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[Build Log] Train -> Mercury S3

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Hi, first time doing a build log, might be a bit underwhelming compared to the awesome stuff on here but I'll give it a go. My current system is the Lian Li train, I'll put the specs below, I never really finished creating what I wanted to but I did get it running and has been amazing performance wise and silent for the passed year, however completely impractical.

Existing/Old System:
  • Case: Lian Li CK101
  • Parts: i5 2500k, Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe, 16GB Ares 1866mhz, GTX 670, Samsung 256GB Pro, Silverstone SFX 450w
  • Res: Bitspower Tank Z-Multi 40
  • Pump: D5 Vario, Bitspower acetal top
  • GPU Block: Heatkiller
  • CPU Block: Heatkiller
  • Tubing & Fittings: Primochill Adv Black, Bitspower Matte Black Compression 3/8 5/8
  • Radiator: Black Ice SR1 420mm
  • Fans: 3x Thermalright TY-147
  • Sleeving: Bitspower Black

New System:

  • Case: Caselabs Mercury S3 Black - have
  • Parts: i5 2500k, Asus P8Z77-I Deluxe, 16GB Ares 1866mhz, GTX 670, Samsung 256GB Pro, Seasonic XP-660W - have
  • Fans: 2x Thermalright TY-147 - have
  • Sleeving: MDPC Black + MDPC Violet - in transit
  • GPU Block: EK-FC670 GTX Clear/Nickel - have
  • CPU Block: Bitspower AIZ77ITXD Clear/Nickel - have
  • RAM Block: EK CSQ Nickel/Clear - have
  • Res: EK-D5 X-RES 140 CSQ - have
  • Coolant: Mayhems Pastel Raspberry Purple - have
  • Tubing: Primochill Rigid Clear - have
  • Pump: D5 Vario - have
  • Radiators: Black Ice SR1 280mm + Black Ice SR1 140mm - have
  • 12x Primochill Rigid Revolver Black - in transit
  • 3x Bitspower Matte Black Mini Dual Extender - in transit
  • 1x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Mini Valve - in transit
  • 2x Bitspower T-Block Matte Black - in transit
  • 1x Bitspower Matte Black Case Top Water Fill Set - in transit

Current Status:
Old system disassembled. Got the S3 all put together. Check the posts for details how I am going preparing the parts for the build.

To do:
  • Rads - flush radiators 280, 140.
  • Fans - wait for paint to dry, solder on longer wires, sleeve wires.
  • Switches - solder on wires, sleeve wires.
  • PSU - make new 24-pin, 2x 6-pin, 8-pin and combo molex/sata, sleeve wires.
  • Res/pump - changing the tube to a longer one, might need a inner tube too, clean pump exterior.
  • Fill/drain - have to create a hole in top of case for fill, drain should be just the valve.
  • Blocks - install RAM and CPU blocks.
  • Tubing - bend the rigid tubing
  • Res mount - mounting it on top of the 140 rad, will use aluminum or acrylic.
  • MB cover - acrylic cover to hide the blue bits.
  • Front window - replacing all the flex bays with a clear acrylic window.

Thanks to:
The Kool Room
Singularity Computers
Edited by Kom-au - 12/2/13 at 1:20am
post #2 of 14
Thread Starter 
I don't have a very good camera but I'll take some better photo's of the new stuff.

I have a lot of 3/8 5/8 fittings but can't find any clear tubing in Aus for it, I don't know whether to just get some from the US or just get all new fittings. Maybe black bitspower or EK adapters and purple primochill ghost or monsoon fittings? Then I can buy readily available 1/2 3/4 tubing, downside being all my other fittings will be useless.

Hopefully have the rest of the stuff tomorrow or Friday and can post some photo's of the actual build.

Here's some picture of my old system that is being dismantled for this, took the lid off to look inside, but the temperatures were fine with it on.

post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 
Well I finally got my CL shipment. Was very quickly manufactured and arrived in Australia in something like 5 days including a weekend. However soon as it got here, trying to deal with FedEx was a nightmare, their staff were nice but clueless and full of wrong information, the only only guy that wasn't nice at least was clear on the situation, they didn't know where my parcel was, what they could offer to do or when I could expect to have an answer.

Oh well, got it now. Still waiting on some parts before I can assemble much of the internals. The case assembly was very simple, could be done in 10 minutes if you wanted.

post #4 of 14
Thread Starter 
Painfully deconstructed my existing system, I assembled it in such a way that it was impossible to disassemble it by doing the opposite, bare in mind this was my first attempt at water cooling. Surprised at how clean the water was, compared to a friends system built at the same time, although there seems to be a build up inside the tubes, I'll take some photo's of it and the waterblocks (not sure I'll use either anyway) and maybe someone here can let me know if they are still usable.

Edited by Kom-au - 11/19/13 at 1:46am
post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 
Received some more gear, main piece being the GTX 670 block. It was second hand so I had a bit of work to do, forgot to take a before picture but there was a lot of tarnish in on the nickel that touches the clear cover. There was also a fair bit of purple stains, I think the previous owner maybe used purple coolant. I used some vinegar to clean off nearly all the problems, you can still see some purple between the channels in the photo, I managed to get most of it out though eventually.

Took a photo of the old tubing from the train, there is some sort of layer built up inside it. I'll only be re-using the pump and maybe the pump top, so I don't think I have anything to worry about. I'll take some more photo's in a few hours or tomorrow of the build itself, been playing around to see what res I want to use, but haven't decided yet.

post #6 of 14
Thread Starter 
Again sorry about the photo quality, all I have is a cheap little camera and poor lighting at night time.

Removed the Heatkiller waterblock from the GTX 670. Looks like I put thermal pads on the spots that didn't have chips on them lol, can't have done much harm though the temperatures were insane. I think I'll be downgrading performance for the looks of the EK block.

This stuff seems to do the job really well but I'm scared I'm going to end up impotent or something just by breathing it.

Cleaned up pretty good. The Heatkiller block seems to make a closer contact to the card, when I put the EK block on using the Heatkiller thermal pads there was no contact. I didn't get any thermal pads with the EK block because it was second hand but luckily I got a thicker strip of thermal pad with the backplate I purchased new, enough for the chips on the front and back of the card. Had a tube of my favourite thermal compound too, Thermalright CF3, did the job well enough last time.

post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Never sprayed anything before in my life, but had a go. Blades are from a Thermalright TY-140 was just a test, it's pretty grubby because I left it outside under a tree afterwards but I won't be using the fan so I'm not bothered. Going to do the proper fans for this build (TY-147) on Wednesday when the weather is good.

From my phone, some old Sony one.

From girlfriend's iPhone 5, colour seems off.
post #8 of 14
Thread Starter 
Been some delays as I sort out the remaining parts. If anyone's been following so far I've been undecided on what res and fittings to use. I did buy an aquatube especially for this but then I remembered I had an EK D5 top res, which is what I'm going to use, just need a bigger tube for it. As for fittings I really liked the Primochill Rigid Revolver Purple, but I don't think it will go well with the theme having purple fittings and coolant, so I've ordered the black ones. Accidentally bought mdpc purple when I should have got the violet, whoops, so waiting for that too.

I'll update the first post with some more details on whats going to be in the build other than what I've listed so far, and some details of what work needs to be done.

Time to void my warranty, actually regret this to some degree. I know watercooling these won't really do anything other than look good, but I do like trying new things.

Tools for the job. Knife for wedging the heatsink off, also pliers for pulling it off.

First stick was a nightmare, one side was quite tough but the other side was terrible, a few of the pads did not want to budge, pretty much cut them using the knife, can see the damage to the stock heat sink. Second stick was easy, bit of heat then levered both sides off with the knife.

Ran Memtest for a while, to make sure I didn't break anything.

Painting 2x TY-147 for the 280 rad on the top of the case. Not sure what fan I will use for the 140 rad on the bottom, but the blades might not be visible anyway depending which side I put it on. Also painted some 140 to 120 clips because the fans have 120 mounts, not sure how they will turn out.

I didn't do a very good job, but I think in the end it won't matter, should look good from any distance over 20cm.

post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
Motherboard waterblock arrived, the instruction manual looked very daunting. Wish the thermal pads were pre-cut for the chips on the motherboard.

This is the motherboard without the old waterblock.

Cleaned it up a bit and took off the heatsinks.

There was some residue left by the adhesive from the chipset heatsink. The Indigo Extreme cleaner I've been using is awesome at removing sticker residue as well as thermal paste however I'm not sure it is safe to use on PCB. It won't cause any issues being there so I'll leave it alone.

After painfully putting all the little thermal pads on, and a bit of paste, was finally able to put the new waterblock on.

post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
Got my order from FrozenCPU, took 5 working days from placing to the order to arriving at my doorstep in Australia using USPS, not too bad. The fittings look pretty cool, smaller and lighter than I thought they would be. The larger switch has a purple light, the reset is just solid black.

Decided to lengthen the fan cables rather than using an extender. Will make it easy to hide once I get up to that.

Just used some wick to get most of the old solder off.

Cleaned it up with some alcohol.

Looks good, cable is now double the length and seems like everything is working okay. Won't be able to test the PWM until the system is running though.

All sleeved with mdpc black.

Had to make the hole on the pump a little bigger to fit the sleeving through the hole. Actually had to enlarge it again by about 50% from these photo's as it still didn't fit. I did shorten the wires a great deal too, maybe too much but we'll find out later.

Ran out of sunlight so not a very good photo but happy with the final result. I did have a bit of a plan for the layout but that has gone out the window because turns out the res won't fit in the case between 2 fans and 2 radiators. I think I can move things around to make it fit, otherwise I'll have to go back to using the smaller X3 res tube. Should have some idea what the layout will be tomorrow, then I can post some more helpful pictures of what the build will look like in the end.

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