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240mm Push Pull Rad WITH FINS Rosewill Thor V2

post #1 of 9
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After recently purchasing the Rosewill Thor V2 from Newegg I found myself in the same "dilemma boat" as everyone else. I realized upon purchasing it (too late) that the fins on the top prevented a push pull radiator from being an existing option without using expensive slim line fans.

I set out to make that a false positive as I have many others with cases I've owned in the past, but since this one isn't some cheapo get me by build ( I actually intend on USING this case for a while) I figured why not share the profit with everyone.

This requires diligence, patience, and EXTREME CAUTION. We are going to be creating a channel in the fin that allows your fan to rest inside, and it has to be PAPER THIN. If you do not trust your hands steadiness, or your ability to gauge width without transparency do NOT try this.

SO, without Further Adieu here is the tutorial on how to modify your Rosewill Thor V2 case to accomodate a 240mm Radiator in Push Pull Configuration and keep your fins ENTIRELY INTACT! (visually from the top.)

Supplies Needed:
◙ Steady Hands (Seriously, some of this is going to test your abilities.)
◙ Dremel (Any speed will work, we'll only be cutting small pieces of ABS Plastic.
◙ Protective Eyewear (Safety glasses, fool)
◙ Breathing mask (I recommend this highly, as melting plastic creates harmful fumes.)
◙ Dremel Engraving Bit (A sanding sick, or sanding bit can work too, but that's something I won't guarantee will look anywhere near visually pleasing if you're a mild perfectionist such as myself.
◙ Razor Blade or sharp knife with thin blade.
◙ Pliers The wider the nose the better. These will be used to twist-break some pieces of plastic on the fins, and needlenose would make this dredingly slow.
◙ Rosewill Thor V2 Case (Can't do this without it, afterall.
◙ Well Ventilated room (NECESSITY Plastic fumes are NO fun.)

Instructions:

◙ First, remove the top utilizing the back holster CAREFULLY (These things are known to snap apparently.)

◙ Next remove the last three fins from the assembly. The first two will not get in your way unless you're using 140mm fans in which case I'm not even sure this would work for you so stop right now.

◙ Now that your fins are off, flip them over and look at the bottom of the fins. You'll notice a small lip at the end of the back of the fin (A small flat piece of plastic that's OBVIOUSLY extending past the fin itself (I'd show pictures, but I removed these before I even considered making the tutorial.)

◙ Take your pliers, and SLOWLY and CAREFULLY clasp the small lip with the pliers. Once tightened simply bend the lip down, and up until you feel it break. Continue doing this piece by piece until you've removed the full lip from the fins.

◙ With the lip removed we know go into the back of the fin (under side)

◙ You'll notice two very thin ridges in an arrow shape on the back of the fin. They're nearly paper thin, about 5mm tall, and completely useless. Remove them both with your pliers by grasping them in the pliers mouth, then slowly twist your wrist to "snap" the plastic off chunk by chunk. After removing them you have the option of sanding it down, or not. Visual aesthetics are up to you, afterall.

◙ Now that we've gotten all the ridges, and lips out of the way we move onto the hard part. This requires diligence, patience, and EXTREME CAUTION. We are going to be creating a channel in the fin that allows your fan to rest inside, and it has to be PAPER THIN. If you do not trust your hands steadiness, or your ability to gauge width without transparency do NOT try this.

◙ Put your engraving bit (or sanding disk if you so choose to use it) onto your dremel, and make sure that it's tight. A slipping bit could equal disaster for this project. Alternatively, if you have, and know how to do something like this on an angled surface with a router I leave that option up to you, but I think this is more "fail proof."

◙ Mark your fins using whatever method you want to give yourself "guidelines" of where the channels need to be. Also note that your fans MAY have support brackets that you'll need to channel for as well (each fan will vary on how this needs to happen, and whether it would even be possible.) I'm using some 4.99ea Rosewill 79 CFM fans I found at newegg, so if you want to use those, then by all means.

◙ WIth your guidelines in place begin grinding down the plastic within your "channel." The plastic will need to be about paper thin by the time you're done to ensure it will let the fins open. It ONLY needs to be thin towards the end, as that's the part that will be touching (or now going above) your fans.

◙ Re-assemble your fins, and test it out. If you notice they're popping off to the side a little, or take too much pressure then you've still got a little bit of work ahead of you before you're done. Just keep grinding away until you've got it perfected.

◙ ENJOY! Congratulations. Now you can run your case with the fins on and a push pull double radiator.

Notable Facts: Closing the fins traps the airflow pretty much. I've even removed the plastic lip on the inside of the grasping handle to remove the top, and it still doesn't let much airflow out, but hey, what can you do...
I used a seidon 240m with the stock cooler master fans that come with it as push inside the case, and two Rosewill 79 CFM Fans from Newegg that cost me like 4.99 each as my pulls on the top of the case. Both types of fans are 120x120x25mm.



Here is a pic showing the parts for the destructive steps.:


The finished product from the back (so you can see the fans underneath it:)
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post #2 of 9
This is my rosewill thor V2 2 360mm rads inside.

bo0kdgW.jpg
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post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Its difficult to tell but are you running push pull and for the top 360 did you have to cut the top of the chassis itself or did it fit but only mount with 240 worth or did you do a total conversion?
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post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
I'm going to assume that in conjunction with your inability to respond, and obvious case modifications to the hard drive bay that you did in fact have to cut the top (especially if you wanted airflow) and also would have had to modify the top panel as it'd be sitting directly over the radiator (depending on where you have it mounted.)
The purpose of this thread was to inform people that they could achieve a 240mm radiator in push pull without modifying anything that would be obvious to the unsuspecting eye.
Someone that has this case could easily walk up to it and unless they lift my top panel off they'd never guess that I modified anything.
Sure, there are now slight (literally mm in width) gaps between the fins where they close, and they're not closed off by the fin wings that I removed, but quite frankly I didn't like having those completely closed when "silent" mode was engaged anyways since the top panel had that small wall where your fingers pull it off (which I also removed) completely restricting airflow when you closed the fins causing pressure unnecessarily at the top of the case.
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post #5 of 9
For whatever it's worth, dracconus, I appreciate this thread. I am looking to start gathering resources for WC when I have a better idea of funding, and was basically resigning to having to do an external rad until I found the link to this. Thank you!
    
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post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
never a problem. Glad that it was found to be of benefit to someone other than myself. As was the intended goal.
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post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by dracconus View Post

I'm going to assume that in conjunction with your inability to respond, and obvious case modifications to the hard drive bay that you did in fact have to cut the top (especially if you wanted airflow) and also would have had to modify the top panel as it'd be sitting directly over the radiator (depending on where you have it mounted.)
The purpose of this thread was to inform people that they could achieve a 240mm radiator in push pull without modifying anything that would be obvious to the unsuspecting eye.
Someone that has this case could easily walk up to it and unless they lift my top panel off they'd never guess that I modified anything.
Sure, there are now slight (literally mm in width) gaps between the fins where they close, and they're not closed off by the fin wings that I removed, but quite frankly I didn't like having those completely closed when "silent" mode was engaged anyways since the top panel had that small wall where your fingers pull it off (which I also removed) completely restricting airflow when you closed the fins causing pressure unnecessarily at the top of the case.

No i did not cut any of the top at all.
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post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShortySmalls View Post

No i did not cut any of the top at all.
Then what exactly is the fan blowing, or pulling air into/out of on the furthest right hand of the radiator? Looking into the acrylic windows I've got in my three sections atop the side panel of my thor I notice that your fan is blowing air into/sucking air from a piece of the case that has no air flow to my knowledge...
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3x 120mm Rosewill 79CFM fans 1x 140mm Rosewill 90CFM Fan Cooler Master 240m with 2x120mm Cooler Master f... 1x 90mm Fan pci bracket mounted to cool Northbr... 
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post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by dracconus View Post

Then what exactly is the fan blowing, or pulling air into/out of on the furthest right hand of the radiator? Looking into the acrylic windows I've got in my three sections atop the side panel of my thor I notice that your fan is blowing air into/sucking air from a piece of the case that has no air flow to my knowledge...

I got rid of my Thor many months ago, but im pretty sure the last fan was pushing air into into a chamber which went to the big vents
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