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post #31 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captivate View Post

That's more like it. I read 10.30V at the splitter cable/channel cable, much better than the previous 9V. Now, the molex reading was 12V,and the fan controller input was actually 11.3V, so still a bit low? I guess a 1V drop doesn't seem too bad. I just wish I could actually get 12V on the controller though.
I did notice one of the two black pins on the power input connector was not connected? Does that matter, it's ground but there are 2 grounds... Also when I push it back in I don't think anything changes.

Btw thanks for your help it is much appreciated.
The second ground isn't exactly a requirement since it's a fan controller. The only reason for multiple grounds on the lines was for industry standards to ensure there was sufficient wire gauge to handle the max current expected to avoid heating up the wires and reduce line noise with many component hookups. All of the 0v (black) grounds internally lead to the same solder point.

11.3v sounds about right with the controller then. Always expect that much loss at the controller side - I experienced a similar issue with mine especially when running longer hookups.

Edited by Chozo4 - 11/4/13 at 5:42pm
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post #32 of 39
{how in the heck did I pull off a duplicate post?}
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post #33 of 39
Thread Starter 
Reading 12.00V from a molex now, thanks a bunch! I just put two 10W/10Ohm resistors in parallel and stuck em in a molex. Now I just have to reduce the fan to 5V and I'm done.
Unfortunately I'm still not at the RPM that I want. They have increased slightly though, so that's good. Pump is getting 11.7V now, much higher than before. RPMs have increased by about 50-100. If I fix that little power cable (so I have 2 grounds instead of 1), they increase to 1350-1400RPM, which is still much lower than their rated 1600+-80 RPM but oh well, I guess it will have to do.

Thanks guys, +rep to both of you!
post #34 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captivate View Post

Reading 12.00V from a molex now, thanks a bunch! I just put two 10W/10Ohm resistors in parallel and stuck em in a molex. Now I just have to reduce the fan to 5V and I'm done.
Unfortunately I'm still not at the RPM that I want. They have increased slightly though, so that's good. Pump is getting 11.7V now, much higher than before. RPMs have increased by about 50-100. If I fix that little power cable (so I have 2 grounds instead of 1), they increase to 1350-1400RPM, which is still much lower than their rated 1600+-80 RPM but oh well, I guess it will have to do.

Thanks guys, +rep to both of you!

Thanks for the update. Good to see it helped to add load on the 5V thumb.gif

The remaining loss can only be in cables and the fan controller. You could add some manual full speed override switch. I'm not sure it's worth the effort. but in my experience, there is a large difference in the amount of air moved by a fan going from e.g. 11V to 12V.
post #35 of 39
Thread Starter 
Not sure if your last sentence is correct. Do you mean there IS a large difference or there isn't?
What do you mean by manual full speed override switch?

Now that we're onto the subject, is there any way I can set up an Arduino board to turn the power switch on/off when the water temperature gets too high? Or even control the fan speeds based on water temperature? I'd buy an Aquaero fan controller but they are so expensive.
post #36 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captivate View Post

Not sure if your last sentence is correct. Do you mean there IS a large difference or there isn't?
What do you mean by manual full speed override switch?

Now that we're onto the subject, is there any way I can set up an Arduino board to turn the power switch on/off when the water temperature gets too high? Or even control the fan speeds based on water temperature? I'd buy an Aquaero fan controller but they are so expensive.
What they mean by manual override is basically a switch that lets you bypass the controller and just give the fan raw power from the molex.

As for the water temp if there is any possible way to get your water temp read from within your OS you can control the fan speeds. All you would need is an available PWM pin on a motherboard fan header connected to your fan controller (if the controller uses a PWM header connection to control fan controller speeds when automatic) and speedfan to handle the speed control.
.
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post #37 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chozo4 View Post

What they mean by manual override is basically a switch that lets you bypass the controller and just give the fan raw power from the molex.

As for the water temp if there is any possible way to get your water temp read from within your OS you can control the fan speeds. All you would need is an available PWM pin on a motherboard fan header connected to your fan controller (if the controller uses a PWM header connection to control fan controller speeds when automatic) and speedfan to handle the speed control.
.
Problem is that the controller is on the other side of the room near the window.
post #38 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Captivate View Post

Not sure if your last sentence is correct. Do you mean there IS a large difference or there isn't?
What do you mean by manual full speed override switch?

Now that we're onto the subject, is there any way I can set up an Arduino board to turn the power switch on/off when the water temperature gets too high? Or even control the fan speeds based on water temperature? I'd buy an Aquaero fan controller but they are so expensive.

Yeah, sorry if not clear. redface.gif I have experienced significant difference from 11V to full 12V, the last power and RPM does seem to make quite a difference with my fans. Not sure if that is the case with all fans, but you can try see if you feel a difference from what you get at max rpm now through the fan controller and connecting a fan directly to 12V then decide if it's worth the trouble.

It's not hard to control e.g. a relay from an Arduino, all you need is a transistor, a resistor and a diode. Plus something to measure the water temperature, e.g. a thermistor plus a couple of resistors.
post #39 of 39
Thread Starter 
That actually does sound hard, but I am kinda noob with that kind of stuff.
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