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[Official] Asus Rampage IV Black Edition Owners Club! - Page 425

post #4241 of 14618

Hrmmm, i wonder if it would be a good idea to dbl fist my Wagner and 858D. Heating up both heatsinks should help it reach the needed temp alot quicker and stop the heatpipe from cooling it off at all. I think...

    
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post #4242 of 14618
Quote:
Originally Posted by kpoeticg View Post

Hrmmm, i wonder if it would be a good idea to dbl fist my Wagner and 858D. Heating up both heatsinks should help it reach the needed temp alot quicker and stop the heatpipe from cooling it off at all. I think...


Noooooo . . .

You're missing the science here.

Use both to heat the bigh heatsink and keep the little mosfet sink cool, maybe a big wet towel, to help keep the pipe cooler . . .

You're trying to have the big heatsink expand from being heated, so that the hole the heatpipe is in expands, (becomes larger in diameter) and releases it's grip on the heatpipe, as well as melting/softening the thermal bonding cement, so you can work the heatpipe back out of its hole.


D.
post #4243 of 14618

Derp :doh:

 

That's why i share my brilliant ideas with the class before i try them :D

    
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post #4244 of 14618
To sum up Dar's info: heat the black part, don't or avoid heating the metal shiny pipe. Do it right, the black thing expands and releases the shiny pipe from its death-grip tongue.gif
post #4245 of 14618
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Trust me, I did NOT forget the gloves.

I learned that lesson years ago bending PVC conduit, which is a lot less heat required than this was.
I learned my lesson when I tried to place a LED diode into molex in the wrong way just to see what happens. It was really hot afterward and didn't worked even after turning right way. I also learned the lesson don't touch these wires by naked fingers, they might be just 12 V, but they are 20 A. Fuse activated quickly enough, thus no burn marks.
post #4246 of 14618
Quote:
Originally Posted by skupples View Post

Just remember that memory cooling is by far the most aesthetic based thing you can do in your build. IT also is by far the most restrictive block you can install. So, if you are not planning to enter into the hardcore memory overclocking club, it may not be worth it... unless you just want it because it looks badass.
Obviously you don't know much about overclocking memory. I would say you're in the majority of users here that don't go past rated memory voltage. In that case, I agree. However, if you do overclock your memory, there's a vast difference between the heat that a rated 1.5 or 1.65v stick puts off at 1.85v. and cooling capability that ram waterblocks provide. There is a reason that the extreme memory profiles on this mobo exist, as well, as water cooling modules and LN2 pots for ram.
    
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post #4247 of 14618
RAM cooling for DDR3 is interesting from 1.7+ V. I personally use air cooling for my curent PC, and cool VRM, CPU, and RAM with one fan:

fS3bVjr.jpg

I personally went with LoVo route. When it will work, it will be fine, and it provides nice headroom. Personally I'd be more interested in high density LoVo chips with large heatsinks, than a water cooling. For 24/7 they peak at voltages and frequencies which doesn't need water cooling, and decent heatsink and a reasonable airflow might be enough. For peak speeds? Probably chiller, but that depends on how they like sub zero temperatures.
post #4248 of 14618
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raghar View Post

RAM cooling for DDR3 is interesting from 1.7+ V. I personally use air cooling for my curent PC, and cool VRM, CPU, and RAM with one fan:

fS3bVjr.jpg

I personally went with LoVo route. When it will work, it will be fine, and it provides nice headroom. Personally I'd be more interested in high density LoVo chips with large heatsinks, than a water cooling. For 24/7 they peak at voltages and frequencies which doesn't need water cooling, and decent heatsink and a reasonable airflow might be enough. For peak speeds? Probably chiller, but that depends on how they like sub zero temperatures.
I think fans are a great alternative to waterblocks for ram for "normal" benching. I've had no problems. Waterblocks do come in handy for a poormans chiller ( rad in a ice bucket) for short runs. I think a lot of people get caught up in epeen and bling factor. Most of these things are around because of overclocking necessity. Some people use gentle typhoons and some people use deltas! biggrin.gif
    
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post #4249 of 14618
Quote:
Originally Posted by hotrod717 View Post

I think fans are a great alternative to waterblocks for ram for "normal" benching. I've had no problems. Waterblocks do come in handy for a poormans chiller ( rad in a ice bucket) for short runs. I think a lot of people get caught up in epeen and bling factor. Most of these things are around because of overclocking necessity. Some people use gentle typhoons and some people use deltas! biggrin.gif
I can't say anything since I have mt ram watercooled originally for aestistics when I bought them after I put them in I pumped the volts to almost 1.7 and oc my ram. So I guess it worked out. To each his own though everyone has there own personal preference but what was another $100 on the blocks to the couple grand I had already forked out in cooling.
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post #4250 of 14618
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slinky PC View Post

Regarding cooling yours cpu, nothing even comes close to Cuplex Kryos XT .925 Silver Ed. It features 1911 silver pins, almost each one of them in unique geometry. But 1 again, you should know... I am just an artist not a technician wink.gif

Slinky Supercomputer, Front Panel
Slinky Supercomputer, Front Panel


Saw your beasty gpu setup on ebay. You planning for maxwell or just going w/ Hawaii? Sad to see that epic gpu setup go frown.gif
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