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Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev. 3.0 VRM, and Northbridge Temps Solution - Page 2

post #11 of 59
Yeah I meant have both blowing in the same way next to each other, like _ _ not ||. So I should peel the tape off the enzotech? Arctic silver isn't a good idea since its electrically conductive correct?

PS I meant parallel as in they can both use one motherboard header instead of one each. I know that would lower the rpm due to current splitting but I doubt it takes too much airflow to get the hot air pushed into the path of one of my larger fans' airflow path.

I'm using an antec 900 with all the fan slots populated, and a 120mm pushing up from my cpu katana heatsink to the 28cm fan on top.
Edited by herericc - 11/12/13 at 12:57pm
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post #12 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by herericc View Post

Yeah I meant have both blowing in the same way next to each other, like _ _ not ||. So I should peel the tape off the enzotech? Arctic silver isn't a good idea since its electrically conductive correct?

PS I meant parallel as in they can both use one motherboard header instead of one each. I know that would lower the rpm due to current splitting but I doubt it takes too much airflow to get the hot air pushed into the path of one of my larger fans' airflow path.

I'm using an antec 900 with all the fan slots populated, and a 120mm pushing up from my cpu katana heatsink to the 28cm fan on top.
If you put them on a controller it wont cut the rpm so long as it can provide the necssary amperage. Running them straight off the mobo in parallel is probs a bad idea because of the current draw. That port is only rated for 12v max and may end up causing more issues than a five dollard pci fan controller is worth in the end.
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post #13 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by miklkit View Post

I had a UD3 V3 and spent time on it. I tried the Enzotech MST-88 and it is indeed a perfect fit and since it is solid copper it does have better heat transfer than the stock cooler, but it is about the same size and still needs a dedicated fan on it.

The best VRM cooler I found is the Thermalright HR-09U type 2. I installed it after the board was already warped from the heat and it still made a 5-6C difference.

I used no.4 nuts, bolts, and washers to hold them down. With the Thermalright I also used no.6 nylon washers to ensure no shorting out occurred. I also used nylock nuts to get exactly the torque I wanted with no fear of anything loosening over time. This all cost 1-2 bucks at the local hardware store.

The Thermalright is a hair longer than the stocker so the washers clamp it down, but it was very solid on my board. It is a tall heat pipe type that sticks up into the air flow of the rear exhaust fan.



Do you by chance have the thermalright cooler anymore?
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post #14 of 59
The motherboard is long gone, but I do indeed have both the Enzotech and Thermalright coolers sitting on my desk.
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post #15 of 59
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by miklkit View Post

The motherboard is long gone, but I do indeed have both the Enzotech and Thermalright coolers sitting on my desk.

If you're interested in selling I'd like to confer with you about possibly purchasing the both of them for two mobos I've got (The Thermalright for my UD3, and the Enzotech for my Biostar A870u3) If so, just message me so we don't clutter up the thread with irrelevancies.
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post #16 of 59
Hey man, just upgraded to a FX 8320 for xmas, and I've put the enzotech on the VRM's with TIM instead of the ****ty tape, as well as attaching it with nuts instead of the spring-clips.

I am still getting throttling on the voltages and with it clocks after about 8m of prime 95 at 1.5V and 4.6GHz.

The voltage drops to 1.020V from 1.512 and the clocks drop from 4.6 to ~1.4.

What could be causing this? I made sure all power settings in windows were set to 100% CPU, and in the bios I'm fairly certain that all power saving features have been disabled appropriately.

It's worth mentioning that the CPU itself isn't overheating at all, it hasn't gotten higher than 55* due to my new H220 cooler, and I even decided to zip tie 2 40mm fans to the heatsink. Might try with a larger fan, not sure how much air the 40mm's are actually moving, I think they might just be making noise and not actually moving much air around.

http://imgur.com/7dYthex
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post #17 of 59
You have my condolences.

It is just a hot running motherboard with weak VRM cooling. All you can do is slap fans all over the place, even behind the motherboard. You should go into the bios and switch the fan control from auto to manual and then setting up an aggressive profile.
Again, the throttling is caused by the VRMs overheating. With mine the case behind the VRMs would get too hot to touch. The VRms must have been glowing hot.

Your objective now is to keep it alive until you can buy another motherboard.
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post #18 of 59
The weird thing for me is that the VRM sink isn't even really getting that hot. I'm certain I got paste on each MOSFET and secured the sink properly though.

I'm wondering if my issues aren't linked to the piss-poor bios that comes with this motherboard. Maybe it throttles the VRMs at a stupidly low temperature?

In any case, I'm going to spend some more time tinkering with it today and see what I can eke out of it.
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post #19 of 59
Thread Starter 
Using the VRM method i outlined above, and a cooler master 240m I'm able to overclock my 1100t to 4.2 @ 1.5v after putting .5 volt boost, and extreme on the bios and it runs just fine. my northbridge stays warm, and somewhat "hot" to the touch, but I've not had any problems with this board since I posted my "fix."
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post #20 of 59
Your "fix" is just a huge wall of text, kinda hard to read through all of that.
Let me ask you something; did you replaced the NB HS?
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