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post #10391 of 14918
Quote:
Originally Posted by reev3r View Post

I figured it was the stepping, I just wasn't certain, better to be sure, also, does a higher stepping number signify better stability/overclockability, or is it just specific numbers that people are looking for that 'usually' have good results?

I really did consider running dual loops, but that would require me to purchase double the gear (well, almost), and I have a serious issue with running a single pump in a loop, and adding points of failure is just not my thing...

Just for comparison, what are your temps?

Sorry for the long post to follow...

I know this is an AB conversation tongue.gif but I'll chime in anyway since not much going on at the moment for me and I always like your posts
As far as stepping on Ivy-E is concerned the only issue I can come up with is that VT-d is apparently borked on c1 for Sandy-E... but that shouldn't apply to Ivy-E. I guess maybe the c2s are supposed to clock better.

For the dual loops thing--specifically, about needing 4 pumps to feel comfortable with 2 loops (extra 2 for backup)
I'm newer to watercooling than you are, but I'm also one of those people that tends to quickly gather trial/error info very quickly because if something *can* go wrong, I will manage to *make* it go wrong. I'm not stupid, but I'm no genius either. Slowly getting to my point--->I felt the same way about redundancy in a loop (2 pumps is what I started with on my single loop) until I tripped overtemperature protection several times due to forgetting to plug in my pumps' 12v. I didn't realize it at first and thought maybe my OC was unstable or something so it happened multiple times. It occured to me at that point that I had 3 failsafes and it was somewhat unnecessary. CPU/GPU will shut your system off from getting too hot if your pump fails. It will happen pretty fast, too. On top of that my Aquaero is set to shut the system down if flow stops, pump stops, fans stop, etc.
Fast forward a couple weeks and I actually damaged my spare pump by running it while dry. I've been running with just 1 pump since then. The spare was spliced into the loop separately from my main pump (main is in a Monsoon dual-bay d5 res). So the spare was without its own reservoir and I would only connect it after I had the loop full. Anyway, that works fine but you have to be careful and I did something dumb and that d5 started sounding like a rainstick.

Finally, about temps: I'm on a 4820k so not a completely fair comparison, but I also *was* using a Raystorm CPU block until this week; I switched to an EK monoblock for our R4BE boards and my temps are a little better along with my flow (not sure why the flowrate improved quite so much since the Raystorm was clean).
So this is with running Firestrike Extreme:

And this is Prime95 27.9:

I think your temps are a little high, but mine's only 4 cores so I could be wrong.
Edited by electro2u - 10/19/14 at 5:36am
post #10392 of 14918
Quote:
Originally Posted by reev3r View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I figured it was the stepping, I just wasn't certain, better to be sure, also, does a higher stepping number signify better stability/overclockability, or is it just specific numbers that people are looking for that 'usually' have good results?

I really did consider running dual loops, but that would require me to purchase double the gear (well, almost), and I have a serious issue with running a single pump in a loop, and adding points of failure is just not my thing...

As stated, the blocks are all the same, and the only things that did change are the tubing, and the 560mm rad, but I do not see either of those affecting it this much, especially with a dual pump top on the 35x pumps... As well, I actually pulled the blocks apart and cleaned them prior to finishing everything, and they do look great. Although, I did forget, I added a filter, and not only is it not clogged, but again, I do not see it causing a problem, however, this is my first 'real loop', other than my solder job back in ~2001, which used a freaking bilge pump and a bucket for a pump and reservoir... So my 'I don't see it' comments are me using my analytical and logical brain (and intuition) to try and rule some things out, but I am more than happy to be incorrect...

So, if anybody has experience, and suggestions to the contrary, I am all ears. :-)

On a more positive note, when under FULL load (CPU/both GPU's) the CPU will break 80°C quite easily, but under normal loads, heavy gaming, 3DMark, etc. etc. it doesn't break ~60°C... I should have clarified that, does that seem normal? I feel like people post better temps than that...

Just for comparison, what are your temps?
Without chiller 40c full load 420 / 360 rads with chiller no rads take another 8c - 10c off that full load
80c is somewhat acceptable if air cooling , not water . I have 3 pumps . Twin d5 for the cards and a single one for cpu
Edited by HOMECINEMA-PC - 10/19/14 at 6:57am
post #10393 of 14918
Well, I suspect that I will need to do some work to figure out what is wrong... I am confident that it is a flow issue somewhere, but pulling my loop apart is going to be a serious pain... Maybe later this week... :-(

Should a 560 really be causing this much of a problem?
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post #10394 of 14918
Quote:
Originally Posted by reev3r View Post

Should a 560 really be causing this much of a problem?

It sounds like you have air entrapment issues . .

With a lot of towel in hand, and power only to the pumps, start loosening one fitting at a time progressively thru the system starting just after the pump . . . . . at some point(s), you'll get a pause, and maybe an audible sound, before the water starts squirting out.

Each time you burp the air pocket out, you should see better coolant movement in the res.

I'd try that before tearing the whole thing down, as that's no guarantee that you won't get the same problem on re-assembly.


Darlene
post #10395 of 14918
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

It sounds like you have air entrapment issues . .

With a lot of towel in hand, and power only to the pumps, start loosening one fitting at a time progressively thru the system starting just after the pump . . . . . at some point(s), you'll get a pause, and maybe an audible sound, before the water starts squirting out.

Each time you burp the air pocket out, you should see better coolant movement in the res.

I'd try that before tearing the whole thing down, as that's no guarantee that you won't get the same problem on re-assembly.


Darlene

Ugh... Not even remotely excited about this. :-) I was somewhat thinking that it could be air, but I kind of shrugged it off, but after moving my rads around for the umpteenth time, shakow, more air in the res (of course right before reading this... Yay for suck!

Thanks for the tip.
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post #10396 of 14918
before you do that, shake your case with a fitting off on your res ( fill fitting ) and pumps running \
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post #10397 of 14918
I thi k that I really just need to change the location of my res... Come to think of it... I've no idea why this never occurred to me before, but my res is at the bottom of my case (though still above the pumps), so it would be difficult ult for air to flow downward to it... :-(

Oops. Just had to have my rads up top, didn't I...?
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post #10398 of 14918
Quote:
Originally Posted by reev3r View Post

I figured it was the stepping, I just wasn't certain, better to be sure, also, does a higher stepping number signify better stability/overclockability, or is it just specific numbers that people are looking for that 'usually' have good results?

I really did consider running dual loops, but that would require me to purchase double the gear (well, almost), and I have a serious issue with running a single pump in a loop, and adding points of failure is just not my thing...

As stated, the blocks are all the same, and the only things that did change are the tubing, and the 560mm rad, but I do not see either of those affecting it this much, especially with a dual pump top on the 35x pumps... As well, I actually pulled the blocks apart and cleaned them prior to finishing everything, and they do look great. Although, I did forget, I added a filter, and not only is it not clogged, but again, I do not see it causing a problem, however, this is my first 'real loop', other than my solder job back in ~2001, which used a freaking bilge pump and a bucket for a pump and reservoir... So my 'I don't see it' comments are me using my analytical and logical brain (and intuition) to try and rule some things out, but I am more than happy to be incorrect...

So, if anybody has experience, and suggestions to the contrary, I am all ears. :-)

On a more positive note, when under FULL load (CPU/both GPU's) the CPU will break 80°C quite easily, but under normal loads, heavy gaming, 3DMark, etc. etc. it doesn't break ~60°C... I should have clarified that, does that seem normal? I feel like people post better temps than that...

Just for comparison, what are your temps?

Same CPU as electro and my temps are within 1-2c of his. Only difference is I'm using a Koolance 380 with the grooves oriented vertically and 2 pmp-500s in series. Back when I was running a Q9650 I noticed a nice flow increase when I moved from 3/8 to 1/2 ID tubing. Iirc larger ID tubing is better for flow than smaller ID tubing because it is less restrictive itself, then you factor in that you have a half inch stream being forced into a water block is going to cool that block better than a 3/8 inch stream at the same speed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reev3r View Post

I thi k that I really just need to change the location of my res... Come to think of it... I've no idea why this never occurred to me before, but my res is at the bottom of my case (though still above the pumps), so it would be difficult ult for air to flow downward to it... :-(

Oops. Just had to have my rads up top, didn't I...?

My res is located about midway between the top and bottom with the rad fittings being above the lid of the res but the pumps below its base, one rad is completely above the res. Only the front 3 rads give me problems with trapped air because they're mounted vertically but even then I just have to heat the coolant up a bit and leave it warm for most of the air to cycle out. I also get pretty decent movement in the res, especially at higher liquid temps when it becomes less viscous.

Darlene, would that really impede flow? I know it would make sense when accounting for the worse temps, since some of the rad pipes are full of air and not really helping cool the liquid but I wouldn't think it would cut the flow that much. Especially since it sounds like reev has the rad in question mounted on the ceiling with the fitting ports facing down. Laying the case on its side and cycling the pumps should work or run the pumps while you dismount the problem rad and tilt it around to facilitate de-gassing.
    
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post #10399 of 14918
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpecTRe-X View Post

Back when I was running a Q9650 I noticed a nice flow increase when I moved from 3/8 to 1/2 ID tubing. Iirc larger ID tubing is better for flow than smaller ID tubing because it is less restrictive itself, then you factor in that you have a half inch stream being forced into a water block is going to cool that block better than a 3/8 inch stream at the same speed.

Flow is better because pressure is reduced. Pressure = friction, friction = slow.
post #10400 of 14918
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadaveca View Post

Flow is better because pressure is reduced. Pressure = friction, friction = slow.

Ya, that was it! It's been ages since I looked at a watercooling guide lol I couldn't recall the specifics.
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 4820K Asus Rampage IV Black Edition 3x GTX 470 G.Skill Ripjaws X series 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD Caviar Blue Hitachi 7k1000.C WD Caviar Black WD Caviar Green 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung super writemaster 2x PMP-500 4x BlackIce 360GTX rads 12x Koolance fan-12025HBK fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
3x Koolance Vid-NX470 blocks Koolance CPU-380i XSPC RivBE block set Win7 Home Premium 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung Syncmaster PX2370 Logitech G510 1x Silverstone ST-1500, 1x Enermax Revolution 1... Mountain Mods Extended Ascension 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
Logitech G9x Rocketfish dual side metal core Creative GigaWorks T40 series II 1x Lamptron FC-8 fan bus 
  hide details  
Reply
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Core i7 4820K Asus Rampage IV Black Edition 3x GTX 470 G.Skill Ripjaws X series 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
WD Caviar Blue Hitachi 7k1000.C WD Caviar Black WD Caviar Green 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung super writemaster 2x PMP-500 4x BlackIce 360GTX rads 12x Koolance fan-12025HBK fans 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
3x Koolance Vid-NX470 blocks Koolance CPU-380i XSPC RivBE block set Win7 Home Premium 64-bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung Syncmaster PX2370 Logitech G510 1x Silverstone ST-1500, 1x Enermax Revolution 1... Mountain Mods Extended Ascension 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
Logitech G9x Rocketfish dual side metal core Creative GigaWorks T40 series II 1x Lamptron FC-8 fan bus 
  hide details  
Reply
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