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Waterchiller - Connect with Quick release ? (Maybe Single Stage in Caselab)

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Hi

Got a nice Caselab S3 case with pedestal ...



Is the top will be my normal watercooling:

- CPU
- GFX Fullcover
- 2x Alphacool XT45
- D5
- Res

Do you think I can fit a waterchiller in the pedestal, and some how connect it to my system with quick release fittings ?

http://www.caselabs-store.com/mercury-s3-pedestal/

So if I want to bench a night, I can just turn on the waterchiller, and then use the system 24/7 with my normal watercooling ?

Is also thinking about a single stage to 24/7, but dont think you can fit one in the pedestal that is silent ?

- Hope you can see what I mean, never ever tried this sort of cooling before ...

Regards Fonne
post #2 of 5
Some things you aren't considering.........
Dew point (basically you'd have to "waterproof" your motherboard.)
Heat (a compressor generates a lot of it)
Noise (see point above)
Power (How's your electric bill?)
Sizing (How will you choose the correct size, in BTUs, for the cooler?)
Look into tropical fish tank coolers. There are threads
Cost (Grab your socks and kiss your axx good by!)

Other that that, sounds great!
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post #3 of 5
Thread Starter 
Dew point (basically you'd have to "waterproof" your motherboard.)

- You could mount a controller on the chiller, so its not going over XX temp, but still keeping it WAY lower than on just watercooling.

But have sent a mail to Piotres and asked him about prices, noise etc smile.gif ...
post #4 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fonne View Post

Dew point (basically you'd have to "waterproof" your motherboard.)

- You could mount a controller on the chiller, so its not going over XX temp, but still keeping it WAY lower than on just watercooling.

You're not thinking this through.

Since, by definition, at 100% humidity (ie. rainy wether) the dew point is the ambient temperature, your XX temp would have to be the highest temperature that it rains at where you live. If your house is air conditioned, you won't be able to use the computer when the AC is off and it's raining (or even if the humidity is above a certain point).

Yes, yes, you could incorporate a controller based on dew point sensing, but the hardware/software will cost you hundreds of dollars. And then since the only way to "throttle" a water cooler is to turn it on and off you will be greatly shortening the life of the compressor when it is running on a light load.

You you could use a TXV valve on the compressor, but again, if you can't design what you need it will be hundreds of dollars for parts and design.

The phase change guys have been there and done that. That's where you need to go to get the answers you need.
Edited by billbartuska - 11/21/13 at 4:38pm
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My System
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Samsung 840 PRO Asus DRW-1608P (x2) Custom Water Cooling Win7 (Ult), Win 8.1 & Win Server 2012 R2 
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2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
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post #5 of 5
Ok, so lets clear up a couple things.

1 - If you do not use a controller then yes you will need to "water proof" your board at least around the parts being cooled by the chiller.
2 - A controller can cost as low as $50- $60. You set it to turn the chiller on and off at a certain temperature which you set based on the dew point at that time. They usually will turn on after the temperature gets 3 degrees above the set point, then runs until it gets back to the set temperature. There are plenty of charts out there that combined with a thermometer that reads humidity allows you to easily adjust the temperature on the controller to avoid condensation and still be at or lower than ambient. If you live in a very humid area, such as Florida then you will be closer to ambient during the summer months and lower during the winter months.
3 - You can build a chiller out of a window AC unit fairly cheap, but it won't fit in the pedestal. If you want one that will fit in the pedestal you will need a custom one built which will cost quite a bit. Performance PCS sells some basic chillers also if you want something that you can just plug and go.
4 - If you use a window AC, you will need to use anti-freeze for the anti-corrosive since you will be mixing metals.
5 - Depending on the size of the reservoir, the unit will cycle every few minutes to every 15 or so minutes. They are usually pretty loud depending on if you can isolate all the rattling.
6 - Chillers produce hot air which is dumped into the room. A lot more than a regular water cooling setup.

Here is a build I did a few years back, cost me around $150 to build with the controller costing the most at $65. I still have it today and it still works, but I do not use it as often as I use to since I do not bench anymore.

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=307110

It was a great project and I did way more than you really need to do to make it work. One thing you can do when using a window AC is make it so it still mounts in the window so the hot air is dumped outside rather than in the room.
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Gaming Rig
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New Custom Case
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LG Bluray Burner Swiftech HD Koolance MVR-100 Koolance CHC-125 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
Swiftech MC35x2 with dual top Feser Triple 120 Radiator Corsair SP120 Quiet x 3 Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
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