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[Build Log] "Consummation" - Dual HTPC, water cooled audiophile 'stereo' build - Page 5

post #41 of 79
Wow this is looking great! thumb.gif subbed for sure
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post #42 of 79
Thread Starter 
Thank you, I'm trying to move a bit faster on getting it done (my husband is sick and tired of all the boxes of modding supplies that have taken over our game room and my son is whining that he hasn't been able to have his buddies over to play pool for /years/ biggrin.gif)


I went ahead and ordered a new break press so I can finish up the holder for the Halo, and it looks like they shipped out my ribbon cable so I'm hoping to have the lighting tray done before the weekend. \o/
post #43 of 79
This thread needs more attention, your work is great!
post #44 of 79
Thread Starter 
Thank you. I often feel like my build has been three steps forward, two steps back because I mess something up and have to start over, but I’m definitely learning some tips and tricks for various things. Hopefully they’ll help someone else with their build smile.gif



The bench top break arrived yesterday!



I’m actually really impressed with this break, a lot of the reviews were complaining that it was junk, but I think they were using too high a gauge sheet for this little thing. Either way $60 well spent for my needs. I clamped the break down to my desk and put c-clamps over the part and the bar (I need smaller c-clamps, my husband uses these two to compress the break whatsit when he’s changing break pads so they’re huge.) This should give you an idea how it works:





On the “tabs” that need to fold inside the box I was able to fit it on the edges of the break so that’s great:



In fact the break worked so well with this this brushed aluminum that I didn’t even need to put in any screws to hold the “box” together, just folded over a tab in the one “standing” corner and it held together great:



Next was positioning the Halo card, I don’t want the Halo touching the tray so I put in acrylic stand-offs that are tall enough to ensure the RCA cables to the receiver cleared the fold on the backside easily and such. Drilled holes and installed those, then positioned the PCI slot so that the bottom tabs on the cards rest against the inside of the tray's tab so I can align the cards with the slot without having to pull out my bottom case. (I may replace these stand-offs for a little shorter version so I can mount the tray's top against the bottom of the shelf in my rack; the Halo is pretty heavy and the aluminum is a bit thin so it could use another point of contact.)



For the daughter board there wasn’t really anywhere to put stand-offs without rubbing on the traces on the PCB, but I knew that the pci slot covers were removable so I used those holes – I flipped the screw to the other side of the main board and put in taller (I think they’re 10mm) stand-offs between the two cards, then on the daughter board I used longer screws I had in my mod boxes and screwed the daughter board into the mainboard stand-offs. That was a hair short and the solder points on the back of the daughter board were touching the mainboards capacitors so I added in some thicker (2mm I think) silicone HD de-coupler washer’s I had in my mod boxes:



The Halo “sandwich” fits perfectly in the tray holder and I have full access to the back ports:



The final step was putting in the EMI shielding tape to hopefully clear up the last bit of static the Halo is picking up off my monster PSU. (I’ll put a grounding wire on one of the screws into my stand and tie that off on the bottom chassis.) The conductive electrical adhesive pads are a bit tricky to work with because they’re double sided, but after a bunch of folding, fiddling, and cutting to make sure all the sheets contact each other I got it done:



All done! Not too shabby for the first metal working project I’ve done since High School ~cough~ over 20 years ago. You can also see the ferrite beads I’ve got on the RCA Cables for EMI as well, hopefully this will clear everything up. I’ll mount the tray into my stand next time I pull out the bottom case – should be shortly after I get the MB lighting tray finished up, but the ribbon cable I need hasn’t gotten here yet:





In other news, I couldn’t take waiting to see it anymore so I broke down and put together the parts I have for my new Monsoon MMRS. I’ll actually have two couplers (the black part between the two pieces of frosted acrylic tubes) and another pump cover on the left side (waiting on fabrication for those so it could be a while heh) It looks great - sooo happy I pulled the trigger and replaced the FrozenQ reservoir:





Here's a sneak peek of the next major project I'm working on for my build wink.gif


Edited by Mystriss - 2/14/16 at 11:12am
post #45 of 79
Wow that looks phenomenal! The black tape actually made it turn out really nice once you had the hardware mounted inside. The box was pretty dang good as well! I don't quite follow how it worked through the pictures but it worked. What is the brake you used and what gauge aluminum?
post #46 of 79
Thread Starter 
The brake is http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DKVIF?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02

mmm yea my pics could have been better on that, thanks for letting me know. The break comes in 4 pieces (which I love for storage) - the main body (which is the part that articulates), the pressure bar, and two screw in handles:



The pressure bar is an unequal trapezoid, one side is more of an angle for doing thicker pieces (which if I recall HS right you oft have to over bend to get a good 90) and the straighter angle is closer to a 90 (for thinner work that doesn't need an over-bend).



The pressure bar goes on top of your sheet so that the wider part is on the bottom (and whichever angle you need is facing the handles), then you c-clamp the pressure bar down (it is recommended to locate the clamps directly over the sheet):



Then you pull the two handles up and toward you to make your bend:



You can makes obtuse (less than 90 degree) angles as well, which I plan on utilizing if I have to re-make the top chassis' front panel/mount for the new MMRS - the old panel has a cutout on the far end for the hoses from the FrozenQ, but the MMRS hoses are not in the same place. Plus the MMRS is a little bit shorter than the FrozenQ so I'm pretty sure the hole would show.



The aluminum sheet I used is 1mm (0.030 inches) - I'd bought this stuff to make super thin side panels for the top case and the scrap that'll be left over was just about the perfect size for the Halo tray so I decided to use it rather than "skate" my way down the hill to the shop for the 3mm sheet I "should" have used. (I'm in Alaska and El Nino decided to give us constant freezing rain instead of snow this year so it's been super icy everywhere. We've actually used up all our kitty litter, sand, gravel, AND ice melt just trying to keep the front driveway and walkway from killing our poor mailman - cause he's awesome and brings all my boxes to my front porch instead of making me drive to the post office all the time <3 I wish I could tip him, but I can't even give him a coffee gift card because of stupid Federal regulations frown.gif I give him cookies and stuff, just have to keep the "value" of it under $20 per quarter heh Sorry rambling...


And yea the eCap looks great on the inside for sure, it's almost a shame I'll never see it once I get the tray installed heh
post #47 of 79
Thread Starter 
Quick update on the MB lighting tray. I've cut in the slots for the Halo's riser cables. Because the slot needs to be as close to the LED groove as possible and because of the other slots that were cut in for the USB cables I didn't want to cut openings wide enough for the ribbon cable's IDC connector to fit through. Instead I've cut a thin slot for the ribbon cables where I want those to sit, then a slot big enough for the IDC connectors behind the other cable slots and a cut out connecting the two. Then I was able to bend the ribbon cable around the corners and into the front slot so it sits where I wanted it to:



I may or may not use that same slot for the USB cables that go under the ribbon cable to hold everything in place.

I just need to cut in the GPU cables and I'll be ready to put the coverings on and finish up the MB lighting tray smile.gif
Edited by Mystriss - 2/20/16 at 5:51pm
post #48 of 79
Thread Starter 
Quick update on the 6&8pin PCIe cable. For the visible part of the GPU cable I really wanted the cable to lay flat against the back-plate and curl under the GPU/MB. However, the GPU isn't long/wide enough for the 14 wires to lay flat and clear the edge of the MB. I had no choice but to overlap the cables at the bottom in order to keep the straight line following the GPUs back-plate. I didn't really want to just stack the 8pin and 6pin at the connectors so I compromised with a flat "column/row" at the top and stacking the cables at the bottom like so:



Due to the compressive nature of heat shrink, I knew I was going to have to put in a "brace" to hold the wire's shape. I just cut out a chunk of thin aluminum in the shape I wanted. I cannot stress enough that if you're going to do this you absolutely must, must, must sand the heck out of every single edge and corner or it'll tear your heat shrink. Sand the edges/corners until it's smooth, then do it a couple more times, until you can't even feel the corners or edges with your fingertips (I use my cheek honestly because my fingertips have become desensitized by too many years of typing.) Once I got the brace smooth I positioned it and taped it to my wires, de-pinned the connectors on the other end, and got the heat shrink over it.



I needed the "bottom" of the cable to be flat in order to fit through the MB tray slot,,but I didn't want to use a brace because of the bends and needed flexibility (for GPU removal and such) so I had decided not to heat shrink the bottom half of the cable and used a flat clamp to keep the bottom wires flat while shrinking. I shrunk the heat shrink from the top down, making sure to keep evenly heating all four "sides/edges" concurrently so it shrunk down real nice for me.



Once the shrinking was done I let it sit a good 5-10 minutes to cool down and let the curves "set" before I re-pinned the connectors (using a multi-meter to make sure I got all the pins in the right spots.) I'm happy with it, but I'll be painting whole thing as the color of the heat shrink isn't really a "true" black, unfortunately it's all I could find in the odd size and shrink ratio I required:




Also, a quick note on de/re-pinning, make sure you pull the tabs back up on your pins, it makes a huge difference. (Mostly I just wanted an excuse to play with my new microscope heh) The pin on the right there was just de-pinned, on the left is with the tabs pulled back out. Those tabs have to catch on a small edge of the connector or the pin will come right out on you, just be gentle pulling out the tabs or you'll snap them off smile.gif

post #49 of 79
The Halo Claro XT is, IMO, the best sound card out there. The PCI interface is a bummer but the component quality and sound quality is great. Are you using the stock op amps?
    
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Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor Asus MAXIMUS VII FORMULA ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Classified ACX 2.0+... EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel 
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Klevv Genuine 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Har... Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM I... Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor Asus MAXIMUS VII FORMULA ATX LGA1150 Motherboard  EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti 6GB Classified ACX 2.0+... EK-FC780 GTX Classy - Acetal+Nickel 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Klevv Genuine 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM... Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Har... Western Digital BLACK SERIES 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM I... Samsung 850 EVO 500GB 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 950 Pro Swiftech H240-X CPU Liquid Cooling Kit HardwareLabs Black Ice Nemesis GTS X-Flow 280mm Noctua NF-A14 industrialPPC-2000 PWM 107.4 CFM ... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
CooLaboratory Liquid Ultra Windows 10 Professional 64-bit Pioneer Kuro PDP-5020FD 50-Inch Class (49.85'' ... Logitech Illuminated Living-Room Keyboard K830 
PowerCaseMouseOther
EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX ... Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Tempered Glass Editio... Logitech G400 Professional Gaming Mouse MX518 Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2 US 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Fanatec ClubSport Steering Wheel BMW M3 GT2 US Fanatec ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula US Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ US Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V2 US 
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post #50 of 79
Woah...totally hats off!! There are tons of detail info for any prospective modders.

Subbed!

Looking forward to more!

Knowledge is an unquenchable thirst.
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