.gif

Congrats - added thumbsupsmiley.pngSnorkle.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by uk3k View Post

pls add me:

GPU-Z
uk3k - 2x Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC - Water/Arctic Cooling Hybrid II

thx :-)

Congrats - added thumbsupsmiley.pngSnorkle.gif
     
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post #25319 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Decoman View Post

Please forgive me for not having read all the 8.000+ posts in this thread.
I recently placed an order for a Sapphire 290X card w. AMD stock cooler/fan to be used in a future water cooling setup and I will be buying parts occasionally to set it all up some months later:

Sapphire Radeon R9 290X 4GB DDR5 2xDVI HDMI DisplayPort PCIe BF4 - (21226-00-53G) (1000 MHz core clock)

I have a few questions about the card I bought and hope someone can give me some feedback on that. I normally ask around before I buy stuff, but I had been looking for a reference card and saw one at a discount and decided to buy it. Hopefully it will not be impossible to buy another reference 290X card later on. At worst I guess I could try buy a used one.

Q1: Is there perhaps anything I should know about the 21226-00-53G model? The 21226-00-40G seem similar to the version I have.
Q2: How much of an issue is this problem of getting the "black screen" all these months after the product launch in 2013?
Q3: What is safe max voltage for a 290X card?
Q4: Is there any point to flashing to a different bios or modding the bios if I only want to achieve a modest overclock? (20-25%)


1. No clue about the versions, I know that the Tri X, there was an earlier and later model. Biggest difference was that the late model couldn't use the earlier model's BIOS due to changes in VRAM timings.

2. The black screen issue is most commonly associated with bad memory. The prevailing theory at the moment was that the earlier batches of cards had derped Elpida timings resulting in blackscreens at stock. Its pretty rare nowadays (though I daresay its more common with Elpida equipped cards than Hynix), you tend to see blackscreens more now due to unstable VRAM overclocks.

3. There is no real definite answer but I can share a rough guideline: very very rough, if anyone can help me clean it up, it would be much appreciated. Its not really voltage that kills components, its the power draw and heat, voltage alone is just an electrical potential.

The VRM MOSFETS are rated for up to 50A on the large ones and 20A on the smaller auxiliary ones, I am basing as rough estimate (I have limited knowledge on the intricacies of VRM design) that with 5 phases, it is reasonable to assume at a Vcore of 1.25V (stock worst binned GPU) and about 1.18V (VDROOP), 50x1.18x5 =295W of VRM designed power. The TDP is 250W ish with provision for 375W ish(50% power limit). At 375W, you would need roughly (very rough mind you, power consumption is quadratically proportional to voltage and linearly proportional to clockspeed) 1.5V. So with this information, I can surmise that the "safe" 24/7 voltage is leaning towards maybe the 1.35V range (which is about +125mV on a decent binned GPU) on air cooling where you are roughly still inside the AMD mandated maximum PCB power draw.
However, because the 290X VRM assembly is designed for optimal operation in the 250W zone, VRM temperatures rapidly spike at loads above this. Most would not attempt large overvoltages without watercooling since the act of having cooler temperatures reduces the power draw of the GPU at a given clockspeed, this will allow higher voltages, hence clockspeed, before tripping past the 375W danger zone. Plus, WC also deals with the high heat density of the VRMs beautifully.

4. 20-25% is a pretty large overclock for Hawaii. Most GPUs (barring the worst binned <70% ASIC ones) can seem to reach about 1080-1100mhz on stock voltage (around 1.212V, mine actually need +38mV to do 1100mhz but I think its because mine started off with a low stock voltage with not much headroom) 1150mhz requires at least +125mV (at least for my 2 cards with 78.9 and 79.9 ASIC quality) plus my 1200mhz clock is not stable even at a blistering +175mV (perhaps +200mV would do it). You may get better results under water, notably because your ASIC will draw less power overall thus having more overvoltage headroom (before the VRMs are running too much out of spec).
Edited by Dasboogieman - 6/29/14 at 9:22am
post #25320 of 43911
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasboogieman View Post

1. No clue about the versions, I know that the Tri X, there was an earlier and later model. Biggest difference was that the late model couldn't use the earlier model's BIOS due to changes in VRAM timings.

2. The black screen issue is most commonly associated with bad memory. The prevailing theory at the moment was that the earlier batches of cards had derped Elpida timings resulting in blackscreens at stock. Its pretty rare nowadays (though I daresay its more common with Elpida equipped cards than Hynix), you tend to see blackscreens more now due to unstable VRAM overclocks.

3. There is no real definite answer but I can share a rough guideline: very very rough, if anyone can help me clean it up, it would be much appreciated. Its not really voltage that kills components, its the power draw and heat, voltage alone is just an electrical potential.

The VRM MOSFETS are rated for up to 50A on the large ones and 20A on the smaller auxiliary ones, I am basing as rough estimate (I have limited knowledge on the intricacies of VRM design) that with 5 phases, it is reasonable to assume at a Vcore of 1.25V (stock worst binned GPU) and about 1.18V (VDROOP), 50x1.18x5 =295W of VRM designed power. The TDP is 250W ish with provision for 375W ish(50% power limit). At 375W, you would need roughly (very rough mind you, power consumption is quadratically proportional to voltage and linearly proportional to clockspeed) 1.5V. So with this information, I can surmise that the "safe" 24/7 voltage is leaning towards maybe the 1.35V range (which is about +125mV on a decent binned GPU) on air cooling where you are roughly still inside the AMD mandated maximum PCB power draw.
However, because the 290X VRM assembly is designed for optimal operation in the 250W zone, VRM temperatures rapidly spike at loads above this. Most would not attempt large overvoltages without watercooling since the act of having cooler temperatures reduces the power draw of the GPU at a given clockspeed, this will allow higher voltages, hence clockspeed, before tripping past the 375W danger zone. Plus, WC also deals with the high heat density of the VRMs beautifully.

4. 20-25% is a pretty large overclock for Hawaii. Most GPUs (barring the worst binned <70% ASIC ones) can seem to reach about 1080-1100mhz on stock voltage (around 1.212V, mine actually need +38mV to do 1100mhz but I think its because mine started off with a low stock voltage with not much headroom) 1150mhz requires at least +125mV (at least for my 2 cards with 78.9 and 79.9 ASIC quality) plus my 1200mhz clock is not stable even at a blistering +175mV (perhaps +200mV would do it). You may get better results under water, notably because your ASIC will draw less power overall thus having more overvoltage headroom (before the VRMs are running too much out of spec).

My 290X is 77.9% and does 1200MHz with 100mV under water. Did 1125MHz with stock voltage.
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