Originally Posted by Mech0z
Do you happen to have other boards where you can compare power draw of this board? Want tthis for my NAS/HTPC and hope the A88x chipset is low on power consumption
Sorry to only answer now...i have more builds done (using precisely this case model , same model of ODD, same model of HDD , same RAM DIMMS brand and model but E-350 APUs) but don't have nothing to measure power drain...
The only thing i can say is that this machine heats up way LESS than the E-350 (in Gigabyte MoBos with stock 60x60x10 APU fan).
The build is complete
I took a bunch of pics that i have to upload but might take some days to do so because i'm very busy...forgot to take some pics (camera ru out of enegry and forgot to take shot of me applying TIM (will simulate that pic) )...
Build is running using the shown in previous pics copper cooler with its 70x70x10 fan...cooler is actually thinner than official specs (12.5mm) witch increased a lot the space from its fan to ODD.
Besides the 70x70x10 cooler fan, there are two 40x40x10 fans connected in parallel to SYS_FAN (using only one the two yellow RPM sensors to feedback RPM)....but this MoBo , in case we are using 3pin fans in the 4pin sockets seems to control fan speed by itself...i say this because main fan startes at 2900 rpm and as build heats up , can reach 3500 rpm witch is max rpm for than fan.
The 70 mm fan noise is strangely very acceptable even at 3500 rpm (max rpm for this fan)
The two 40 mm, no matter rated for 5000 rpm +/-10% , start at 5900 rpm and increase rpm till 6500 rpm....i wonder if supplier sold me 6000 rpm fan version inside 5000 rpm fan cases ?!?
They are a bit more noisy in special at cold but its still basically a WOOSH sound and not a hight pitch noise...still, i'm thing to put them in series instead of parallel but i wonder if they can start up with only 6V...
Anyway, even in BIOS temps are very low and in the OS 34C
are normal at idle
In normal use it (playing music, navigating the net, ripping DVD) does not pass from 36.5C
Gonna install some games and see temperatures playing them...
BTW, i used Arctic MX-4 and applied in a 1/3th long line applied to center of APU in same direction of text engraved in APU .
Really outstanding temps !!!
That's why i'm evaluating possibility to put 40 mm fans in series to lower RPM or replace the two for 40x10 Noctua fans with the L.N.A.s or even a single 40 mm Noctua fan with LNA witch is mandatory if i replace stock DC/DC converter by a PicoPSU 160XT and a FSP 150W brick.
(Ambient temps are 18C here BTW).
Of course that let's not forget i downclocked and undervolted...
CPU 1600 MHz @ 1.35V
iGPU 475 MHz @ ...don't recall exactly...will update this post later
RAM: 8GB running at 1600 MHz with 1.6V
APM and Cool'N'Quiet DISABLED
will update here latter with more BIOS details....
The interesting thing is than in OS, even with APM and Cool'N'Quiet DISABLED CPU cores voltage can go down as low as 0.99 V with OS at idle !!!
That was a surprise to me (i'm not used to change voltages) and explain why i can't go bellow 1.35V with confidence...i got some failures to boot at vcore BIOS adjusted to 1.25 V ....even 1.3 V sometimes can go wrong.
BIOS voltage settings seem to be to calibrate the TOP LIMIT....the reason why in BIOS is reading the value we set in previous BIOS setting, is because with these APUs when in the BIOS it's like we are running Prime95 !
Stock 75W brick and converter can handle w/ ease this APU w/ these BIOS settings
I can be ripping DVD, surfing net and playing video all at same time w/o problems or glitches.
BUT like i was expecting, DON'T even dream to switch ON MoBo with stock DC/DC converter and brick in 1st run...you need a desktop ATX PSU for 1st run and to set BIOS and make experiments with with....
This BIOS settings were done outside case and when installed in case and powered up i had nasty surprise that it didn't boot or could even access BIOS...i had to disconnect converter , reset CMOS and connect ATX PSU connectors to MoBo inside case and set BIOS again and finally switch back again connectors to the DC/DC converter ones and since then everything fine.
I dunno why this happened...might be a contact corrupted CMOS but most natural thing is that, IIRC, at that time i was still trying downvolt to 1.25 V or even 1.2 V (read above about vcore voltage)
Of course that a PicoPSU 160XT and FSP 150W brick would avoid all this trouble of dismantle parcially case and connect ATX PSU but increases price and forces me to remove one of the 40mm fans but i might do that in the end because i have the feeling that when reflashing BIOS and/or replacing APU , all my BIOS settings will change anyway...
As for performance , Net, Videos opening docs , etc. all very snappy and smooth even using a slower OS (i'm comparing this build with W7 64bit vs e-350 with W8 64bit), in fact seems slightly faster and Windows Experience Index says so in all 4 main factors (CPU , RAM, GPU 2D, GPU 3D)....RAM is simply dramatic even only at 1600MHz and even comparing with a Kabini A6-5200 witch is not exactly a surprise (A10-5400K uses Dual Channel)..
Even with the iGPU at only 475MHz, it beats not only the E-350 with 1333MHz RAM but also Kabini A6-5200...
But that's WEI...now the final test will be me playing games.
Like they say, " The proof of the pudding is in the eating! "