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[Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club! - Page 391

post #3901 of 14862

I don't remember how. I didn't order my block yet so haven't thought much about it beyond knowing that it can be done. I'm sure if you check out her Stretch Limo build log it'll show more detail

    
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4930k Rampage IV Black Edition w/EK Clean CSQ Block PowerColor 290x BF4 (2 More Coming) G Skill Trident X 
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Silverstone Slotload Bluray Burner EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Alphacool XT45 360 XSPC EX360 
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post #3902 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

When did the XSPC RIVBE blocks get released?
Is that brand new or did I just miss it? That looks soooooooooo much better than the EK blocks to me.

Now I wonder how long it's going to take for that to show up somewhere I can actually buy it? How much will it be?

Most of all, is it worth it to me to void my RIVBE warranty because i guess I'm assuming I'd have to cut the heatpipe to keep the I/O cover (not even going to consider running without it).

Hmmm?

post #3903 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by WCRF_1710 View Post

Image (Click to show)

Thanks for that! Rep! thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

I don't remember how. I didn't order my block yet so haven't thought much about it beyond knowing that it can be done. I'm sure if you check out her Stretch Limo build log it'll show more detail

Here is is. She heated it for 10 minutes with a torch to pull it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Hey guys,

I was able to successfully remove the I/O heatsink from the heatpipe from the mosfet block! thumb.gifthumb.gif


The idea I mentioned a while back with using quick heat and expanding the aluminum from the pipe and softening the thermal bonding agent worked a treat.

About 10 minutes heating the aluminum sink with a propane torch, and the thermal glue started to melt and became visible, and a couple more minutes and the pipe would rotate freely in the sink and slide out with a little twisting motion as I pulled.

The white powdery stuff is the thermal glue, it'll dust off once it's all cooled.

The heat left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink, so it's ready to reinstall when cool.



Darlene

Images (Click to show)







I could be wrong, but it looks like it's going to void the warranty to me, especially after I take a torch to it I have my doubts I'll be able to say it 'left no visible discolorations or blemishes on the heatsink'. I know my luck / history, and I'm all but certain I'd destroy the thing beyond recognition.
lachen.gif
Edited by Unicr0nhunter - 1/8/14 at 5:04am
post #3904 of 14862

Well you could always place a wanted ad on the marketplace for the stock heatpipe/heatsinks if warranty time ever comes. I'm sure there'll be a few people that don't cut or remove the pipe when they install the waterblocks. I'm probly gonna use her method myself and take my chances =P

 

Using a heatgun or reflow station instead of a torch might help with the burn marks

    
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4930k Rampage IV Black Edition w/EK Clean CSQ Block PowerColor 290x BF4 (2 More Coming) G Skill Trident X 
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 240 3 x Phobya NB E-Loops (1600RPM) Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition) 7 x Gentle Typhoon AP-00 (2150) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
3 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 6 x Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler (2 P... Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Meter Swiftech MCP35x 
CoolingOSPowerCase
XSPC Photon 170 Reservoir Windows 7 + Linux Antec HCP-1300 Platinum CoolerMaster HAF XB (Modded) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
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LC Telios Red/Black Fusion, White, & Gray More To Come... 
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4930k Rampage IV Black Edition w/EK Clean CSQ Block PowerColor 290x BF4 (2 More Coming) G Skill Trident X 
Optical DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Silverstone Slotload Bluray Burner EK Supremacy Clean CSQ Alphacool XT45 360 XSPC EX360 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Alphacool ST30 240 3 x Phobya NB E-Loops (1600RPM) Alphacool UT60 120 (White Edition) 7 x Gentle Typhoon AP-00 (2150) 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
3 x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 6 x Phobya G1/4 Inline Temp Sensor Coupler (2 P... Aquacomputer G1/4 High Flow Meter Swiftech MCP35x 
CoolingOSPowerCase
XSPC Photon 170 Reservoir Windows 7 + Linux Antec HCP-1300 Platinum CoolerMaster HAF XB (Modded) 
OtherOtherOtherOther
Silverstone FP58 Thermaltake Max 5 Duo Phobya 6 x 16mm Vandal Switch Plate  6 x 16mm Vandal Switches (ModSmart & Lamptron) 
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LC Telios Red/Black Fusion, White, & Gray More To Come... 
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post #3905 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

Well you could always place a wanted ad on the marketplace for the stock heatpipe/heatsinks if warranty time ever comes. I'm sure there'll be a few people that don't cut or remove the pipe when they install the waterblocks. I'm probly gonna use her method myself and take my chances =P

Using a heatgun or reflow station instead of a torch might help with the burn marks

Hmmm, the marketplace is a good idea. Rep!

I might try to see if I can get one beforehand. That would make me feel a whole lot better about cutting or torching the heatpipe out.
post #3906 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Yeah but iirc she heated it with a torch or some such so it expanded so the pipe could be pulled out. Sounds like it wouldn't just go back in place and be unnoticeable as far as the warranty goes (especially after I do anything to it with a torch it's probably going to look terrible. lol), and if that's the case I'm not sure what advantage doing all that has over just cutting the thing off instead.

I tried torching it, but the pipe still didn't make it. It's very weak and got damaged to the point where it broke off before that welding paste.
post #3907 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaBestiaHumana View Post

G.Skill Trident X 2400 CL9 seem to be popular. I'm using a kit myself. thumb.gif
Work with EK waterblock module?
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post #3908 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvelander View Post

Work with EK waterblock module?

I don't see why not? After you remove the stock heatsink, the modules should fit right into the EK monarch blocks.
post #3909 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by LaBestiaHumana View Post

I tried torching it, but the pipe still didn't make it. It's very weak and got damaged to the point where it broke off before that welding paste.

Hmmm, the very top of the board will be hidden behind my top rad, so I'm wondering if you think that the heatpipe might be able to be gently bent a little without breaking anything so that it might just sit up above the board out of view in the space behind the rad?
post #3910 of 14862
Quote:
Originally Posted by Unicr0nhunter View Post

Hmmm, the very top of the board will be hidden behind my top rad, so I'm wondering if you think that the heatpipe might be able to be gently bent a little without breaking anything so that it might just sit up above the board out of view in the space behind the rad?

Yes, you can do that too. The pipe is actually quite flexible.
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