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Installation guide/tips of REV.2 Icy Vision on R9 290X - Page 13

post #121 of 261
I still cant believe how good gelid is at gpu cooling. Temps are really low. Even any custom cooler like sapphire dual-x, windforce, directcu, cant match gelid temps.


The weak part, is the vrm1, I'd made a custom heatsink that improve the temps a little. Btw, I'd tried to use thermal paste on vrm1, and created some kind of shortcircuit. Not sure if was touching any of the smd resistor around there.. maybe Ill try again..
Edited by trihy - 1/28/14 at 4:19am
post #122 of 261
Yup:-))) Gelid has amazingly good results, even if is cheap:-)))
post #123 of 261
Quote:
Originally Posted by trihy View Post

I still cant believe how good gelid is at gpu cooling. Temps are really low. Even any custom cooler like sapphire dual-x, windforce, directcu, cant match gelid temps.


The weak part, is the vrm1, I'd made a custom heatsink that improve the temps a little. Btw, I'd tried to use thermal paste on vrm1, and created some kind of shortcircuit. Not sure if was touching any of the smd resistor around there.. maybe Ill try again..

What TIM did you use? Good thing is your card is still ok. smile.gif
    
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post #124 of 261
I'd used the one that comes with the gelid kit. I think it's called gs2 or something like that.

Pc turned on for a sec and then goes off. Im not really sure if 3 pin fan was connected wrong and caused this.. or the vrm heatsink was touching other components..

I was a little afraid to test further, so went back to thermal pad.

On the other side, after playing with heatsinks, thermal pad doesnt look that clean anymore frown.gif

Maybe Ill try again with the paste.. there is no reason to not work fine. The top metal part of the vrm's should be the same as ground, right?
post #125 of 261
AFAIK the top metal part of the VRMs are not supposed to be electrically conductive / no ground etc. but only the terminals on the sides should not be in contact with the heatsink / metal / conductive TIMs.
    
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post #126 of 261
Thats probably right.. I wonder what was making short circuit... maybe the tiny smd resistor close to the vrm.. to make it worst, they are taller than the vrms frown.gif
Edited by trihy - 1/28/14 at 8:36am
post #127 of 261
You made a custom heatsink and tweak it a little and try to sand the heatsink more on the side of the resistor so it wont touch and it will give more contact to the VRMs. thumb.gif

Looking at the pic below it seems that the 4 contact terminals of the VRMs are lower than the top and the contact of the resistor is exposed and raised.


Edited by Loktar Ogar - 1/28/14 at 9:42am
    
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post #128 of 261
Yes, looks like the tiny ones are touching the heatsink...

I'd been sanding aluminiun for the last three days frown.gif Ill take a breath before starting again biggrin.gif


Im pretty sure temps will go way down with direct heatsink contact instead of 1mm pad..
Edited by trihy - 1/28/14 at 9:09am
post #129 of 261
I've read an old review about this with water blocks there are good results when doing this and in paper/specs the TIMs has higher heat transfer than the Pads unless you are going to use a 7W/mK thermal pads but i think TIMs are still better because of the direct contact to the heatsink. I don't have a watercooling system so that is why i'm interested on this as well. biggrin.gif

Try a metal file, it will be much easier.
    
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post #130 of 261
Im not sure the thermal transfer of the tim is going to make much difference if the sink itself has already reached thermal saturation.

More surface area for heat exchange, more air to reduce saturation, or a material with a higher heat saturation point are the real answers.
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