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Watercooled Lian Li PC-A05NB µATX - Retired - Page 2

post #11 of 19
Thread Starter 
1:00am, I need to stop and go to sleep!

Put some tubing in, my fingers are hating me right now... especially the 45° cpu out to 45° rad inlet mad.gif



Hooked up an external psu, and started the leak test! Results - No Leaks!! However, the pump is extremely loud. Considerably more so than when it was in my TJ08-E. Could this be due to me not using the sponge inside the res? I notice I can follow the stream of air bubbles through out the run. I've tipped the case all sorts of directions in hopes of getting the air out. Anyways, I'll let it run overnight and check up in the morning before I head off to work. Most likely leave it run the whole day as well. Been a long day so I'm going to call it quits here sleepysmileyanim.gif



Edited by MR-e - 11/14/13 at 12:18pm
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post #12 of 19
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Small blurb, acoustipak sound deadening is not worth it. It insulates the case and brings ambient temps to low 50's :S I'm thinking of tearing it down and removing all the sound deadening but what are your guys' thoughts on my airflow run. currently the front fan is the exhaust, and the top rad and back rad are intakes. after an hour of gaming, i feel the entire case is pretty hot to the touch and the front exhaust is blowing out hot air.

I have the top, bottom and rear of the case entirely lined up with the foam, i'll try reversing the fans and removing the rear sound deadening this weekend.
Edited by MR-e - 11/26/13 at 11:47am
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post #13 of 19
I think it would still warm up even if you'd remove the dampening material. Are your HDD or motherboard temperatures too hot to your liking? Since this is an aluminium case so it will feel warm no matter what if you've got 240+120 rads and their fans pumping warm air into the case.
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post #14 of 19
Subbed! I'm in love with micro-ATX builds!
post #15 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lagittaja View Post

I think it would still warm up even if you'd remove the dampening material. Are your HDD or motherboard temperatures too hot to your liking? Since this is an aluminium case so it will feel warm no matter what if you've got 240+120 rads and their fans pumping warm air into the case.

on my old build, the system would idle in the mid to high 20's, whereas now, it's idling in the low 50's and gets up to 80 when gaming. i think i'm going to have to change my case from positive to negative pressure and just exhaust both rads and make the front an intake. this task alone would require a dissambly of the loop and at that point, i'm thinking of just swapping over to acrylic as well...
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post #16 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by sexpot View Post

on my old build, the system would idle in the mid to high 20's, whereas now, it's idling in the low 50's and gets up to 80 when gaming. i think i'm going to have to change my case from positive to negative pressure and just exhaust both rads and make the front an intake. this task alone would require a dissambly of the loop and at that point, i'm thinking of just swapping over to acrylic as well...

Positive pressure will probably work best as it'll refresh the air quicker inside the case. In theory your case is pretty well sealed up so not much air is going to come in from the sides using negative pressure.
post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by sexpot View Post

on my old build, the system would idle in the mid to high 20's, whereas now, it's idling in the low 50's and gets up to 80 when gaming. i think i'm going to have to change my case from positive to negative pressure and just exhaust both rads and make the front an intake. this task alone would require a dissambly of the loop and at that point, i'm thinking of just swapping over to acrylic as well...

And that old build is completely different. Quite small volume inside. Front rad intaking and rear rad exhausting. Air goes in, air goes out. Things keep cool and everything is fine and dandy.
Now you have a bigger case and presumably you've got low speed fans so the top 240 rad fans intake and push the hot air in to the case which doesn't quite make it to the front fan so it takes a while for it to exhaust and things warm up inside and the rear rad intaking doesn't help either.
Either upgrade the front exhaust fan to something more powerful to make the air actually move. Or as I would do, reverse the top 240 rad fans to exhaust air and front fan as intake. I'd probably keep the rear as intake so the pressure would stay closer to neutral.

E: Disassembling the loop? Can't you just remove the fan screws on the top rad, remove the top panel and turn the fans around. Put top panel back and screws back and you're good to go?
Edited by lagittaja - 11/28/13 at 2:45pm
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post #18 of 19
Thread Starter 
I didn't have the proper screws at the time so it's held in as follows:

rad > short screw > fan > short screw > top panel

think of the short screws as being sandwhiched inbetween the rad/fan and fan/top panel.

all fans are gt-ap15's running at 1200 rpm for the rads and 1500 rpm for the front exhaust, going full throttle for the exhaust is too loud for me.
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post #19 of 19
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Apologies for bad lighting as I snapped this pic late last night with the phone. But here's where my PC-A05NB currently sits. Front fan is set to exhaust and all other fans as intake. I originally routed the fans as so to achieve positive pressure but even with the front fan maxed (all fans are GT AP15) it does not pull enough heat out of the case and causes overheating issues. So instead of tearing down the loop and changing some components, I removed the side panel for now making everything above a moot point :/

I'm currently deciding if I want to swap everything over to a Corsair 350D and add another 240mm rad or stay with this case and change the tube run along with pump location and reversing the fans.

Side note - the plastidip has peeled in some locations and sound deadening is useless imo. I went overboard and layered acoustipak the entire case and all it did was trap heat. No noticeable sound improvements.


Edited by MR-e - 1/13/14 at 1:59pm
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