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[Build Log] The Hawaiian Heat Wave - Page 23

post #221 of 418
Thread Starter 
Modding Case to Accept an External Radiator:

Thoughts;

Hawaii gets hot and two of them are like erupting volcanoes in a water loop. Adding an extra 120mm of rad space was ok, but why not a full 360mm of rad space instead?

Why have the 240mm rad sitting idle when it can be used to further promote my endeavour for a cooler water loop?

Tools;

Ruler, marker, drill, a 7/8 drill bit (a titanium step, arbored hole saw or a spade drill bit will do), vacuum, an old RCA audio/video cable and an exacto knife.

Methodology;

  1. One should do the work in an empty case, as the metal shavings will fly everywhere and you’ll take the risk of shorting out your equipment when powered on for the first time.
  2. Study your case and best tube routing options. (I had to be off kilter a bit since I would have drilled right into the spine that’s holding the filter.)
  3. Measure and re-measure where your drill bit will make first contact and mark the spots with a marker.
  4. Remove the filter. (I assumed that the drill bit would just as easily punch a hole in the foam filter, but instead it chewed it up. I lost 40% of the filter. I've already contacted Fractal Design in order to purchase a new filter.)
  5. If you chose your drill bit correctly you should have clean edges and uniform circles. (I just used what I had on hand which forced me to whip out needle nose pliers and a file to clean the edges a bit.)
  6. Vacuum the metal shavings out of the case. It is probably a good idea to give it a wipe as well to eliminate any unseen metal shavings.
  7. Using the exacto knife, slice the RCA cable in a straight line and use the rubber to form a clean edge around the new perforations. (I did not have to use any glue.) Alternately, you can buy C-Strips - $1.50 per foot from FrozenCPU.

Notice that on the bottom of the external rad I’ve mounted 2 of the 6 Corsair SP120s that I’ve recently purchased, and up top I scavenged the rad fans off the H50 and H60 for now.

See pics below for reference.





 
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post #222 of 418
Hahaha lol good work thumb.gif

an inspiration to us all biggrin.gif
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post #223 of 418
Thread Starter 
Thanks Cyro999!smile.gif

I just made a few more purchases.kookoo.gif Yes, I'm loco!

Shroud;

I received some constructive criticism on the OCN Water Cooling Club in relation to my last mod. Specifically, suggestion was that I add a rad bracket to permit better cooling from the 240mm rad fans.

So in the spirit of moar performance, I just purchased The Feser Company Acrylic 120MM Fan Radiator Shroud from DazMode for $12.34 and two Dual Red 5mm LEDs for the TFC Shroud from DazMode for $9.48.

Sleeving;

Also, I've felt that the 24 pin mobo power cable was severely lacking. Although it is sleeved, one single sleeve for the unit, the sleeve does not reach the power connector and the wires are exposed at that junction.

I will not bother with the GPUs and the other 6/8 pin mobo power cables. I figured the GPU sleeves are good and cover the length of the cables and the 6/8 pin mobo power cable is invisible behind the top rad.

So in the spirit of moar pezazz, I purchased LutroO Customs Teleios 4mm Red 100 Foot Sleeving from FrozenCPU for $27.00, 3:1 Darkside Adhesive 4.8mm 3/16" Heatshrink Jet Black 6 Foot Tubing from DazMode for $3.30 and the Original Molex ATX Pins Extraction Tool from DazMode for $19.94.

I intend to do the sleeving using the shrinkless method.
Edited by Gunderman456 - 3/18/14 at 5:42pm
 
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post #224 of 418
Thread Starter 
Routing External Fan Cables:

So now I have all these fans attached to the external radiator and the cables needed routing. Priority was to keep neat/clean lines.

Tools;

Marker and needle nose pliers.

Methodology;

  1. When mounting the fans on the external radiator, make sure the wires are all on one side.
  2. Orient the wires in a way that they will still reach inside the case and behind the mobo.
  3. Mark the area you want to penetrate.
  4. Using the needle nose pliers, grab one of the grill perforations and twist.
  5. One at a time that bit of metal should snap off without effort.

In my case, the wires will enter the newly created hole and into the cable portal on top of the mobo.

Refer to pic below.

 
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post #225 of 418
Thread Starter 
Wow, even though I took full responsibility for my drill chewing up the top filter on the Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 and offered to buy a new one, Fractal Design just offered to send me a replacement for free.

Top company indeed.

That settles it for me, I was going to consider CaseLabs for my next build but between their excellent customer support and service on replacement parts for my USB cable and case filter, I will chose them again and again!!!
 
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post #226 of 418
Thread Starter 
It was difficult to find 4.7mm 3:1 adhesive free heatshrink.

DazMode only had them in adhesive form and FrozenCPU only had 4mm or 5mm 2:1 heatshrink. Anything to do with 3:1 heatshrink was either smaller then 4mm or 6mm+. I also looked at Aquatuning and Performance-PCs but the shipping would have been murder.

Why did I search high and low for new heatshrink? Well the Cable Sleeving Gallery and Discussion thread warned that shrinkless sleeving would be more difficult if the heatshrink incorporated an adhesive substance.

Taking heed, last night I purchased 3/16th Inch (4.7mm) 3:1 Ratio Heatshrink 4ft for $4.50, the LC Cable Comb Codename: Stealth - 24Pin Cable Clamp Stealth Black (x2) for $4.20 and the LC Flush Cutter for $10 from LutroO Customs Sleeving and Computer Solutions. I though to myself, why not buy from the source?

I've also purchased a package containing 5 Bic lighters (x2 size) for $4.99 from Target.

I'm still waiting on that new Fractal Design USB 3.0 cable. It shipped from Texas last week.
 
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RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
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Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300w 80+ Gold Fully Modular  Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Microsoft Sidewinder X5 
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Allsop Redmond Mouse Pad Cambridge Soundworks 5.1 
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Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.6GHz ASRock Z77E-ITX mITX  Sapphire HD 7990 @ 1090MHz/1600MHz G.SKILL Ripjaws 2X4GB DDR3-1600 @ 1866MHz 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
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post #227 of 418
Thread Starter 
Installing New USB 3.0 Case Cable:

I received the USB 3.0 cable today from Fractal Design in Texas!

Methodology:

The broken cable is on the left. Hard to see but one pin remained lodged in the severed blue plug.



1. Unscrew the USB 3.0 ports from the control panel.

2. Note that you will also need to unscrew the control panel from the case in order to be able to remove the USB 3.0 ports.



The procedure took 2 minutes.
 
BitoHeaven
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BitoHeaven
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Liquid Single Loop Triple Radiators Win 7 SP1 Professional x64bit  Nixeus EDG 27" IPS 1440p 144Hz 4ms FreeSync (30... Samsung SynchMaster 24" TN 1200p 60Hz 5ms TFT-L... 
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Crucial SSD 128GB mSATA SATA III 6GB  Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 1TB SATA II 32MB 7200RPM LG DVD R/W SATA with LightScribe Corsair Cooling Hydro Series H100 
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post #228 of 418
Thread Starter 
Adding a Radiator Fan Shroud:

Due to popular demand and constructive criticism from the OCN Water Cooling Club, I incorporated a Radiator Fan Shroud, instead of just radiator brackets. This was mainly accomplished to create some distance between the top fan on the 240mm radiator in order to increase the cool air flow pushing through the top of the radiator. The shroud concept would also allow to increase the exhaust capability of the bottom fan for improved ejection of the hot air from the case.

Methodology;

The Feser Admiral shroud comes with M3 and M4 long and super long screws, nuts and washers and is LED light ready.


The Led Module comes with two 5mm bulbs, so perfect for the shroud above.


Best way to install this contraption, instead of trying to juggle each peace is to turn the case on its face.


Here is where that newly incorporated cable route comes in handy. Notice where the red LEDs are situated in the shroud.


Looks better from this angle. Will tidy-up on those cables at the end of the build.


Also make sure to incorporate a fan filter on the top exhaust fan.




 
BitoHeaven
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G.Skill Trident X 2X8GB DDR3 2400MHz Samsung 840 PRO 256GB  Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 3TB SATA III 6Gb/s 64... Pioneer Blu-ray Burner 
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Liquid Single Loop Triple Radiators Win 7 SP1 Professional x64bit  Nixeus EDG 27" IPS 1440p 144Hz 4ms FreeSync (30... Samsung SynchMaster 24" TN 1200p 60Hz 5ms TFT-L... 
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Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300w 80+ Gold Fully Modular  Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Microsoft Sidewinder X5 
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Allsop Redmond Mouse Pad Cambridge Soundworks 5.1 
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Intel Core i5-3570K @ 4.6GHz ASRock Z77E-ITX mITX  Sapphire HD 7990 @ 1090MHz/1600MHz G.SKILL Ripjaws 2X4GB DDR3-1600 @ 1866MHz 
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BitoHeaven
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RAMHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
G.Skill Trident X 2X8GB DDR3 2400MHz Samsung 840 PRO 256GB  Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 3TB SATA III 6Gb/s 64... Pioneer Blu-ray Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Liquid Single Loop Triple Radiators Win 7 SP1 Professional x64bit  Nixeus EDG 27" IPS 1440p 144Hz 4ms FreeSync (30... Samsung SynchMaster 24" TN 1200p 60Hz 5ms TFT-L... 
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Allsop Redmond Mouse Pad Cambridge Soundworks 5.1 
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post #229 of 418
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunderman456 View Post

Adding a Radiator Fan Shroud:

Due to popular demand and constructive criticism from the OCN Water Cooling Club, I incorporated a Radiator Fan Shroud, instead of just radiator brackets. This was mainly accomplished to create some distance between the top fan on the 240mm radiator in order to increase the cool air flow pushing through the top of the radiator. The shroud concept would also allow to increase the exhaust capability of the bottom fan for improved ejection of the hot air from the case.

Methodology;

The Feser Admiral shroud comes with M3 and M4 long and super long screws, nuts and washers and is LED light ready.


The Led Module comes with two 5mm bulbs, so perfect for the shroud above.

  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Best way to install this contraption, instead of trying to juggle each peace is to turn the case on its face.


Here is where that newly incorporated cable route comes in handy. Notice where the red LEDs are situated in the shroud.


Looks better from this angle. Will tidy-up on those cables at the end of the build.


Also make sure to incorporate a fan filter on the top exhaust fan.





Looking good, how much longer until you're back up and running?

 

Before you put everything back together you should hit that shroud with some VHT Niteshades to give it a black tint so it doesn't stick out so much.

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Vega has Ryzen
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post #230 of 418
Thread Starter 
Well, it probably would have been done this weekend, mind you I decided to order some grommets for the holes I borrowed into the case and that will come next week. I wouldn't have been able to finish the tubing until I had installed the grommets.

However, all that is really irrelevant though since I'm flying to Dominican Republic on vacation as well. I will be able to finish after I come back in a week or so.

I'll be indulging in my second favorite hobby; smoking my Cuban cigars in hot weather to boot as winter won't let up here!
 
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BitoHeaven
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G.Skill Trident X 2X8GB DDR3 2400MHz Samsung 840 PRO 256GB  Seagate Barracuda 7200.14 3TB SATA III 6Gb/s 64... Pioneer Blu-ray Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Liquid Single Loop Triple Radiators Win 7 SP1 Professional x64bit  Nixeus EDG 27" IPS 1440p 144Hz 4ms FreeSync (30... Samsung SynchMaster 24" TN 1200p 60Hz 5ms TFT-L... 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNOVA G2 1300w 80+ Gold Fully Modular  Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Microsoft Sidewinder X5 
Mouse PadAudio
Allsop Redmond Mouse Pad Cambridge Soundworks 5.1 
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