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Repairing dead power supply - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by shilka View Post

Was about to say the same but you already did

If you use a cable from another PSU best thing that will happen is nothing it wont work

Worst thing is everything goes up in smoke

Actually, the best thing that will happen is that it will work.

Worst thing would probably be it starts a fire.... kills you, burns down your house, and kills your family.

So like I said.... he has been warned!
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post #12 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by DuckieHo View Post

Because modular plugs and their pinouts are not standardized. I personally have melted a DVD power connector when I used the wrong modular cable even though everything fitted. You can use them but you MUST test and confirm the wiring is identical. You have been warned!

The pinouts of the actual plugs are standardized via ATX PSU Form Factor.
Fixing a PSU is not something a layperson can do.

You need the knowledge of an electrical engineer and the tools to even identify what was affected. For example, how many people do you know own an oscilloscope? tongue.gif

Although it could be something as simple as a blown capacitor in a visible part of the psu.. If that's the case then its easily replaceable. I know two people who own an oscilloscope.
post #13 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow19935 View Post

Although it could be something as simple as a blown capacitor in a visible part of the psu.. If that's the case then its easily replaceable. I know two people who own an oscilloscope.

Note that I had said "what was affected". A blown capacitor maybe the obvious damage... but what else was affected? Most ICs don't do well when a bunch of current comes rushing through.

You can buy a replacement cap for a few dollars. Then you have to check the output of the entire PSU. If it anything is off (which probably will be the case), you have to open it up again and start probing. It's too much work and not worth the effort to most.
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post #14 of 16
The old XFX units with the green fans where not all that great

Cant even recall what Seasoinc platform they based it on?
Edited by shilka - 11/19/13 at 9:48am
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post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
So, I have a pretty paperweight/source for lots of colored 16awg wire. Guess I'll put this out in the black widow storage for later dismantling. LOL

Thanks guys, I really didn't know about the pin-out differences, and after reading all this, even if I DID find out what was wrong...it's not worth the rest of my components/dwelling/family members wink.gif
post #16 of 16
First of all, never operate any power supply with its cover removed because there's exposed, potentially lethal high voltage everywhere in there, even on components you'd think would have no voltage on them, like some of the big heatsinks. We're talking about 340 volts, not just the 120VAC coming out of the wall socket.

PC power supplies almost always fail because of a shorted diode or transistor (can test with an ohm meter), a bad capacitor (usually bloated or leaking), or bad solder joint, meaning a broken PSU is often worth fixing if you can do it yourself, especially if you can get the parts free from another junked PSU. Replacements for those components don't need to have the same part number but just match in general type (i.e., a MOSFET transistor needs to be replaced with a MOSFET transistor, not a bipolar transistor, a Schottky diode needs another Schottky diode, etc.) and roughly match parameters like gate capacitance and gate turn-on voltage and meet or exceed parameters for maximum voltage, amps, and power. BadCaps.net has a forum dedicated to power supplies. Parts can be ordered from BDent.com, Mouser.com, or Digikey.com, and for small orders Digikey can be cheapest because they charge the least for shipping small packages.

If the fuse is blown, bet on a failure in the high voltage section -- inverter transistor or power factor correction transistor. Otherwise suspect one of the diodes or transistors on the other big heatsink. Removing any of these parts usually requires unsoldering the heatsink and all the components attached to it -- PC PSUs are normally too cramped to allow removing just a single component. Those parts are typically electrically insulated from the heatsink with a silicone rubber pad and maybe a nylon shoulder washer. Also the leads for the parts may have tiny ferrite beads around them, and it's important to retain those beads to prevent potentially destructive oscillations.
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