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i5-4670K Heating Problem - Page 2

post #11 of 24
I think best is experimenting with encoding videos with some program that is well optimized for that. It will use all of your CPU, and it will be the highest temperature you will see with a normal program. The program Handbrake might be easy to use, choose x264 video codec.

Perhaps try to have the CPU below 85C or 80C at all times. If you stay close to 70C with your experiments, it should still stay below 80C even on a hot summer day (at least that's how it works where I'm from). Games will generally be a lot less stressful on the CPU than encoding videos. You will see below 60C in games, I'm pretty sure, though I have no idea about BF4.

If you look into overclocking and use some sort of stress test like prime95 to check stability, you shouldn't worry much about temperatures while stress testing. You can go as high as you like, though make sure that your CPU does not start to throttle. You have already seen that nothing will happen even when hitting 100C by mistake. Stress testing with something like prime95 will get the CPU much hotter than normal programs. In normal use, the CPU will stay much cooler and it will be safe. That said, I feel uncomfortable with that kind of testing and temperatures, and I would not do this much. I would only do this if I know it crashes within minutes and I have a good chance to learn about stable settings with that test. When running a test for hours, I would go back to that 80C suggestion.
post #12 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forceman View Post

In normal use try you should expect to keep it in the 60s or 70s (most people stress test in the 80s). Can you not remove the CPU cooler and try re-seating it, instead of just waiting for the new one? The stock cooler should keep it cooler than that, so it's pretty obviously a mounting problem.

I am interested in giving it a shot in the hopes that I just don't have to wait. How would I go about re-seating the CPU cooler without removing it? Do you mean adjusting the four legs that are connected to the motherboard (i.e. disconnecting it, and inserting it back one leg at a time)?

And would I have to remove the motherboard from the case to do this procedure?
    
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Intel Core i5 Intel HD Graphics 5000 Mac OS X Yosemite 
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post #13 of 24
Just push on that one pin that's not correctly fastened! Look up a Youtube video on installing the Intel stock cooler to get a feel on how that looks, how it should sound, how strong you might have to push.

Better don't take off the cooler completely. It will destroy good application of thermal paste, will introduce air pockets. You would best need to completely clean the old paste off and put new paste on if you do that.
Edited by deepor - 10/28/13 at 12:32pm
post #14 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by Passion View Post

I am interested in giving it a shot in the hopes that I just don't have to wait. How would I go about re-seating the CPU cooler without removing it? Do you mean adjusting the four legs that are connected to the motherboard (i.e. disconnecting it, and inserting it back one leg at a time)?

And would I have to remove the motherboard from the case to do this procedure?

You shouldn't have to remove the motherboard. Just try removing the one pin that isn't full seated and reseating it (you have to mess with the twist top sometimes to get it to fully seat) and see if that helps. If not you can remove the cooler completely and check to make sure there isn't anything foreign in there that might be making it not sit right, and then put it back on. Ideally you'd want to use new thermal paste when you do that, but worst case you can just put it back on with what came with it (it'll be worse than new paste, but still might be better than what you have now).

But I've had stock coolers that didn't have one pin all the way in, and with the pressure the other three apply it lifts the edge of the cooler off the CPU and really hurts performance. Just seating that last pin should really help you out.
post #15 of 24
Thread Starter 
Updates...

That pin is still being stubborn. I removed it, and tried to reinsert it. It doesn't seem like it was properly inserted in the first place, and I cannot get it after applying sufficient pressure. Since I am most likely stranded until my aftermarket cooler arrives, I decided to test out the other pins.

The other pins were easy to remove and reinsert -- there was a tactile feel once it was properly inserted. Interestingly, when I tried to remove the CPU cooler all together, the pin directly below the "stubborn one" is very difficult to remove in comparison to the working pins.
    
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post #16 of 24
Try pushing on the CPU cooler while you press the pin in - the mounting pressure always makes the last one really hard to get in. Also the little inside pin thing that locks it sometimes gets pushed down before the tabs can go through the motherboard hole and lock to the back side, which makes it pretty much impossible to push the pin through the motherboard. So you have to really fool with it sometimes - it's a terrible mounting system.
post #17 of 24
Thread Starter 
That makes a lot of sense, but here's a curve ball. When I try placing the "stubborn pin" first, it still does not go in all the way. Will try again in a few minutes.

I just pulled out the CPU cooler, and all the pins appear to be in working order... which, makes this strange.

UPDATE: OK, so on closer inspection I spotted the problem with the pins. The white plastic tip on the "stubborn pin" has been bent, which explains why it was not cooperating from the get-go; I only exacerbated the problem. The stock cooler is going to be thrown out. I just cleaned the CPU before the paste hardened, and will wait until Wednesday -- that is when the order should arrive. frown.gif

Delays to playing BF4 = mad.gif
Edited by Passion - 10/28/13 at 3:24pm
    
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post #18 of 24
yeah the intel pin design is terrible. Former owner probably had a better cooer on it and put back the old one to sell it. Problem is those pins are basically single use. Getting them to work more than once is always very annoying. you CAN get superior replacement pins for a few bucks for the same cooler, and you may want to if and when you sell it on, but honestly, a better cooler is worth the money. Assuming you don;t buy something ridiculous of course.

What did you wind up getting BTW?
New gaming rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4770k some mid range asrock. extreme 4 maybe? 2x gigabyte windforce 7950 2 x 8 corsair balistix sport 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
crucial ct960 LG blu-ray used venamous x win 8.1 pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Crossover 30Q5 PRO 30" 2560X1600  cheapest piece of crud I could find antec HCG 750 some thermaltake microcenter blue-light-special... 
MouseMouse PadAudio
came with the cheapass keyboard who cares? some $30 no name 2+sub speakers I bought at mic... 
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New gaming rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4770k some mid range asrock. extreme 4 maybe? 2x gigabyte windforce 7950 2 x 8 corsair balistix sport 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
crucial ct960 LG blu-ray used venamous x win 8.1 pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Crossover 30Q5 PRO 30" 2560X1600  cheapest piece of crud I could find antec HCG 750 some thermaltake microcenter blue-light-special... 
MouseMouse PadAudio
came with the cheapass keyboard who cares? some $30 no name 2+sub speakers I bought at mic... 
  hide details  
Reply
post #19 of 24
Thread Starter 
Bombastinator, Forceman, deepor, and Heimdallr: Thank you guys for your help in troubleshooting this frustrating problem. thumb.gif

Here's to hoping that all problems will be resolved on Wednesday. biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by bombastinator View Post

What did you wind up getting BTW?

Cool Master 212 Hyper EVO
Edited by Passion - 10/28/13 at 7:00pm
    
CPUGraphicsOS
Intel Core i5 Intel HD Graphics 5000 Mac OS X Yosemite 
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CPUGraphicsOS
Intel Core i5 Intel HD Graphics 5000 Mac OS X Yosemite 
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post #20 of 24
That's what I got. It works really well and is pretty easy to set up. comes with decent paste even. You need access to the back of the oard to put the nuts on though, so if you don't have that in your case you'll have to pull out your motherboard.
Edited by bombastinator - 10/28/13 at 7:43pm
New gaming rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4770k some mid range asrock. extreme 4 maybe? 2x gigabyte windforce 7950 2 x 8 corsair balistix sport 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
crucial ct960 LG blu-ray used venamous x win 8.1 pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Crossover 30Q5 PRO 30" 2560X1600  cheapest piece of crud I could find antec HCG 750 some thermaltake microcenter blue-light-special... 
MouseMouse PadAudio
came with the cheapass keyboard who cares? some $30 no name 2+sub speakers I bought at mic... 
  hide details  
Reply
New gaming rig
(15 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4770k some mid range asrock. extreme 4 maybe? 2x gigabyte windforce 7950 2 x 8 corsair balistix sport 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
crucial ct960 LG blu-ray used venamous x win 8.1 pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Crossover 30Q5 PRO 30" 2560X1600  cheapest piece of crud I could find antec HCG 750 some thermaltake microcenter blue-light-special... 
MouseMouse PadAudio
came with the cheapass keyboard who cares? some $30 no name 2+sub speakers I bought at mic... 
  hide details  
Reply
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