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[Build Log] SM8 Watercooled - Page 3

post #21 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragsters View Post

Hey. Great job! Curious on what you are going to do when you want to drain the system?
Thank you and really good question, after I was done leak testing with distilled water I had to drain the loop, well it did not turn out the way I had planned. I installed a valve on the bottom of the front 360, the thinking was it is the lowest part of the loop and would drain all the water/coolant out. however when I removed one of the plugs from the top 360 and opened the valve only the rad drained! This is something that I will have to fix, next time around. My new plan is to add a T fitting on the pump.

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post #22 of 88
Nice build! Very clean. I should take some lessons in cable management. Please update when you receive the controller/cable splitters and post your results. I'm having some issues with lower than wanted rpm for on my fans.
post #23 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lourad View Post

Thank you and really good question, after I was done leak testing with distilled water I had to drain the loop, well it did not turn out the way I had planned. I installed a valve on the bottom of the front 360, the thinking was it is the lowest part of the loop and would drain all the water/coolant out. however when I removed one of the plugs from the top 360 and opened the valve only the rad drained! This is something that I will have to fix, next time around. My new plan is to add a T fitting on the pump.
After you've drained your front rad, you can still drain your reservoir by turning on your pump and forcing the coolant to fill up your front rad. Just keep an eye out to ensure you're not running your pump dry.

If you re-route your top rad to have the inlet & outlets to be on the front side of your case, you can basically tilt your case forward and drain both the top and front rads using gravity when you open your drain valvce. Then turn on your pump to move the coolant to your rads and then drain again.

Make sure to unplug your 24pin ATX power plug from your mobo, jumper your PSU, plug your pump to your PSU so that you're not putting any power to your mobo & components as a safety precaution.
post #24 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captivate View Post

Nice build! Very clean. I should take some lessons in cable management. Please update when you receive the controller/cable splitters and post your results. I'm having some issues with lower than wanted rpm for on my fans.

Thank you for your kind words, as for cable management it's just a matter of taken your time and not trying to do all your wires at once. What I mean is zip up a couple make them look nice then add to that run as needed.
I think that because there will be 3 fans per channel that I will have to control them by volts, that is the answer I got from the Lamptron post I made. Sorry for not giving credit to the nice person who responded, but can't remember his name at this moment.
There will be updates with pics as I go. smile.gif
post #25 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimoswabi View Post

After you've drained your front rad, you can still drain your reservoir by turning on your pump and forcing the coolant to fill up your front rad. Just keep an eye out to ensure you're not running your pump dry.

If you re-route your top rad to have the inlet & outlets to be on the front side of your case, you can basically tilt your case forward and drain both the top and front rads using gravity when you open your drain valvce. Then turn on your pump to move the coolant to your rads and then drain again.

Make sure to unplug your 24pin ATX power plug from your mobo, jumper your PSU, plug your pump to your PSU so that you're not putting any power to your mobo & components as a safety precaution.

Thank you for your suggestions.
One question though, If I added a T fitting and another valve to the pumps out that goes to the gpu would that make draining the current loop any easier? My thinking is that should drain everything but the front rad witch as unplanned as it is has it's own drain valve now.
again Thank you for your help!
post #26 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lourad View Post

Thank you for your suggestions.
One question though, If I added a T fitting and another valve to the pumps out that goes to the gpu would that make draining the current loop any easier? My thinking is that should drain everything but the front rad witch as unplanned as it is has it's own drain valve now.
again Thank you for your help!

Yep! That should drain most of your coolant in your loop. You'll just need to do a little bit of tilting to get the top rad fully drained.
Btw, good work on the clean build and the cable management!! Makes your SM8 look way too roomy.
Also, have you thought about lighting the inside of your case? A little LED light might really accent your red coolant against the black background.
post #27 of 88
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimoswabi View Post

After you've drained your front rad, you can still drain your reservoir by turning on your pump and forcing the coolant to fill up your front rad. Just keep an eye out to ensure you're not running your pump dry.

If you re-route your top rad to have the inlet & outlets to be on the front side of your case, you can basically tilt your case forward and drain both the top and front rads using gravity when you open your drain valvce. Then turn on your pump to move the coolant to your rads and then drain again.

Make sure to unplug your 24pin ATX power plug from your mobo, jumper your PSU, plug your pump to your PSU so that you're not putting any power to your mobo & components as a safety precaution.

See I'm wondering the same thing. If you make a T-line right after your pump, and you open it, does the pump still 'suck' air and push it forward? Even when the loop is open?
post #28 of 88
Gravity will pull the coolant out as liquid/ coolant is quite heavy. Imagine taking a 2-liter bottle and hold it upside down and open the cap. There's only 1 entry point for the air to enter and liquid to exit but gravity will force the liquid out the bottom.
post #29 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captivate View Post

See I'm wondering the same thing. If you make a T-line right after your pump, and you open it, does the pump still 'suck' air and push it forward? Even when the loop is open?

I have ut360's, they have 7 ports. I think if I take the top off my SM8, remove one of the top plugs to let air in then open the valve. The coolant should drain freely.
If I am wrong(won't be the first time) please let me know.
Thank you.
post #30 of 88
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kimoswabi View Post

Yep! That should drain most of your coolant in your loop. You'll just need to do a little bit of tilting to get the top rad fully drained.
Btw, good work on the clean build and the cable management!! Makes your SM8 look way too roomy.
Also, have you thought about lighting the inside of your case? A little LED light might really accent your red coolant against the black background.

Thank you,
I agree about it looking roomy, maybe a little empty. I have another 6 fans and a CW611 controller on there way, the rads will be in push/pull and the controller will be in the top bay.
It was always part of my plan but I was doing this build a few parts at a time to try to make sure everything I wanted to do could be done. And as for lighting it too is a part of my plan, just haven't gotten to that part yet. I am thinking Bitfenix white leds, 2 or 4 strips not sure yet. anyway they will also be hooked up to the controller, this way I can dim them if needed.
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