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post #34001 of 43916
Full copper, go w/ the AC, its smexy tongue.gif.

Also, xspc is making some pretty solid copper blocks though it covers the base entirely w/ the top. I don't like the multi-hole port system, too busy imho.

Tbh, if you're interested in gtx 980, wait for PI and see what 390X can do. We're close if amd is on schedule (though past experiences may prelude to a few, ahem, delays).
post #34002 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Full copper, go w/ the AC, its smexy tongue.gif.

Also, xspc is making some pretty solid copper blocks though it covers the base entirely w/ the top. I don't like the multi-hole port system, too busy imho.

Tbh, if you're interested in gtx 980, wait for PI and see what 390X can do. We're close if amd is on schedule (though past experiences may prelude to a few, ahem, delays).

I like the idea of full copper. But it does oxidize much faster than nickle. I think that is why heat-sheilds ect. are plated with nickle.
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post #34003 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Full copper, go w/ the AC, its smexy tongue.gif.

Also, xspc is making some pretty solid copper blocks though it covers the base entirely w/ the top. I don't like the multi-hole port system, too busy imho.

Tbh, if you're interested in gtx 980, wait for PI and see what 390X can do. We're close if amd is on schedule (though past experiences may prelude to a few, ahem, delays).
Thanks for feedback wermad , yeah man that Aquacomputer Hawaii is damn nice and a great performer , hence my preference to keep the block over the GPU biggrin.gif
Of cause this is after i get more info from Archea47 , hopefully and anyone else that may have good or bad experience on this subject , then i can access the situation better and make a plan.

I think this combo of block and GPU is very rare as far as i know , we may be the only 2.

And regards to the 980 option , if this whole situation does not work out quickly and easily , i regretfully have to say the build will be postponed in a major way , and will come to a complete hault ! for at least 6 months and i will do nothing what so ever and forget about it , i have other more important things in life to do , and will happily do so , other things require the money it will cost for to get another card.
In which case i will have an entirely new GPU and block for sure.

Why ? would anyone do that you may ask ? really ? answer because i do not care , i have not played a single minute on a game for well over a year ! , this is a project as an art form and more about the case and the build than what it will be used for , i have waited for 4 years to do this i will wait some more if i have to , but i do hope not to. thumb.gif
post #34004 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bertovzki View Post

Thanks for feedback wermad , yeah man that Aquacomputer Hawaii is damn nice and a great performer , hence my preference to keep the block over the GPU biggrin.gif
Of cause this is after i get more info from Archea47 , hopefully and anyone else that may have good or bad experience on this subject , then i can access the situation better and make a plan.

I think this combo of block and GPU is very rare as far as i know , we may be the only 2.

And regards to the 980 option , if this whole situation does not work out quickly and easily , i regretfully have to say the build will be postponed in a major way , and will come to a complete hault ! for at least 6 months and i will do nothing what so ever and forget about it , i have other more important things in life to do , and will happily do so , other things require the money it will cost for to get another card.
In which case i will have an entirely new GPU and block for sure.

Why ? would anyone do that you may ask ? really ? answer because i do not care , i have not played a single minute on a game for well over a year ! , this is a project as an art form and more about the case and the build than what it will be used for , i have waited for 4 years to do this i will wait some more if i have to , but i do hope not to. thumb.gif

Kind of like kicking the soccer ball as hard as you can even if your blindfolded and spinning in circles? hehe cheers.gif
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post #34005 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by pshootr View Post

Kind of like kicking the soccer ball as hard as you can even if your blindfolded and spinning in circles? hehe cheers.gif
Sorry dude not sure what you mean excuse my ignorance , i feel some frustration at being dicked around by Sapphire , but true what i say , i have things to do and urgent repairs on car , moving house , etc.. so im saving money , no spending , cant continue build if i need new card , will see what happens soon, may find easy fix for issue ,or just get my head into other things .
I dont mind giving the GPU to my old man , he is looking for a new GPU , he has been looking at the 290, he is near 70 , but has a better water cooled PC than me.

I can then buy a R10 490 when they are about thumb.gif , i will see what can be done , decisions to make , like do i take card apart and just see what i have to do ? will see soon thumb.gif
post #34006 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bertovzki View Post

0.030" sounds like its relatively small amount = 0.76 mm , but enough to mill right through the block in one spot you said ?
How did you get on with the second block ? can you please if you don't mind ,take some close up clear high resolution photos , so i can see what we are talking about as to the spot you milled right through , and so i can plan how to avoid it if i choose this option , which i will if it is a good option.

Thanks in advance for any help

And re EK blocks to other post from other member , once again thanks for the info , any is appreciated , but if this is only a nickel option , then this too is out of the question as i am only interested in full copper.

EDIT : i missed the post above , so there is a full copper if i really have to go this choice

The second block was a success. The copper did start to peel up a bit and one small piece did chip off but it was away from the seal

The first block failed the leak test. I packed the area with JB Water Weld and am going to leak test again in the morning. Yeah yeah, JB Weld, but it's no use at this point so it can't hurt

If your card is like mine, and I hope it isn't, .030" makes a difference because it meant I could see a sliver of light between the VRM cooler on the block and the thermal pad on the VRMs. These cards I have, which may or may not be different from yours, would obviously overheat immediately and I bought these for overclocking.

The difficulty I had milling them is 1.) the thickness of the area to begin with is only >0.050" and considering 2.) there's a seal pressing against that area for the water channel going to the VRM. As I milled to the point where the test fit finally cleared the copper started lifting from the acrylic (from the o-ring?). The cutting tool I was using was brand new but on both blocks it sort of chipped off a couple spots, and in the wrong spot (probably combined with the metal being pushed from the glass) like the first block it can compromise the seal

We'll see how it goes with the Water Weld on the leaker. FWIW I'll be running parallel (crossing fingers still)

Like Bertovzki I really want the Aquacomputer to work. I fell in love with the card at first sight, a few days after buying my previous set of 280Xs and was kicking myself for not going '90s. I think if I can't get it to work I might buy another Aquacomputer block and have a friend try cutting it at work on a cooled CNC. I admittedly never cut copper (except for the computer biggrin.gif ) and it can probably be done better
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post #34007 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archea47 View Post

The second block was a success. The copper did start to peel up a bit and one small piece did chip off but it was away from the seal

The first block failed the leak test. I packed the area with JB Water Weld and am going to leak test again in the morning. Yeah yeah, JB Weld, but it's no use at this point so it can't hurt

If your card is like mine, and I hope it isn't, .030" makes a difference because it meant I could see a sliver of light between the VRM cooler on the block and the thermal pad on the VRMs. These cards I have, which may or may not be different from yours, would obviously overheat immediately and I bought these for overclocking.

The difficulty I had milling them is 1.) the thickness of the area to begin with is only >0.050" and considering 2.) there's a seal pressing against that area for the water channel going to the VRM. As I milled to the point where the test fit finally cleared the copper started lifting from the acrylic (from the o-ring?). The cutting tool I was using was brand new but on both blocks it sort of chipped off a couple spots, and in the wrong spot (probably combined with the metal being pushed from the glass) like the first block it can compromise the seal

We'll see how it goes with the Water Weld on the leaker. FWIW I'll be running parallel (crossing fingers still)

Like Bertovzki I really want the Aquacomputer to work. I fell in love with the card at first sight, a few days after buying my previous set of 280Xs and was kicking myself for not going '90s. I think if I can't get it to work I might buy another Aquacomputer block and have a friend try cutting it at work on a cooled CNC. I admittedly never cut copper (except for the computer biggrin.gif ) and it can probably be done better
Ok thanks a heap for the feadback , i appreciate your time and effort to do so , it does not sound too hopeful.

My old man has a milling machine , i have a few options , not sure what to do , giving the card away and pulling plug on this build most likely , at this stage , thinking ill cut my loses and try and sell the lot or give it away , probably not without trying a refund from Sapphire "idiots for giving wrong info " or void warranty and see if my card fits after taking the ambient cooler off.

Or i have to buy another block to fit which will be extremely annoying , if i do i will try and mill the Aqua first i guess as nothing to loose it is useless otherwise
Damn Sapphire support !! mad.gif

Thanks again decisions decisions what to do budget stretched already way beyond what my original MOBO , GPU RAM , OS , and that was all , hell iv spent probably 3500 since then on tools and components.
post #34008 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by pshootr View Post

I like the idea of full copper. But it does oxidize much faster than nickle. I think that is why heat-sheilds ect. are plated with nickle.

It tarnishes into a dull brown eventually. It really has to be put in a position w/ a lot of air and moisture/water to make it patina. I've seen a few builds that were never drained for over a year and the copper is fine. Think about this; the pipes that route clean water in your home probably are copper and they have to last decades. Also, think of the water as an abrasive element, so less likely to patina.

The one thing w/ nickel is the failure. It has happened and it will happen. Though, there's no ill affect other then you end up w/ areas of small exposed copper. Nickel is just for looks, that's all.
post #34009 of 43916
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

It tarnishes into a dull brown eventually. It really has to be put in a position w/ a lot of air and moisture/water to make it patina. I've seen a few builds that were never drained for over a year and the copper is fine. Think about this; the pipes that route clean water in your home probably are copper and they have to last decades. Also, think of the water as an abrasive element, so less likely to patina.

The one thing w/ nickel is the failure. It has happened and it will happen. Though, there's no ill affect other then you end up w/ areas of small exposed copper. Nickel is just for looks, that's all.[/quotPoint taken.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

It tarnishes into a dull brown eventually. It really has to be put in a position w/ a lot of air and moisture/water to make it patina. I've seen a few builds that were never drained for over a year and the copper is fine. Think about this; the pipes that route clean water in your home probably are copper and they have to last decades. Also, think of the water as an abrasive element, so less likely to patina.

The one thing w/ nickel is the failure. It has happened and it will happen. Though, there's no ill affect other then you end up w/ areas of small exposed copper. Nickel is just for looks, that's all.

Yes very true. However in the long term, nickle will hold up way longer. Have you ever seen a penny dropped in to salt water? The effects are large compared to nickle. Large companies have a standard of quality and endurance to keep in place, as well as an aesthetic quality.

I understand that for someone who wants to keep hardware for a few years, this is no problem, but that is not the way large companies think about it as far as standard goes..
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post #34010 of 43916
Imagine if you were a company and after a few years your machines possessor had green stuff on it.
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