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A little confused with a thermal paste issue please help.

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
So i decided to water cool my rig. On the first go I incorrectly applied my thermal paste on the gpu by letting air pockets form in between the chip and the water block. So I reapplied some article silver 5. It's been 3 days and it still reaches temperatures above 100 degrees Celsius and causes my computer to crash when attempting to play games. I'm wondering is this normal or should I take off the thermal paste and try to reapply it? I know about the 200 hour/thermal cycle break in period, but I'm wondering is playing visually demanding games something I'm not supposed to do during this period. Any help is greatly appreciated. My parts are listed below but if need other parts just ask and I will list. Thanks.

My build:
CPU: i7-3770k
GPU: EVGA GTX 680
Koolance water blocks for both
Pump: Swiftech MCP655 w/ variable speed
Case: NZXT Phantom 820
post #2 of 6
Are you sure you don't have air in your loop or something? Even without paste I don't think it should be getting that hot under water...
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
I don't think so because my CPU temperatures are normal even and around 55 to 60 degrees Celsius at load. Do you think I should drain the loop and refill?
post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the help I just shook my case and I saw some bubbles flow through the tubing. I'm going to bleed out the bubbles more thourghly this time. smile.gif Thanks again.
post #5 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desperado37 View Post

Thanks for the help I just shook my case and I saw some bubbles flow through the tubing. I'm going to bleed out the bubbles more thourghly this time. smile.gif Thanks again.

I had a feeling that had to be the case... make sure you properly bleed the system and things should be looking up in no time thumb.gif
post #6 of 6
On the contact material front I've read all sorts of instructions on how to spread it out "properly" etc and I wanted to share the CORRECT way to apply compound with you all.
I learned it from a builder of high power custom amplifiers. I've added my experience to this as well.


#1 If they sell it online it's crap, a storefront like CompUSA will have the compound they use when building warranted systems for sale.
#2 Clean both surfaces with vinegar, then alcohol, then rub the crap out of them with really cheap toilet paper. Better than steel wool, finer than ebon rouge.
#3 Carefully build a single blob at the center.
#4 Lay device containing chip flat on a firm but non-marring surface.
#5 Slowly lower waterblock onto surface with 20° rotation twisting back and forth.
#6 KEEP twisting back and forth. Brutally. You're crushing the air out of it like its time to feed a child murderer a pillow.
#6a I MEAN BRUTAL, keep the pressure on. You're doing this to maximize performance not to have a run-of-the-mill card. If you're not willing, don't start.
#7 Hold it there and have someone else assemble the bracket.
#8 Wipe up all that wasted money from around the edge with yarn-on-a-stick.

Thermal conduction compounds are used to fill the voids where the surfaces DON'T make immediate contact, it is NEVER as efficient as direct contact. If there are air gaps due to the uneven surfaces of the heat spreader OR the waterblock, you will trap air within these. You cannot apply compound like tile mortar, you have to make it wet both surfaces as it expands. This is one of the problems with most manufactured heat sinks installed on graphics cards, they blob it on then just tighten the screws. I recently rebuilt a pair of 6970 vapor chamber cards and one had to have an aftermarket kit because it's vapor chamber plane was concave! The other one was riding on enough "thermal glue" for me to sink five 4930s.
They both, three years old, work better than they did new.
Edited by prjindigo - 11/6/13 at 11:27am
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