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Leak at reservoir fitting

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
I have an XSPC dual bay acrylic reservoir and there is a leak the outlet of the tank. I am about to install a small 120mm radiator and new video card so I can change up the system some and flush the system/add new water. However, I am not sure what to do about the leak. Is it likely that the acrylic has small stress cracks there and I need to buy a new non-acrylic reservoir? I will be running some new tubing to add in the 2nd radiator, so I am not sure if that will let me fix the problem by only redoing the fittings. I did already check the in-place compression fittings and everything seemed tight, but I haven't been able to closely inspect the reservoir since I can't remove it from the case without dismantling my loop (guess I should have had excess tubing to give me leeway ;p).

While I am at it, I want to lower the pump speed of my D5, as it is located inside the reservoir and 100% impossible to change when inside the case. So for an EX360 radiator at the top, CPU and video card waterblock in middle, AX120 radiator at the bottom, and the reservoir in the middle - what speed of the D5 pump would be suggested? At max speed 5 it is too loud - this was overkill for CPU/1 video card/EX360 radiator combo, but now I am adding the 120mm radiator at the bottom of the case.

Thanks for the help.
post #2 of 4
I had a problem with the accrylic on my res. There were stress cracks where it screwed to the base and it was leaking at the cracks. Luckily I was able to unscrew the tube and flip it. This time instead of using torq to seal the tube to the threads, I used a bit of teflon tape. Worked like a charm! If you have stress cracks at a threaded area, they WILL get bigger. If you can't flip like I did, then you need to replace the acrylic.

For your pump speed, is that the one with the speed control nob? I have a that pump, just rebranded. The pump has so much less to do with temperature than radiators. Even at it's lowest setting I cant imagine temps would be more than a degree or two higher than at any other setting. You could always experiment. For mine, the lowest setting was as effective on my CPU as the highest, so I turned the speed nob until the resonate sound from the pump and the fans were equal, somewhat canceling out each other. I say somewhat because obviuosly they still are all slightly audible.
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post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by wizardonthejob View Post

I had a problem with the accrylic on my res. There were stress cracks where it screwed to the base and it was leaking at the cracks. Luckily I was able to unscrew the tube and flip it. This time instead of using torq to seal the tube to the threads, I used a bit of teflon tape. Worked like a charm! If you have stress cracks at a threaded area, they WILL get bigger. If you can't flip like I did, then you need to replace the acrylic.

It is around outlet/threaded area that is the issue unfortunately - I can see where water dried. Since the reservoir is a big rectangle that takes up two drive bays with the inlet and outlet next to each other, I can't flip it around. So I might need to go ahead and order a new reservoir, sigh. Spent enough money as is on the new video card, 120mm radiator, and water block. My dad assures me that he has some sort of glue that will find cracks in acrylic and fix it, but I have no idea if that would work and what the resulting acrylic would look like.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wizardonthejob View Post

For your pump speed, is that the one with the speed control nob? I have a that pump, just rebranded. The pump has so much less to do with temperature than radiators. Even at it's lowest setting I cant imagine temps would be more than a degree or two higher than at any other setting. You could always experiment. For mine, the lowest setting was as effective on my CPU as the highest, so I turned the speed nob until the resonate sound from the pump and the fans were equal, somewhat canceling out each other. I say somewhat because obviuosly they still are all slightly audible.

Yes, it is the pump with 5 settings on a knob. Good to know that it will work even with setting 1. I think I'll first test at 2 or 3. It is just a pain to change it because of how the reservoir is designed and where the pump fits.
post #4 of 4
Im sorry, I dont know why I just assumed you had a tube rez. Yea, fixing a leak in a bay res would be more difficult. I have heard of that glue, but it's hit or miss. I would replalce the rez, it's just not worth the risk.

Yes, definately test the pump at lower speeds first. I would recomend running prime95 and furmark simultaneously to generate the maximum amount of heat.

Bare in mind that running prime95 and furmark at the same time will serve as the absolute worst case heat scenario for your computer. It is very likely you will never do anything on your own to stress your pc to these limits. High temps are to be expected here. Consider this when choosing the speed of your pump.
Edited by WizardontheJob - 10/25/13 at 10:05am
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2 x Noctua (NF-P12-1300 )1300rpm Premium Silent... 2 x Corsair Air Series SP120   COUGAR CF-V12H Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing  Monsoon 90° Rotary Angle Fitting - 5/8" - Red 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 100 ... ModMyToys DreamFlex Premium 3/8" ID Tubing Reta... Coolance Liquid Coolant Bottle, 700mL Fluoresce... Coolance PMP 450 Variable Speed D5 Pump 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bitspower D5 Mod Top V2 Pom version Alphacool NexXxos UT60 Full Copper Radiator 240 Noctua NF-A6X25 FLX Quiet Computer Cooling Fan ... NZXT Sentry Mesh Fan Controller w/ Five 30 watt... 
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FX-4300 Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 EVGA Geforce GTX 260 G.Skill Ripjaws X 
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Corsair SSD Samsung 7200 Laptop drive Some DVD Burner I took out of a dead Dell. Noctua NH-C12P SE14 
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